A 1/16 Fairey Huntsman 31 from the Dave Milbourn set of plans
1142 forum posts
Warmest thanks for all your kind words of encouragement – I can but try my cunningest plannest, eh wot wot ...
Apologies, too, for slowness of reply – I've been pretty busy these last two days with setting up a new computer.
I'm afraid I've learned the hard way not to combine these two pastimes, as my patience (already in short supply under the best of circs) tends to go out where the Ardbeg goes in. Just as these days I prefer not to drink (very much) beer during a gig, as opposed to what was often the case in my well-spent youth ...
Hmm ... Boom, Boom?!
I never really went away, but I will admit to mainly lurking for a goodish while, now.
And I, too, very much love 'Allo, 'Allo, not least because the original BBC drama series of which it was a spoof, Secret Army, was a huge hit on Swedish television where it was broadcast during the summers of 1981–1983, i.e. when I was in my teens, and I still have very vivid memories of the whole family gathering of an evening to catch the latest episode. The original was not set in France, though, but in Brussels and Belgium, but I dare say that the comedy makers' box of cliches was rather more well filled when it came to poking fun at the French than at the Belgians ... ?!
That said, my "cunning plan" refrence was rather intended to call up Baldrick of Blackadder fame ...
No, no – those are jigs for making hot air balloons, dontcherknow!
That is a beautiful clock! A very impressive build, and the plaque is a really nice touch!
Mine is more of a family heirloom, although not at all in the "valuable antique" sense of the term. It is one of those mass-produced eight day clocks from around the turn of the previous century, in Sweden often called America Clocks, because (a) many were made over there, and (b) they were not uncommonly sent as gifts to remaining family by sufficiently successful Swedish immigrants to the US. They are very common, and in monetary terms more or less worthless.
However, when it comes to sentimental value, it is a different story.
In rough numbers, about a million Swedes emigrated to the US between 1850 and 1920, at a time when the country had a population of between three and four millions. My paternal grandfather, whio was a Master Blacksmith, was one of those emigrants (as was his sister), and he spent the years circa 1895–1905 in Chicago. He then came back to Sweden to help take care of things at the death of his father, and, what with one thing and another, never went back. However, it was only in 1927, two years after my uncle was born, that he finally disposed of the plot of land he'd up until then had had in Chicago and where he'd intended to build a house. He died in 1954, so alas, I never knew him.
In any case, whether it came with him from America, or was acquired some other way, the clock initially belonged to my great grandmother. After her death, it came to my paternal grand parents, where it remained until my grandmother died in 1968. It then went to to my father, but as in 1968 he already had two young children, one of whom was I, with two more arriving in the next few years, my parents wisely decided not to hang it in the house. Instead it sat, unwound, on the wall in what, when the apartment block was built, was intended to be the maid's bedroom, but which my father used as a sort of box room to store his paintings and painting paraphernalia.
Then, around the time that the above photo of me was taken, i.e. around 1986 or 1987, I asked myfather if he wouyld min if I were to hang the clock in my room, and set it going again? He of course said "no worries", so I put up a hook, and hung it on the wall of my room (I was still living with my parents at the time), roughly three feet from where I'd put my head on the pillow of a night! For the first three weeks, I had to hang a dressing gown over it at night, to stop the chimes from waking me up, but after that I'd gotten used to the sound of the ticking and the chimes, and to this day, I hardly ever hear it. In any case, I have kept it running ever since, and so far it has just kept ticking along. I dare say I should have it cleaned and serviced one of these days, but as long as it keeps going, I'm sort of disinclined to bother it with too much TLC. It slows down a bit towards the end of the week (I usually wind it on Sundays), and then speeds ahead when newly wound, so while not accurate to anything within 10 minutes or, it is more or less right on average, and good enough for an o'clockish approximation of the time ...
To be continued ...
1142 forum posts
Anyway, delightful asides aside, today I took delivery of a nice, hefty parcel from Slec, with a goodish bundle of ply, liteply and some block balsa wood ...
I hope it goes without saying that it is not all intended for this build – it's just that I though I might as well replenish my stock of of these materials while I was at it.
I already have most of the drive train, in the form of a brushless motor with corresponding ESC, a motor mount, a bronze propeller from Protean Designs, a propshaft and an SHG flexible coupling, all of which I bought at the IMBS back in November 2017 ...
Before I actually start doing all that much in the way of building, I shall want to complete this with some LiPo:s, a r/x for my radio and a steering servo and rudder linkage. I will also need to check my stock of silicon wire, Dean type connectors, and other such stuff, although I think I'm good to go for most of those.
And if I'm going to use LiPo:s, I should probably get one of those low voltage alarms as well?!
Oh, and some glass fibre cloth and Z-Poxy resin, too!
So, still some thinking and buying to be done. A lucky thing that all this sort of stuff can be easily ordered online! Usually, I would get most of this kind opf stuff over the counter at one of several very well stocked model emporia within half an hour's drive from home, but right now, not so much opf that. So online I will go
To be continued ...
Edited By Banjoman on 10/04/2020 16:45:11
Edited By Banjoman on 10/04/2020 16:46:22
Edited By Banjoman on 10/04/2020 16:47:05
1142 forum posts
At this stage of my pre-build collection of bits and bobs, I would very much like to ask for a spot of advice on a couple of LiPo-related matters, before I send an order off to Component-Shop.
As already mentioned, I picked up a motor (Leopard LC2826 1150 Kv) and corresponding ESC (Leopard Marine V3 30A) back in the autumn of 2017, specifically with this build in mind.
Based on Dave Milbourns article in MB (January and february 2016), I am now planning to add the following:
My first question is thus if anyone has any comments on or suggestions for improving on this list?
As this is my very first brush (ha!) with brushless and even more the first time I even consider using a LiPo battery, I will admit to being slightly apprehensive, given all the dire warnings surrounding said LiPo:s. It is not so much that I fear being unable to understand how to handle them, but more that it seems that they are more likely to suffer from neglect, and should be charged/discharged/balanced about once a month?!
Now, I know from my experience with Pb and NiMh batteries that I'm not all that great when it comes to remembering to give them their TLC sessions, but with those chemistries at least the worst that'll happen is that they become tired enough of life that I lose my investment, and have to buy a new one.
The thing is that what with all my other hobbies and interests and work and life in general, I don't tend to get to the pond all that often, even during the season, so am unlikely to be reminded about cycling batteries through frequency of actual use.
My second question is thus how sensitive you have found LiPo:s to be to neglect? Will they just cease working properly if I forget to cycle them every month or so? Or will they become dangerous, either to continue to store or (even more so) to use again?
Finally, as far as I can figure out, my current charger (a SkyRC e6650) should be fully capable of handling all the necessary charging/discharging/balancing of the kind of LiPo pack mentioned above.
My third question is thus whether I'm right in thinking that I don't need to get another charger?
Warmest thanks in advance
|Tim Rowe||13/04/2020 11:23:29|
394 forum posts
In reverse order.
Your battery charger is fine. I have the same one myself and find it great for all the battery chemistries and easy to use.
I have some electric model aircraft and the batteries get little use or treat due to lack of time and opportunity. Recently I tested some and found they worked OK. I would anticipate some loss of capacity and I would be cautious about using them in a high value model or a precious one. I wouldn't have the same concern in a boat. And no, so far none of them have exploded!
Following because I really like your work and I am a Fairey Fan. Born and bred on the Hamble River.
|Ray Wood 2||13/04/2020 11:39:14|
1849 forum posts
I would back up Tim's comments about lipos they need respect, but I've been flying with them for about 10 years, my observation is leave them charged, and keep an eye on the cells venting the plastic casing starts to inflate slightly, they are still usable. I use the 11.1 volts 3 cell 2200mh, they don't have a long life compared to a nicad packs in my experience.
My cheap and cheerful balanced charger has a separate light for each cell and you can see if one of them has failed which is useful 😀
1142 forum posts
Many thanks for your very helpful reply!
I was not least very interested to read what you had to say about charge bags and their (lack of) effectiveness. I have also cast a beady eye on the Robbe RO-Safety LiPo Vault charging and storage box (**LINK**). As it is rather more expensive, it might, best case, also be more effective! Or, it might just be more effective at taking one's money from one?!
Do you or does anyone else have any thoughts on that?
I'm also glad to hear you say that LiPo:s should be able to survive at least normal levels of neglect – that is at least a small weight off my mind
Again, warmest thanks!
Edited By Banjoman on 13/04/2020 11:42:39
1142 forum posts
Thank you, too, for those reassuring words
|Dave Milbourn||13/04/2020 11:44:59|
3968 forum posts
That LiPo pack looks to be just the ticket. I think it’s the same type and size that I used in the prototype Huntsman.
The V3 Marine ESC you’ve bought has an automatic voltage cut-off which you can program if required. I left mine at the default value which is 3.2v/cell. That being the case I don’t use an inline voltage alarm with this type of ESC although I do have a separate voltage tester. Battery Status Checker
The programming card isn’t vital but I bought one and find it much easier to use than relying on bleeps and flashes as you fiddle about with the throttle stick.
The ESC has a small switch which turns the receiver on and off. I leave the LiPo disconnected until it comes to the point of sailing, at which time I plug it in and use the switch to activate the radio - after turning on the Tx, of course! I don’t think the P106 has been produced for a long time, although I have several and use them with my other choice of brushless ESC [Fusion Hawk]. If you decide that you really want one then let me know and I'll see what's in the magic toy-box.
I’m also a bit of a lazy beggar and I don’t have a routine for maintaining my LiPo packs. To be honest none of them has been recharged since its last use, which was last year! I do store them in the fireproof bag and they all seem to maintain their nominal voltage. Maybe I'll check them again later today....
The charger is specifically designed for several different Lithium battery chemistries SkyRC Charger and so you don't need a different type
Hope that answers your questions.
1142 forum posts
Yes indeed – that, together with the postings from Tim and Ray, very much answers my questions!
As for the P106, I note, now, that it is indeed out of stock at the Component-Shop, and of course your suggestion of not bothering with a switch but just plugging in and unplugging at the pond side will work just as well. In other words, many kind thanks for you offer to look through the toy-box, but there's really no need.
So! A-shopping I will go!
1142 forum posts
I quite forgot to say about the in-line voltage alarm that I was indeed aware from reading the ESC instructions sheet that there already is a cut-off included, but my thinking was that an added alarm, set at a slightly higher threshold, coukld be helpful if set to sound a warning before the actual cut-off threshold was reached?
Or am I being too belt-and-braces here? Said instructions for the ESC to seem to say that cut-off doesn't mean that it stops dead, mid-pond, but rather that powert is reduced but with sufficient time to bring the boat back to shore?!
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