Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DUKW Plans|
Ashley (and others) - My friend received a prompt response from My Hobby Store (MHS) Apparently for any drawing within the X List, MHS cannot provide any further information. You just have to take pot luck and have the drawing printed off by their supplier and hope for the best. So my recommendation is that unless you know exactly what you are purchasing i.e. scale, amount of detail etc......then steer well clear.
Thanks everyone for the information. Yes RM68 would appear to be the model that I have seen before. most probably at one of the shows.
Ashley - I recall seeing somewhere a very basic amphibious vehicle (model) but it was certainly not a DUKW. It was more like an amphibious van. My friend has emailed My Hobby Store so I will let you know the outcome.
A friend of mine is after some plans for a DUKW WW2 amphibious vehicle. There are some available from My Hobby Store - RM68 on the X List. but the web-site fails to define any other information. Does anyone have any information on these drawings, scale, detail etc.?
|Thread: Graupner 2340 Jet Drives|
Dave - Many thanks for your response. I had seen these units before but via an American web-site. The main difference between the KMB and the Graupner type is the size. The KMB having a 28mm impeller and the Graupner having one of 40 mm dia. I can only assume that the KMB is therefore less powerful, although both manufacturers have designed their unit to operate via a 700 motor. I fancy having a go at a model Stalwart i.e. the same as the one featured in MB about 4 years ago. I have all the mechanical components but have been searching for the Graupner jet motors for about 2 years. The reason for the request on the MB Forum was that 2 Graupner units were on eBay about 2 weeks ago, but I missed out.
I would like to obtain/purchase some Graupner 2340 Jet Drives - Qty. 2 either as a pair or single items from two individual sellers.
|Thread: Clyde puffer plans|
A decent photocopy shop will be able to enlarge (or reduce) a drawing to the exact scale that you require. You just have to define the increase (or decrease) as a percentage.
|Thread: Plastic figures|
Typing error that should be firstname.lastname@example.org
Tim - I have just finished a 1/24 scale model and used some figures of that (1/24) scale from Adrian's Marine Figures. It is a small company run by a gentleman with the wonderful name of Adrian Clutterbuck and his wife. Adrian does not have web-site but email him on email@example.com and he will send you a coloured data sheet as an email attachment. He also attends some of the model boat shows.
|Thread: Winter is just around the corner|
Dampness - I had the pleasure of working with a gentleman who was a very keen and skilled model engineer. With them any dampness results in rust!!!!. The method of prevention used was a wooden box/case fitted with a very low wattage electric bulb. The bulb produced sufficient heat to repel dampness and prevent rust forming.
|Thread: Glazing Material|
Thanks Mike. Another option to try.
Many thanks for the ideas detailed. I had already thought of fitting curtains or blinds with a gap to allow some light out. I had not thought of the window tint and as my son is in the garage trade I will get him to make some enquiries and if possible get some surplus material.
I was at the Headcorn show (in Kent) on Saturday. I noted in the model boat village, a model with very realistic looking windows where a mirror or mirror faced plastic had been utilized.
Regards - David Marks
|Thread: Tapping a thread|
For anyone that has read the excellent article on tapping threads by Richard Simpson in the current edition (October 2015) of Model Boats. The following extra tips/comments may be of interest.
As Richard states, a common problem when producing a tapped hole is failing to keep the tap upright, resulting in a drunken thread. The tapping method detailed by Richard is fine, but if you find that the tap you are about to use has been provided with a `centre’ in the squared off stock end, then you can make use of it. Taps are often (but not always) `centred’ at both ends as part the production process. The centre is normally female but sometimes (on smaller taps) it may be a male centre. You will need the use of a lathe (or have a friend with a lathe) to make a Centring Pin. This is simply a short length of round bar say 6 or 8 mm dia., turned to a point with a 60 degree included angle. At the same time centre drill the opposite end of the bar to accommodate any taps with male centres. Place the Centring Pin in the chuck of the drill, engage the point (or centre drilled hole) with the tap and follow the tap down as it cuts the thread. Ha-presto - one `sober thread’.
Richard mentions that brass can be tapped dry i.e. it does not require a lubricant. Cast Iron, (although not a material normally encountered by boat modellers), falls into the same category, as it contains `graphite’ and therefore is self-lubricating. If you are tapping aluminium or Perspex, then paraffin is a good lubricant. There are proprietary tapping compounds available, supplied in `squinty tins’. The one I use is Screwfix own brand but I cannot find it in their current catalogue. However, I note that Toolstation market a Cutting & Drilling Cooling Lubricant - Stock Code 75018. This is probably not as good as a true `tapping compound’ but far better than cutting dry.
If you need to purchase taps and tapping drills, then in my opinion there is only one supplier to use….Tracy Tools of Torquay. They have a good web-site www.tracytools.com and a fast mail order service. They attend many model engineering shows and if you see their stand then get one of their free catalogues as it contains a page full of thread data i.e. threads pitches, tapping drill sizes etc.
Finally, due to a fluke of trigonometry, identifying the tapping drill for a metric thread is very easy. Simply subtract the `pitch’ from the `nominal diameter’ e.g. for an M10 X 1.5 thread, the tapping drill size is 8.5 mm.
|Thread: Glazing Material|
Currently building a houseboat (1/24 scale) and would like to find some glazing material for the windows in the accommodation area. I do not wish to populate the interior but do wish to illuminate the various areas i.e lounge, bedrooms etc. for night sailing. Therefore the material needs to look like normal glazing, but prevent people looking in but at the same time allow cabin lights to show through to the outside world.
Any help suggestions very much appreciated.
|Thread: Lighting Timer|
Just to close this one off. Kim of Kimosubby Shipyards kindly produced a timing device to suit my exact needs i.e. number of lights (LEDs) duration ON/OFF times etc. I received the unit this week but the model is only in the early stages of manufacture and I am therefore unable to test at the current time. A note for Dave Milbourn - as promised a feedback on the LINK that you provided. I did contact the supplier but nil response. Ditto the same result from two possible suppliers that I found on eBay. Anyway thank you gentlemen for your help....much appreciated
|Thread: Digital Calipers|
Further to my posting back in the Spring, the digital calipers are now back in stock at Lidl (as from 20 August) at £9:99 each. The manufacturing name is Powerfix which would appear to be a Lidl trade name. The items are in my opinion very well engineered and excellent value for money. They also have digital multimeters for sale at the same price (£9:99) and again these look very robust and good value for money.
|Thread: Lighting Timer|
Many thanks for the info. I will email the supplier over the weekend and let you know the outcome. I did find a supplier of dolls house and model railway related items. For model railways use they had a 24 way distribution panel for lighting buildings used within a layout for about £35 complete with 24 white LEDs.
I had previously looked at dolls house suppliers and all I found was one that could supply a remote control systems rather in the same manner as a TV remote control. Also all of the dolls house related items appear to be 12V.
I am currently building a model houseboat with a number of separate rooms/cabins. For the interior lighting, I would like to simulate the lights being turned on/off in the various rooms cabins at different times/durations, say up to 5 LEDs. Is there a timing module which would allow mw to do this? Operating voltage: 6V
|Thread: Storage Boxes|
If anyone is in the market for any storage/organiser boxes, there are some currently (as from today) in stock at Lidl. Overall size is 360 X260 mm with the number of compartments contained within variable from 8 to 20 dependant upon the insertion/removal of the dividers. They are priced at £2:99 each. I purchased 10 this morning and spent the rest of the day re-organising my modelling components previously held in variety of disused ice cream, and butter cartons etc. I consider the storage boxes to be robust, well constructed and very good value for money.
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