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Member postings for David Meier

Here is a list of all the postings David Meier has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Thicknessing wood
12/06/2010 23:09:28
Hi Ian.
 
If the weight of the planer proved not enough when planing wider strips of wood you could try putting an elastic tie down over the planer and attached to the wooden block to give more down force. Also having fresh sharp blades would help.
 
I am interested to hear how you get on.
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: prop direction
12/06/2010 10:42:28
Hi Ashley and Colin.
When you say inwards turning and outwards turning are you referring to the top of the propellers or the bottom? Forgive me if it is a silly question but it is not clear to me.
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: Lead Ballast
12/06/2010 10:33:14
Hi David.
I agree with Colins suggestion of using lead shot.
My RTR Monsoon yacht had a hollow GRP keel bulb with about a 6mm dia hole in it. I was able to get more than the minimum suggested weight in the bulb this way and I sealed it with a bit of Silaflex RTV  so that I could adjust the weight at a later stage if I should need to.
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: Thicknessing wood
12/06/2010 10:16:12
Hi Ian. Thanks for making your original post. You got me thinking and I have now made up a thicknesser using my electric hand plane.
 
It works better than I dared to expect and I am rapt to now have such a useful tool. The trial pieces that I thicknessed were 3,5mm rough sawn strips cut from a piece of 18mm thick dressed rimu. They came out to 2mm +0.06 - 0.00
 
Cheers.
David.
 
The pictures below show how I made it.
 
I used a 150mm x 50mm piece of dressed pine cut to 100mm longer than the electric plane. I then fitted a 25mm high wooden fence on one side. ( it must be lower than the protruding planer motor cowl) next I placed two screws with a piece of 10mm dia aluminium tube around them to the front and back of the protruding planer belt drive cover. The posts constrain the plain and stop it being pushed back when you feed the wood through.
 

The two white strips are 2mm thick cardboard. These are what determine the final thickness that the wood will come out to.
 

This is the timber input end. The planer has been set to take a 0.5mm cut. I later moved the posts back 50mm to give a platform to rest the wood to be thicknessed on. It is necessary to momentarily lift the front of the plane to feed the wood in.
 

A 3.5mm thick rough sawn strip and a similar strip after one pass through the thicknesser.
 

Showing the depth of cut
 

The rimu strips were consistantly thicknessed to between 2.00mm to 2.06mm over 10 strips thicknessed.
 

You can just see the timber coming out the back of the plane.
 

The timber is nearly through.
 

The thicknesser must be constrained loosley because it is gravity that holds the plane down on the timber.
 

The end product. Each strip took three passes through the thicknesser.

 

Edited By David Meier on 12/06/2010 10:18:16

Edited By David Meier on 12/06/2010 10:21:37

Thread: large r/c yacht
10/06/2010 07:07:22
What a pity, but sometimes the best thing is to start a fresh. Take heart the learning curve starts out steep but soon starts to level off. You might even start enjoying your self soon.
 
David.
Thread: How Will The Financial Crisis Affect Your Modelling?
09/06/2010 10:37:36
Good on you Bob. You are on to a winner there. Your models are stunning and their size makes them very collectable. I don't think I could bear to part with them.
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: Thicknessing wood
09/06/2010 10:28:04
Could you lash something up using an electric hand plane?
What thickness and width strips are you wanting?
 
David.
Thread: large r/c yacht
09/06/2010 07:43:03
I was lent a bunch of Marine Modelling International magazines the other day and have just spotted the final article in a series on renovating a one meter yacht.A FeFe no less.
 
The magazine date was October 2005. I have no idea how many articles there were in the series, might be worth trying to track them down at your local library Roger.
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: How Will The Financial Crisis Affect Your Modelling?
09/06/2010 02:01:09
"will scratch builders find their markets falling away as buyers and collectors “tighten their belts"

That is an interesting question to me Bob.
 
I just assumed that people built their models for pleasure and put them on a shelf in the shed or in the lounge until she who must be obeyed said enough. At which point you begrudgingly gave one away or tried to sell it.
 
Just curious, how many people on the forum scratch build with an income motive in mind?
 
At my build rate I would be rather hungry. Where as someone as prolific as Ashley would be agonising over what would be a safe investment for his next million.
 
cheers.
David.
Thread: large r/c yacht
09/06/2010 01:42:33
Hi Roger.
I am not sure what type of construction your boat is but if it is a skin over frames, then you can extend the frames down to a common datum line on your plan. Cut the frames to this point so they will all sit on your building board. You then cut the surplus length off when the frames are clad with the ply and you have finished with the building board.
 
The following picture shows just this situation on a trawler That I am building (embarrassingly slowly).
 
As you see some of the frames don't go down to the datum as they should. That was the scraps of ply I was using weren't big enough.
 
Cheers.
David.
07/06/2010 08:03:09
Hi Roger.
I have just spotted this on the web site that I mentioned in my previous post.
 
The top data relates, more or less, to an RMG 280D winch with a 26 mm drum pulling an IOM A rig.  Worth noting that a 26 mm drum has a 13 mm radius... (smile).
 
The bottom data relates to a Hitec 5745 set up as an arm winch with a 80 mm radius.
 
So in the light of this info I would think that your 6.5 kg-cm sail winch would be fine.
 
Cheers.
David.

Edited By David Meier on 07/06/2010 08:04:04

07/06/2010 06:52:49
Hi Roger.
With regard to the sail winch being up to the job I don't have enough experience to give you a definite answer, but I would give it a go if it were me in your situation. 
 
Can any one else give Roger a more helpful answer?
 
Here is a link which may help you if you are making your own sails. There is a lot of useful information on this site.  http://www.onemetre.net/Build/Sailblok/Sailblok.htm
 
Looking forward to the picks.
 
David.
06/06/2010 23:44:31
Hi Roger.
Did you get my PM about the three sail sizes?
 
The three sets of sails are for different wind conditions. They are usually referred to as No 1, No 2 & No 3 sets and are for light, medium and strong winds. So to start with you could pick a size that best suits the predominant wind conditions and later make the other sets as you get into it.
 
You could get the half size bits of the plan blown up to full size at a photo copy shop. I have done this on a number of occasions and it works well.
 
Can you post some photos of the build progress?
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: prop shaft oiler
06/06/2010 05:24:38
My opinion is that you don't need an oil tube for scale models, but you do for high speed racing type models.
 
Cheers.
David.
Thread: Very Cliquey?
06/06/2010 05:12:42
A very generous reply to Tony's last post Colin.
 
Thanks for all the good work you put into running this forum.
 
Regards.
David.
Thread: large r/c yacht
03/06/2010 08:44:07
Hi Roger.
On a yacht the positioning of the servos is probably not to critical as the far bigger balancing factor is the lead at the bottom of the keel. Positioning the servos for convenience is more practical and you can always do some trimming with where you put the battery pack and receiver.
 
Is there a model boat club near where you live? I found it tremendously helpful when I visited our local club, seeing the different way things are done on peoples boats was a great help and I could chose the methods that I felt suited me best . There is such a lot of knowledge in these organisations and every one is so willing to help. Needless to say I soon joined the club.
 
Cheers.
David.
02/06/2010 03:16:32
Hi Roger.
Here are the photos I mentioned on the PM.
If you look closely you can see one thread coming out of a curved tube on the front of the deck on the small green boat and then changing to two threads by the mast stay wire (one thread going to each sail).
On the Monsoon yacht a thread comes from each side of the sail winch drum and go through separate holes in the deck to each of the sails. 
 






Edited By David Meier on 02/06/2010 03:25:14

02/06/2010 02:17:05
Hi Roger.
As a general rule you want to build the yacht hull as light as possible and have as much lead as you can at the bottom of the keel to make the boat sit to the waterline. This gives the maximum amount of righting moment to counter the wind force on the sails.
 
Having said that if you are like me and working to a budget and you have 3.5mm ply already why not use it. The boat will still sail, it will just be a bit slower than one of the same design with a lighter hull and more lead on the keel.
 
Happy building.
 
David.
 
 
30/05/2010 08:50:55
Hi Roger.
For a one meter yacht you would be best to use a sail winch servo. For smaller yachts you can use a largish standard servo with an extended arm to give the required travel. I have a ready to run 900mm yacht that came with a sail winch to operate the sails and I have a 750mm yacht that I restored and fitted a 10kg metal geared servo that I extended the arm on. Both work well. It is just that the sail winch is more up to handling the loads you get with the bigger yachts.
If you are interested I can post a photo of both types.
 
Cheers
 David.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

20/05/2010 07:42:22
Hi Roger.
Here is a site that has some free plans on it. 

http://www.modelismonaval.com/index.html

I have down loaded plans from the site and started making one of them. The text on the plans are in Spanish which is a bit of a challenge, but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.
 
Hope this is of some help.
 
 David.
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