Andy C | 29/07/2017 16:03:45 |
![]() 478 forum posts 120 photos | hi everyone I have recently bought a new little brushed motor and a set of suppressors. Easy I thought, even read the instructions that came with them and did a search here for any other useful information. Found an interesting discussion started a long time ago about whether they are needed or not. Not opening that can of worms again. Just going to fit them. Armed with some sandpaper to roughen the surface, some solder and my trusty iron, off I went on a journey to not working and back again. So, not to be deterred I grabbed a great big rasp from the tool box and roughened it a bit more. Hotel not working for an overnight stay. After a big breakfast of "I am not going to give up" I grabbed some different solder, fired up the gas torch and tried again. This trip is seriously bugging my melon man. So what the heck is going wrong? Wrong solder, still not rough enough or something else entirely? To save on trips to "this is still not working" I submit myself to your thoughts. Cheers Andy |
Paul T | 29/07/2017 16:25:45 |
![]() 7340 forum posts 1229 photos 2 articles | Hi Andy Sounds like the can isn't getting hot enough for the solder to stick or the metal isn't clean enough for the solder to stick. I use the tip of the iron to pre heat the area before trying to solder and I use plumbers flux to keep the metal from oxidising when soldering a tag onto a can. Paul
|
Dodgy Geezer | 29/07/2017 16:53:30 |
818 forum posts 59 photos | I swear by plumber's 'Active' flux, which is an acidic compound. With it, you don't even have to clean most copper surfaces, and it seems to make solder stick to most metals... |
Andy C | 29/07/2017 17:10:13 |
![]() 478 forum posts 120 photos | Cheers. I will look that up and try again Andy |
Colin Bishop | 29/07/2017 17:37:16 |
![]() Moderator 5192 forum posts 6120 photos 421 articles | Paul is probably right, the can isn't getting hot enough but if you do manage to apply enough heat you might damage the motor, especially if the end plates are nylon or have nylon bearings. Do the suppressors need to attach directly to the can? Usually it is sufficient to simply bridge the supply terminals. If you must attach to the can then many motors will have mounting screw holes on the front face and you can simply make a tag mechanical connection to one of those using a small (and short!) screw. Colin |
Malcolm Frary | 29/07/2017 20:46:05 |
1043 forum posts | a) there is a thin chance that the metal won't solder. b) I have yet to need anything other than a single capacitor across the terminals. On small motors with tags with holes in, I poke the capacitor legs through and solder them, then use the excess wire as a more useful tag. Apart from using the right flux and tinning, the trick is a big enough hot enough iron to get the metal hot enough quickly enough that the heat doesn't have time to travel to areas where damage will occur. My basic reason for not doing it. As an aside, if one of the "side" capacitors goes disconnected there is a strong-ish theory that any interference, rather than cancelling, will enhance due to the imbalance created. |
Andy C | 29/07/2017 21:01:09 |
![]() 478 forum posts 120 photos |
Okay, I have soldered the on across the terminals. I will try again and if no success I will leave it at the one. It was just that the instructions said to install the three. I will also investigate if I can add tags to the can with screws too. Thanks for the help. While I have you though, could I ask one more. I am putting a car windscreen pump in one of Ashley's LCMs. The set up is an action speed controller, main board and switch. I have a great diagram from Mr Milbourn and it all works great by using a spare channel to operate the pump. However I have a twin outlet pump, thinking it would squirt water through both outlets at the same time. Ha ha, no only one side squirts. So he other side must be switched differently in a car. Can it be set up to do this in the boat. I.e. Left stick left fires one outlet, left stick right fires the other. Works okay with one and a splitter, but two independent would be awesome. Cheers Andy
|
Banjoman | 29/07/2017 21:24:30 |
![]() 1146 forum posts 2423 photos | Andy, I have had similar problems with unseuccesful soldering direct to the motor can, but happened to read somewhere or other that if such were the case, a work-around would be to take a strip of thin copper sheet, wrap that around the can, simply put the capacitor legs under the strip and secure the whole thing with a small screw-and-nut through the ends of the strip. As the below photo shows, I then also used the strip to earth the can to the propeller shaft ... Mattias Edited By Banjoman on 29/07/2017 21:24:49 |
ashley needham | 30/07/2017 08:47:03 |
![]() 7637 forum posts 159 photos | Like Malcolm, the motors with just one capacitor across the terminals have given no problems. I have in the past struggled and soldered capacitors to the can but don't bother any more. |
Malcolm Frary | 30/07/2017 09:25:56 |
1043 forum posts | I am putting a car windscreen pump in one of Ashley's LCMs. The set up is an action speed controller, main board and switch. I have a great diagram from Mr Milbourn and it all works great by using a spare channel to operate the pump. However I have a twin outlet pump, thinking it would squirt water through both outlets at the same time. Ha ha, no only one side squirts. So he other side must be switched differently in a car. Can it be set up to do this in the boat. I.e. Left stick left fires one outlet, left stick right fires the other. Works okay with one and a splitter, but two independent would be awesome. That depends on the particular details of the pump and the wiring of the car it was intended for. I can imagine lots of ways of doing it, but probably all wrong, depending on the pump. Most screen pumps are a centrifugal impeller in a chamber, whichever way they turn water in the middle is thrown outwards, its only escape is through a hole in the side, and off up the pipe. |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor