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Member postings for Peter Fitness

Here is a list of all the postings Peter Fitness has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Prototype build of ELLIE
03/11/2013 21:07:16

Dave, I'm fairly sure that the reason you don't get "snail trails" from using oil is that the bearings in your boats are properly made, unlike some I've seen.

Paul mentioned the viscosity of grease - as it doesn't really get cold where I live it hasn't been a problem for me. After all, if the temperature drops below 15C we think it's cold, on the other hand, 30C is a nice warm daycool

While the discussion is still on shaft lubrication, I have heard it said the the water alone is sufficient lubrication for most model applications. Does anybody have thoughts about that? Obviously it would only affect the outboard bearing.

Peter.

02/11/2013 21:05:40

Bob, as I said in my earlier post, I use an outboard motor grease which is waterproof. It's available at any marine supply shop here, and I would guess that the same would apply elsewhere. I like the sliding bush idea, that's called thinking outside the boxidea

Dave, I have not found any noticeable restriction on the motors using this grease, and my motors are the common garden variety 540 type can motors, with the odd 600 or 700 thrown in, depending on the size of the boat. I use a 6v power supply from SLA batteries, of varying capacities depending on how much ballast I need. As you said, everyone has a different solution, and the funny thing is that they will all work, it boils down to personal preference. My main concern with oil is that it could leak past the outer bearing into the water, potentially causing pollution, especially in enclosed waters where most of us sail. It does create pretty colours on the water in sunlight, thoughsmiley

Peter.

Edited By Peter Fitness on 02/11/2013 21:08:17

Thread: Winter Special
02/11/2013 03:40:58

Mine arrived last week, and what a great read it is. Like Paul T, I found Dave Milbourn's article very informative, and also very clearly explained, even for an electronic dumbo like me.

Well done to Paul Freshney and the team.

Peter.

Thread: Prototype build of ELLIE
02/11/2013 03:32:55

That could be a problem, Bob, it depends on how accessible the prop tube is. My first model boat build was an Artesania Amsterdam and, in my ignorance, I had to re-do a number of things, one of which was retro-fitting a prop greasing tube. Because of the generous proportions of the Amsterdam hull I was able to (carefully) drill a hole in the prop tube and, (VERY carefully), soft solder a grease tube in. Subsequent assemblies have been silver soldered, but I was not about to attempt that in a GRP hull - for obvious reasonssmiley Come to think of it, I wouldn't attempt silver soldering in any kind of hull.

BTW, I rather like your colour scheme, it's something a little different, but quite attractive, and it should certainly stand out on the water.

Peter.

Edited By Peter Fitness on 02/11/2013 03:35:46

01/11/2013 21:59:39

Bob, this is a subject that has been discussed many times before and there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to which type of lubricant to use. Some swear by oil, claiming that oil doesn't create any drag on the prop shaft, while others, myself included, use grease of some kind. My personal preference is for outboard motor grease which is waterproof and doesn't emulsify when in contact with water. I have not found any noticeable restriction by using grease as opposed to oil, and that could be because my boats are operating at a relatively low speed. High performance craft may be another matter entirely.

I make my own prop shaft assemblies and always silver solder a grease tube in to the prop tube. I then make a cap which is a slide fit over the grease tube, inject grease into the cap using a small cheap syringe, and the grease is forced into the tube when the cap is fitted. For the initial greasing I inject the grease directly into the prop tube via the greasing tube, and use the cap method for topping up. I have found that some grease can sometimes be flung around inside the hull, so I make a small shield that sits over the inboard end of the prop tube(s).

Peter.

Home made prop tube assembly

Thread: Plumbing the depths
17/10/2013 22:48:57

Marvellous Bob.

Peter.

Thread: Prototype build of ELLIE
14/10/2013 22:57:06

I agree, Bob.

Peter.

Thread: Boat rides too high in the water
13/10/2013 05:01:40

Definitely sealed lead acid (Gel) batteries, for the reasons that Dave and Ashley stated, more ballast and longer run time. Several years ago I built a Norfolk Broads Cruiser, similar to the one that Paul T and Bob Abel are building, which needed more ballast to bring it down to the waterline. Instead of lead I used two 4.2ah SLA batteries connected in parallel, thus giving the same voltage but double the run time.

Peter.

Thread: Prototype build of ELLIE
13/10/2013 04:52:56

Bob, what colour do you plan on using below the waterline?

I agree with Ashley concerning the wood colour, it is rather dark but, again, that's just an opinion. I also like the strakes, they're a nice touch. The colour scheme, while unusual, is very eye catching - I like it.

Peter.

Thread: Armidale Class Patrol Boat
03/10/2013 23:29:03

I was in the far north Queensland city of Cairns last week, and while we were there, the naval base, HMAS Cairns, conducted its open day. A number of naval vessels were open for inspection, including HMAS Bundaberg. Needless to say we availed ourselves of the opportunity to go aboard, and take some photos. The ship has been modified in a number of details since I built my model, so it was a good chance to gather the necessary information to update it. The most noticeable difference is the modification to the engine exhausts, and the change to the walkway on the forward superstructure. Both of these mods should be relatively easy to do, and I've already started to make the exhausts.

I was also recently given a replica of the ship's crest, by a former CO of Bundaberg. The son of a friend of mine is a former CO of two of the Armidale Class Patrol Boats, and while my friend was visiting his son in Darwin, he was introduced to the former Bundaberg CO. When my friend mentioned that I had built a model, the former CO gave him the crest to give to me, and it now occupies pride of place on my wall.

It was a real thrill to see and go aboard the "real thing", and I'm pleased to say I believe my model is a reasonably good replica. Having now seen and photographed the ship I hope to add some more detail to make an even more accurate model.

Peter.

HMAS Bundaberg.jpgBundaberg detail.jpgBundaberg leaving Cairns.jpgBundaberg plaque.jpgBundaberg crest.jpg

Edited By Peter Fitness on 03/10/2013 23:33:56

Thread: Prototype build of ELLIE
03/10/2013 22:47:11

It's looking very nice, Bob. I particularly like the veneer, it really does look good. Don't forget to let me know when the plans are available.

Peter.

03/09/2013 01:23:10

Bob and Paul, it's probably not visible in the photos of my Broads cruiser, but I did decide to plank the deck, on a 1.5mm ply sub deck. I don't know if the full size boats had planked decks or not, but as mine is freelance I decided to use modeller's licence and plank it anyway. I'm very happy with the result.

Peter.

02/09/2013 01:18:12

Bob, I've often wondered why you chose to use 4mm ply which, as I'm sure you know, is much harder to bend than say, 1.5mm ply, for ibvious reasons. I have found that 1.5mm ply has plenty of strength when adequately supported, and has never caused me any problems as regards durability.

I endorse the comments re Stanley planes, they are quality tools, especially the older ones. I have a selection of them, most of which are in excess of 40 years old, some I bought and others I inherited from my late father. Properly cared for they will last several lifetimes.

Peter.

22/08/2013 00:22:39

It's all clear now Paulyes

Peter.

Thread: Help at launch and recovery
21/08/2013 01:54:52

I use launching straps on my bigger boats. They are made from upholstering straps, with some weights in strategic places so they don't float when retrieving a boat. Handles are from aluminium tubing wide enough so they keep the straps far enough apart to allow them to be slipped over the hull from each end. They are long enough so I can lower the boat into the water, which could be up to a metre lower than the bank, without undue bending. Unfortunately I am away from home for another month or I would take photos to illustrate what I mean.

Peter.

Thread: Prototype build of ELLIE
21/08/2013 01:47:10

Paul, 8mm diameter prop shafts seem rather large, I would have thought that 4mm would be plenty big enough. What is your thinking on this?

Peter.

15/08/2013 00:51:31

I rather like the curved shape to the bow former, but I am assuming you want it straight so as to use sheeting rather than planking, for reasons of simplicity?

Peter.

12/08/2013 00:11:31

I like the idea of the breast hook, as it would simplify things considerably. I also like the peg board idea, so I will have to file both ideas in my memory bank for future reference.

Peter.

11/08/2013 00:44:33

I didn't have too much trouble in the bow area, using 1.5mm ply, which I dampened slightly. This made it much easier to bend.

Peter.

Thread: World of Model Boating Special Edition
10/08/2013 02:56:40

I am thoroughly enjoying the special too. We are currently away in our caravan for over 5 weeks, and the magazine is with me so I can read it in detail. Well done to Colin Bishop and the team.

We are in the Central Highlands of Queensland right now, enjoying the beautiful sunshine, and the company of our latest grandchild, a boy aged 3 weeks - as well as his 18 month old sister and their parents.

Peter.

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