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Sir Lancelot

Build Log

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Paul Godfrey08/06/2009 18:26:48
163 forum posts
292 photos
Just about ready to start the build of Mountfleet's Sir Lancelot. Progress will initially be quite slow due to other commitments & forthcomming holiday. Here's a photo of the as yet untouched hull on the newly built stand:

...and here's the contents of the first bag of white metal components to be used. Note: the propellor will be replaced by a nice shiny brass item!

Next stage: file, fill, & sand the hull, smooth the inner bulwarks, fit propshaft, rudder frame & rudder, and deck supports.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 08/06/2009 18:27:34

Barry Foote15/06/2009 07:59:15
161 forum posts
93 photos
She makes up into a great model. Original design was by the late Frank Hinchliffe, who started up Caldercraft Models..
Paul Godfrey02/08/2009 16:38:20
163 forum posts
292 photos
Two months gone, and some more pictures of progress to date. The first shows the hull with initial cleaning-up done, ports cut out, etc.

Here is a close-up of a deck support strip, showing cuts I made to make bending and curving it that much easier. Something I did on my Dutch Courage was to sand, fill, and sand smooth the inner bulwarks BEFORE fitting the deck support strips, and as this worked well, I've done it here also. It does make sanding the P38 easier, and it's then just a case of scoring the area to which the strip is glued. Note that the instructions said to mark the hull for the deck support strip 32mm from the top edge - this would have been some 7mm too low!!

The next shows the baseboard, made by measuring the available width at points along the bottom of the hull, to keep it as flat as possible. Note the 3/4 x 1/2 wooden bearer bonded to the centre line of the hull, to which the baseboard is attached, and also the long thinner section at the bow, onto which trays containing the batteries & lead weight can be lowered through the deck opening & slid forwards (as access to this area will be very limited once the deck is fitted).

Here's the motor & propshaft etc, including oiling tube.

 And lastly, the prop, rudder and tiller. Referring back to photo 2 in this thread showing the unfitted rudder, rather than just have the vertical rod pass through a section of captive brass tube as per the instructions, I first glued a thinner piece of brass tube over this rod, which in turn snuggly fits inside a larger diameter piece of tube bonded to the hull. For me, this just gives it somewhat more strength as I could imaging the rudder vertical rod bending/twisting.

 Look closely, and you can just see the two brass tubes in the next pic.

Next will be the rest of the deck supports, the keels, and the battery containers.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 02/08/2009 16:54:26

ashley needham02/08/2009 22:20:03
7593 forum posts
167 photos
Paul, thats a nice long torqy looking motor wot I dont recognise, what is it   and whats the spec, amps/voltage etc please, cheers  
Barry Foote03/08/2009 08:33:09
161 forum posts
93 photos
Ashley that motor is one of MMB's model 900
 High torque, low RPM 12 pole motor 
12 volt supply 
Approx. 3200 RPM on 12 volts 
Approx. 0.7 amps no load current. 
Approx. 1 to 2 amps under load (depending on prop size) 
Paul Godfrey03/08/2009 19:22:49
163 forum posts
292 photos
I'm glad you answered Ashley's question Barry, as I didn't know the specs!!
These are  Dave Milbourn's (who designed my wiring diagram for me) comments regarding this recommended motor:
The motor shown is around £30 and is absolutely ideal for this model and prop BUT it is too fast on 12v. Fortunately our P93 Multicontroller can be set to give 50% (i.e. like 6v) output from a 12v input – you just set a couple of switches in the unit to a given position and away you go.
Barry Foote04/08/2009 07:34:37
161 forum posts
93 photos
Dave must be supplying MMB's motors....Not surprising really. As for the rest of dave's gear, it really is excellent and you couldn't meet a friendlier and more helpful chap. Mind you watch out for his sense of humour!!!!! 
Paul Godfrey23/08/2009 17:21:55
163 forum posts
292 photos
A little more progress made. Here's the hull as it is now:

The remainder of the main deck supports have now been fitted, together with various strengthening pieces, as shown below.

The central cross-beam just above the motor was cut out only when the whole support structure for the main deck had thoroughly dried. The next photo shows one of the bilge keels, which I decided to make from plasticard rather than ply. I did not like the idea of a piece of wood, constantly in the water, and only held on by a few pins and a thin strip of wood above and below the joint to the hull. I instead made the keel with five 'tongues' which fit inside five slots made in the hull, and once the expoxy had dried, packed the tongues all around with P38 filler.

 The keel 'tongues' can be seen in the next photo, along with the two battery boxes made from plasticard. As mentioned earlier in this log, the boxes can be slid along on 'rails' to get them under the main deck, and to allow easy removal. How far forward they are allowed to slide will be determined by the eventual ballasting of the boat.

 And finally for this installment, the rudder servo and linkage.

My next task will be to construct a plasticard 'tray' for all the electronics, which will fit in the deck opening, beneath the superstructure. This tray will utilise as much space as possible (width, length & depth), and apart from the electronics, will also house the smoke generator. It will be easily removable for access to the batteries, motor etc. All will become clearer - watch this space!
Barry Foote24/08/2009 08:37:15
161 forum posts
93 photos
Coming along very nicely......I am enjoying this thread..
Paul Godfrey24/08/2009 19:19:21
163 forum posts
292 photos
Thanks Barry, appreciate your comments, and I'm glad you're enjoying it.
I'm trying to describe what I do in as much detail as possible, especially any problems I encounter (due either to my inexperience, or the kit itself), and the solutions I come up with. This way, other beginners, or people thinking of building this kit, can get an insight into what's involved.
Hope you're a patient man, Barry, as this build may take some time!
Regards, Paul.

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