Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: One ESC, or two|
Dave - Sorry to be a pain in the whatsit especially on Super Saturday. I am having no joy at all regarding setting up the Action P94 Dual ESC/Mixer. I am trying to set up Mode 3 using a Planet 7 Tx and corresponding Rx. Mode switch is set correctly at 1 OFF and 2 ON. Connection to Steering Servo is on H1, with the lead marked T connected to THR on the Rx. I have tried the lead marked S on AIL, ELV and RUD in turn all without success. By moving the R/H stick side to side there is small intermittent movement of the twin rudders. I cannot achieve any movement of the props. The nearest that I achieve is a mild glow on the LEDs fitted to the P95 Indicator Boards. Any clues please? My only thought is that the Planet 7 may not be compatible with the P94. Thank you in advance - Regards David Marks
Many thanks - Dave
Dave - I am trying to incorporate a Micro Diesel Sound Simulator (P63) with the P94 previously mentioned in the earlier posts. Am I correct in saying that I connect the ESC terminal on the P63 to the terminal marked H2 on the P94 and therefore require a lead with a male connection on each end? This item being available from Component Shop.
Many Thanks - David Marks
Dave - Many thanks for that. I carefully preserved the paste on the removed units so will add that on reassembly.
Dave - I have made a a pair of "gull wings" from extruded aluminium as advised. On dismantling the unit, there were no Heat Transfer Pads i.a.w the Assy Drg but there was a small quantity of white paste at each interface point which I assume is now used in lieu of the HTPs. Is there a household equivalent to this paste or is it a question of scrounging some from Kyje at CS. Many thanks.
|Thread: Help please! Inherited some boats!|
Darren - Make contact with your local model boat club. I am a committee member of Dolphin, based in Orpington, Kent and get about four or five calls per year regarding `loft finds` etc. If the models are worth anything, the money is usually donated to either club funds or a nominated charity e.g. RNLI.
|Thread: One ESC, or two|
Yes, thanks for that I will give it a try. I think the total void depth is 32 mm and I always have a good stock of extruded ali angle as I often use it as an assembly aid or for such things as making my own motor mounts.
Dave - Many thanks for you prompt response. I had purposely made the void below the deck between the two hulls a bit deeper to allow for the depth of the enclosure used for the majority of the Action units but unfortunately the P94 has the two heat sinks. As I cannot use an alternative location it will be neat hole in the deck to allow the heat sink to protrude and then a suitable cover such as a dummy crate. That is why I enjoy scratch building....problem solving.
All the best - Keep safe
I am currently scratch building a catamaran workboat in 1:16 scale, based on the drawings for a James Pottinger design called Searcher. The vessel has twin 540/1 motors, 35mm props and twin rudders. I will be using two 6V batteries connected in parallel. I will control the two rudders via `Y’ lead. Please could someone advise the best way to control the two motors i.e. one ESC or two. I normally now use Action products. Many thanks.
|Thread: HMS Prince of Wales to visit Liverpool|
You blokes are bit out of date. Since Liverpool was made a City of Culture in (I think) 2008, when you return to your car and find the wheels have been nicked, you find that it is sitting on a pile of books as opposed to bricks. This means that you have something to read whilst awaiting the AA, RAC etc to arrive with a replacement set.
|Thread: S.E. London & North West Kent|
Dolphin Model Boat Club is based in Orpington, Kent. Our 2020 programme commences in January with the first of our Winter Workshops where members can display their latest part built creations, also discuss build problems and techniques etc. Then from April to October there will be twelve pond meetings, mainly on a Sunday morning, but including two Saturday afternoon/evening events which allow members to display models which are fitted with lights. Two of our pond meetings are Charity Days with one supporting the RNLI and the other supporting AAKSS which is the local air ambulance. Due to popular demand we will finish the year with two additional Winter Workshops, one incorporating the AGM. Our membership numbers remain stable and we have gained some new members following a big push to promote our pond meetings which we advertise free of charge in two magazines distributed in the local area. This increase in spectators has resulted in us adding a document to our website entitled “Model Boats – Getting Started”. Many parents and/or grand-parents are looking to encourage the younger generation away from the TV and the Xbox, so hopefully the world of Model Boats will fulfil that requirement.
|Thread: HMS Prince of Wales|
Before I retired I used for visit a company where one of the Project Engineers was ex Royal Navy. He had served on Ark Royal and showed me a photo of when the Ark visited the States include one of Ark Royal moored with some US carriers. Which one is Ark Royal, I asked? He pointed to the vessel which I had assumed was just used for ferrying the crew back and forth to the shore.
|Thread: Glues and pins|
For wood to wood joints I now use an Aliphatic PVA which I purchase from Five Star Adhesives at one of the model shows. There are other manufacturers/suppliers such as Deluxe Materials, Titebond, sold by Axminster Tools, and my local model shop Avicraft in Bromley stock the Jim Perkins (JP) brand as do Cornwall Model Boats. I have also just started using Super Phatic from Deluxe Materials which allows joints to be made/positioned dry and then the adhesive added which wicks into the joint via capillary action in the same way as a plumber making a soldered joint. With regard to adhesive purchased form Poundland (or equivalent), I once tried their two pack epoxy......never ever again. In curing, this type of adhesive generates heat but when you have glued some lead ballast into the hull of a model and smoke appears, it is a little worrying.
I cannot disagree with any of the responses made to date. For anyone wanting drill bits, I always point them in the direction of Tracy Tools based in Torquay. This company stock a whole range of engineering tools but have a look at their drill sets which are extremely good (HSS) and extremely good value for money. The company have been going for years and were already well established when i commenced my apprenticeship back in the 1960s. I have tried to post a link to there website but there would appear to be a problem.
|Thread: Technological Progress - Is it getting too complicated?|
I believe that the `model boat' hobby can be as basic or complex as you want it. About 10 years ago when I retired and entered the world of model boats, I scratch built a Springer pusher tug which (a) floated and (b) via a cheap 2 channel 40Hz radio kit, went Forward and Reverse as well as Left and Right. However, as I progressed each model got more complex as I added lights, sound modules etc., which are now controlled via my 7 channel 2.4 radio kit and numerous `black boxes' with an Action sticker on the outside. However, my original Springer till gets used, but obviously does not possess the bells and whistles of the later models.
|Thread: Correct ESC?|
I have undertaken a further test of the set-up using the P79 ESC. I uncoupled the 540 LN motor and in its place connected a 540/1 motor. This gave an acceptable shaft speed although I did not connect the 540/1 direct to the 6V battery to establish if there was any reduction in speed between running direct from the battery or through the ESC. I can only assume that the 540LN motor is not compatible with the P79 ESC.
David - Like yourself, I checked the spec of the motor re. the number of poles. I moved the jumper within the ESC to the Linear position and found that the speed had increased but nowhere near to the speed of the motor when run direct from the 6v battery. However, the speed may be sufficient for the particular application for which it is to be used. I am going on holiday for just over a week and will conduct a pond test on my return. I would be interested in the results of you test.
Regards - David Marks
I am in the final stages if building the model previously described. I have fitted a 540LN motor which I am running on 6V via a P79 ESC. However this gives an extremely slow prop speed, in fact so slow that If I wanted I could count the revs against a stop watch. However, connecting the motor direct to the 6V battery, the prop speed is "as expected". Does anyone have any idea of what is causing the dramatic reduction is speed when using the P79 ESC! Many thanks in advance for you anticipated help.
|Thread: ESC Problem|
I will ask my friend to check the labels on the motors. I just "Googled" the motor description and up popped 12V. The model was minus batteries when acquired but has been set up with 2 X 6V SLAs in series, so may be worth trying with the same batteries but wired in parallel. I will also check the free running of the prop shafts. I can confirm the the ESC is in ample free space in the hull and not closed in at all.
Gentlemen - Many thanks for your input and help. Just one further question for DM. Following you earlier guidance, I now use Action Electronics ESCs. What would be the best ones to use in this application i.e using twin ESCs?
Regards - David Marks
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