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TYNE Class Lifeboat build

step by step build of a semi kit lifeboat the RNLB WILLIAM STREET of Fleetwood

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neil howard-pritchard24/05/2020 18:36:42
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the two sailing lifeboats are now history with respect to a build thread, and so it is on to the next project.

not one to hang about I will have a tidy up of my workshop and put away lots of little things that might come in handy for another build, and then once I have working space on my benches I will crash on with the next build.

as I have said before it is going to be the Tyne Class 47-038 William Street, Fleetwoods just recently retired boat.

I had a little play with it for a few minutes on the aft bulkhead of the main cabin, as it wasn't fitting right in the condition that I bought it. the bottom had no camber to follow the deck and it was slightly too wide at the top, forcing the bottom sides of the cabin out and distorting the shape of the rear of the cabin.....so all was trimmed and it now "fits" where it was marked to go.

however......I have a set of Dave Metcalfs plans blown to size from model boats...….but I also have a full set of RNLI OFFICIAL drawings on 4 sheets.

and here is the perplexing thing about this all. Dave's and one sheet of the RNLI plans show one shape of the rear of the bulkhead...…..and the other two sets show two totally different side profiles as to how the rear bulkhead should be...…..

and so, now realising that this build is NOT going to be straight forward, I am now going to wade through all of the photos of the different rear bulkheads and see which one is suitable to the WILL STREET.

Nothing is ever straight forward in life but that is half the fun, isn't it?

But on the plus side there is acres of space in the hull for some nice toys like an engine sound generator and stuff.

 

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Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 24/05/2020 18:40:55

Bob Abell25/05/2020 07:45:07
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Hi Neil

It's looking a bit manky at the moment?

But we've got every faith in your building skills to produce another Masterpiece?

Looking forward to the build

Bob

neil howard-pritchard25/05/2020 15:11:56
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aye Bob...…..its a bit rough in places, and a good bit to do to restore order, but I love a challenge as much as a scratch build....……...

and gladly not too much was done by the original butcher who did the work to it before the person I bought it off gained possession of it,lol.

hopefully it will shine once I get going...….

just ordered my epoxy glues off ebay………….one of them is a 2 part epoxy that I used many years ago before it ran out and couldn't get anymore called Devcon……I saw a company selling it on ebay last night, so ordered a pack.

….it beats ZAP Z-Poxy hands down for sticking power,...… it is super tough.....….so am waiting for that and a pack of Z-Poxy 30 minute setting to come and then I can start to regenerate the model.

it came with almost a full fittings set, and prop shafts/ A frames but I will need some "Prop Shop" Scimitar type 4 blade 50mm props to drive her, plus 2 rudders which I will make from 3 layers of plasticard and brass rod...……...more to come on this build when I get going.

neil howard-pritchard26/05/2020 00:57:54
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I suppose i'd better crack on...

so started on the twin rudders this evening......thought i'd earned a little modelling time after spending the afternoon clearing crap and tidying some areas of my workshop...…….more to do tomorrow.

but tonight, as I always do with my scratch build boats is to use some 4mm brass rod that fits into thick walled 4.5mm inner bore plasticard tube nicely with some Vaseline impregnated with carbon powder to give a perfectly water resistant seal[ I also use this method for packing my prop tubes and shafts.

I then bend the end of each rudder shaft to about 30 degrees, and mark out the area of the rudder that this shaped rod will fit into...….the bend stops the rudder blade from working loose inside the rudder and becoming inoperable and useless. it is set into the slot cut into the rudder blade with epoxy, and then two pieces of plasticard cut to the same shape as the rudder blade are glued either side of the blade, enclosing the shaft.

 

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Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 26/05/2020 01:01:31

Bob Abell26/05/2020 06:49:03
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How big is this model, Neil and what motors?

Bob

neil howard-pritchard26/05/2020 20:03:26
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Posted by Bob Abell on 26/05/2020 06:49:03:

How big is this model, Neil and what motors?

Bob

its 47 inches long Bob. ..AS for motors, someone has suggested NOT TO engage in a brushless set up but rather go for 2 Torpedo 800's...[I think he said 800's and not 850's...……….but what ever, the faster revving motors…..I am tending to agree, as I don't understand much about brushless set ups...….hence I haven't got my Shannon on the water yet...……...get puzzled with more than two wires to and from electrical goods, lol.

as for the build.……….that carries on with part 2

Part two of the rudder construction...

drill and cut out the slot in the centre slice of the rudder and make sure the two sides are not forced out by the brass rod.

glue on to the centre section one of the outer slices.

using 30 minute 2 part epoxy glue into the slot, the brass rod.

once set, remove any residue sticking up from the slot and rod with a knife and abrasive paper.

finally for this part of the build, glue on the other outside slice, giving two rough but complete rudders that wont ever work loose on the stock, and waggle in the wind.

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Colin Bishop26/05/2020 20:07:38
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I used to like Devcon too and had no problems getting hold of it but I got a bit disillusioned when I found that they were now only filling the tubes 50% full. Not impressed with that!

Z Poxy 15 minute seems a decent substitute to me.

Colin

neil howard-pritchard26/05/2020 22:54:10
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I use Z-Poxy all the time Colin, but just saw the Devcon whilst searching last night, and as it's 4.25 oz in each tube as opposed to 4oz in z-poxy for virtually the same price, I would try it again.

see what its like on the shafts and rudder tubes when it comes...……..

which brings me to Rudders, part 3 lol.

 

Part 3 of my rudder construction for the Tyne.

I like to make my models as maintenance free as possible.

and so, after sanding and trimming the rudders to shape and cleaning them up. I thought I would use my normal method and take some thick walled plastic tubing from plastikard, Matlock for the rudder tubes.

tough, strong and perfect for threading some brass rod through...…...no reaction between plastic and brass, self lubricating and normally the brass would just fit, with very fine tolerances...……..

ahh, there came the problem. I had run out of my old internal diameter plastic tube for the brass rod of the rudder shaft...……….and the plastic tube I had was of a bigger diameter.

not to worry, I found some brass tube with internal diameter perfect for rudder shaft to fit in, but just too large outside diameter for the brass to fit into the plastic tube.

found a drill bit the same dia. as he brass tube outside, found my larger mandrel and reamed out about 10mm of the plastic tube to take some small lengths of the brass tube to act as bearings.

took the bits and pieces to the workshop, and using my small engineers vice as a bearing press, inserted the "bearings" into the plastic tubes...voila' Two bearing tubes to take the rudder shafts!...…..scratch building brings out all sorts of creative thoughts.

 

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Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 26/05/2020 22:57:45

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 26/05/2020 22:58:11

Bob Abell27/05/2020 07:00:50
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Blimey Charlie, Neil, what a story!

Your Talle of Two Rudders, make the Tale of Two Cities look like a brief Encounter!

Boom! Boom!

It's the way I tell'em

Bob

ashley needham27/05/2020 08:17:07
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6475 forum posts
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The two 800s on my 48 inch Fantome propel it ok, enough for lifeboat speeds. 850s are the higher revving ones 10000 verses 5000 rpm.

My Invincible aircraft carrier goes very well on a pair of 800s (as Colin has seen) on x50 props, and is a bit heavy with it. In fact, they were partly chosen for their weight as obviously I needed a degree of weight in the boat.

Some detractors would say that’s all they are good fo, but ignore them....

Ashley

Edited By ashley needham on 27/05/2020 08:18:44

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