Here is a list of all the postings Kimosubby Shipyards has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: PECAN PY|
just want to confirm Gareth's ideas and mine. We know that this has been done, after all there's cars, planes, rockets etc all doing it right now. There is even a specific website for robot yachts! What we are going to try is start from scratch, because that way we will learn from our mistakes and start to understand the skills needed. Our first endeavour, and as far as we are concerned, only endeavour, is to get a yacht to sail from A to B using what we have cobbled together to guide it, rather than use what was invented in the early 1900's using a piece of elastic and later a wind feather (vane).
Sounds so simple, so we are going to become that elastic band and think like it to steer/guide our yacht along. Only by doing it ourselves will we get anything from the task. Once we've worked out how the band can be replaced by electronics, we'll move up to the vane. Once that's done we can then think in 2 dimensions and gybe the yacht, but till then, steering a straight course based on the wind direction and our sail setting is the aim. We will still be poling the turn till then. After all, the most important feature of this part of the yachting is getting the yacht to sail as best it can by the sails as set. That cannot be replaced by a computer! And for those that still don't know, the rudder only operates on the RUN, that's down wind, so the rudder is keeping the yacht on the wind, not letting it fall off either by luffing up or gybing. On the beat (upwind) the rudder is locked dead ahead!
Another project would be to use the onboard electronics to sail into the wind (the beat), that is enabling the yacht's electronics to decide when a tack is required to make the target range decrease. A much harder task, but doable all the same.
We're using Arduino cos they're there and its what we started with. It also mixes with all the other boards and communicates with any and almost all. There are loads of sensor attachments that can be included, we will just plod along till we get it to happen.
Yes, there are several websites where we can download sketches already written, and purchase equipment from lists already collated and combine them all according to someone else drawings and plans. We could also use modern yachts with sail winches. Thats not for us. We are starting as newbies and will plot out own course (obviously we'll look and see what others have down) but we will do it in our own time, our own pace and our own assimilation of the relevant coding requirements. Me, I can blink LEDS to required patterns, switch stuff on and off, and other very simple bits, so this is new ground. Luckily I did use a BBC and a Commodore 64, so that bit of simple basic has helped so far with the sought of logic required.
If Gareth can fly a float plane then I'm sure he can come to terms with programmable chips. He's the systems engineer, and knows how to plan the test stages. Me, I'm along to sail and add the possibles and what ifs. Also, I live right next door to a very large expanse of usable water (16 acres) so have the test tank and safety boats on hand.
|Thread: Basic questions for Billing Boat Dana 200|
this link **LINK** will take you to the Billings Boats website and their pdf section on Hints and Tips. There you will find answers to most of your questions.
For example, wooden parts seen as wood should be stained.
Also, there is a chart of colours relating the numbers in triangles to a colour which appear on ANY of their boat kits. Look at the last page in the pdf.
I prefer acrylic paint and airbrush, but to start with, as you are, then paint brush and enamels will be fine.
It just needed a bit more searching of their website to locate the information. Be quick, their website id being updated soon.
By the way, the gondola plans were purchased from a gondola builder who lives in Venice, just off St Mark's Square, that's why they are in Italian, with a Venetian mercantile slant too, such as Venetian slang for some the construction details. I'll get there - eventually.
Edited By Kimosubby Shipyards on 29/01/2016 18:39:21
Hello Giulio and welcome to the forum.
We'll try and answer your questions, to you they are very important, to some old hands maybe not so....
Q1 I always paint parts before I attach to the model - you can always scrape a small amount off for the glue areas.
Q2 It is tempting to leave a white plastic hull white, but I would paint it a matt white, actually a matt ivory would seem a better choice.
Q3 This question requires a question what paint are you to use? Is the kit supplied with paint? Is it acrylic or enamel? Yes varnish when finished, use a matt or silk varnish. It helps when you wish to remove dust etc. The varnish must match the paint used, so acrylic varnish for acrylic paint.
Q4 Looking at the instructions (on-line) they appear to be for the colour of the item being pointed to, BUT I'm not sure as they count up quite rapidly. For instance 36 points to the mast as does 22 and 25 to the spars but these two numbers are not in triangles.
Perhaps another forum member can assist here?
Have fun, keep us up to date, I'm sure you'll enjoy it - and I know I'll require your assistance at sometime as I'm building a gondola and for some reason all the plans and wording are in Italian (and Venetian at that!).
|Thread: Dutch barge plans|
have just returned from the London MEX and have had quite a lot of success for you. My Dutch mariner came through with two dutch books which include many varieties of the Tjalk including pictures and simple drawings. Another contact at the Show gave me more dutch contacts and marine sources to search out some plans for you, once we've selected the type of Tjalk wanted.
Send me a PM and I can then pass on some of the detail to you, if still required?
I'll post some pictures here too so fellow forum members can see the type of craft Peter is discussing.
Edited By Kimosubby Shipyards on 22/01/2016 10:49:34
|Thread: Ingenuity Exercise|
I think you need a hobby young man!
|Thread: Happy New Year|
After a good sleep, what else but a nice dip in the sea for new year.
Come and join us at the Ramsey LB slipway, dip starts at 11 prompt - bring your own budgies and towel, hot drinks provided after.
Me, i'm the signing in registrar!!!
Happy New Year from over here, and for those that know
as Blein Vie Noa !!
|Thread: Subs number|
Thanks Bob, and a very Merry Christmas to you and yours as well, we're both well. We've been unable to tend the plot due to the excessive rains, but crops are still there - ready washed.
I must try some mistletoe on the plot, neighbour has apple and plums trees I'm sure could be used.
We're off doing our santa bit for the great grandson tomorrow, back Monday if the weather permits - next week looks very windy again.
We're both at the London MEX in January, Alexandria Palace, sounds awfully posh, better clean me boots and comb what hair I've left to look smart.
Hope to meet up again in 2016, look after number 1, aye, Kim.
|Thread: new build|
Amy, nice work there, but how come you get weather, I thought that was here with us now they've started naming "storms".
Good to see you are teaching Ashley some nautical terms, so what anchor type will you go for Bruce, CQR, Danforth, Kedge or just a Reef?
Ash, I think the outboard is laid horizontal on this one with a long prop shaft out back....
|Thread: Subs number|
Oh dear, should I be here? .................. ok ........here goes
Bob, its me, Kim, that's Kimmo and not the new Kim that what wants Titanic stuff!
Read this bit slowly please - your subs number is sent to you each time you pay for your digital subscription on-line by a return email, which says thank you for payment, please quote this number ..................... in all coms with us. So like all good email users you will have kept that email as proof of payment, won't you? So you can read the number and send it in.
Now here's a thing, you keep the same number each year, so like me, you'll have several emails over the years with the subs number on/in it, won't you?
Aye, Kimmo (or Kim) (or whatever) (mud-stirrer probably)
|Thread: Dutch barge plans|
Peter, I've searched all the barge sites I know without any luck. I know one of my AMBO colleagues built the Dutch Royal barge/yacht and I will see him in January at the London MEX. I'll asked him, he's dutch as well so may have contacts too as he was a merchant skipper in his day job.
BUT I did find this, mad dutchmen racing barges from the 1960s - somewhat off the scale for usual sedate sailing!
About 13 minutes long, with some odd music.
|Thread: Portsmouth Historic Dockyard Boathouse No 4|
Nice article Colin, splendid set of images, thank you.
Now I will add Portsmouth to my list of visits for some time soon, we really enjoyed Chatham and Hartlepool. Actually, we are going via Portsmouth to France in August next year, so could delay the return home by a day or two and take this in. Now how to explain that one?
I like the last shot, the frames set up for the clinker build. The Australian Balmain bug builders used a very similar technique at a smaller scale, making a strong "picture frame" and setting the frames within that. It meant that both sides could be planked together and access was available under and over the build. That's always a problem when building on a board, as most builds are with the boat upside down without access to within the hull till the planking is completed.
Thanks again, aye, Kimmo
|Thread: Scuffy and the Compass|
if you go over to the other boating place [this is like Westminster - 'in another place' and all that] they are getting into chips and starting to think "outside the hull" as it were. Just enter the Ardxxxx word in the search engine, lots of posts and interest.
Right, back to building hatch covers with compound curves!
|Thread: Model Orca|
try here CAP Maquettes Fittings: Searchlights Cornwall Model Boats are now agents for them, else the French site will deliver to the UK as well.
|Thread: Scuffy and the Compass|
when we are Vane or Braine racing we have the lake to ourselves, that is, the racing pairs set off with at least 10metres of clear water ahead of them. Yes, collisions occur sometimes, and those involved get to run the leg again.
Ducks, swans, rowing boaster whatever are always there on open waters, it's your own yacht that's likely to come off worse, thats why we have bow bumpers so as not to skewer opponents - when we should all be racing in a similar direction anyway. for example, we have a 16 acre lake to sail on here, and with just two boats free sailing on the water, originally unaware of each other as we were shielded by an Island, the boats managed to come together, no damage. We build the yachts to take some hits, we have no protrusions outside the deck line so it's very very rare to inflict damage.
We regularly hold combined events here with upwards of 8 free-sailers pottering across the lake at all angles, whilst through the middle the r/c yachters steer their course. If they want to win their race, they steer around what is the same obstacle for all, a free sailing yacht. I find it beyond comprehension that high speed electric boat racing has so few collisions, even when there are breakdowns all the time.
The chances of a collision in free sailing are the same as if using a computer controlled one, they'll all be on slightly differing courses. I think I've seen more r/c controlled coming togethers due to inattentive operators chewing the cud rather than steering the boat, and then don't mention the chap that turns up with a Lifeboat with twin brushless wanting to do 30 knots in a crowd - no don't mention his trail of destruction at all..
The challenge is in the programming, the combining of sensor inputs to desired outcomes - a bit like designing a boat - will she perform as planed - what went wrong - what needs changing. It'll keep the old grey matter churning for at least another year, and then I've got to program the Gondolier - with 17 differing oar strokes? Impossible or is it?
Good to hear from yer, well done with the charity effort by the way and speak soon, aye, Kim.
Hello everybody again,
John, I've just taken 3 minutes to look at the link to robosails you gave above, wow!!!!!! Now that's something else, we're not talking straight line sailing as with Vane or Braine, they were sailing a triangular course...
Point 1 all those taking part were UNDER 30, more like under 20. (Though one chap looked about my age.)
Point 2 they were learning about yachting, its language and how a boat sails and why.
Point 3 they had programmed the boat to "tack"when the wind come ahead. to gybe and everything.
Point 4 they were using wind speed and wind direction sensors, plus GPS (and more) to get weather/wind/position data.
Point 5 they were actually racing around a course of buoys, to a set sequence.
Point 6 they were having great FUN!!!! (Isn't that the point of our hobby?????)
I'm with Gareth on this, oh, and by the by, the boards in use on some yachts were from Bare Conductive as well.
Gareth, we could make this work, what fun, computer driven yachts - just like r/c complete with the deliberate ramming and close haul tactics but all pre-programmed in the shed! Just plot in the buoy coordinates and away. I expect some even included telemetry back to shore so adjustments could be refined for the next run.
Aye, Kimmo (it's got to be better than just flashing lights!)
|Thread: todays boating|
that last storm we had up here, Desmond, really made some interesting choices of boat. Luckily no one was injured as the vessel was empty before the bridge went, but I just thought maybe Ashley could do with some inspiration for a next project and this could just be the job for a BUSy retired gentleman of leisure 'as what he is now'.
And as we all said - wow, all that firewood and still there!
Oh, and just for authenticity, this is the number 44 school bus from Laxey school to Douglas.
Edited By Kimosubby Shipyards on 07/12/2015 11:53:03
|Thread: What Floats YOUR Boat?|
For me it's the build, especially the hull, working from lines or creating your own set (project on-going) from a photograph . I get a real buzz seeing a plank on frame hull gradually filling out, but sad as well as the frames that create the shape are covered over never to be seen again.
With a yacht it also follows that having made everything, then sailing it for the first time and starting to believe that maybe you can make a decent boat from some bits of wood, cotton sheet and string and don't require anything else except water and a gentle breeze.
And lastly it's helping others to achieve their modelling dreams too - making sails for them, or simple gadgets to control some lights, or explaining to them the complicated manual that they received with their charger but cannot quite understand its meaning, AND just showing as much appreciation and interest in others' modelling efforts as you do for your own. We may not all be the best, but we do the best we can.
|Thread: Scuffy and the Compass|
Hi, tis' me, Kimmo
gosh John and Gareth, and Dave and Paul - cool it please, thank you. My name has been mentioned......
Arduino units and yachts, possible Gareth, but to start, where are you going to plug these electronics in. The Arduino can only supply a maximum of 200-300mA power at 5V, so you will require a servo shield and possibly a relay shield plus power. Yes, servos run on 5V ok, but you need a good 3-5A supply, and the Arduino prefers a stable 9V supply for operation. I use a step up/step down regulator at 9V for this, which means I can use a feed supply of 3 - 35V incoming.
The discussion has agreed that whatever system of steering is used, the yacht can only be programmed to the current wind direction, with Braine or Vane the boat automatically adjusts wherever it is on the water, with a programmed course/waypoint the wrong wind gust and the yacht stops going! Yes you can have r/c to the unit and tell it new directions (just by moving a stick on the Tx) but then why have the Arduino in?
For simple projects involving servos, here I mean cranes/turrets/gun swivels/container lifts/dredgers etc then the Pololu system is by far the best and simplest to use. It is already set up to run 4/8/16 servos with power in and out and can either take Tx stick signal OR be programmed very simply by the user getting the memory chip to read screens of where servo travel is required at certain times (a simple stay board of actions) the user only having to input how fast the servo should travel to achieve the end position. The great thing is that on static display the model can repeat it's actions at pre-set times, on the water the TX does the work via the operator.
I did an Arduino project for a gentleman on this forum not so long back. He wanted lights to come on or off at set times throughout his model when on static display. I think it involved about 6 - 8 cabins etc and time periods of 5 - 10 minutes. There is, as far as he found, nought out there for this. I programmed an Arduino to do the job using LEDs from Component Shop, a simple micro Arduino and a step up regulator. Total cost about £20 with my making a board for it to sit in. I used less than 0.001% of the Arduino's capability for this, but he has his model doing lights on/off when he wants.
I also use Arduino units for making navigational buoys. Each now has its own board because they are so cheap. This means they are independent of any master unit, no wires etc. AND most importantly, ALL the light sequences comply with COREGS so can be used for training persons wishing to pass Yacht Masters Certification or even Officers for shipping companies. I have orders from the USA for these!
|Thread: Sailing Section|
Thought I'd add a bit, hi Mark and co, Dave,
I make my own ratchet inserts for the Tx, its just a brass strip about 4mm wide, hole one end for the holding screw and for the ratchet engagement I simply solder a 0.5mm section of brass rod across the other. Do the solder first, then it's easier to approximate the hole position. I tried the sharp bend but the strip breaks.
Saves robbing another set, and so simple to fabricate. I think most of my units are on ratchet, even the rudders, as all the units have displays so I can see where the servo travel is.
You'll have fun with two winches and a rudder to control, I built a large cargo boat (6 feet) and had tank stick steering, rudder on RH stick and ramp up/down on LH stick plus an additional stick mounted about the aerial for the bow thruster left and right movement. Fingers and thumbs keep moving...... lets all have a cup o' tea.
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