Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Adhesive for styrene|
Gentlemen - Many thanks for the responses. I will probably go with the method suggested by Colin Bishop. I normally overcome problems with a belt and braces solution. David Marks
Within the next few weeks I will be starting a build of the tug Plaudit which was serialised in Model Boats in 1992. The model features a moulded styrene hull which is supplied in two halves i.e. Port and Starboard, which requires gluing along the centre line. Originally, the designer and builder (David Metcalf) used a paste to reinforce the joint, consisting of pieces if scrap styrene dissolved in liquid poly. Now, 25 years later, is this still the best way of achieving this joint? Possibly there is now a better way using a commercially available paste or possibly thin Cyno which will wick through the joint rather like a capillary solder joint. For all of my models built to date I have used styrene for the superstructure, so I am use to producing the solvent welded joints required.
|Thread: Sealing Transfers|
Thank you - Dave
Dave - The transfers are to go onto the superstructure of the model which is gloss. The other areas are deck (matt) and hull (satin).
I would like some advise on sealing the surface of a model after applying waterslide transfers, the type produced via a home computer and ink-jet printer. The model is finished with Halfords car spray paint.
|Thread: Your best tooling?|
My favourite piece of tooling in a small milling machine. I build models from scratch and this machine does a great amount of work. From simple things like making coming strips, all the same size and nice and parallel. Through to making superstructure which I normally make from styrene sheet. Cabin sides are roughed out, held together with small pieces of double sided tape, clamped to a piece of MDF or chipboard and milled to shape, square, parallel and a matching pair Port and Starboard.
|Thread: Halfords Textured Paint|
Ashley - I have just undertaken a comparison check using my stock of abrasive sheets. I would say that the texture of the paint is comparable with a 120 grit abrasive.
A couple of my models are at the painting stage and whilst on visit to Halfords for paint, I noted that they sell a `textured paint`. I decided this would be just right for simulating a deck finish and purchased an aerosol can of both green and grey. I am very pleased with the results, the green has been `over-coated' with two coats on Blackfriars matt poly varnish and I will do the same with the grey. I would recommend that if possible adding the textured paint should be the final operation as the rough texture may allow paint to creep under the masking tape. On one of my models this was not possible but the `creepage' was minimal.
|Thread: Can anyone help with info about this engine please?|
The range of engines made by this company were called ED for obvious reasons.
|Thread: Ellie windows|
There is a thread on here called "Prototype build of Ellie" which I assume is the same model boat.
|Thread: Plan reading|
Regarding items such as Frames and Bulkheads being drawn showing only half of the shape. This convention is used to save drawing time (especially before the introduction of CAD) and also to emphasise that the item is symmetrical about the centre-line. The same or similar convention is normally used for handed parts i.e. where an item has a L/H and R/H variant, only one hand is drawn, but with a note to confirm that the opposite hand is also required.
|Thread: Another Model Shop Dies|
Looking at the reply from Dave Milbourn it was interesting that he mentioned Mick Charles at Ewell. I used to go there when I was working and traveling around, plus the model shop in Addlestone. I now in the main I use the internet, but in the run up to Christmas my former boss wanted some info on model boats as he was trying to get his grandson (10) away from the computer. I advised him of some internet sites e.g. Howes, but he said he would prefer to "go and see the bloke down the road", that being Mick Charles, and apparently the shop gave him very good service. Where I was brought up in Uxbridge there were two fantastic model shops and when I think of them I can immediately smell balsa cement and the like.....happy days!
|Thread: Lolly Sticks|
I was browsing in my local Pound Shop and noted a large packet of wooden plant labels but identical to lolly sticks. I was about to cut some thin ply strips to form a soldering jig, to manufacture some screen guards for my Canadian Logging Tug. So I purchased these instead. 2mm thick X 10mm wide. Not sure what timber they are but very smooth and straight. Would possibly do a decent deck planking job.
|Thread: North Kent & S. E. London|
Dolphin Model Boat Club (DMBC) in located in Orpington. We are currently meeting monthly for Winter Workshops and the sailing season starts in April. New members are welcome or if you just have a "general Interest" then why not turn up to one of our meetings at the pond in Orpington. Full details are on our web-site. **LINK**
|Thread: Looking for X30 propeller|
Have a look at SHG. They sell a prop, 2 blade, M4, 31mm dia. In "old money " that is 0.040" too large which means 20 thou needs to be removed from each blade tip......a simple needle file job.
|Thread: Model Boat Building as an Activity Workshop|
If you want to be very basic there is always the Blue Peter approach. Two empty plastic bottles strapped together with tape. For the motor......one of those hand held, battery powered fans from the Pound Shop. Extras such as a rudder from plastic cartons such as margarine tubs. More for children but possibly an idea.
|Thread: Todays Boating|
Further to Mr Milbourn's post which mentioned "bedding for animals" British Standards (BSI) apparently used to use a certain wheat based breakfast product W********x for testing the flushability of a certain piece of domestic equipment found in the bathroom. In my opinion, the best use for that product.
|Thread: Leopard 1050kv motor|
Robin - Further to the earlier post by Dave Milbourn. If you wish to undertake a comparison with a M3.5 thread, it is the standard thread used for domestic electrical fittings e.g. the screws which attach the socket outlets to the steel box embedded in the wall.
The other line you could pursue would be to try another fitment with a known thread size e.g. the normal thread size used for model boat props is M4 X 0.7
Robin - You do not need a pitch gauge. Just place a steel rule against the thread and just count the number of full threads over a given distance. Then calculate the pitch or the of the thread
|Thread: Planking Clamps|
Does anyone know of a UK supplier for "screw in planking clamps"? The November 2013 edition of MB shows them in use, within the article by Phil Parker on page 46.
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