Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What a difference 10 thou makes ...|
Mattias - I don't know where you are located but if you want a solid metal replacement may I suggest that you locate a local jobbing engineering machine shop. They should at reasonable cost (few quid for the tea fund) be able to make a replacement. Take along your undersize item plus your feeler gauge that provides you with the correct degree of fit. This will eliminate any error that may exist with either your (or their) measuring equipment. Ideally you need an establishment with a surface grinder to give the final degree of fit, this process will ensure the finished item is perfectly parallel.
You could make an adjustable guide. Two pieces of 5 X 8 mm (if you can get it) stood side by side and then adjust the gap between them. This can be achieved by clamping as a pair and drilling some cross holes (say 2mm dia) through which pins/dowels can be inserted. You will need to drill and tap some holes for grub screws to hold the pins/dowels in place. Place the "device" in the 16mm wide slot, adjust the fit using feeler gauges. Then lock down the grub screws. For material I use a company called Noggin End Metals. Very good website and service. They also attend the Mod Eng Show at Ally Pally.
|Thread: Adhesive for styrene|
I thought I would give an update on how my styrene Plaudit hull was eventually assembled. The two halves of the hull have a flange edge which when assembled forms the keel. The two halves were carefully aligned and clamped with small bulldog clips. When happy with the final alignment Polyweld solvent was carefully applied both inside and out. After reading the article by Andy Cope in the December 2017 edition of MB, I decided on using the same adhesive as used by Andy i.e. UHU Acrylit. This consists of an adhesive held in a tube (rather like Araldite) and a hardener which is in powder form. It is claimed that it will bond plastics, metal and wood. This was exactly what I wanted as in addition to reinforcing the joint, I also needed to bond to the plastic hull, the motor mount (aluminium angle), the propshaft outer case (brass) and a plywood support for the propshaft located adjacent to the Huco coupling. Very pleased with the finished assembly, the adhesive is quick setting (about 30 minutes), the only downside is the smell, but that soon disappears as it sets. Apparently normal two part epoxy e.g. Araldite may not bond to certain plastics, so I used the UHU product and would certainly use it again.
|Thread: Humbrol Clear Colour|
Tim - It is an Amber LED i.e. when it operates it is amber, but it is just to make it look correct when in its non-active mode.
I have previously used (with great success) Humbrol Clear Colour 1322 for turning an LED (neutral colour) into an amber coloured warning light i.e. for a flashing warning beacon. For my latest project I have used the same product but when it has dried the finish is `milky white ' instead of being amber. Thinking that the content of the tinlet may have aged or become contaminated, I purchased another tinlet and used a new paint brush, but the problem persists. I have contacted the Humbrol Technical Department but all they can come up with is that the LED manufacturer may have changed the materiel used. Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
|Thread: Adhesive for styrene|
Gentlemen - Many thanks for the responses. I will probably go with the method suggested by Colin Bishop. I normally overcome problems with a belt and braces solution. David Marks
Within the next few weeks I will be starting a build of the tug Plaudit which was serialised in Model Boats in 1992. The model features a moulded styrene hull which is supplied in two halves i.e. Port and Starboard, which requires gluing along the centre line. Originally, the designer and builder (David Metcalf) used a paste to reinforce the joint, consisting of pieces if scrap styrene dissolved in liquid poly. Now, 25 years later, is this still the best way of achieving this joint? Possibly there is now a better way using a commercially available paste or possibly thin Cyno which will wick through the joint rather like a capillary solder joint. For all of my models built to date I have used styrene for the superstructure, so I am use to producing the solvent welded joints required.
|Thread: Sealing Transfers|
Thank you - Dave
Dave - The transfers are to go onto the superstructure of the model which is gloss. The other areas are deck (matt) and hull (satin).
I would like some advise on sealing the surface of a model after applying waterslide transfers, the type produced via a home computer and ink-jet printer. The model is finished with Halfords car spray paint.
|Thread: Your best tooling?|
My favourite piece of tooling in a small milling machine. I build models from scratch and this machine does a great amount of work. From simple things like making coming strips, all the same size and nice and parallel. Through to making superstructure which I normally make from styrene sheet. Cabin sides are roughed out, held together with small pieces of double sided tape, clamped to a piece of MDF or chipboard and milled to shape, square, parallel and a matching pair Port and Starboard.
|Thread: Halfords Textured Paint|
Ashley - I have just undertaken a comparison check using my stock of abrasive sheets. I would say that the texture of the paint is comparable with a 120 grit abrasive.
A couple of my models are at the painting stage and whilst on visit to Halfords for paint, I noted that they sell a `textured paint`. I decided this would be just right for simulating a deck finish and purchased an aerosol can of both green and grey. I am very pleased with the results, the green has been `over-coated' with two coats on Blackfriars matt poly varnish and I will do the same with the grey. I would recommend that if possible adding the textured paint should be the final operation as the rough texture may allow paint to creep under the masking tape. On one of my models this was not possible but the `creepage' was minimal.
|Thread: Can anyone help with info about this engine please?|
The range of engines made by this company were called ED for obvious reasons.
|Thread: Ellie windows|
There is a thread on here called "Prototype build of Ellie" which I assume is the same model boat.
|Thread: Plan reading|
Regarding items such as Frames and Bulkheads being drawn showing only half of the shape. This convention is used to save drawing time (especially before the introduction of CAD) and also to emphasise that the item is symmetrical about the centre-line. The same or similar convention is normally used for handed parts i.e. where an item has a L/H and R/H variant, only one hand is drawn, but with a note to confirm that the opposite hand is also required.
|Thread: Another Model Shop Dies|
Looking at the reply from Dave Milbourn it was interesting that he mentioned Mick Charles at Ewell. I used to go there when I was working and traveling around, plus the model shop in Addlestone. I now in the main I use the internet, but in the run up to Christmas my former boss wanted some info on model boats as he was trying to get his grandson (10) away from the computer. I advised him of some internet sites e.g. Howes, but he said he would prefer to "go and see the bloke down the road", that being Mick Charles, and apparently the shop gave him very good service. Where I was brought up in Uxbridge there were two fantastic model shops and when I think of them I can immediately smell balsa cement and the like.....happy days!
|Thread: Lolly Sticks|
I was browsing in my local Pound Shop and noted a large packet of wooden plant labels but identical to lolly sticks. I was about to cut some thin ply strips to form a soldering jig, to manufacture some screen guards for my Canadian Logging Tug. So I purchased these instead. 2mm thick X 10mm wide. Not sure what timber they are but very smooth and straight. Would possibly do a decent deck planking job.
|Thread: North Kent & S. E. London|
Dolphin Model Boat Club (DMBC) in located in Orpington. We are currently meeting monthly for Winter Workshops and the sailing season starts in April. New members are welcome or if you just have a "general Interest" then why not turn up to one of our meetings at the pond in Orpington. Full details are on our web-site. **LINK**
|Thread: Looking for X30 propeller|
Have a look at SHG. They sell a prop, 2 blade, M4, 31mm dia. In "old money " that is 0.040" too large which means 20 thou needs to be removed from each blade tip......a simple needle file job.
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