Here is a list of all the postings David Marks 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A Little !! Project.|
A couple of years ago, I was "absorbing some time" and went into a charity shop and found a pile of magazines, old football programmes etc. There was a Model Maker magazine, early 60's with a Vic Smeed plan for a car ferry (to suit Matchbox toy cars). What amazed me was the lack of things that we now take foe granted e.g. radio control. Also the need to manufacture items such as the prop.
|Thread: Deck Paint|
Ashley - Thanks for the info. Regarding the Halfords yellow primer/sealer. I used it on my BW pusher tug and the varnish darkened it slightly which actually made it more realistic as the actual tugs have dark yellow deck-paint which I can only assume is non-slip. Indeed some of the BW fleet have the decks painted with black/yellow chevrons...ghastly!
For all my models built to date, I have used Halfords spray primer i.e. red, grey and also the yellow primer/filler for painting the deck. Following advice I have protected this with clear matt varnish applied by brush. For my current model it will be easier to brush paint the deck and have purchased some Humbrol matt green. Will this still need a protective coat of clear varnish? I understand that protecting the Halfords primer with a protective coat is because it is porous.
|Thread: Repeat Projects|
Paul - As previously stated I find most articles in the magazine of interest as there is often a read-across from the way someone has tackled a kit or semi-kit assembly e.g. installing the prop shaft in the correct alignment to the way I tackle the same aspect of the assembly of one of my scratch built models. I have gained great pleasure from my modelling since I retired much of this due to subscribing to MB.
Regards - David Marks
Paul - My apologies, I was under the illusion that the magazine were offered kits for building as a form of product promotion. Thank you for correcting me.
Just have to see when the August 2015 issue is received. Regarding DMs comment about don't read it. Like many my preference is to build from plans and manufacture as much of the model myself. That is where I get my pleasure from the hobby. However, I do respect others that prefer kits, semi kits and ARTR. I do read the articles on building kits and semi kits as there is always an element of read-across to my scratch building. Always something new to learn.
David - The reason that it is posted twice is the fact that I would have expected someone from MB to have responded to the first post. sorry it has caused you offence but fail to see the reason why.
Why have MB decided to review a kit for the August 2015 issue that was reviewed as recently as August 2014 but in a different scale? The kit in question being the Wildcat 53 from Models by Design. Surely there are other kits that could have been reviewed.
|Thread: Masking Tape|
I was getting low on masking take and purchased from Halfords some with the brand name "Harris" which I can only assume is produced/marketed by the company of the same name that make/market paint brushes and other hardware used by the decorating trade. I always us Tamiya for the `joint line` and then use cheaper tape for the remainder of the masking. Not overly enthusiastic about the Harris tape. It appeared to be very thin as you could easily see the colour of the paint it was covering. So I also used another non masking tape to back it up. The painting was successful but removing the Harris tape was a pain and left several areas on the hull of my Ute which where remnants of the tape were left sticking to the surface. These needed careful removal helped with a little meths.
May I suggest this Harris tape is given a wide berth. Additionally, if you find a decent masking tape, keep it just for masking and don't use/waste it for labelling, sealing plastic bags etc.
|Thread: Making the boat stand|
Chris - I have just added some further photographs to my Album including two of my Ute stand. One shows the rough and ready version and the Sunday Best variant. Also before some wag on this site questions which is which, the Sunday Best has the orange carry handles. The handles are lengths of power cable from a long forgotten small hover mower. The ends of the cable are knotted, which was done after heating the end of the cable by dunking in hot water for about 30 seconds. The wood used was off-cuts from the scrap box. The protective padding used was carpet tile from the local Pound Shop.
Chris - I usually end up making two. One rough and ready for use during the building stage and then a better one for carting the boat backwards and forwards to the pond. From the R&R one you can usually pick up some further ideas to include on the final unit. Dave Milbourn mentioned padding strips. I have used foam insulation that you buy for pipe lagging, foam rubber and the last one.........strips of carpet tile (self adhesive). I have heard that some plastics used for padding strips can react with the paint of the finished hull, so be careful.. The carpet tile method appears so far to be OK and is cheap. One pack of 5 or 6 tiles from the Pound Shop will be sufficient for about 10 stands.
|Thread: Bowing plywood|
David - Firstly many thanks regarding the info on the plywood. I will stick with the Birch Ply.
Regarding the styrene hatch cover. I was wondering if the horizontal part of the `L' was cemented to the underside of the cover (instead of the narrow edge of the styrene strip) would it cause distortion? However, giving it further thought, this would leave the vertical part of the `L' unsupported.
|Thread: My Portsmouth Trip|
What happened regarding the closure of Portsmouth Dockyard? I know that it is contractor operated, but not sure if it is BAE Systems or Babcocks
|Thread: Bowing plywood|
Thank you both for the further information. I may try the styrene approach. Is the channel formed in that manner to reduce the amount of surface area which is glued or solvent welded? however, getting back to ply..what is the difference between conventional birch ply and lite ply? I need replenish my stock of ply.
I will make a new item and just treat the upper surface with the Halfords Primer/Sealer. As regards to Ashley's idea of using thickish balsa. For the present application there is insufficient space. Also I am not a great user of balsa as it does not fit in too well with my method of manufacture i.e I use a small milling machine for machining ply and Plasicard and balsa is too soft for "clamping down".
|Thread: Paint colours|
You will often find that the same colour paint from the same manufacturer is often a slightly different colour when it comes from two different batches i.e has been manufactured at a different time. My son built himself a very nice Lotus 7 inspired sports car....from scratch and not from a kit. Although the chosen body colour was British Racing Green with a yellow stripe down the middle, he chose to paint the chassis etc Post Office Red using coach paint. Although he was advised by dad to "make sure you buy sufficient paint"....he didn't. A further quantity was purchased (different batch) and the difference in colour was clear to see. The remedy was to purchase a further quantity i.e enough to paint all of the metalwork at one go. Problem solved.
|Thread: Bowing plywood|
Ashley - The dope I used was cellulose sanding sealer. The new supply is clearly marked as non-shrinking dope. both obtained from five star in Runcorn.
|Thread: LED Problems|
David/Bob - Many thanks for your update and comments. Training wise I am mechanical.....tool and gauge making from mid 1960's. Always worked for MOD and for the final 20 years of my working life was an auditor ISO 9001 and all that jazz. I can recall educating one of my younger colleagues and as an example mentioned the word Avo. The look on this bloke's face told me that he wondered what the hell I was talking about. Indeed checking with contractors (sorry suppliers) of electronic equipments, the vast majority of younger employees had never heard of the device. David mentioned Fluke. I once did an audit (calibration) at a suppliers where they had a piece of electronic test equipment made by a company called Wayne Kerr. When my report went for typing, apparently the ladies in the typing pool were in hysterics!!
|Thread: Bowing plywood|
Thanks for the responses. I have used the same process before but not on such a large panel. I confirm that the `plug' i.e the piece that fits into the deck is 6mm ply and this was topped with the 1.5 ply which I made about 12 mm bigger (all round) to form a good seal. I would have thought this would have prevented the bowing.Changing the subject slightly, one of my jobs was the updating of test laboratories. Many included custom made `worktops' which were topped with a type of Formica. I questioned why the company undertaking the work covered the underside with Formica (or equivalent) as well as the upperside. To prevent bowing, distortion was the answer.
I am building a UTE (Glynn Guest design) and made a lift off panel in the deck area to access all the usual gubbins located in the hull i.e batteries, servo et etc. the panel is made of good quality ply of 6mm thickness as the `plug' topped with a layer of 1.5mm. The panel was perfectly flat until it received three layers of dope to the upper surface as a a sealant followed by two coats of Halfords yellow primer/filler. Sadly the panel has now taken up the shape of a British Rail sandwich i.e. curling up at the edges. I can only assume this has been caused by the application if the dope.......Any suggestions to what has caused the problem.
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