Here is a list of all the postings Gareth Jones has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A class yacht - Serica II|
Thanks very much for another picture of the original Serica. It looks like a typical day at Fleetwood, strong winds and big waves and Serica heeled over despite wearing a very small suit of sails. Norman Hatfield obviously got around the country with his A class model, no mean task in the 1950's. I wonder whether he drove up from London or got the train. No motorways in those days so either would be a bit of a challenge with a 7 foot long 60 lb boat to shift.
I spent a few hours last week working out where the vane pintle should be fitted. The vane I am planning to use for Serica II was bought from John Gale's daughter, along with the hull. It was made by Ken Corby, in stainless steel and is a fine example of the vane makers craft - it cost significantly more than the hull.
The vane is connected to the rudder by a pin which can be moved along a slot to vary the gear ratio between vane movement and rudder movement. He is a picture of a similar but smaller vane (not by Corby) on Elizabeth's Marblehead Pond Princess. In this case the vane, which came with the yacht, is mounted about 85 mm behind the rudder pivot.
According to Vic Smeed, in his book Model Yachting, the gear ratio should be variable from 1:1 to 3:1, i.e. in 'low gear' 3 degrees of vane deflection from neutral gives 1 degree of rudder movement in the opposite direction. On the Corby vane, with the pin closest to the vane, its effective radius about the vane pintle is 32 mm. For a 3:1 ratio that would mean the effective radius of the rudder lever would be 96 mm and so the pivot points of rudder and vane should be 128 mm apart. In the high 1:1 ratio, the radius of the vane is 64 mm and the rudder lever radius would also be 64 mm, gain making 128 mm apart, which is consistent and sensible.
Here is a picture of the Corby vane fitted to Serica, although the pintle is only held on with Blutack.
Having established the basic dimensions required I can now start to think about making the linkage that attaches to the rudder pivot. I suspect that the design dimension for the installation was actually 5 inches, bearing in mind the limited amount of metrication in the UK during the 1950's. Applying the same logic to Pond Princess's vane suggests the ideal position would really be 100 mm (4 inches) aft of the rudder but I suspect the original builder thought this might be a bit too close to the end of the hull and compromised.
There has been quite a bit of building also gone on over the last week but more of that later. At the moment I am banned from the workshop as its in paint shop mode for Elizabeth's current project.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 15/04/2017 20:45:28
|Thread: Painting large models|
My wife and I share a workshop which was created by converting about 70% of the length of our garage. The end nearest the up and over door is used for storing a few large boat boxes, a couple of Workmates, the lawnmower and a few garden tools. We normally use this end space for painting models, either with the door open or closed.
At the moment Elizabeth is restoring a 10 rater for a chap in Derby. The hull is just under 6 feet long and too big to paint in the end of the garage. It was primed outside a few weeks ago but working outside is very weather dependent, needing a calm warm day, which seem to be few and far between, particularly in winter.
The workshop would be big enough but we don't want paint drifting everywhere. This is a recurring problem and we have been considering various options ranging from extending the garage to buying a gazebo. However another idea occurred to me couple of weeks ago and I went out and bought a couple of heavy duty dust sheets from Screwfix. These have been hung from the ceiling using large screw hooks at 3 foot intervals, in conjunction with eyelets in the dust sheets.
The system has had its first trial tonight and seems to work very well. The sheets are hung behind the lights so the illumination is good and even. One of the problems of working in the end of the garage in daylight is the contrast between the inside facing and outside facing parts of a model, especially in bright sunlight. At the moment ventilation is only by opening the internal and up and over doors but I plan to improvise something using the dust extractor we use for the scroll saw and disc sander. Here are a few pictures of the paint shop in action.
The 'Workmate' in use is the JCB variety and comes in very useful for jobs like this because it can be set to a wide range of working heights.
|Thread: Lady Betty|
The location of your post is fine. Don't worry too much about that aspect, if a post is really in the wrong place, Colin Bishop will step in and move it. (He's the moderator for the site)
Quite a lot of pond yachts were given ladies names in honour of wives, girlfriends and probably mistresses. What the origin of Lady Betty is I have no idea, but the articles mentioned by Tony Hadley might give you a clue.
|Thread: A class yacht - Serica II|
The next step was to make the deck horses from some 2.5 mm diameter stainless steel rod silver soldered into brass feet.
Since its a nice warm sunny day today I decided to start attaching the jib rack, shroud plates and some of the other fittings. The hull is now starting to look less bare.
The new paint for the keel is still not a very good match for the rest of the hull as its still a bit too white. The latest attempt is Rover white diamond from Halfords which looked a closer match than our standard Appliance white. We could not see anything in the shop that looked a better match, based on the colours on the top of the tins, so I think I am going to leave it for the time being and hope it yellows with age.
The final picture shows there is also an ever so small kink at the point where the front of the keel meets the hull. I plan to have a look at this the next time I have the hull upside down and see whether I need to fair the two parts in together a bit better.
The next job will either be the jib and its fittings or the rudder/vane connecting mechanism, depending on how the fancy takes me next week. Sailing by the end of the month is still a possibility but my plans might be scuppered as there is now also a possibility I may be returning to work again - not that I want to work in the summer but needs must and it will be an interesting job.
That looks a very useful sized space for a workshop, although it looks a bit dark at the moment. Is it located in a cellar or basement? It looks like you might need to add a few extra light fittings. Would you be able to do that yourself or do the building rules and regulations in Belgium prohibit that sort of thing. The electrical regulations were tightened up here some years ago so in the UK you are supposed to engage a competent qualified electrician to do that sort of thing nowadays. I dont think we have got as strict as some places. We have some friends who bought a flat in Switzerland and were very surprised to get a visit from a local council (or maybe canton) who had come round to check their fire extinguishers were within their inspection and maintenance time limits. Of course they also had to pay for the privilege of this service.
Serica has progressed a bit further, the main boom gooseneck and kicker strap are complete, as are ll the other fittings on the boom.
The top bearing is a piece of 3/8 inch square section brass bar drilled 3 mm in two planes.
The bottom bearing is similar but the brass bar had to be machined down to fit into the fork end of the turnbuckle adjuster.
I have made one of these before for a large yacht and in that case I cut down the bar by sawing a piece out from each side and then filing it to size. This time I decided to have a go at machining it on my trusty pillar drill which was impersonating a milling machine for the day.. I clamped the block in a vice and used a router tool to mill away the surplus material. I made a saw cut first to give me a straight edge to cut up to. I fitted a bolt to the drill to act as a simple adjustable stop to set the depth of cut. The vice was slowly moved across the face of the cutter by hand, taking a few mm off each time.
I could only mill off a small section each time but it provided a neat and accurate way of reducing the thickness of the block. The process was repeated on the other side to give me a Tee section for the lower hinge.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 09/04/2017 16:17:31
First of all let me correct a silly mistake I made in the last posting. In the second paragraph I was taking about getting the length of the strap correct and I should have said the distance between the two marks for the right angle bends is the CIRCUMFERENCE of the mast + 1 mm, not the diameter +1 mm.
I have subsequently made a few more bits. Still working my way up the mast, here is the lower attachment for the upper set of shrouds and the spreader for the two upper shrouds. I will insert a couple of split pins in the ends of the tubes to hold the wires.
Next the backstay crane which attaches to the wooden extension on the top of the aluminium mast. There is a small hole drilled in the outer end of the stainless steel rod and a short sawcut to allow the backstay to be located in the crane. The top section of the backstay will be stranded wire, the rest of it will be Dyneema cord. The lug with two holes is the hoist point for the mainsail halyard.
The final mast fitting to make is the top strap with the eyes for the forestay and backstay but that is awaiting a bit of brass tube purchased on ebay for that purpose.
The main boom has been planed down to shape and size from a piece of pine dowel and, along with the top of the mast has been stained ready for varnishing.
The keel is finished and painted but is a rather glaring white in contrast to the hull which is a slightly warmer creamier colour. I plan to give the keel a couple of coats of varnish to try and get a better match.
The next job when the brass tube arrives is the top mast fitting and the main and jib boom fittings and then the kicking strap and deck horses. The final parts to make are the rudder lever and drive connection between the rudder and vane gear.. At that point, pretty well all the parts are made, and its a matter of putting it all together.
My target date is the northern VMYG meeting in Cleethorpes at the end of this month, but the initial sailing trials will probably be with a set of sails borrowed from one of Elizabeth's 10 raters, as I don't expect to get the pukka set until mid May. The 10 rater sails will be a bit smaller in area, but they are about the right height.
Will Serica II make it on to the water before Banjoman's Moonbeam I wonder?
My first attempt at a mast fitting was one of the two straps that attach the boom and kicking strap. It was not a great success but served its purpose as practice and a prototype.
After several more practice pieces I evolved a process for making the bits the right size and rather more neatly. The first problem is to get the strap the right length and the distance between the two right angles correct. By trial and error I found that it was best to make the two flanges 10 mm to start with and the distance between them equal to the tube diameter plus 1 mm.
Here is an example marked out to fit on the 3/4 inch (19 mm) tube that the mast is made from.
The two ends are placed in a vice, in turn and bent up 90 degrees, with the line aligned along the top edge of the vice. Here is the result.
The trick is then to bend the strap around a tube, clamping it with pliers so that the bend starts right from each end, as shown below.
Each end is bent the same way and then the whole strap wrapped around the tube and clamped in a vice by the end flanges, pulling it tight round the tube, with the result as shown below.
If everything works out ok the strap should just wrap around the mast with a gap of about 1 mm to allow it to be clamped by two 3 mm screws. I soldered a piece of 6 mm x 3 mm brass strip to one of the flanges, drilled and tapped it 3 mm to take the screws.
These formed the basis of all the mast fittings, some of which have eyes for shrouds and various other bits attached as shown here, working up from the bottom of the mast. Here are the mounts for the kicking strap and main boom. The two extra sets of lugs on the upper strap are to mount a spinnaker pole, not something I have ever done before but I thought I would make provision while I am at it. As you can see, my silver soldering has improved considerably.
The next pair up are the attachments for the lower shrouds and jib hoist.
There are another 4 fittings to make but I decided to take a break at this point and do something different so I made the pintle mount for the vane gear. The pintle itself needs to be cut to length and the top pointed to locate in the bearing recess in the vane pivot. It will be retained in the mount by a locknut.
Finally, a picture courtesy of Anthony Warren of the Vintage Model Yacht Group showing the hull of Serica II after John Gale had finished carving the inner side of the hull, just prior to fitting the deck. Its a very useful picture as it gives me an indication of where all the hard points are under the deck.
This week has mainly been spent reducing bits of brass strip to scrap and filings. However I have now mastered the art of making the mast fittings and silver soldering the bits together so I have made some progress.
First the easy bit, although not quite as straightforward as I expected. I have spent a lot of time searching for some brass Tee section to make the shroud plates and jib rack. Unfortunately pretty well all that's available is either too small or too big. I did get some 6 mm x 6 mm from the 4D model shop some years ago but they don't stock it now and it would be a bit small for Serica. There is some 8 mm x 8 mm available from Modulor in Germany but the postage is expensive. Eventually I found some brass curtain track advertised. I thought it was an I section and big enough to cut in half to get 2 lengths of T section. 8mm x 8 mm. Unfortunately one end has an extra small T section on to to suspend it, so I could only use one side of the length, but there is plenty for Serica.
I have made the shroud plates as shown in the photo below
the jib rack
and assorted deck eyes
The next step is the mast fittings which is where all the scrap was created.
The tricky calculations have now been completed for Serica and led to a tricky problem to solve. All the recognised racing yacht classes have a set of rules to ensure that all the yachts in the class are evenly matched. In some cases, such as Marbleheads the basic rules are quite simple, it has maximum hull length of 50 inches and a maximum sail area of 800 square inches, other than that pretty well anything goes and there is lots of scope for design development. Other classes such as the International One Metre are extremely prescriptive with virtually every aspect of the yacht hull and its rig defined in the rules. The A class falls somewhere in between and is based on a formula for a full sized 6 metre yacht scaled 1:6. This does not mean that the A class is one metre long, but when you feed in waterline length, sail area and displacement into the formula, you end up with a figure of 1 metre maximum, or if you work in imperial units 39.37 inches.
For the yacht to be competitive, you need to get as close to the class rule as possible, so when I fed in my waterline length, approx 59 inches, displacement, approx 1620 cubic inches based on a weight of 58.5 lbs, the formula indicates I can fit approximately. 1300 sq inches of sail area.
However the problem is there are also a number of other limitations which must be met or you suffer a penalty on the rating. For example draught must not exceed (waterline length x 0.16) + 3.5 inches. Any excess of draught must be multiplied by 3 and added to the rating and Serica was about 0.25 inches over the limit. Also the freeboard was under the limit by about 0.1 inch which also resulted in a penalty. These two parameters were going to cost Serica about 100 sq inches of sail. The challenge was to reduce the draught and increase the freeboard in order to avoid the penalties, but with the minimum reduction in displacement (effectively total weight) as reducing displacement would also cost me sail area.
I took Serica back to the pond and rechecked the waterline length, draught and freeboard with various amounts of ballast to give me weights of 54.5 lb, 56.5 lb and 58.5 lb.
I worked out that if I removed about 0.2 inches from the bottom of the keel it would reduce the weight by about 1.4 lbs. The yacht would float about 0.1 inches higher because of the reduced weight and the draught would be reduced by 0.3 inches in total. This should be enough to avoid the penalties so I then had to come up with a neat way of removing the material from the bottom of the keel, a mixture of lead and wood. Sawing and filing would be tedious and messy. A milling machine would be ideal but I don't have one. However I have got a router and I reckoned that would be able to cope with machining away the lead provided the cuts were not too deep.
The first job was to remove the rear keel bolt or the router would end up hitting the retaining nut. A bit of heat from a blowlamp on the bottom softened the Araldite and it tapped out OK with a bit of persuasion from a light hammer and a hardwood drift. I managed to mount the keel in my workmate, using a couple of pieces of stout timber to support the weight on the cross bars underneath. The keel was clamped in the jaws and a couple of pieces of 1 inch thick timber provided a working base for the router.
The router made light work of the whole job and gave a very neat flat surface.
The corners have been rounded off, rear keel bolt refitted and the keel bolt hole refilled and the keel is now ready for a final coat of primer before getting a few coats of gloss white.
I have now started to make the mast, booms and deck fittings. The main part of the mast is 3/4 inch aluminium tube but the longest length available was 2 metres so the top section has been planed from a piece of pine dowel, tapering to approximately 1/2 inch at the top. The full length of the mast is approximately 8 feet. Today's job has been a start on the mast fittings to attach the shrouds and boom. However the first couple of attempts were not that successful and my initial attempt at silver soldering left something to be desired. However I am making progress and once I achieve something usable I will illustrate how it was done.
The sails have been ordered from Nylet so I have 8 weeks to get everything finished before they arrive, hopefully in time for the CADMA show at Doncaster where we will be hosting a vintage model yacht group stand and Serica will be centre stage.
As Ashley mentioned recently we were invited to visit the hallowed portals of his shed last weekend. It was quite amazing, the way the boxes just kept on coming off the shelves, each one revealing a new and different model. The variety, ingenuity and build quality was excellent, including his latest foray into the world of vac-forming. We were sworn to secrecy so I can't show you any pictures inside the shed but I can show a couple from the other reason we went down south, to see some vintage A class yacht racing at Hampton Court. Here are a couple of photos of a pair of vane steered models beating their way along the pond in fresh breeze.
As you can see its a waders on job to launch and recover at the Rick pond so manhandling a 55 lb plus yacht while your feet are sinking and sliding on the mud is not for the fainthearted.
You are really annoying my wife. She thought she had done a good job on her Moonbeam but yours it totally outclassing it, especially the sails which are a real work of art.
|Thread: A class yacht - Serica II|
The next job was to float Serica in the pond to check that the keel joint is watertight and to measure the waterline length which will then allow me to calculate the permitted sail area. I plan to order the sails from Nylet but these will take some time to arrive because they will have to be purpose made so I want to get the required size defined as soon as possible so I can send the information to get a quotation for the price and delivery.
I weighed the hull, complete with radio gear, but no battery on two sets of bathroom scales and got an average weight of 55.4 lbs. I weighed the rig of a 10 rater that Elizabeth owns which gave me an estimate of about 2 lbs for the mast, booms and sails on Serica. Including the weight of the hatch, battery, vane and deck fittings I reckon Serica will weigh about 58 lbs in vane configuration and 59 lbs in radio control mode. I made up the difference in weights with some ballast, namely three tins of baked beans and a bit of lead sheet.
Measuring the waterline length is a bit tricky in a pond so I came up with a cunning plan using masking tape and a rubber band. I put a piece of masking tape along the bottom centre line where the water line was expected to cross. The rubber band can be moved back and forth while the boat is in the water until it just sits at the waterline point at the front and back. Here is the picture showing the back end arrangement, the front is similar.
Serica is too big to fit in our garden pond/test tank so it was off to Goole for the next step.
When both rubber bands are correctly positioned the boat is lifted out and the lines marked on the masking tape in pencil. I repeated the exercise with a tin of baked beans removed which gave me waterline lengths of 59.125 in radio configuration and 58.875 in vane configuration (to the nearest 1/8 of an inch, not the nearest thou) Its a bit tricky to measure the straight line distance between the two marks because of the bulge in the hull in between but I used a straight piece of timber with a pair of set squares alongside the hull to get the accurate water line length measurement.
Here is a final picture of Serica in the pond with the mast fitted to give an idea of scale - big isn't it.
I think this is the first time the hull has been in the water in the 60 or so years since it was built and the really good news is there were no leaks - but it is bl**dy heavy to lift in and out of the water. The next job is to calculate the sail area, stand by for some tricky mathematics.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 11/03/2017 20:01:59
Serica will be a dual control model. It was designed in the days when free sailing with vane steering was the norm and this will be an option. However for practical purposes, there are very few venues suited to that nowadays so radio control of the sails and rudder has to be an alternative option. The sail winch and rudder servo have to be fitted discretely to preserve the vintage appearance of the yacht. I will be using a Graupner drum type sail winch with a closed loop inside the hull. This is built up as an assembly on the bench and then slid in through the single hole in the deck, which is only six inches be three. However given the space inside the hull, its surprising what can be manoeuvred in. Here is Serica's winch, partially made up, still to be fitted with the cord loop to which the sail sheets attach. The assembly is attached to the two keel bolts by the aluminium angles.
Here is another view showing the sail winch itself, must get some longer screw though, as there is not the regulation 1.5 threads showing through the stiffnuts.
Normally I fit the rudder servo inside the hatch at the aft end with the servo arm on top and a connection back to the rudder post by a closed loop pair of wire cables. This would not be easy on Serica as the hatch cover is very thin and inset into a thin coaming on the deck. I decided on an alternative design with the rudder servo turned through 90 degrees and mounted aft of the hatch. The control wires will pass through a pair of brass tubes to guide them round the 90 degree bend. Here is the existing hatch, it was beautifully made by John Gale and I did not want to replace it or marmalise it too much.
Here is the rudder servo installation mounted on a ply plate attached to the rear of the access hatch opening. It needs to be removed before the sail winch can be installed or removed but its only held in by two brass screws at the top.
I need to cut a couple of slots in the coaming for the brass tubes to fit in so the hatch will seat properly in place. If the yacht is sailed on the vane I can remove the rudder servo assembly by removing the top two screws and blank the slots in the coaming with a bit of rubber cut from a length of O ring material.
Before fitting the keel I needed to make a stand for Serica as none of our existing ones is big enough. About 3 years ago I bought a job lot of 12 pieces of Sapele, 20 mm x 50 mm x 1200 mm and have made about half a dozen stands so far, all to the same basic design. Serica's will be the last one as I have now used up my supply of timber. Here is Serica's stand in our back garden, ready for its first use.
Thank you Mattias, another year older, probably no wiser but at least I am still here so I can't complain.
The upstairs bathroom and shower are now full operational again so I have been able to give Serica a bit of attention over the last week or so.
Drilling the keel to take the bolts was a bit time consuming as the lead grabs the drill and it is necessary to keep pulling it out to clear it. I also found my specially purchased longer drill bit was still not long enough to go all the way through from one side so I had to drill from both sides. Fortunately, with a bit of care the holes lined up reasonably well, somewhere in the middle of the keel.
I have counter-bored the bottom of the keel to accommodate the nuts and washers on the bottom of the keel bolts. I used a flat wood bit to get a flat bottom to the countersunk section. To guide the drill bit I tapped a piece of 8 mm dowel into the bolt holes first.
The keel has now been sanded and filled to shape and give a covering of fine glass cloth and two coats of Z poxy. That has all been rubbed down, filled and primed and is now ready for its final finishing coat of paint. There is just a bit of tidying up to do at the front top corner which is quite pointed and prone to damage, as I found when I caught it on the workshop door while carrying it out to trial fit it on the hull. Its a heavy chunk of stuff to carry around.
The keel bolts are sealed in two places. At the top, where they enter the bottom of the hull there is a small O ring and the holes in the hull have been chamfered/countersunk slightly to accommodate it.
On the inside of the hull there is a wooden packing piece which spaces the metal handle away from the bottom of the hull. The packing pieces sit on a cross beam on the bottom of the hull and between the two is a nitrile rubber gasket cut from a spare piece of pond liner. The hole in the gasket was cut undersize so it seals around the brass keel bolts.
The handle is a piece of 20 mm square aluminium tube with rounded corners that we found in the garage when we moved into this house about 30 years ago. I knew it would come in handy one day and I still have about 18 inches left for another job, whatever that might be. Threading the 8 mm brass keel bolts was much easier than the stainless steel I tried originally, my cheap dies just made no impression at all.
|Thread: Model Yachting: Fairwind Competition in the North West|
The very generous Bob Abell mentioned your post when we were having a cup of tea in his lounge earlier today. The MYA handbook dropped through my letterbox yesterday and I checked the clubs listing to see if there were any near you that race 36R class yachts. The nearest is apparently the Alexandra MYC based at Sykes Reservoir, Edgeley, Stockport, SK3 9RQ who also list IOM. The contact is given as Dave Hadfield 0161 4856371
Llandudno MYC and Fleetwood MYC also list 36R yachts but that would be a bit more than 35 miles I guess Llandudno is mainly, if not completely, vane 36 racing
Alas, none of the clubs in the north of England list Fairwinds in their racing fleets.
P.S. Bob, Pocahontas and Britannia arrived safely in their new home a couple of hours ago - thanks very much.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 26/02/2017 18:53:20
|Thread: A class yacht - Serica II|
Rebuilding our upstairs shower has progressed quite well, all the old tiles and plasterboard have been stripped out, Aquaboard fitted in its place and I was about to start re-tiling today when I discovered the new tiles are too big to fit on my tile cutter. As its also my birthday today I was allowed a day off and made a bit more progress on Serica. The new keel has been trial fitted and faired in to the profile of the hull. There is still some sanding and filling to do before it will be ready for painting.
The stainless steel rod for the keel bolts proved too tough for my die when trying to cut the 8 mm thread. I have ordered some 8 mm brass rod as a replacement.
My winter contract has come to a rather premature end this year, two months early, so I will have a longer summer holiday to get on with some boat building and sailing.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 19/02/2017 17:19:11
Serica's keel has progressed a bit further with the upper transition piece now screwed,but not yet glued to the bottom section. Its now ready for the final shaping, sanding and drilling for the keel bolts.
Unfortunately it will have to be parked for a few weeks as a priority DIY job has come along. Our upstairs shower has transformed itself into a 2 person device but unfortunately the second person has to stand downstairs in the living room. A major dry-lining, and re-tiling job has now commenced.
|Thread: Fast. Faster. Fastest?|
Gosh, what a surprise, and I was going to urge Ashley to start stocking up on hardboard.
This looks to be a fascinating technical challenge. I suspect the health and safety aspects could be as challenging as the engineering. How wide is the 20 mile long stretch of water - monitoring the models safe progress could be tricky.
I will watch with interest. - from a safe distance.
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor