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Sir Lancelot

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Bob Abell28/08/2009 07:55:32
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9337 forum posts
2985 photos
Considering this is only your second model, you are making an excellent job of it at every stage
 
Take your time, Paul...........You don`t want to finish it, in the cold weather!
 
Bob
Paul Godfrey28/08/2009 20:51:49
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163 forum posts
292 photos
Thanks for your comments Bob.
 
I'll time it's completion for the spring. . . . . . . .2012!!!
 
Paul
Paul Godfrey09/09/2009 21:23:23
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163 forum posts
292 photos
I do like to have good access to the components used in the build of any radio control model - there's nothing worse than having something fail that you can't get to without hacking things about to gain access. This very much applies, of course, to Sir Lancelot. Unlike my Dutch Courage, which has super access to all the 'gubbins', Sir Lancelot is at the other end of the scale, and this has caused a lot of head scratching!. I've already discussed the way that the batteries can be installed/removed, and the next thing to think about was the speaker. In the end, I built a box from liteply, angled at one end to allow the following installation:
 

This has been glued to the propshaft tube support seen in previous photos, and a new cross-beam seen just behind the oiling tube in the above photo. The screws which attach the speaker to the box are easily accessible, and removal (should it ever be needed) is straightforward after the rudder servo has been lifted out. The opening at the front end of the box allows the wires to be easily attached.
 
I have also now built the electronics 'tray' as mentioned in my last installment, and the next two photos show it in it's basic form:
 


Referring to the second photo, you can see that there are 4 sections seperated by the pencil lines. From left to right, the first allows clearance of the rear-most of the two 12v batteries; the second utilises the full depth available and will house, amongst other things, the smoke system (see next pics), the next section is raised to clear the motor (the two angled supports go either side of the motor), and finally the last section sits just above the propshaft couplings. As you can see, plenty of space for all the electronics - further internal dividers (like p.c. boards), possibly shelves, will eventually be incorporated to house the components, and these of course will all be removable.
 
Slots/holes will be made in the rear end of the tray, and it will be here that all of the connectors required to allow easy removal of the tray will reside. These are:
 
1) The rudder Servo lead,
2) The wires to the batteries,
3) The motor wires,
4) The speaker wires,
5) The two lighting circuits.
 
More of this at a later stage. Here's a photo of the tray resting in the deck opening:
 

It will, in due course, be attached to blocks bonded to the coamings (and yes, I have allowed for the thickness of the coamings when measuring the width of the tray!!), and will therefore be suspended just above the battery, motor & coupling.
 
Next is the smoker housing.
Paul Godfrey09/09/2009 21:43:16
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163 forum posts
292 photos
This photo shows the components of the smoker housing I have designed:
 

The unit second from the left is basically a box, with 4 short lengths of brass tube bonded to the base onto which the fan fits. The smoker element sits in a slot above, and of course, both items can be easily removed. On the left of the photo is the front door, which slides down channels on either side, with a hole for the smoke oil tube, and a cut-out at the bottom for the wiring. The tall unit in the middle sits on top of the fan housing, and eventually will be extended higher by plastic tube once the exact position of the funnel has been established. The oil container on the far right fits into the unit to the left of it, and this in turn slots into a housing built into the electronics tray, as can be seen in the final photo for this installment:
 

The lower fan/smoker element housing is attached by a single screw, and the upper extension is screwed to this. When changing the oil container, this and the fan/smoker housing can be removed together without disconnecting the oil pipe, making this task easier (and less messy).
 
You will also see a small green item in the photo of the individual components, this is the oil pipe shut-off valve, and what I want to avoid is to have to remove the superstructure just to open or close this valve.  I will therefore bond this valve to the vertical partition just below the oil container nozzle, at such an angle that by inserting a long allen key (or small square-section rod) through a small hole in the side of the superstructure, it will slide into a section of square-section brass tube which has been bonded to the valve 'handle'.
 
That's all for now. Not sure at this stage whether to continue fitting out the tray with all the gizmo's (I do have everything except the new steam sound unit which Mr Milbourn is currently designing - that's why my wiring diagram on Action's web site doesn't have this included!), or maybe fit the main deck. 
 
Paul.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 09/09/2009 21:53:59

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 09/09/2009 22:01:13

neil howard-pritchard09/09/2009 22:35:22
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2260 forum posts
2759 photos
any chance of you doing a drawing and plan of the unit, paul for publication...........it looks very interesting, not only for your vessel but for others as well.
neil.
Paul Godfrey10/09/2009 18:06:27
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163 forum posts
292 photos
Hi Neil,
 
Leave it with me - I'll break out the ruler & pencils!! I don't have a C.A.D. program unfortunately, so my drawings will have to do!
 
Regards, Paul.
Paul Godfrey10/09/2009 20:57:57
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163 forum posts
292 photos
As you will see, my drawings are not exactly top-notch, but I hope they show the smoker unit in adequate detail. I have not included measurements, as each boat will be different, but I first built the fan & smoker housing base using the fan dimensions as a guide. The height of the housing was governed by the smoker 'element' being sufficiently spaced above the fan to allow the fan to be lifted off its four corner mounts, should the need arise due to malfunction etc. The top of the housing is roughly level with the smoker element. The 'door' at the front can, as previously mentioned, be lifted up (after the angular 'chimney' has been detached from the housing), allowing access to both the fan & the smoker. The drawing shows the smoker support which is glued between the housing sides, and consists of a 'HH' shaped piece of plasticard (so shaped to allow a good flow of air from the fan), down the middle of which are glued two pieces of plasticard virtually side-by-side. The metal support strip of the smoker can then be squeezed between these two pieces of plasticard to hold it firmly in place.
 

The smoker, fan (and fan speed controller) were obtained from Action Electronics.

As with all the photos in this thread, click on them for a larger image - you'll need to with these sketches!!
 
Paul.
 
neil howard-pritchard10/09/2009 22:47:35
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2260 forum posts
2759 photos
thanks for those paul. they are a great help for when i come to build mine.
cheers, neil.
Dave Milbourn10/09/2009 23:44:54
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4025 forum posts
282 photos
Paul
You'll get a better sound from the speaker if you fully enclose the box at the back of it. The idea is to prevent the air being pushed from the underneath of the speaker from meeting the air being pushed from the top (hope that's clear enough!).
A tube around the front to duct the sound upwards and stop it spreading sideways (in simple terms) can also enhance the sound.
I like the box, and I want some piccies of the finished article and installation for our website Rogue's Gallery - that's if I ever get time to compile it!
Dave M
Paul Godfrey11/09/2009 18:57:23
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163 forum posts
292 photos
Neil,
 
You're very welcome. I forgot you have a Sir Lancelot to build (it's an age thing), so if you want measurements for anything I have done, you only have to ask. I have made a slight improvement to the oil bottle holder. In the photo of the individual smoker housing components, and the drawing, the oil bottle is slotted in to a plasticard 'cage' made up of a back, sides, and a smaller front piece, together with a bottom piece with a hole in it, into which the nozzle fits. Previously, this unit then slotted into another bracket attached to the side of the tray. Now though,  the bracket has been removed, and the cage has been itself glued to the side of the tray. To allow the bottle to be lifted out with the feed tube still attached, I have cut a vertical slot in the front of the cage, and a slot in the bottom where the nozzle fits into the hole. Here's a photo:
 

So, to remove the oil bottle and the smoker housing, I remove the chimney, then lift the smoker housing up at the same time as the oil bottle, directing the feed tube through the slots I've now cut.
 
Dave,
 
The speaker box I've made does have a back - the photo's flash has caused a shadow and perhaps given the impression it doesn't. The only opening is at the front end for the wires. The box is now well and truly glued into place, but there will be some more photos of hull interior once I've put in the electronics, prior to the deck being fitted. Thanks for the tip regarding the ducting tube - I'll make this addition in due course.
 
Cheers, Paul

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