Here is a list of all the postings Glynn Guest has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Just got a camcorder|
Please do not take the absence of any response for a lack of interest. I, probably like many others, take great pleasure in viewing your work even if I may never try to emulate you.
In fact this latest model looks like it could form the basis of a simple yet attractive design for a working RC model. The layout is practical and it has a handsome appearance. But, I've too much on my plate at the moment for another model just yet but someone else....?
|Thread: What am I doing wrong now|
If the pump is as you describe, i.e. a single inlet but two outlets, it's probably the same as I used in the Elliot fireboat (Oct 2011 issue).
Due to the swirling action of the centrifugal impeller, water is driven into one outlet or the other without the need for any fancy valves or such like. This was ideal for this model since a simple servo operated reversing switch (no need for anything electronic) would operate either the twin fixed monitors or the monitor on the elevating/rotating platform.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Hot hot hot|
Oh dear, "re greased the tubes" is often the sign of a problem?
Grease filled prop tubes can create significant viscous drag when the motor turns at speed.
This might be part of the problem. I'd be inclined to measure the current drawn when running the props out of the water then flush the grease out, refill with oil and retest. You might find a significant reduction in the current.
|Thread: Pine wood|
You did nothing wrong in asking for advise on the used of alternative materials. It is not always possible for a modeler to use exactly the same materials as used in the prototype model. In view of your admitted lack of experience you were wise to ask.
Colin has made some good advise in using two pieces of timber, glued along the center-line to produce the desired section. I would suggest that a "strap" might not be needed to reinforce this joint. By using the "as supplied" edges of PSE timber for the surfaces to be glued together, a strong joint can be made with no need for "straps". I have used this method many times with excellent results.
If you have to use 15 mm thick pine then it might not be a problem provided you avoid adding too much top weight to the final model and use dense ballast as low as possible inside the hull.
Designers have to accept that modelers will sometimes have to change a design to suit available materials, equipment and personal preferences. There is nothing wrong with this and I try not to be too prescriptive about what materials, RC gear, ESC's and such to use. It seems much better for example to say something like, this motor and propeller draws so many Amps in this model, so you can select an appropriate ESC.
Good luck with your model.
You are indeed a brave man to not only contemplate building a model from a free plan and altering it but also not apparently reading the construction article that came with it. Still, I'm not sure if the people who offer advice without reading the article first are even braver?
The motor used in this model and found to perfectly adequate was a RE 540 LN obtained from MFA. This was described on page 18 of the magazine along with basic data of free running speed and current, stall current and the actual current drawn when directly driving the 50 mm diameter (with a pitch ratio of 0.85) propeller. Suitable alternative motors such as the RE 360/385 were discussed.
I think you will find that even with your planned extension to the hull, little (if any?) extra power would be needed on this model.
I do applaud your willingness to alter a design to suit your personal tastes or situation. Far too many people refuse to do this, probably from the fear of failure or lack of imagination? If you don't experiment, you don't learn anything and sadly too many people seem to prefer "alternative facts" these days. For them, the Internet has been a godsend.
Good luck with the model
|Thread: Warming up RC gear|
Attempting to solve problems via an internet forum is a popular pastime for many, even though it is fraught with many difficulties.
I will only say that your experience with initial servo jitter after the RC gear has been unused for a significant length of time has also occurred to me. After some investigation I was able to locate the cause, the potentiometers in the servos or on the transmitter sticks.
It appeared that the carbon tracks within these potentiometers had become "dirty" when left unused. I hesitate to use the word corrosion since my gear is stored in a warm and dry place. More likely to have been a thin deposit of dust (carbon particles?) that slowly accumulated.
One servo, which was particularly bad, was opened up and the pot track wiper found to have a deposit on the contact surface, Wiping this away and cleaning the carbon track allowed the servo to behave normally when reassembled.
Like you, I've found that servo jitter usually disappears after a few cycles of operation. Presumably this wipes the potentiometers clean. Now I come to think of it, some audio equipment has also shown a similar problem with the volume control knob.
So. I'd suggest that you do not worry about this problem but maybe use it as an excuse to sail your models more often?
|Thread: Gun turret rotation using servos.|
Is there something wrong with using a 180 degree rotation servo?
Ref Model Boats Feb 2014 page 10.
|Thread: Two ESC's into one receiver|
"Tank Steering", using the "up/down" motion of the sticks on a transmitter with two dual axis sticks has worked perfectly for me in previous models. I try to imagine that the transmitter in my hands is actually the model and thus the moment of the sticks corresponds to what I want the model to do.
Like most things, it takes a little time and effort to master. But, once learnt you can make the model perform very precise maneuvers.
Having said that, I have made great use of "elevon mixing" in the transmitter and this does take less skill to master.
It is after all your model, so built it any way you fancy. If it is not exactly doing what you want, then try changing things. This is how you learn and understand about something.
|Thread: Model Boats Commemorative Issue|
I have to guess that you have the commemorative issue from which you are building the Moonmist model. The construction article did explain that a standard size servo would not fit upright inside the hull and I used a slightly smaller one.
This was done to avoid having to turn the servo on its side and having the servo and tiller arms rotating in perpendicular planes. This is a personal dislike of mine but, done with care to ensure a smooth and reliable link between the arms, it would work.
So, you could fit a standard size servo if you wanted to.
Alternatively, the model is in your hands, you can measure the space available and buy a servo that fits and matches the RC gear you plan to install. A small low powered model such as Moonmist will not require much in the way of rudder servo torque, any miniservo ought to do. Telling you the type of servo I used will not help as it is an old type, no longer available and its plug does not match any currently produced RC gear.
|Thread: First boat|
Humm..... this gets more curious as time goes on.
Just taken the published plan out of the magazine and found that the hull side pieces are infact the correct size. Clearly the magazine employs a very skilled designer to redraw plans for publication and correct any mistakes in the original draft.
Ah!....... I now have the answer. The second bulkhead should be glued to the hull base ahead of the 1/4" square cross piece. The published plans show it behind this cross piece which accounts for the 1/2" apparently missing. My original draft did show the correct bulkhead position but was not perhaps as clear as it might have been.
The answer to your problem is to remove the second bulkhead. I guess it is firmly glued in place so cutting it off at the level of the cross piece might be the best thing to do. Then make another bulkhead and glue it ahead of the cross piece.
Sorry about this problem, I promise to check and double check all the damn lines on my next plan.
Just checked my original drawings and it looks like I drew the hull sides one inch too short.
Mr Nelson, the best solution might be to cut out two new side pieces with the bows extended one inch (25 mm) forward. Repositioning the bulkhead may well cause more problems than it solves. The two short sides will not be wasted as they can be cut to make the deck and superstructure parts. By the way, you are to be congratulated on trying the fit of parts before applying any glue, also stopping when things do not look right.
I will contact the editor and see about getting a correction published.
Thanks again for pointing out this mistake.
|Thread: Model Boats Commemorative Issue|
Do you really think it fit and proper for your daughter to recieve a "Get Well" card from a total stranger?
I do not believe that we have ever met, as such it would be disrespect of me to be overly familiar in any correspondance. This is the way I was brought up and would hope my children and grandchildren behave.
I too share your problems when writing and do wish this site had a spellcheck function. This would save having to proof read everything carefully and keep reaching for the dictionary.
As for pomposity, ect....... It is hard for me to let people labour under a misapprehension. Surely it is a good thing to identify errors, correct them and, perhaps most importantly, learn from them.
Finally I am puzzled as to why you brought the sickness of your daughter into this thread? I would mnever have dreamt of mentioning my sick and hospitalised father nor my equally sick mother-in-law.
Your concern for my health whilst a most Christian act, is misplaced.
Reference to your point about making a valied point, I guess you ment "valid". I understand that valid means "capable of being justified". On this basis the original comments were not justifiable.
Had Mr Bland disgreed with my comments about the Moonmist design being unsuitable for 540 motors or wanted to alter it to match the Graupner unit, then it would have been a different matter.
Please read the Moonmist article.
" those modellers who blissfully drop 540 motors into everything they build would have problems with this model....."
The item you refer to is designed for such motors. Whilst it is not impossible to install it in the Moonmist design, it is not to be recommended. The 385 motor used in my model was a perfect and safe match for the Moonmist design.
Please read the Moonmist article.
It says " ...failed to locate any suitable replacement for the modest needs of this model."
The ROBBE item you mention would be much too powerful. The GRAUPNER item would not suffer from this failing but its short propeller shaft would make any sensible installation, without drastic alterations, impossible.
|Thread: Which wood?|
By all means try 3 mm plywood but you may find that it becomes something of a struggle when building smaller models. "Liteply" might be easier but you will still have a quite open grain surface to fill and seal.
Returning to your original post, I think I saw the plan article you mentioned. Yes, like you I thought the finish on a balsa hull looked ghastly.
The only reason for such a poor finish is the lack of knowledge, effort or the desire to produce a smooth surface. Over the years cellulose dope (neat, thinned or bulked up to make "sanding sealer") has served me well. Several coats, sometimes with a layer of tissue paper, ought to make a balsa surface fit for painting.
True, balsa does not make an indistructable hull but if you abuse your models then I doubt that any material will satesfy you. With reasonable deign and construction standards, balsa hull can be built quickly and ecconomically. I'm still sailing such hulls that are into their fourth decade!
|Thread: How to get more|
One of the problems with trying to squeeze more functions out of a two function RC outfit is that it can quickly become expensive, more expensive than buying a multi-function outfit!
However, a simple and cheap way to add bow thruster operation would be to place two microswitches such that full rudder movement would operate one or other of the switches. Wired up to give Forward/Stop/Reverse with the bow thruster motor and you have this function. True, you cannot mix the drive motor(s), rudder and bow thruster actions like totally independant functions but if you want to rotate the model when stationary, it works OK. By the way in my experience unless the bow thrusters are very powerful they have limited effect when the model is underway, thus general sailing is not greatly affected. Like most things in life you can achieve 80-90% of perfection very cheaply!
If the motor control system has a sufficently large STOP band then it might be possible to use one position in this band to operate a switch (perhaps via another servo and "Y" lead to turn a water (fire) pump on?
As Barry Foote says, the other functions can just be manually turned On/Off as required.
|Thread: Universal couplings|
Ah! now we know the application so advice based on experience can be given. Having used many 385 motors and some in submarines, I'm happy to use a short length of silicone fuel tubing. Provided it is a good push fit onto both shafts then it works well. You do need to get the shafts in line to minimise any power losses.
It's silent, durable and, best of all, cheap.
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