Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bending brass tube|
Yes a quick "Google" identified Bendalloy as a UK supplier of Cerrobend. Via their STD Code., they are in Huddersfield. May be worth an email to outline what you are trying to achieve i.e. tube bore size, wall thickness, bend radius etc. and seek thier comments, advice etc.
As you will see from the information available, Cerrobend melts at around 70 Centigrade i.e. well below the boiling point of water.
Regards - David
Hopefully i am not informing you of something that you are already aware.
Attending the local Technical College when I was a Mechanical Engineering apprentice back in the late 1960s, we had a regular dose of Metalurgy i.e. learing about the chemical, and mechanical properties of different metals and more importantly thier appropriate use.
Woods Metal is an alloy containing Lead, Tin and Bismouth (to name jus ta few). It has an extremely low melting point andone of its uses was for a sealing plug in fire sprinkler systems i.e it melted when if got hot and in doing so actviated the sprinkler. Also you could fill a copper, brass or stainles steel tube with the molten material, allow it to solidify, bend the tube, then reheat to remove the alloy........leaving one `formed tube'. In its latter format it was called Cerrobend (a tradename).
I would like to manufacture some decals using my home computer and ink jet printer. Via the internet I have found a compnay called Crafty Computer Paper which market a product called Inkjet Lazertran which (if what is claimed is correct) seems to be an ideal product.
Has anyone used this product and can advise regarding its suitability for model boats?
Alternatively has anyone tried any other similar product?
What about similar products but using a lazer printer?
|Thread: Macro milling wood parts|
Steve - Not sure what you mean by macro milling. I have small milling machine - table size 400 mm X 145 mm which i use for machining model boat items e.g. apertures in decks (plywood) and superstructure panels (styrene). I made a false/sacrificial table from 18 mm MDF (which is held to the machine table using c/sunk screws into the conventional T nuts. The MDF table is fitted witha protruding batten screwed to the rear edge to act as a back stop. The back stop is set parallel to the machine axis so that any item machined is always parallel/square to the machine axis.
Items are clamped to the MDF using wooden clamps made from scraps of 8 mm ply and wood screws. Items to be machined are marked directly onto the surface with a hard pencil or alternatively onto masking tape affixed to the surface. I find that particularly styrene is prone to producing a fine feathery burr which although it can be removed easily after machining tends to obscure the marking out. To overcome this problem I firstly set the cutter to the marked line and record the setting on the index dials. I then move the table to the next point (counting and recording the number of full turns and record the next reading on the index dial. You do however have to take into account the slackness (or backlash) in the table screws. Using the milling machine produces nice straight and square edges.
|Thread: Speed Controller|
Thank you all for your help and comments. Following the comments made by Colin Bishop, I reviewed the driveline and considered that it was tight/binding. I adjusted the collar at the motor end of the propshaft to provide some end-float. this allowed the propshaft to rotate more freely.
I then had a trial run on the garden pond including running the motor at full throttle with the tug's pusher pads (lengths of V belt) hard against the edge of the pond. Although this made the motor `warm' the fuse on teh speed controller remained intact. I also did some rapid changes from forward to reverse and again no problems.
Colin - I had already purchased the Construction Special Issue.
Ashley - The motor is an Mtroniks product
I am nearing completion of my first build (Springer Tug) but am having problems with the Speed Controller, in that it blows fuses on a regular basis.
The model is fittted with the following:
Vision 500 motor, rated at "up to 12 Volts" but is running on 6 Volts
Electronize FR12X Speed Controller protected with a 15A fuse (as supplied)
Prop = 40 mm dia, 3 blade
I keep the speed to a minimum and also include a delay between switching from Forward to Reverse. However, the fuse blows afer about 10 minites running. Does anyone have any idea what is causing the problem and a suitable solution?
|Thread: outboard motor|
Does amyone know of a supplier of an outboard motor in 1:16 scale i.e. overall height of 4 inches/100 mm? A "dummy" would be fine or a cheap battery operated toy.
I already have a `TURBO' battery operated unit but this has an overall height of 5 inches/125 mm and therfore considered to be about 1:12 scale. I paid £5 for mine and if anyone is in the market for one for a model, there are some currently on ebay.
|Thread: Wiring a speed controller|
Thanks to everyone for the help with my original enquiry on 1 March.
My Springer Tug is far from finished but had a sucessful trial on the garden pond last week. I have also joined the local model boat club and attended their first sailing of the year on Sunday. The Springer went very well with no leaks, but I finally lost drive, which turned out to be a blown fuse protecting the speed controller.
I now have sufficient confidence in the build to enable me to screw down the deck, complete the building and then commence the painting.
I followed some articles by Dave Brumstead re. the Springer build and Dave based the superstructure on a model of a Motorflote. I obtained a copy of the Model Boats magazine which featured a build of a Motorflote and a free plan. In addition to the Springer, I now have a Motorflote under construction.
I would appreciate some help with the wiring of an Electronize Speed Controller - Type FR12X. I can understand the requirements to connect the Controller to both the Battery (2 X 6V) to be connected in Parallel and to the Motor. However, how do I connect the thin leads to the Receiver i.e. the White (Signal) lead, which has a plastic connector attached and the Red +ve and Black -ve leads which just have a single crimped metai connector
The receiver is a Futaba R152JE (2 channel) with three connections: Ch1, Ch2 and Batt.
Finally, how about the Antenna lead and should this be connected to a dedicated ariel? I have seen ariels advertised on model shop websites and also seen where modellers have made an ariel from a length of brass wire or piano wire. My model isa Springer Tug.
|Thread: Springer Tug|
I am about to start the construction of a Springer Tug and have noted that Dave Brumstead featured information on his build of a Springer in Focus on Scale in Model Boats magazine. I have found the initial five features via the internet and would be interested in sighting the remainder. Does anyone know which editions of the magazine these were featured? I would guess around late 2007 or early 2008. Additionally, Dave based the superstructure for his Springer on a Model Boats - Free Plan of a tug called Motorfloat by Dave Mefcalf - any idea of which edition of the magazine this was featured?
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