Here is a list of all the postings Kiwimodeller has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Advice please|
A very small and tidy steam throttle valve for 1/8" and 5/32 copper pipe is available from Bruce Engineering which is part of Polly Model Engineering. I am sure a Google search will find them. From memory the cost was about 17pounds.. Cheers, Ian.
|Thread: Taycol Motors|
|The Bridge Rectifier has four terminals. One lead from the speed controller goes direct to the motor common. The other goes to the rectifier. Two leads from the rectifier go to the motor forward and reverse terminals. The manual reverse lever is removed. I remember one of the terminals on the rectifier had a sine wave symbol but if Chris wants to go ahead with it I just need to look up which terminal on the rectifier connects where. Cheers, Ian. (and no, I am not in to train spotting!)|
|Chris, it is entirely possible to suppress Taycol motors successfully and I certainly did not have to alter the internal wiring of the motors to get them to reverse. Forward and reverse are both smooth and proportional using an ordinary Electronize controller. The feed to the motor is passed through a bridge rectifier using only three of the four terminals, I would just need to hunt out the old diagrams (which were given to me on the old Model Boats forum) or have a look at the boat to see which terminal connected where. The rectifier is apparently very common, I was given a second hand one by a local TV serviceman and it is still going strong 4 years later. For the suppression of these and any other motors giving problems I suggest you go to the Traders Directory on the home page of the other model boat forum, look down the list for a Canadian company called (from memory) Model Solutions of Canada, go to their website and read or download the article on RFI suppression. It is by far the most comprehensive yet easily understood article on the subject I have ever seen. I use a capacitor and resistor in series across the terminals, the same from each terminal to the motor body, an earth wire from the motor body to the propshaft tube and Ferrite Beads on the leads. Also put the power wires on one side of the boat and the leads from the receiver to the ESC on the other. Once you read the article it is easy to follow and all electric motors should be set up this way. You may well want to fit a modern motor for more speed and a longer running time eventually but why not have the pleasure of seeing the original motor go first? You could even do it the simple way, fit the suppressors and then run the speed controller for forward only. Some of my boats do not have reverse and it is no big deal. Just found the link I was looking for, it is http://www.modelsolutions.ca/ Hope this helps, Cheers, Ian (in New Zealand).|
Chris, many will mislead you! I have been involved in several discussions on this and other forums over the years and I can assure you it is perfectly possible to run Taycol motors with modern speed controllers and get them to reverse and to run well forwards. It is not as simple as running a modern motor and the newer motor will probably be faster and draw less current so the battery would last longer but as I say I was given good advice and still have my Sea Queen with Taycol Double Special out to play regularly. If you want to do it I am happy to dig out the copies I kept of earlier postings and tell the story again. Regards, Ian.
p.s. You do not need a third channel or extra servo to reverse the Meteor by switching, you do it electronically with a Bridge Rectifier
|Thread: Materials for sail making|
|I too would like to know what is the best material for old fashioned looking cloth sails for my stand off scale J class and also how to get the right shape. The professional sail makers only seem to be able to work in modern materials such as Mylar and stick the panels together rather than sewing them. The rules for the class give maximum sail dimensions but this does not tell me how much curve to put in the cloth etc. Any help or leads to useful websites appreciated. Thanks, Ian.|
|Thread: looking for an engine|
|Greg, I had corresponded with Sandy from ACS re the valve on the Paddleducks forum as it was for my paddlesteamer but then I messed about with what I had ( a needle type valve) for a while and by the time I had decided that was never going to work properly ACS had closed. A great shame but I understand the pressures of being a One Man Band and trying to make a living pleasing everybody. I have followed discussions about Turbinia with interest but as it is I will be 105 before I finish current projects! As you say there is no harm in dreaming. Brian, take this as a warning that once you get a steam plant you will be hooked and always trying bigger, better or different ones. At least there is lots of help available for the addicted on this, the Modelboat Mayhem and the Paddleducks forums and probably others. As an older friend often says " Of course it can go better - open your wallet wider!"|
Greg, where did you find the throttle valve? They are hard to come by, the only one I have been able to find though these forums is from Polly Engineering and it is a little small for the engine I want to use it on.
Brian, there seems to be a shortage of UK manufacturers since ACS and Cheddar closed. Some of the smaller engines in the Stuart Turner range were previously made by Cheddar. Some other names to do a Google search for are Anton and Regner in Europe and Quayle Engineering here in New Zealand. I have also seen an add somewhere for a new range made by Graupner but cannot recall who the distributor was. Hope this helps, regards, Ian.
|Thread: Power requirements?|
|Two things that might help the research in to the alternative propulsion - first go back in time and see if anybody has copies of magazines pre WW2. It was common in the early 1900's to have boats powered by clockwork springs and any photos you could find might give some idea of prop size. The second idea is why limit yourself to a water prop? If I was wanting a lightweight reliable propulsion system I would be trying an air prop driven by strands of rubber as some of the old model aircraft were. You would need some sort of lock that was radio controlled so you could release it when required but my memory of aircraft with multiple long strands of rubber wound up with an old eggbeater hand drill was that they were powerful and ran for a long time relatively speaking. It never hurts to think outside the square. Cheers, Ian.|
|Thread: What ESC|
Chris, I am familiar with the Commander having had one thirty years ago! The Sea Queen is its big sister, looks very similar and is now re - released by Jotika. I like to use the original type of motor in my older boats just for the sake of nostalgia but that does not extend to the radio gear as I suspect the old gear would probably interfere with every other boat on the pond. Best of luck with your experimenting.
|Chris, I have a 46" Sea Queen, fitted with the old Taycol Double Special motor from the 1960's. To this I have fitted a modern radio set and an Electronize ESC with a 12v 7AH SLA battery. Even though the battery is quite heavy she still needs extra lead ballast. This set up comes close to planing, looks good on the water and does not come anywhere close to oveheating. It seems to me that if you are experiencing overheating it is likely that the motor is having to work too hard to even get to the speed it does now. My suggestion would be to go to 12volt, still with a SLA battery (the smaller batteries in some of my other boats do not give much of a run time and the batteries also get hot). The current draw on 12volts should then be less resulting in less heat. The other thing to play with is prop size and pitch. A smaller prop or one with less pitch will allow the motor to run at less load, draw less current, perhaps rev more to be in a range where it works more efficiently and produces better power to get up to planing speed. Hopefully my ideas will give you some thoughts to start with and some others will chime in with their ideas which is why the forum exisits! Cheers, Ian.|
|Have sent you a P M re this.|
|Canyou not order back issues through this website? You always used to be able to.|
|Thread: Search function|
Hi, can somebody please explain to me how to use the search function on the forum. I had posted earlier in a posting entitled "Amphicar", had found some more info and went looking for the topic as I had forgotten what part of the forum it was in. I searched in Titles and then in Messages but got no matches. I eventually found it by going to my profile and looking for previous posts but I just wondered why the search never found it? I often use the search to look for posts on my favourite subjects but am probably missing posts if the search function does not work properly. Thanks, Ian.
|The article was in Model Boats January 2005. Although not a plan feature there are some basic drawings you might be able to scale and it is a very comprehensive article several pages long with many photos of building the model with botth wheel and prop drive. Hope this helps, regards, Ian.|
|Thread: R/C Electronics Running Amok!|
|Don't forget (both Mike and Ashley) to let us know what finally sorts the problems. We are all still learning here. Thanks, Ian.|
|Thread: Plans for a Aero Kit|
|Dave, it is the instructions you need as much as the plans and I would imagine that the instructions would be very similar for most of the Aerokits range. I cannot help with the Rover I am sorry but you may find that the instructions for the Sea Commander and similar would give you enough of an idea. Jotika have re-released the Sea Queen so perhaps they could help with instructions for that. Hope this helps, Ian.|
|There was definitely an article in one of the mags in the early 90's on how the writer had built one. Will see if I can find it at the weekend when I go to my storage shed. Cheers, Ian.|
|Thread: R/C Electronics Running Amok!|
|I have had similar problems with my Aerokits Sea Hornet fitted with a 540 motor and an Electonize controller even though it had some suppressors fitted. I found a very good article at http://www.modelsolutions.ca/ in an article on RF Interfence. I followed their reccomendations and found that what made the difference was fitting the Ferrite Beads to the motor leads. Obviously the capacitors on their own were not enough. The only time I get any problem now is when the battery is getting really low, the BEC still works but it is like there is a time delay and it does not like steering and motoring at the same time. When that happens I know it is time to get it to the bank pronto. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ian.|
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