Here is a list of all the postings Brian Fry has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: boat fittings|
Thank you Ducky,
Unfortunately there was nothing suitable on that site.
Any other suggestions please anyone?
I am just finishing a 12th scale dayboat and wish to obtain some fairleads and bollards - can anyone recommend a supplier please?
|Thread: Propshaft lubrication and setup|
Thanks for clearing that up, John!
Your additional advice was something I had not considered concerning the propshaft bearings
Regarding tight spots in the motor, we are talking about electric motors aren't we?
Thank you Chas,
You have been a big help - everything you said made good sense and I will try your silicon grease solution in my boat
I am building a 24 inch electric day boat and I am about to fit the propshaft.
What I would like to know is what to lubricate the shaft with - the inboard end of the tube will be above water level - and how much.
I would also like to know is whether it is correct to arrange any longitudinal play in the motor/shaft assembly such that the thrust load is taken by the prop securing nut (forward of the propeller) rather than by the motor bearings.
Any advice would be welcome
|Thread: Electric motor suppression|
I am starting to plan the wiring layout in my electric boat and as I like to keep things tidy, I wanted to avoid having dangly capacitor things hanging off the end of the motor.
All the other components of the system (RX, Battery and ESC) will be at least six inches further back in the boat in a water resistant container.
I was thinking of assembling a mini PCB to go in the container which would configure the capacitors and battery earth lead network as per standard requirements.
What I would like to know is whether having the capacitors further away from the motor will will reduce their suppression effectiveness.
Any advice please? - sorry to hog the forum!
|Thread: Electric boat experts here please!|
Thanks for your advice members.
Ashley,I take on board (no pun intended) your points, although I was planning to close the power to zero on the throttle stick before moving the reversing (elevator) stick to the revers position.
Manxman you got me bang to rights: it was Ebay and for less than £5 delivered it seemed worth the gamble!
I guess I was concentrating on making sure it was a brushed motor item as there seems to be a big difference in prices between brushed and brushless ESC's I wonder why that is?
I thought I had got a real bargain when I recently bought an ESC for my boat .
I carefully checked that it was for brushed motors and that the current limit was ok and that it had a battery elimination circuit .
When it arrived I found it didnt have a reverse! (It was clearly marked PLANE)
Possibly fortunately, I was going to use my very old 4 channel radio set so I thought, why not use a spare channel to reverse the polarity of the motor?
I figured a D.P.D.T. switch would do this , but before I go any further and blow anything up, could anyone advise if this will work and/or any problems likely?
|Thread: Centre of gravity|
Thanks for the extra information Paul, - I had forgotten about the weight shift due to (liquid) fuel consumption!
But to be absolutely pedantic here (sorry!) we would only be at the unpowered gliding test stage of the aircraft.
Lets get off planes shall we? - this is a boating forum! it was only an analogy after all..............
I have started to note the general layout of components in similar boats to the one I am building so, since I am no scholar, trial and error it is!
Thank you Paul and Ashley.
You see, I am an ex-aeromodeller and for an aircraft, a nominal centre of gravity is always calculated (usually just in front of the thickest part of the wing chord) so that the first flight has a reasonable chance of being successful.
I understand your points about moving the ballast (batteries) about on a trial and error basis, but I wouldn't think a full size boat architect has the same luxury, and needs to calculate some sort of balance point before it goes into production.
OK, we're talking models here - its just that I like to get things right from the start if possible.
That said, I have no argument with your advice and I guess a static test in the bath when the hull is painted is a good starting point.
Thanks again gents,
Thank you Jake, I am sorry if my question was not clear.
What I wanted to know was where along the keel the boat should balance, e.g. a third of the way from the bow?, half way back? more?
thanks for your your reply
I am in the process of building a hard chine style motor boat and will shortly be installing the radio and battery equipment.
Could anyone please advise where the centre of gravity should be on a design of this type?
|Thread: Boat Shows 2008|
There should be a temporary boating pool and model shops selling boating spares (amongst other things) at the Wings and Wheels Model Show to be held at North Weald Airfield (M11 nr Harlow) over the weekend of 28-29 June (admission £9!)
- its worth going just to see the scale jet aircraft fitted with real gas turbine jet engines - hope this helps.
|Thread: cooling rings part 2|
|some people find that kind of language offensive - you only show yourself up.............|
|Thread: Please spec my equipment|
Many thanks Ashley, you have given me quite a lot to ponder!
I'll start the rounds of the model shops on the 'Net and see what my budget will run to.
I'll report back when I have made some progress.
Thank you again
This my first Post.
I have been retired for a while and decided to finish a boat that I started about 20 years ago.
I am completely out of touch with current motors and batteries.
I have tried to pick up information about the motor/battery type/size from replies to other posts, but the only thing I have learned for sure is that it all depends on the size and type of model, so couldn't copy these other suggestions with any confidence.
Here is what I have:
A completed hard chine hull built in ply, 24 inches long and 9 inch beam.
I intend to complete this as a semi-scale open runabout - i.e. no significant superstructure.
I don't need it to go like a bat out of hell, but it would be nice to have a reserve of power for an occasional blast.
The only piece of kit I have was bought a few years ago and is an Electronize 43X ESC which is rated 12-24v / 10 amp and does not have a B.E.C.
I think using this item means that I will have to use a brushed motor but would like to know what size I require.
Following on, What would be the best type of battery to use; Nicad or lead-acid and following on from that, what sort of capacity should I consider?
Finally, I still have to obtain the radio system and here again I am thinking that a 2 channel system with one servo and using my ESC will suffice.
My final question then is what are the pros and cons between 27mhz and 40mhz systems?
I thank everybody in advance, for any advice they can offer me..................
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