Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: scratch built ?|
I think the previous comment by Colin Bishop, hits the nail squarely on the head. For enjoyment value, I scratch build usually from a plan although I have built models of boats where no plan exists and my "plan" has been made by using available dimensions and numerous photographs of the actual vessel. However some people prefer to build kits consisting of laser cut parts etc. Also a lot depends on the skill level of the individual and also the resources available i.e. tools and equipment. Just enjoy the hobby and do not worry what anyone else thinks.
Have a look at this plan. The hull length is about 30 inches. I used the plan as a basis a for a model houseboat, based on a former Thames lighter. Many were purchased and converted to other uses. I used to visit a company base adjacent to Chertsey Bridge on the Thames which had two converted lighters, one was the canteen and the other a store.
|Thread: Model Tug & Crash Tender|
Ray - Pleased that the two models have found good homes and will be giving enjoyment and hopefully enthusiasm to the next generation of marine modellers.
Regards - David Marks
Dolphin Model Boat Club, based in Orpington have been asked to assist in finding `good homes' for two model boats. These are RAF Crash Tender (36 inches) and Tug (41 inches). Having seen photos of both models, they both appear to be in good condition and extremely well built. If anyone is genuinely interested in acquiring one or both models to use (i.e not for re-sale) then please send a message to my In-Box including you email address and I will forward further details including a photo of each. The models are currently in West Wickham, Kent and the owner would appreciate a suitable donation being made to the RNLI.
|Thread: General Data Protection Regulation 2018|
Alan - Many thanks for identifying this change in requirement. As far as I am concerned to have a club you require members and those members will need to supply data i.e. name, address etc. Therefore all m b clubs need to review the new requirements and act accordingly. I have just written a draft policy document for my club for which I am the secretary.
|Thread: Lidl - Digital Caliper|
I have pushed this product previously, but this week Lidl shops have 150mm/6inch digital calipers in stock at £9:99. These are part of Lidl's Powerfix range of hand tools. I spent my working life in the world of mechanical engineering and find these Powerfix calipers extremely useful and incredible value for money. I am so pleased with them, I have two. Also currently available at the same price is a digital angle gauge. I have one and although not used that often in invaluable when required for marking out or setting an angular face.
Ooops…looks as though I have upset Mr Milbourn. Oh dear what a shame!
David, for your information, apart from holidays, most of the money that I spend on `leisure’ i.e. model boats, goes to Iain, Kyje and the rest of the crew up in North Wales. Regarding these batteries, I was starting the build of a new model which I knew would short of space for all the equipment that I wanted to pack into the hull, so was keen to get the position and space for the batteries identified at the earliest possible time.. The power batteries were at the time identified by CS on their website as SOLD OUT, so I identified an alternative source. So the current status of my model is that the hull contains: The two batteries that appear to be giving you concern, a motor which you kindly recommended to me, which I obtained from RS as CS, SHG and Cornwall did not appear to stock that item. Additionally the hull contains a servo, power distribution board, and about 5 other gizmos (all contained within little black boxes) which were all purchased from CS.
I greatly appreciate the advice that you provide to me and other boat modellers and in the same way the help and advice provided by Iain and his staff at GC. However, on this occasion David you have prejudges the situation without being aware of the full picture.
A previous post mentioned buying from RS. It should be noted that they do indeed supply hobbyists but DO NOT impose a minimum order quantity. When I have used them, their delivery has been very quick i.e. next day. The other company that I have used is Vapextech, based at West Kingsdown (near Brands Hatch). They are agents for Vapex batteries (possibly the UK importers) and again the delivery is remarkably quick. Their overall cost(s) i.e. item plus delivery is slightly cheaper than another well known supplier that we all use for batteries.
|Thread: Model Figures for Aeronaut Classic|
An approximate idea of the scale of the model could be established by measuring the diameter of the steering wheel and comparing that measurement with the diameter of a car steering wheel. Although modern cars seem to have a smaller wheel than cars of say the 60s
|Thread: Correct ESC?|
Gentlemen - Thank you all very much for your interest and help. I have decided to purchase a 540LN motor which at around £8 provides a cheaper solution than purchasing a P80 ESC. I was aware of the guidelines for matching the prop diameter to the motor case size but the 50mm does look about right for that particular model although the actual specified motor is a 545 Monoperm which is no longer available.
Ashley/Malcolm - The prop size is 50mm (as per the drawing). I will try testing using a fuse. Many thanks.
I am currently building a Plaudit tug (hull length 27inches) to which I have fitted a 540/1 type motor operating on 6V via a P92 Power Distribution Board. I have "in stock" an Action Electronics P79 Condor 10 ESC which I would like to use. The alternative is the P80 Condor 20 which Component Shop is currently showing as "out of stock". Will the Condor 10 be suitable to use?
|Thread: Miranda model steam launch|
Roger - Try putting an advert in the MB magazine. It is free of charge and will (I suspect) reach a wider audience.
|Thread: Salt water|
Anyone that attended the Mod. Eng. Show at Ally Pally about 10 days ago will have seen the model of the Ark Royal 1/72 scale and therefore 12 feet in length. The builder was in attendance and stated that it was always sailed in salt water. I think he is based in Cornwall and has no real choice, in the main I would expect due to the length of the model. As David Taylor has previously stated just a good wash down on clean water is undertaken after each sailing.
|Thread: Drlling holes for metal fittings.|
Like Paul T, I worked in engineering all my life and have nothing but praise for the Lidl range of tools. I have not purchased anything big but certainly their Powerfix range of smaller tools is very good. Lookout for their 6"/150mm digital caliper at just under £10. All (I think) of German origin. The ME show at Ally Pally has been mentioned. Try Tracy Tools for drills, taps dies etc., good quality at a very reasonable price Yes, some tools are cheap and not very cheerful but there is some good stuff around and I think that many well known brand names now procure their equipment from the Far East with just a well known brand label attached.
|Thread: What a difference 10 thou makes ...|
Mattias - I don't know where you are located but if you want a solid metal replacement may I suggest that you locate a local jobbing engineering machine shop. They should at reasonable cost (few quid for the tea fund) be able to make a replacement. Take along your undersize item plus your feeler gauge that provides you with the correct degree of fit. This will eliminate any error that may exist with either your (or their) measuring equipment. Ideally you need an establishment with a surface grinder to give the final degree of fit, this process will ensure the finished item is perfectly parallel.
You could make an adjustable guide. Two pieces of 5 X 8 mm (if you can get it) stood side by side and then adjust the gap between them. This can be achieved by clamping as a pair and drilling some cross holes (say 2mm dia) through which pins/dowels can be inserted. You will need to drill and tap some holes for grub screws to hold the pins/dowels in place. Place the "device" in the 16mm wide slot, adjust the fit using feeler gauges. Then lock down the grub screws. For material I use a company called Noggin End Metals. Very good website and service. They also attend the Mod Eng Show at Ally Pally.
|Thread: Adhesive for styrene|
I thought I would give an update on how my styrene Plaudit hull was eventually assembled. The two halves of the hull have a flange edge which when assembled forms the keel. The two halves were carefully aligned and clamped with small bulldog clips. When happy with the final alignment Polyweld solvent was carefully applied both inside and out. After reading the article by Andy Cope in the December 2017 edition of MB, I decided on using the same adhesive as used by Andy i.e. UHU Acrylit. This consists of an adhesive held in a tube (rather like Araldite) and a hardener which is in powder form. It is claimed that it will bond plastics, metal and wood. This was exactly what I wanted as in addition to reinforcing the joint, I also needed to bond to the plastic hull, the motor mount (aluminium angle), the propshaft outer case (brass) and a plywood support for the propshaft located adjacent to the Huco coupling. Very pleased with the finished assembly, the adhesive is quick setting (about 30 minutes), the only downside is the smell, but that soon disappears as it sets. Apparently normal two part epoxy e.g. Araldite may not bond to certain plastics, so I used the UHU product and would certainly use it again.
|Thread: Humbrol Clear Colour|
Tim - It is an Amber LED i.e. when it operates it is amber, but it is just to make it look correct when in its non-active mode.
I have previously used (with great success) Humbrol Clear Colour 1322 for turning an LED (neutral colour) into an amber coloured warning light i.e. for a flashing warning beacon. For my latest project I have used the same product but when it has dried the finish is `milky white ' instead of being amber. Thinking that the content of the tinlet may have aged or become contaminated, I purchased another tinlet and used a new paint brush, but the problem persists. I have contacted the Humbrol Technical Department but all they can come up with is that the LED manufacturer may have changed the materiel used. Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
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