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Member postings for Who Boot

Here is a list of all the postings Who Boot has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Bending 5mm brass rods to make driveshaft
01/02/2021 22:14:14
Posted by David Marks 1 on 31/01/2021 20:31:14:

Firstly the brass needs to be annealed (softened). This will make the bending easier, provide a sharper bend radius and greatly reduce the risk of the material fracturing whilst producing the bend. You will need a small butane powered torch to heat the brass to a very dull red. To produce the bend (as previously stated) you need to make a bending tool. If you have a lathe or know someone that has, drill a couple of pieces of 10 mm bar with a 5mm dia hole through each, One bar is held in a bench vice and the other used to bend the brass into the correct angle.

Hi David

Thank you for going to the trouble of explaining quite a detailed procedure. Because it is something I've not done before I don't quite follow what to do ; is it the bending tool that gets drilled with a 5mm hole? How deep would the hole be? I'm sorry you're going to have to explain that a bit further to me please before the message gets through to my lack of understanding. I've no doubt the explanation is clear to somebody who knows the subject better than me.

01/02/2021 17:36:33
Posted by Richard Simpson on 31/01/2021 19:22:38:

I definitely think you need to bend them at the same time so both cranks go through exactly the same process. I would make up some sort of jig that holds the two cranks simultaneously. Something along the lines of a piece of wood with two close fitting holes drilled through it that will hold the rods then, when put into a vice will actually grip them. The rods can then be bent together by applying a force through another piece of wood or a bar.

You are going to have to think the process through for yourself but I would tend to suspect that bending the offset might be done first. At the end of the day the main shaft has to remain perfectly aligned, which is far from easy with bending. I also suspect though that, for what you need it for, absolute perfection isn't necessary so trial and error may be required. Perhaps a few practise runs with some cut up coat hangers might help you think it through and practise. Knitting needles are usually aluminium so you will only get one chance at bending them.

Hi Richard

Thank you for your reply. Yeh, using a jig in the way you have described sounds good. I'll try that. I'll also add to that a suggestion from other members of the forum which is to soften the brass with a blow torch to make it easier to bend. You're right in that absolute perfection is not a requirement but in my previous effort I thought my two rods weren't close enough in shape. I'm sure with the jig they will come out very satisfactory.

01/02/2021 17:28:37
Posted by ashley needham on 31/01/2021 18:37:57:

WB. I would think some sort of tool to use as a press, in a vice might do. Also, the brass needs to be annealed by a blowtorch regularly to keep it malleable. Or you could try bending two pieces at the same time....a vice is a must here of course.

Alternatively could you make a crank by fabrication....using brass side webs and drilling holes and soldering perhaps?

Ashley

Thank you Ashley. I like the idea of using heat to soften the brass to make bending easier.

Unfortunately, I don't understand what you mean by making a crank by fabrication nor what is side webs. My fault as I'm not an engineer. If you tell me though then I will learn. I'm learning more all the time about building model boats, the tools and electronics thanks to the kind guys on this site who are so generous of their time and sharing their knowledge.

31/01/2021 16:11:13

Hi,

Can anybody advice me on how to bend brass rods to make a crankshaft for a model boat? I have two 5mm brass rods of 12 inch length and I wish to bend them so that they are identical. Previous efforts to bend metal rods of this size using only my hands when the rod is held in a vice are error prone. Whilst I managed to get similar shaped crankshafts it was obvious they weren't identically shaped and getting them to be so is important. There has to be an industrial way with all its accuracy to enable modellers to bend brass rods which might mean using some special tool or other. Can anybody advise me please?

P.S. the crankshafts are to go in a model canoe as per plan in Model Boats October 2016 called Waddler and built by Glynn Guest. There is a wooden paddle fitted on each crankshaft. Guest used metal knitting needles for the crankshafts which are great materials to use but if you can't bend them to be identical or near to identical the first time, like happened to me, the needles won't stand too much bending and shaping before they snap.

Thread: Prolux S-5009 servo
31/01/2021 15:46:37

Many thanks for the information Malcolm. I do have horns for the servo and sail arm. I don't have a sail to fit to my yacht yet but I will make a copy of your instructions above and keep them for when I come round to attach the sail to the servo arm.

30/01/2021 13:05:34

Hi Malcolm, thank you for posting with that useful information. Now you mention it I remember seeing horns (not necessarily with the servo I mention) and should still be somewhere in my possession. I will look through my spare boxes. I will let you know when I find anything and see if I have any that fit the said servo and sail arm.

28/01/2021 17:21:16

Hi,

I'm building my first model yacht as per a plan in Model Boats magazine from a few years back. The R/C items in the plan are not prescriptive and it can be left to each modeller decide what their own preferences are or go by what they can obtain. I have a Prolux S-5009 servo and sail arm. However, it is clear that the arm will not fit directly onto the servo and therefore needs some item to fit between them. The sail arm has holes to fit the four small screws that comes with it but there are no holes in the servo to fit these into. Can anybody advise me please on what I need to complete this fixture?

Thanks, Haydn.

Thread: Interior photos with a mini camera
09/07/2013 23:02:13

Dear David

I agree with Andy, yes, those photos make me think I'm looking at a real hanger - wawh! I'm glad that you have posted those photos, for I know now it can be done, and it inspires me. Did you publish any more of your interior shots of models in MB? And can I see any interior pictures online or anywhere else taken by the National Maritime Museum?

05/07/2013 22:46:55

Has anyone ever built a quite detailed interior for their model boat only for much of it to be hidden away when the deck and cabin are in place? If that was the case then you might think 'well, what was the point of going into so much work if nobody can see it'. True, but what if you could stick a small camera inside and take photos? That is what I'd like to do, but I'm looking for the right type of camera, which has to be quite small, and also some kind of shutter relase on a remote control as i can't put my hand inside the small space. I have built a yacht measuring 33 inches long by 9 inches wide. Although not a small model the size of the door is too small for my hand and wrist to pass through and hold a camera inside. Can anybody recommend a small camera system for interior shots of model boats? It would help if there was lighting inside, as flashlight in the dark can create too much contrast.

Thread: Goblin
08/05/2013 08:58:38

Above, I enclose photos of Goblin's bathroom suite and kitchen fittings.

Sorry, this message is down here twice ; I thought the posting had gone elsewhere in the forum after I posted it the first time and didn't see it underneath the photos. So I retyped and posted it again. Instead I'd failed to see that my first posting had rolled over onto the second page. Now I don't seem to be able to delete it.

Edited By Who Boot on 08/05/2013 09:09:42

08/05/2013 08:56:35

I enclose photos of Goblin's kitchen furniture and bathroom suite, before painting.

08/05/2013 08:55:38
Posted by Who Boot on 08/05/2013 08:54:48:

Bathroom suite in GoblinKitchen furniture to put in Goblin

08/05/2013 08:54:48

Bathroom suite in GoblinKitchen furniture to put in Goblin

08/04/2013 23:27:55

Cabin fittedClose up of mast support tubeGoblin in the dry bathHi Wraith Leader

Hi have painted sanding sealer on the hull to water proof it and given the boat a bath test. It is not completed but I thought a bath test now would give me an indication of how well balanced she is, as well as testing her for waterproofness. I was very pleased as she passed both these tests. She was floating a bit high in the water but this was good as it leaves ample room for the weight of more fittings and equipment to be installed. Here are photos of the mast support plastic tube, and the bath test. When the water receded down the plug hole the fins acted as a stand when she stood on the dry.

Edited By Who Boot on 08/04/2013 23:35:49

23/03/2013 16:37:50

imgp2290.jpgimgp2287.jpgimgp2286.jpgHere are some photos of how my build has gone so far. My Goblin measurs 33 inches in length, 9 inches in width, and stands 12 inches from the ground. Haydn.

30/01/2013 22:34:36

I have started on the Goblin sailing yacht and have now reached the same stage of build as that by another forum user, Peter Havens, as he shows in his photo of Goblin posted on this forum in 2009.

The plan is from MM and was designed by GG, and i like the design a lot. I think the design is simple and easy to build and, whilst it looks like a yacht, it has a character that sets it apart from looking exactly like a real yacht. There is something a little quirky but endearing about it.

I have enlarged my Goblin by about 30%: in the original plan the length was 24 1/2 inches, mine is 32 inches ; the beam was originally 7 1/2 inches, mine is 9 inches ; the original draft was 5 inches, mine is 6 1/2 inches. I haven't come round to starting the mast and sails yet and as they were noted as 28 inches high in the plan then I guess that with my enlarged version of Goblin if the sails are to grow proportionaly, they will be about 9 inches taller.

Before I come to that I need to do the fins, and this is where i would like to ask the opinion of any readers about a certain idea of mine. I wish to change from a single fin to that of a twin fin. The reason being is that they will act as a stand for the yacht when its on 'land' and save building an actual stand. More importantly I wish to detail the interior of the cabin. A single fin extending inside the hull for purposes of strength as per plan will get in the way of detailing the cabin. The twin fin design would also have to extend into the inside of the hull but as they will be more to the side I can build a detailed cabin between the two fins.

Do you think that the twin fins can afford to be shorter than a single fin? On real boats they appear to be shorter. One advantage of real boats using the twin fin (or bilge fins as they are also called) over their single fin counterpart is that they can sail in shallower waters (as well as stand unaided when the sea is out). However, one disadvantage is that they can be more susceptible to leeward motion than boats with a single fin which lies deeper in the water, if they sail in the open seas. Hence most bilge fin boats are sailed close to shore. On my enlarged plan the single fin measures 12 inches below the hull but am wondering how shorter should the twin fins be? Like the real boats having them shorter would enable me to sail Goblin in shallower waters.

I have quite an ambitious idea for my Goblin to include R/C control for the sails, something not in the original plan, and something I haven't tried before, and to have lights and sound added to what is to be a pleasure boat, including figures of about 1/12 scale seated in the well (also a modification from the plan).

Thread: Creating sails
22/11/2012 14:16:13

Thank you to everybody who replied. I will look for an old hankerchief (a clean one) and spray it with starch and thread it to the mast as per suggestions.

What a brilliant looking model you have in the Great Eastern, Bob.

21/11/2012 00:20:25

Hi

I wonder if anybody would be able to suggest suitable ways of creating sails that are wrapped up and tied around their masts? I have built a model of a paddle steamer that had sails as alternative means for mobility if it was not using steam. On my model, however, the sails will not be used and will be clinging around the mast. If you were to look at the cover of the book called Confederate blockade runner 1861-65 you'll see what i mean (Just type it on the Internet to see). I'm modelling a blockade runner from the American Civil War.

I tried using tissue paper soaked in glue to creat the sails, let it dry and then paint it. But it turned out not very good. There were too many creases and folds in the tissue after it had dried. Maybe I should use real cloth which is quite thin. I wonder if anybody has any ideas please?

Thread: Creating railings from scratch
15/06/2012 23:10:19

Hi Paul

I have been searching round several hardware stores in my area looking for split pins. I found plenty but they were all too big for the scale I want, so I didn't buy any. If they were merely too long then I could have cut them down to the right size, but they were also too thick by enough margine so that if I'd put them in my 1/72 scale model they would have looked out of scale. The store staff said that smaller split pins were made but they didn't stock them nor did they know where I could buy them. For my model I'm looking for a size of 15mm, that would come up to the chest of a 1/72 figure. Do you know whether split pins are made that small?

Thread: Sprocket fastners
13/06/2012 20:33:45

Hi Bob

I am returning to this topic and would like to refer to your thread. Can you tell me please what are the fastners either side of the sprockets called, the top one has a screw sticking out of it presumably to tighten it. Did these come with the sprocket as a set or were they obtained seperately? I ask because i'm looking for suitable fastners that will hold my gear wheel and paddles to their shaft. Would you call these grup screws?

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