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Thames Sailing Barge Stuff

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Eddie Lancaster20/06/2021 08:48:03
849 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Ray, you must be a mind reader, that was going to be my next question to you, I am going to use a spare fin that I have for an IOM, and then adjust the length and weight to suit, so the size that you are using will be a great help.

Dave, I am happy to continue with a build blog, as long as others don’t mind.



Dave Sansom20/06/2021 09:03:59
46 forum posts
23 photos

Eddie,the way I see it. 🙃

The more people read, there's more chance they might have a go

Me for one 😀

Ray Wood 221/06/2021 09:37:31
2546 forum posts
877 photos

Hi Dave/Eddie,

Yes lets keep posting, as you say it may stimulate some new builds

My 30" barge keel is on page 2 of this thread as follows :- 1/16" steel plate 2 3/4" wide 8" long from the base of the hull to the centre of the lead which weighs 1 1/2 lbs, the leading edge of the fin is set back 3/4" from the mast position.

I built up the section shape, ply covered and glass clothed, as the pictures.

It's in a centreboard case arrangement for the fin like Tim is using on his Kimberley, cross drilled with a SS split pin to stop it falling out

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 21/06/2021 09:38:06

Eddie Lancaster21/06/2021 10:44:21
849 forum posts
644 photos

Hi. Ray, thanks for that info, the fin that I am going to repurpose is 3 3/4" wide with a balsa core covered with two layers of carbon fibre set in epoxy resin, it was too flexible for the IOM that it was made for but should be fine for the barge when cut down by 5".

I have calculated the C of G from the Veronica drawings and the leading edge of the fin will be around 1" back from the mast, so hopefully about right .

How was your trip to Hastings, and did you get some photo's for future projects?



Eddie Lancaster21/06/2021 21:24:19
849 forum posts
644 photos

I have now fitted the keel to the building board, using four triangular pieces of wood to support and keep the bow and stern posts vertical, as there are no details for building a model I have marked all the main points of the barge on the keel, the hatch ends, the mast and the projected C of G, this will let me move some of the frames to the best positions for the construction of the model. Most of the frames are concentrated at the bow and stern to get the correct profile, the centre of a barge is a large rectangular box.


The frames are just dry fitted at the moment so that I can see if they are fair.


A thin spline shows that the sheer appears to be OK., with it touching the top of each frame under its own weight.


Edited By Eddie Lancaster on 21/06/2021 21:26:26

Eddie Lancaster23/06/2021 13:47:29
849 forum posts
644 photos

The first frame has now been fitted and glued in position, I have chosen one of the larger frames as it is easier to set it square across the keel, vertical and each side the same distance off the building board, I will use this frame to set all the others by sighting across the top and by measureing each one, so it has to be right.



Ray Wood 223/06/2021 15:39:03
2546 forum posts
877 photos

Hi Eddie,

Your motoring ahead with the build, jolly good, I always work inverted on the board a habit I suppose, My latest ship I was going to do half bulkheads and stick the two halves together, but worried about creating a banana boat

Hastings was lovely the other day, just forgot to take my trunks & towel or I'd have been in the sea !!

Regards Ray

Eddie Lancaster23/06/2021 17:37:37
849 forum posts
644 photos

Hi.Ray, the tug that I built a few years ago and the fishing boat that I built last year in lockdown were both built with half frames and both appear to be OK, they don’t just go round in circles.

I’m hoping for a bit more warm and dry weather as I have yet to finish painting the second IOM.



Eddie Lancaster25/06/2021 20:02:55
849 forum posts
644 photos

All the frames are now fitted with the inwales and chines fitted.img_1183.jpgimg_1184.jpg

Everything appears to be fair and central to the keel, the next decision is the planking, what material and size to use, I will experiment with what I have in the ' I might need that one day ' box.

That left side chine is not really bent, it is just the angle of the photo.


Eddie Lancaster29/06/2021 13:39:01
849 forum posts
644 photos

Hi,All, The first layer of planking is now coming along after I had considered the options. The first was to use 1/32" ply as the base for balsa planking, as I did when I built Veronica, but I had some 1mm. x 5mm. bass strips left over from deck planking, after trying this at the bow and stern, getting it around the quite sharp bend at the bow proved to be fairly easy, after wetting the ouside of the strip and tapering it so that it followed the shape set by the frames.

The stern is fairly gentle curve.

img_1188 jpg

The bow is consderably more rounded, but the dampened and tapered strips can be persauded to conform to the curve. Bass wood is close grained and doesn't split when pinned to the frames.




The main length of the strip then lays easily across the frames.

The top layer of planking will be of 1.5mm. x 6mm. bass wood, I will have to make a couple of jigs to form the curve needed at the bow after boiling the plank ends for a couple of minutes and clamping to the jigs and allowed to dry over night.



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