|Paul Godfrey||20/09/2009 19:18:08|
163 forum posts
I've now completed as much of the electronics tray as I'm going to for now, all of the components (except for the receiver and steam engine sound module) have been fitted, and it just remains for these two items to be fitted, along with the wiring. These are the items used (minus the fan which has already been fitted as per the previous updates):
Not including the bags, the item top-left is the Power Distribution Board, below that is the Schottky Diode Board, and the Single Fuse Board. To the right of the P.D.B.are the three Single Relay Switches (one each for the two lighting circuits, and the other for the amplifier), and below these is the fan controller. Top right is the Multi Controller, beneath is the Audio Mixer/Booster, and finally the Steam Whistle/Horn unit.
The next photo shows the items fitted to the tray:
|Paul Godfrey||20/09/2009 20:09:08|
163 forum posts
The three switches are attached with double-sided tape to a plasticard strip, which is slid down between two channels into place. The three circuit boards are attached to a removable 'shelf', with other components below this attached with velcro. The fan controller is attached to the side opposite the smoker oil, also with velcro. The receiver will be attached to the inside of the front section, adjacent to the oil container, and there is ample space for the steam engine sound unit. The next photo shows the circuit board and switches removed:
With the shelf removed, access to the other components is easy. The amplifier is fitted to the lower rear section of the tray, with a cut-out allowing the heat-sink a good amount of clearance. Above this you will see that slots have been cut into the rear section of the tray. These allow the various wires to exit the tray, with connections being on the outside of the tray. A slotted strip has been made, and bonded across the deck opening near the servo, and this will hold the wires and connectors that join to the wires exiting the tray. So, when removal of the tray is required, the various wires (to the batteries, motors, speaker etc) can be disconnected, and the ends wont drop down into the hull - instead, they will remain in their correct positions allowing easy re-connection.
The next photo shows the oil cut-off valve positioned, but not yet bonded in place. As previously mentioned, I want to be able to open and close this without removing the superstructure, so have devised a mount made from plastic into which the valve has first been bonded. Two plasticard 'discs' have been made, and glued around the valve handle, and eventually a short length of square-section tube will be bonded into another disc which will then be glued onto the front of the handle. This tube will, as mentioned before, allow the handle to be turned by a long thin allen key, inserted through a hole in the superstructure side (a plastic tube will be fitted between the side of the tray and the valve, allowing the allen key to find the square-section tube easily). Does all that make sense?!! Here's a photo:
I have also now fitted a 'cage' around the batteries, which will prevent them from moving any further forward (I really cant see the need now to have them move any further forward for ballasting reasons), and will also stop them from moving left or right in the unlikely event that they are thrown off their 'rails'. The cage is made from lite ply, and strengthened with strip wood, giving a light yet strong structure. It has been attached to the baseboard with glue and screws, and there are two side supports for added strength:
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 20/09/2009 20:14:42
|Barry Foote||22/09/2009 08:20:16|
161 forum posts
Your installation is far too neat and tidy for us mere mortals!!!! A real credit to you. Those ACTion products really are top notch.
A cracking job so far.....keep it up.
|Paul Godfrey||22/09/2009 18:48:55|
163 forum posts
Many thanks, once again, for your comments Barry.
It all seems to be going ok at the moment, a major c**k-up MUST be on the cards soon!!
|Paul Godfrey||01/11/2009 14:54:40|
163 forum posts
A little more progress to report.
The following photo shows the main & forward decks now fitted, with the bulkheads in place either side of what will become the front gun mounting column.
Please note that both the front gun mount and the fiberglass superstructure moulding have not had any work done on them as yet.
The three printed plywood deck overlays have just been rested on the main deck at this stage, so that their outlines can be drawn around, and it will be to these lines that the deck plating will be fitted (ie the overlays will eventually be glued directly onto the plywood deck surface, and not onto the plating pieces).
The next pic shows the portholes fitted to the bow of the boat, which become inaccessable once the forward deck and bulkheads have been fitted. I therefore decided to paint the portholes in the eventual hull colour, fit the clear acetate behind (cut oversize & strengthened around the edges with P38) before fitting the deck. All I will need to do when painting the hull is to mask off the portholes.
The next two photos show the method adopted to mount the front end of the electronics tray.
And finally for this brief installment, the electronics tray in place. You can see a plasticard 'shelf' at the rear also, but unlike the front which has mounting holes, the rear just rests on wooden supports fitted either side.
50 forum posts
As Barry said, thats much to neat and tidy.
A really excellent job so far.
Glad to see the ACTion electrics, you wont find better.
|Paul Godfrey||27/11/2009 17:27:32|
163 forum posts
Many thanks Richard.
ACTion have been extremely helpful, and I wouldn't hesitate using them again for my next project.
More photos & an update to follow in a couple of weeks.
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 27/11/2009 17:28:05
|Paul Godfrey||05/12/2009 18:49:05|
163 forum posts
I've now completed the plating of the main deck. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the recommended method (as of course I was!), this involves cutting 'plates' from art paper, which is included in the kit, and using something like a blunted dart to press in rivet detail from (what will become) the underside of the plates. Each plate was marked with a line about 3mm from it's edges, and a mark made every 5mm along these lines for each rivet. The rivets were then punched in, and I estimate there are around 1500 of them! These plates are then stuck onto the deck with pva glue, and I must say look very realistic (Don't forget to click on the photos for a closer view).
Next on the agenda was the bulwark supports, and these proved somewhat tedious! Each one had to be made-to-measure from 0.8mm plywood, sealed with sanding sealer on one side first, then once dry, on the other side. After sanding with fine wet & dry, they were glued on with thick cyano.
I then made the decision to fit 'rivetted' plates either side of the bulwark supports, made from 3mm strips of art paper in the same way as the deck plating. I do not know whether this ship had these, but I've seen them on other ships of a similar age, and in any case, think they will look good, so that's good enough for me!! Each strip is 1 inch long, and as there are 46 bulwark supports, 92 are required - over 7 1/2 feet in total, with a rivet every 5mm!!
Unfortunately, the rivets dont show up particularly well on the following photos due to the camera flash.
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 05/12/2009 18:55:31
|Peter Fitness||05/12/2009 21:39:31|
510 forum posts
|Lovely work, Paul, those rivets are very realistic.
|Paul Godfrey||05/12/2009 22:45:56|
163 forum posts
Thanks very much Peter.
I'm pleased with how they've come out. Probably took around 10 hours of work to prepare and fit the deck 'plates', but certainly worth it!
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