Identifying my new boat...?
|M Harvey||01/05/2021 07:46:02|
|21 forum posts|
That image of the shell expansion is fascinating.
Having done a little more cleaning yesterday, I think the metal plates are a silvery metal. It is thin and quite malleable, albeit I dcannot say what it is off the top of my head... here are some more pictures to help.
|M Harvey||01/05/2021 08:00:47|
|21 forum posts|
I've managed to get the majority of the filler off and I'm now asking myself, do I carry on and remove all the black paint?
It certainly would look amazing in the metallic finish, but I'm assuming it would never be water tight?
|ashley needham||01/05/2021 08:24:39|
7218 forum posts
Fabulous detail on those hull plates I must say!
Personally I would use paint stripper and remove the black paint, as it will inevitably be masking corrosion.
A light wire-wooling of the rusty bits (but not removing tin plating if it was tin plate) afterwards followed by red oxide paint should preserve the hull for eons.
If not longer..
|Ray Wood 2||01/05/2021 09:06:57|
2418 forum posts
That riveting is marvellous and must have taken forever ? I think it maybe its galvanised/plated steel sheet with brass rivets, I don't think tin plate would have stood up to all the hammering etc. Model engineers used plated steel in the 1940's & 50's as I imagine brass sheet was hard to come by ?
Polyester resin sloshed about inside the hull a couple of times should cure your leaks.
|Malcolm Frary||02/05/2021 10:00:50|
|1010 forum posts|
I remember tin plate being discussed widely as a boat building material from '50's magazines. Most preserved food came in the source material back then, and for larger sheets, so did motor oil. A quick way to check is a magnet - if it sticks, there is steel in there. If not, and the metal is "silvery", aluminium or one of its alloys. Old Litho plate? It used to be a fairly common modelling material back when printing was printing involving metal and etching rather than ink being squirted in a pattern direct to paper.
But if there is any rust, there must be steel involved.
As Ray suggests, resin sloshed around the inside. I would just add that adding sticky tape to the outside first will stop any leaking resin from marring the outside and creating the work of removing it.
|M Harvey||02/05/2021 14:07:19|
|21 forum posts|
I can report back that the metal hull is not at all magnetic... so what does that indicate?
|Ray Wood 2||02/05/2021 18:52:14|
2418 forum posts
Looks like corrosion won't be an issue you have got yourself an aluminium hull should last forever.
|Malcolm Frary||03/05/2021 08:19:05|
|1010 forum posts||
As said earlier, aluminium or nickel silver. Litho plate was fairly available back in the day and was an aluminium alloy. Any sight of printed image on unpainted surfaces would give the game away.
Aluminium needs its own special soldering techniques, nickel silver, being white brass, responds well to more basic soldering.
|Keith Long||03/05/2021 10:33:22|
|70 forum posts|
I wonder if zinc sheet might be another possibility especially if the original builder had any connection with the roofing or building trades?
|Dave Cooper 6||03/05/2021 15:24:57|
|290 forum posts|
A few further thoughts :
1. Aluminium does corrode, although it is different from 'ferrous' metal corrosion. My experience is based on Fleet Air Arm aircraft operating in salt water environments and on racing cars of the 60's and 70's era with aluminium monocoques (similar to a metal boat hull actually).
2. The corrosion is a sort of white-ish /grey appearance. In the navy, we used "yellow chromate" to treat and protect. Best to watch out for dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic) too. You can use "Di-chromate Paste" to form a good separating layer. An application here would be a steel fitting passing through an aluminium plate for instance.
3. For a patch panel repair, have a look at "Lumiweld". It is rather like 'low-tech brazing' and has had very good reviews (although I've yet to use it....). If you Google the name, the UK supplier should come up and they do a hobby-style kit with instructions.
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