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A Tug of two halfs

My scratch build of James P. Woods

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Roger Clark12/04/2019 13:24:11
250 forum posts
88 photos

Hi Eddie,

Where are you going to ballast to? The current waterline looks way too low for a tug but I don't know if it can be raised to just below the bulwark in the lowest place without compromising the water tightness of it?



Eddie Lancaster12/04/2019 18:10:00
846 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Roger, I was going to ballast to the shown water line, it is I" below the deck line and then there is another 1 1/4" of rail above that with the capping on top it should be water tight at deck level with the main rubbing rail supporting the base of the rail, if we ballast to the shown water line then more ballast can be added later, if there is space, to bring it lower in the water.

Looking at videos of tugs they look very low in the water around the midships

In one of your earlier posts you asked about gorilla glue, I have never used it, I have always used aliphtic resin glue as recommended by others on this site.

I have just picked up my May copy of MB and see that 40mm stanchions are recommended I thought they might be too high but as I have some in stock I will try them to see how they look.



Eddie Lancaster14/04/2019 21:26:18
846 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Roger, how is your build going? I have been trying to finish the steering gear but have run in to problems with the run of the control wires, there is not enough room for the 1/6" brass wire to follow the arc of the control horn.


Even after cutting some horrible holes through the deck, I then went to ss rigging wire but I am still not happy with this arrangement.


The holes have been tidied up with 1/32" ply pieces.

I have now sketched out a plan similar to that suggested by Ray, using quadrants and pulleys to guide the wire or chain around the hull, but have to decide if I take the wire/chain to the outside of the hull as the SS Master, a 1920s american steam tug, or to keep it inboard.

I will keep you posted.



Roger Clark14/04/2019 22:26:08
250 forum posts
88 photos

Hi Eddie, I've now released the halves from the board and am doing initial rubbing down and filling (hiding all my cockups laugh). The build is far from perfect and even though it's my first build I have to admit to being a mite disappointed as to how it's going but that's not to say I'm disillusioned, I will continue and make good as I move forward and no doubt will get better as time goes on.

I will go with Rays' setup but think I will keep the mechanism inboard, being the easier route. I measured the stanchions on the plan and they are 30mm approx so am going with that size.

I have ordered some water foggers from China and will make up smoke units with those, £50 each is just too much. I am experimenting with the system used for vaping, my son builds his own cloud chasers and those would be enough to set up smoke screens for ww2 ships!!!

I'm already thinking about my next 2 builds, would like a fast boat, probably an mtb type and then maybe a sailer, something like a Thames barge (I blame you and Ray) or a Gloucester fishing schooner (beautiful lines), don't know if there are kits/hulls for them or if it'll be scratch build again.

I'll put up some photos tomorrow of my tug so far and wait for the laughing to die down. cheeky



Eddie Lancaster15/04/2019 09:03:29
846 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Roger, Don't worry about the cock ups, we all make them, it's surprising what you can do with a dollop of body filler!, I use the polyester based wood filler, it's white and sands very well.

I have decided to keep my steering gear inboard as well, am just off to the shed to make the quadrants for the servo and the rudder.

I would be interested to see your fogging unit setup, one of our club members has a design based on the water fogging units from China.

I have two or three sets of drawings waiting their turn on the building board,and a TSB to finish as soon as the tug is done.

Don't worry about laying the blame for wanting to build a TSB, I get the blame for lots of things!

They are fun to sail and look good on the water, sailing yesterday a club member commented on how good it looked, he then said it would be good if the leaboards worked, so I flicked the switch on the tx to lower it down, I can't repeat here what he called meblush.

Keep going it will turn out good.



Chris Fellows15/04/2019 13:46:30
991 forum posts
643 photos

Hi Roger - as said, don't worry about the cock ups. As Eddie says we all make them including the experienced guys I bet. As long as you can remedy them and get an acceptable result. That is the good thing with working with timber you usually can.

I'm hopefully learning from my mistakes but will probably make new ones on my next builds!

But hey, we're building model boats, that's the important thing.


Edited By Chris Fellows on 15/04/2019 13:47:37

Roger Clark15/04/2019 16:47:07
250 forum posts
88 photos

A marriage of convenience!!!!

Were married.jpg

Had to put the pressure on smiley

I was under pressure.jpg

It was a tight squeeze laugh

Had to put the squeeze on.jpg

Got a tight backend blush

And let no-one put asunder, it aint coming apart now.

Stanchions came today, looking good, think the 30mm will be fine.



Edited By Roger Clark on 15/04/2019 16:47:42

Eddie Lancaster16/04/2019 08:09:40
846 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Roger, now that you have the two sides together you can start to fair them to each other, the deck will of course be covered with the deck planking, the deck edge will have the rubbing rail around it, giving it its shape and strength, filler will take care of the rest and then the resin and glass fibre will encapsulate everything giving a good smooth base for the finishing paint.



Roger Clark19/04/2019 16:32:21
250 forum posts
88 photos

Hi all, the hull is about as good as it gets at this stage:



img_20190419_154548.jpgI've beefed up the keel with a couple of strips of basswood and tidied up with a 'little' bit of filler, the bottom rudder 'hinge' will be fashioned out of brass extending back along the keel to firm it all up. I need to tidy up around the prop area and then it's time for epoxy and glass, not sure whether to add that strip along the hull for bulwark support first, if I do then I'll plank the deck first as I'll take the planking right to the edge rather than leave the ply exposed.

I'm not sure that tugs of the 1930's had varnish decking! Methinks it was more likely painted for ease of maintenance.

Onwards & upwards smiley

Regards Roger

Eddie Lancaster19/04/2019 17:58:06
846 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Roger, its looking good now, I fitted the top piece of bass after the epoxy and glass, you get a sharper edge were it meets the hull, I fixed it with super glue.

If you look at the steam tug Kearne she appears to have scrubbed planked decks, and that is what i have gone for with 3 coats of thinned sanding sealer followed by 2 or 3 coats of satin varnish.

The rest of the boat I am not sure about yet, except the hull will be a dark green above the water line and red primer below it.with black and white for the rail / bulwarks.



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