Here is a list of all the postings Gareth Jones has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lockdown Project|
Glad I managed to find the correct drawing.
With regard to fixing the keel weight Araldite will be fine, just clear out any loose material first. There are usually one or two bolts or pins to locate the weight on to the keel.
For a sailwinch and rudder servo installation there are lots of ways of doing it. We usually use a drum type sailwinch with a closed loop line under the deck, to which the sail sheets attach. The pictures below show a couple of installations, one in China Boy which has a self contained winch assembly that can be removed and inserted through a central hatch. The other in Phaedra shows a separate centrally mounted winch with a return pulley at the aft end..I have done a few articles on radio control for vintage yachts for the Turning Pole, which is the Journal of the Vintage Model Yacht Group. If you send me your email address by private message I could send you copies.
I have a photo album on this site called Sailwinch installations which illustrates some other options. Sailwinch installations
Edited By Gareth Jones on 07/01/2021 16:39:55
Given that your model yacht is 50 inches long I would suggest its almost certainly a Marblehead class model. Based on the double ended shape I think a possible design would be Kokanee. I have attached a copy of the drawing I have below. Even if it is not an exact match to your model, it is in the same class and from the same era so should give you a starting point for its restoration.
The full sized plan may still be available from Sarik, although I could not find it when I had a quick look a few minutes ago. If you need any further help please come back to the forum or send me a personal message.
There are several potential suppliers of sails and fittings, such as Nylet, PJ Sails, Sails etc. and others.
|Thread: 2021 Builds during lockdowns|
Your S class is quite different from ours so maybe the class changed over the years. Elizabeth acquired hers from Alan in 2012 and it was No 5, Shiva. Alas the photo is one of those that for some reason, no matter how I format it, won't appear the right way up.
I am pleased that you were impressed by the models on the VMYG stand at the CADMA show. I was the custodian of the stand at the time you came round and was curious to know why you were making notes. It was only later that I realised you were going to write the show report for Model Boats. In that respect you replaced me as I had done the show report for the previous 8 years or so, However I don't bear a grudge, after 8 reports on the same show it was getting difficult to think of anything original to write.
I am intrigued by your reference to a small scratch built model yacht. Is it by any chance an Alan Wyatt S class? Elizabeth bought one from him about 6 years ago, in fact the one he had built for his wife Margaret. Elizabeth wanted something to remind her of his craftsmanship and the help he had willingly offered when she started building model yachts. He was an outstanding craftsman in many materials including wood, metal and paint. He was also so willing to offer advice and help and so modest about his own achievements. He was a very sad loss to the modelling world and Kirklees MBC,
Maybe we will get a chance to meet up this year. Phaedra might be finished by the summer, but I am not very confident there will be a CADMA show to attend in June.
Its been a while since I posted anything on here, mainly because I have changed tack, so to speak, in the model boat world and have been concentrating on building and restoring vintage model yachts for the last couple of years.
My current project is an A class yacht to a 1970 John Lewis design called Phaedra 2. We bought the bare wooden hull and keel weight from another VMYG member in the middle of last summer. It was brought along to a model boat club in Leeds about 10 years ago as a garage or loft find and auctioned off to a member of the club. Last year he decided he was not going to finish it and was looking for someone to 'take it on' Elizabeth and I were eager volunteers. The hull is about 85 inches long, beautifully constructed with cedar planks. The keel weight is very nicely cast and was partially finished when we acquired it. When complete the yacht should weigh about 68 lbs and carry about 1500 sq inches of sail. The only clue to the original builder is that the hull was accompanied by some drawings done on UK Atomic Energy Authority drafting sheets from their site in Risley. Coincidentally many more years ago than I care to remember, I used to go out with a girl whose father worked there.
So far I have added the deck beams and internal bracing ribs and tie bars, The sail winch and rudder servo are also installed and the deck has been cut roughly to size. Work on the model has been paused for the last couple of months as we have been carrying out some major improvements to our workshop. In addition to Phaedra 2 we have two ten Raters in for restoration but at the moment these are primarily Elizabeth's responsibility.
Here are a few photos of Phaedra as we originally acquired it and as it is now.
|Thread: Discussion on Motors and Props|
Glad to see you are still around and still got the anorak.
I will post some data when I work out the best way of displaying a table. I have used a Springer tug as a test bed for a number of brushless motor/prop/battery combinations but it would probably be easiest to use as a comparison if they were all listed side by side.
|Thread: Best Servos|
I have used the Hitec HS785HB in lots of different yachts, mainly up to Marblehead sized i.e. 800 sq inches of sail. They have always worked faultlessly and provided you don't need ultra fast response for a high performance competitive racing yacht they are fine.
Based on my records of various types of sailwinch the HS785 HB typically gives about 3.6 turns on a 38 mm drum and about 430 mm of sheet travel.
To get the maximum holding force on the sails you need to attach the sheets as far away from their pivot point as possible. If you assume a boom travel of 80 degrees from fully in to fully out, and you use the full travel of the sailwinch the maximum distance from the pivot point to the sheet attachment is about 400 mm. Usually you will find the length of the jib boom becomes the limiting factor and typically on a Marblehead I find I use a lever arm of 250-300 mm and restrict the sail winch travel accordingly in the transmitter servo travel limits.
|Thread: Pond Yacht|
Can you provide the hull length and beam? A side on photograph showing the hull and keel profile would also help.
|Thread: Spektrum radio|
I have to agree with Malcolm, generally I am quite happy with my Spektrum equipment but occasionally I have sworn at it, either because it has developed an intermittent hardware fault or because it has not done what I expected, usually because I did not read the instructions carefully. I do get the impression that current transmitters are not as robust as they used to be, although they are more sophisticated and do have some useful features, like being able to change modes on the sticks withouit having to take the back off the transmitter and fiddle about inside swapping springs and ratchets.
The failsafe situation is, as Dave, says confusing and some Spektum receivers set channels other than throttle to the last known good position, others can be programmed to put all servos in a preset position, chosen when setting up the system. However the throttle channel, which is the one I invariably use for a sail winch can usually be preset and I normally set the failsafe so that the sail winch puts the sails about 30 degrees out as a reasonable compromise to allow the yacht to be recovered.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 22/06/2020 12:28:06
I think Tim Rowe is correct in his explanation and the Spektrum DX6i does have protection against using the wrong transmitter settings with any previously bound receiver. The feature is called ModelMatch. The following text is taken directly from the manual:-
You must bind the receiver to the transmitter before it will operate. Binding is sharing identification codes between the receiver and the active memory of the transmitter. Once bound the receiver only connects to the transmitter when the previously bound model memory is selected.
I am pretty sure it does work like this as I have a number of different yachts programmed into my DX6i and have occasionally wondered why a model does not work, usually when testing something in the workshop, and I have found I had the wrong model selected on the transmitter. My memory is probably less reliable than the transmitters.
The basic channel settings are stored in the transmitter memory not the receiver. However some data must be stored in the receiver, apart from the transmitters identification code, if only to set up the fail safe settings. Fail safe settings might not seem so important in model boats but they can be particularly significant in model yachts with big powerful sail winches. I have had a sail arm servo tear itself out of its mountings when the arm came up against the extended keel inside the hull. It was my fault, I turned the transmitter off before the receiver, it went into the default failsafe mode which was throttle fully back and that was outside the normal travel range of the sailwinch. Nowadays I am more careful in making sure I have set the failsafe to the setting I need, not the default which is usually appropriate to a model aircraft.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 22/06/2020 08:07:01
|Thread: Inherited model identification & help|
I am pretty sure your yacht is built from a kit by Robbe under the name Inga IV. If you google it there is some information available on the web. Robbe no longer exists in its own right but the kits were taken over by Krick and are being marketed under the name Ro-Marin but I don't think Inga IV is available at present.
|Thread: Spektrum DX6e Switch Problem|
The transmitter was posted off to the repair centre at Al's Hobbies last Wednesday, postage cost, tracked £11.
I was rung up by the technician yesterday who confirmed the switch had two mechanical faults and had been repaired, cost of repair £30 and postage back £9.
It arrived back today, a week after it was sent off and is now working fine.
A much cheaper option than buying a replacement, possibly having to learn another programming process and having to set up 10 sail winches again.
Excellent service and I have no complaints. However not quite as good as a replacement UPVC door lock gearbox that I ordered for our back door last week. Time from ordering on the website to having it delivered and fitting it was less than 24 hours. (and that was just the standard delivery service)
A helpful man at Al's Hobbies Service Dept told me he thinks he knows what the fault is and it should be a simple repair to the on/off switch so I am going to box the transmitter up and send it off in the post tomorrow.
Really the only 'computerised' part of the transmitter that we use is to set the servo range and end points for the throttle channel which controls the sailwinch in various yachts. This particular transmitter has about 10 models in its memory, all different. I used to use a Servomorph in each yacht but the transmitter set up is simpler. As much as anything, I don't want to have to learn how to programme yet another transmitter which, even if it is a Spektrum one, will no doubt have had some improvements added that make the process different to previous models - and maybe incompatible to some of my many Spektrum receivers.
Thanks for sorting the post out into a separate thread Colin. It might be easier to follow now.
The switch on the DX6e is a push button switch not a slider - push for on, push and hold for 4 seconds for off.
I have had the back off a DX5 lots of times, either to investigate the on off switch problem I had with one of those or to change the mode of the throttle stick from slider to spring centered and back again, depending on whether its prime use was for powered models or yachts. Changing the mode on the DX6e is easy, its done with a switch on the back. Taking the DX6e apart though looks much trickier in comparison.
I had a cautious look inside the DX6e but could only separate the two halves of the case by about an inch. The problem is there is a lot more 'gubbins' inside a DX6e and a lot of leads across from the back section to the front. I suspect most of these leads have plugs or sockets at one end or the other but they are so short I can only gingerly separate the two halves of the transmitter by about an inch. I suspect if I separate the leads from the front or back it could be a real struggle to get them reconnected. Maybe there is some spare wire hidden in there or maybe some 'value engineering' was done in the design and someone worked out their assembly line workers only needed leads 2 inches long to put them together and they could save a penny a transmitter.
I will ring the service centre next week and see what they say and let you know the outcome. It will probably be cost effective to repair a DX6e but the response I got on the DX5 from Germany 2 years ago was its obsolete.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 24/05/2020 20:45:36
Edited By Gareth Jones on 24/05/2020 20:59:13
Thanks for that Dave I will give them a try. However I have just had a thought I will investigate first. I wonder if it is a touch sensitive switch rather than a mechanically operated one?
The initial reference to your advice Dave was because I seem to remember you became rather disenchanted with Spektrum technology a while ago and mentioned you were selling off your Spektrum stuff.
Edited By Colin Bishop on 24/05/2020 19:12:31
I have a feeling Dave Milbourn is going to come along and say I told you so but here goes anyway.
I have a Spektrum DX6e transmitter which is about 2 or 3 years old. It has been faultless up to now but has started to be very reluctant to allow itself to be switched off. No matter where, how hard or how long I press the on/off switch down it sometimes refuses to turn off and the only option is to remove one of the batteries. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a solution, other than a new switch or send it off to the repair agents, wherever they are now?
If I replace the battery the unit immediately powers up without needing to press the switch to turn it on so I am not sure whether the fault is in the switch itself or the electrical logic in the unit. Getting at the switch inside the case does not look straightforward. Ironically I bought this transmitter to replace a DX5 transmitter that also had a problem with its on/off switch, but that was a different type of switch.
Sorry I meant to start this as a new thread but somehow managed to add it to this one and now cant remove it - not my day today
Moved from previous thread
Edited By Colin Bishop on 24/05/2020 15:31:04
|Thread: LiPo storage charging|
Definitely with the balancing lead. I cant think of any reason why anyone would ever charge a LiPo without one - unless you didn't have one and were desperate enough to take the risk.
|Thread: Sweet Sue II|
Its good to see you back on the forum and about to start another project. I am sure your model will put even Dave Milbourn's Fairey in the shade when its finished to your usual high standard.
Seeing the clock on the wall of your apartment reminded me of the one I made some years ago. As a small boy my favorite toy was Meccano and I was fascinated by gears and gearboxes, In my final year at university I designed a transfer gearbox for a lorry as my design project. However it was not very good as I was never very happy starting anything from a clean sheet of paper.
One day thirty odd years ago, I told my wife I fancied building a clock from a kit. What I envisioned was assembling lots of brass gears into a working mechanism. However, what she bought me for Christmas 1989 was a complete clock mechanism and chimes plus the plans for a Vienna regulator case. Progress was quite slow as I did not have a lathe to make the columns and finials but eventually, after some improvisation the clock was completed 10 years later.
For Christmas 1999 she bought me an engraved brass plate to fit inside the case.
The clock is still on our dining room wall but very rarely gets wound up these days.
Edited By Gareth Jones on 09/04/2020 11:36:37
|Thread: Vane Steering for Model Yachts|
Its quite common to mount the vane gear on a bracket overhanging the transom on 36R class yachts as shown in the picture below. The 36R is the only formally recognised class where this is allowed. For Marbleheads, 10 Raters and A class boats the axis of the vane gear must be inboard on the hull. However since you are making an experimental installation of your own design and it is not going to be measured or registered you can of course do as you please.
It is also quite common on vane steered yachts for the lower section of the back stay to be split into two separate lines as shown in the photo, so they stay clear of the vane gear in all its possible positions.
Watch out Ray, I think Luddite was the word that got me into trouble last time.
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We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
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