OSA 1 Missile Boat

Thanks

Ray, the angle is quite shallow, I can have a look at that. I was trying to avoid the problem I have just had with my S100 conversion. The tubes are long on that which gave me problems with noise at high revs especially with the outer motors , originally 380's, the central brushless wasn't so bad; after a change in flexible coupling.

Tim

Not much progress lately as been waiting for the propshaft and P bracket from Model Boat Bits. Arrived this morning, Steve told me he taking a little longer to keep up with orders at present. But I can now fit the shaft and bracket, then start the hull sides etc.

I managed to order two P brackets so I will just have to find another boat to build to use it! The lockdown must be getting to me as I managed to order two sets of figures for the OSA the other day. Airfix British Infantry Afghanistan 1/48 scale!

Tim

Tim. That's a thought... the multi-pose 1/48 Airfix figures, and hard styrene will carve, glue and fill well.

Ashley

Well the crew has arrived. Unfortunately the accommodation isn't ready as the superstructure has developed major twists in the lite ply. Will have to scrap and start again.

Tim

Just been using lite ply on the Swordfish. Ghastly stuff really. It has its uses as long as it includes being able to brace it well..

Ashley

AND it has a really strong grain which takes some major filling work.

Amateurs all.......

DM

Yes, definitely amateur. 

It's 2mm lite ply that has warped as I waited to use it.

The superstructure is a narrow box 45mms wide and about 350 mms long. The bracing didn't keep it square. I have some 1/16th ply so will use that for the sides and front.

Tim

Edited By Tim Cooper on 07/05/2020 09:34:59

Edited By Tim Cooper on 07/05/2020 09:35:41

Tim

A long, thin box structure isn't a good application for 2mm liteply. It would probably twist even if built from birch ply. I use it for sheeting where the area is supported all round by a framework e.g. the sides and bottom skins of a hull, interior cockpit sides. Store it laid flat in a dry place and sand it smooth all over before you use it. That will reap benefits when it comes to finishing it. You'll find that good-quality liteply has one side which is noticeably smoother than the other, too.

Ashley

It's not a pain; it's just a different technique. Apply a thin coat of fine-surface Polyfilla or similar all over the ply; allow it to dry then sand it off with 320 paper. It will magically have filled all the grain. Dust off thoroughly before finishing. I'll conceed that birch ply is easier if you just want to prime and paint the bare wood; liteply really requires some sort of covering medium e.g. tissue or glass-cloth. If it really was that "ghastly" then I wouldn't use the stuff; I can get birch ply from the same source for the same price....

Dave M

DM. I don’t normally use the stuff. I used it for the Toyboata (big box, not fussed about the finish) just to see what it was like, the sides of the Cobb, as I thought it might be a bit lighter than 1.5mm ply I would normally use, and Swordfish....as I had some left!

Filling before using is a good idea if that is what you meant, and one that only a professional would think of 🏅and I will think on that if I ever use the stuff again which is unlikely.

Other materials I use already have a superior glossy, hard finish one side

Ashley

Dave

The 2mm was bought for the hull sheeting but the original used 1/16 balsa, so thought I would try the lite ply. It has been stored flat in the house but has still warped.

I will have to try the birch ply or 3 mm lite ply.

Tim