Here is a list of all the postings Gareth Jones has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: SS Great Britain on TV|
Here are the photo posting instructions, cut and pasted from the original.
First of all, any pictures you want to post need to be in a format no bigger than 800 x 600 pixels. I use Microsoft Office Picture Manager to reduce the picture size down from whatever the camera takes, to this size. My ancient desktop is still running Vista as an operating system so there may well be other options to use now. I usually save the reformatted pictures on my desktop where i can easily find them.
Log on to the forum as though you were going to add a post to one of the topics.
From the bar across the top of the page click on the Albums tab.
From the options that appear click on Create a photo album
Give the album a name and description
If you want the rest of the world to have access to the album tick the Public box, I think this is usually the default setting.
If you want other people to be able to upload photos to your album tick the Allow member uploads box ( I usually do not allow this)
Finally, for this stage, click on the Create album box.
You now can upload pictures into this album, firstly by clicking on Chose file. This will open your computer files and you need to find the first photo you want to upload. When you have found that file, click on Open and it will appear in the list. Repeat this process for up to 5 photos.
When you have selected your photos select Upload and they will appear on the page. When they have uploaded click on Save changes at the bottom of the list and they will all be there, accessible to anyone from the Albums tab on the top of the normal forum page.
If you want to include one of these photos in your post on the forum, type in any text normally. Then I usually leave one blank line and set the curser to the left hand edge of the page.
In the box above where you type in the text there is a camera icon. Click on that and a new box will appear which lists all your albums.
Click on the appropriate album and the list of all the photos in it will appear.
Click on the one you want and the picture itself will appear on the right of the box.
If that is the correct one, click on OK and it will appear in the right position in your post.
Put in another blank line and then start typing the next bit of text or add another photo.
Best wishes for Christmas and the New Year,
|Thread: Fascinating stuff from the Far East|
When I replied to the chap who sent me the original link I said I am not sure what I want the most, a Jong, a drone or a home in the South China Sea.
Here's the link I referred to above:- **LINK**
Someone from the Vintage Model Yacht Group found out about these chaps a couple of years ago. There are some even better videos of them sailing parallel to the beach in a strong on shore breeze and they really zoom along. I will try and find the links and add them to the thread.
|Thread: Spider J|
Glad you like it Mattias. We sailed Spider J again yesterday in a bit of a breeze, around 10 mph. We were pleasantly surprised how well it sailed, only a slight sideways drift with the wind directly side on and it went quite nicely across the wind and downwind. No tendency to heel over when cross wind. It does not point very high or have the speed or manoeuverability of a modern racing yacht but its not bad for a 100 year old barge design. Unfortunately both times when we sailed at the weekend we were looking more or less directly into a low sun so the photos are not very good but here's another from yesterday.
Ray, the ballast is made up of three groups. There is about 2 lb of lead right at the back, below the propshaft in the form of lead flashing strips along the bottom of the hull between the frames.
There are three blocks each weighing 3 lb made up of lead flashing fixed to plywood plates which also sit right on the bottom, between the frames.
Two of these fit just ahead of the motor, towards the back of the hold.
The third one sits right at the front of the hold and covers the full width of the hull, just in front of the 12V 7ah lead acid battery which goes on the flat ply mount you can see in the picture below..
The normal procedure is to leave these ballast weights fitted unless they need to be removed for access or ease of working in the workshop. The battery is fitted and power switched on for radio checks. The front and rear hatches are then fitted which leaves access to the carrying handle in the middle. If I am launching from a jetty Spider J is normally lifted into the water in this configuration, in which it weighs approx 34 lb.
The next step is to fit 4 additional ballast blocks shared with my trawler Shemarah. These weigh a total of 25 lb and are fitted through the center hatch and sit in the middle of the hull. The center hatch is then fitted and off she goes.
The outboard wording on the label refers to Shemarah where these 4 blocks fit rotated 90 degrees from the position in Spider J
The normal sailing weight for Spider J is therefore about 58 lb, which is quite heavy but it is practical to lift the boat with the handle even at that weight. Its about the same as our A class yacht Serica III.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 19/11/2018 16:39:13
Spider J has progressed slowly over the last few months and this afternoon we took it for it's first proper 'sail' with a trial set of cotton sails. These have been made by Elizabeth to check the fit and allow us to adjust the template before cutting the final set out of the proper brick red material. There was very little wind but since I am not sure of the ballast yet maybe that's no bad thing. Tomorrow we will check again when there is forecast to be a breeze of around 10 mph. Today's outing was quite successful and allowed us to check the ballast was in roughly the right place and the sequence of fitting the ballast and centre hatch with the boat in the water was quite practicable.
|Thread: Help To Identify Yacht|
Its a nice day here back in East Yorkshire, sunny and not too windy so I have taken the promised photos of Ella. She was built to the Kittiwake design in the 1940's but would be quite representative of what your Pocahontas would have been like originally.
For reference the top of the mast stands 62 inches above the deck, the jib boom is 13.5 inches long and the main boom is 22 inches long.
Your Pocahontas is still in the queue for repair of the leak and loose keel weight, maybe it will reach the front this winter. We have sailed Britannia this year but it was a really grey day and the photos would not be worth putting on here. Maybe the weather and photos will be better next time. We hope you are keeping well.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 28/09/2018 13:16:51
One other point I meant to add.
Given your location, and assuming you found the yacht over there, I guess there is a possibility it is an American design rather than a British Pocahontas or Kittiwake. Either way the rigging and size of the mast and spars will be similar. The Marblehead design originated in the USA in the early 1930's. There is a history of the origins of the Marblehead class on the US vintage model yacht group site and there is a link to it here:- **LINK**
Edited By Gareth Jones on 26/09/2018 16:21:55
Edited By Gareth Jones on 26/09/2018 16:22:12
Certainly is a small world, both our kids went to Woldgate but it would have been from about 2000 onwards.
I will sort the photos out in the next couple of days. It may be easiest to send photos of the Littlejohn Kittiwake we have as being more representative of your Marblehead, even though its a different design.
I take it from the reference to 'these shores' that you are no longer in the UK. If you were in the northwest next month I was going to suggest visiting the Blackpool Model Show as we are supporting a Marblehead themed stand for the Vintage Model Yacht Group and there should be a Pocahontas on the stand. What part of East Yorkshire were you from? We live in Bielby near Pocklington.
Elizabeth's Pocahontas is currently in the loft awaiting renovation and it is probably not a good example to use as a basis for restoration as its relatively new and was built with radio control in mind. Here is a picture of the hull.
I will try and sort out a better picture of an older Pocahontas in the next couple of days.
|Thread: Servos only working on channel 1 of receivers|
I think a 6 volt lead acid battery would be much too heavy. A 6 volt pack of 5 AA sized Nimh batteries would be much more appropriate.
|Thread: Help To Identify Yacht|
I think your yacht is most likely to be a Bill Daniels designed Pocahontas, as shown in the lines drawing below.
There is also a possibility it could be a Bert Littlejohn designed Kittiwake from the same era. as shown below.
It can be difficult to differentiate Marbleheads as they are all the same length at nominally 50 inches. However according to the drawings and the two boats that we have (my wife is lucky enough to have one of each) Pocahontas is 9.5 inch beam and Kittiwake is 9 inches. The stem on Pocahontas is more swept back than Kittiwake and looks more like your model. It is possible that your yacht is something else altogether but the above two designs will give you a good guide as it is most probably from that era.
There is an article on building a 'modern' version of Pocahontas in the Sept 1995 issue of Marine Modelling. For Kittiwake you need to go back further, to the |December 1937 edition of Marine Models.
I can post some photos of our two yachts if that will help. Our Pocahontas was kindly donated to Elizabeth by Bob Abell who built it some years ago but was running out of room to store his models.
Just out of curiosity, are you the Paul Skinner who used to be or maybe still is, a Dunlop rep?
|Thread: tea clippers|
On the real vessel, I believe the jib sail sheets were taken to belaying pins fitted in a pin rail around the bulwarks on the right hand side of the bow. That is just based on Lennarth Petersson's book 'Rigging period ship models'. I have looked through our photos of Cutty Sark but can't find any of the area in question but then Cutty Sark was not fitted with any sails and only had the standing rigging when we visited it.
On Elizabeth's model she took all three sheets to a single small eye in the forecastle deck, just behind the capstan, as shown in the attached photo. They are adjusted with small bowsies, which you can see in the picture, but not controlled by a sail winch. If only we had read Neville Wade's articles on square riggers before Elizabeth restored Ariel the we might have done things differently.
I sympathise with your slow progress on the model. I am doing no better with my Humber sloop which has been parked on the workbench again, although I am occasionally doing some small jobs making and painting some of the pulley blocks in the rigging. I have been distracted by work on a 10 rater yacht that we acquired last year and currently fitting the sail winch and rudder servo. As you can see from the picture it had previously suffered a bit of an oddball radio conversion and in the process been fitted with a second deck. It will look lovely when its finished though, a really sleek design by John Lewis called Synergy.
|Thread: Northumbrian Coble|
Nylet do some smaller eyelets with an inside diameter of 1/16 of an inch (1.5 mm nominal), catalogue part numbers N050.0 and N050.1
Frank Parsons catalogue can be found here **LINK**
By the way Norman, it is best not to publish your email address in open view on the forum or you are likely to get all sorts of strange information appearing in you inbox. Its much more preferable to send the information directly to the required recipient by personal message (PM)
Edited By Gareth Jones on 23/07/2018 15:58:48
Edited By Gareth Jones on 23/07/2018 15:59:26
I rebuilt an example of the kit about 8 years ago, having been presented with a model in a similar state to yours. I did not have the original plan but obtained a copy of John Haynes drawing from him at the time. I suspect it shows a lot more detail than the original kit plan but I don't know if it is still available from him. At the time he did his own Elco PT boat kit and also supplied me with lots of detail parts including the guns.
I wrote an article on the rebuild for Model Boats magazine which was published in September 2010. It is still available on the Forum if you are a subscriber and search under PT 602. There is lots of information on the web about Elco 80 foot PT boats - Google is your friendly assistant.
Here is a photo of the completed model
|Thread: Vane Sailing|
I think the club does still exist but I understand they are having problems with the boating lake on the promenade at West Shore. It tends to get filled up with sand, washed or blown off the adjacent beach and they are having great difficulty getting the local authority to maintain it. Its a great pity as its a lovely location for vane sailing.
He's fine. We met up in the Isle of Man for the Manx MBC Manannan festival at the end of June. He is still building model boats and yachts and tinkering with Arduino type stuff.
There are several designs available through Sarik Hobbies. Plans reference MAR 2863, MM 398, MM 631 and MM 1115. MAR 2863 shows details of both Braine and vane steering mechanisms with dimensioned drawings. I have not seen the other drawings so I don't know how detailed they are or what type of vane gear mechanism they describe.
Graham Reeves designed the Ezi-build vane gear which is easy to make and works effectively - I know because I made one for a 36R yacht. Full details are available on the Llandudno model yacht club site here:-**LINK**
Used examples of vane gear occasionally appear on Ebay in widely varying condition and at widely varying prices.
|Thread: Spider J|
There is some silver soldering in the winches but there is also a bit of soft soldering as well. However the winches will be painted rather than blackened so there should be no problems.
The latest step has been making the mast hoops that attach the mainsail luff to the mast. They have been made pretty well the same way that full sized ones are made. I started with lengths of 1 mm ply, about 5 mm wide. Each end is chamfered over a length of about 10 mm, one end on one side, the other on the other side.
Each length is boiled in a pan part full of water for a few minutes and then wrapped around a piece of pipe, slightly smaller than the required finished finished diameter and then clamped in place.
They are left to cool and dry and then wrapped around a mandrel which will give the required finished diameter. in this case 25 mm outside diam with two complete turns of the strip. I had to make a few samples and trial and error led to the right starting length of the strips and diameter of the mandrel. The mandrel has a length of clear tape around it to prevent the hoop sticking to it.
Thin super glue is dribbled into the edge of the hoop where the two scarphed ends overlap. When it has dried, the hoop is pushed off the mandrel and glue dribbled all around its circumference on each edge so it becomes a solid hoop. You then have to try and prize it off your fingers with minimal loss of skin where it's stuck to your hand.
When dry, the edges of each hoop are sanded on the disc sander to a uniform thickness of 4 mm, being careful to avoid sanding the ends of your fingers or thumb on the disc. Next the inner and outer faces were lightly sanded with a piece of 180 grade abrasive paper. When they were all made they were soaked in dark oak wood dye and allowed to dry.
They have to be fitted over the section at the foot of the mast which is about 17 mm square. The chosen size gave a tight fit but by chamfering the corners of the mast slightly they could all be pushed on and up to the main round section of the mast. The collar that supports the main boom was also fitted at this stage.
The next job has been to make an initial pattern for the sails from some brown paper. I am reasonably happy with that now so the brown paper pattern with its required corrections will be transferred onto some of my wife's 'proper' dressmaking pattern paper before marking and cutting out the sails.
I have some sailcloth in a suitable tan colour as used on Humber sloops. For some reason Humber sloop sails were tan coloured but keels were white or cream (and square rigged). I bought the last piece of tan coloured material that Keith Jewell at Modelling Timbers had in stock about 3 years ago, especially for this project, but I don't think I have enough spare for any major mistakes. However Elizabeth plans to make a prototype set from some spare scrap material first so hopefully there won't be any errors in the final set. We are going to follow Banjoman's process as used on his Moonbeam for hemming and false tabling the edges and sewing on the bolt ropes.
After living with a working name of Spider J for the last three years or so we have now decided on the final name for the sloop (and also a name for the keel when it is built). The model is based on the hull drawings of Spider T but it is really a generic Sheffield sized sloop so I did not want it to be too closely allied to that particular vessel. I am going to keep you guessing what the name will be for the time being. However if you know the name of some of Elizabeth's yachts, it will give you a clue.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 07/07/2018 17:13:50
Edited By Gareth Jones on 07/07/2018 17:15:24
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