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Member postings for Daniel Cardona 1

Here is a list of all the postings Daniel Cardona 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs
21/10/2018 21:14:14

I’m an model aircraft modeller and and i also just recently startet into model boats. Unfortunatley in this ALmost Ready Made world contributed (IMO) into letting these national treasures close to fading away. Brian Taylor , dennis Bryant, Vic Smeed and others are names that some so hobbyist dont even know about. I have some original plans and parts from brian taylor and i consider them my treasures. The parts that once was i bought from My Hobby Store were not even up to par with the originals , apart the ridiculus postage costs that i had to pay. Well at least there is still some hope because one can still find these plans and build a proper model.

But now many first timers buy a get these ARTF , gone seems the days of what they were called modellers. Now only assemblers.

See all these woderful models of Vic smeed here and old magazines and photo’s of models still in there building stage gives me some hope.

Regards

Daniel

Thread: Sail Material help needed
26/09/2018 12:44:22
Posted by Malcolm Frary on 26/09/2018 11:43:53:

Looking at the pictures, there is nothing at the top of the sail to stop the extended luff from drooping down, That is the job of the headboard, a piece of stiffening that holds the back edge of the sail out and extends a way down the front edge to keep the horizontal edge horizontal.

To guess the number and size of batten needed, look at the DF95 pictures - three and they go about half way across the sail. Perhaps I've been unlucky with my choice of adhesive, but that kind of batten usually lasts about three sessions and ends up in the lake. I hold mine in place by covering them in a duct tape pocket. The tape sticks to ripstop very well, the mylar sails don't need any battens. With the relatively light DF sails, just the tape will probably do the job.

Hi Malcolm

So with mylar or drating film all i need is tape? Will Gorilla tape be enough? that is what i tried first on the ripstop, it looks that attaches well on it so maybe it will work fine on mylar too. if not I might use deck patch material.

now looking at the sails of my DF65 Which i replaced with sochs sails i see that there is a batten at the top, should i then try to do something similar? I figure out what material is that tough.

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And in this last photo, does anybody knows what kind of tape is this? looks like ripstop but self adhesive. it's attached on the Jib.

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25/09/2018 21:00:14
Posted by Ray Wood 2 on 25/09/2018 20:29:43:

Hi Daniel,

Your sails need some battens to hold the sail to shape , acetate strips glued on should help,. Many sailing dinghys have fully battened sails

I would try Mike Weston. at RC Yachts of Swanley he has everything for df65 & df95 and Mylar

Regards Ray

Hi Ray

any suggestions of where, how many and what length I should aim for?

Thread: RG65 Alpha
25/09/2018 16:22:39
Posted by Jim Masson 1 on 21/06/2018 17:36:43:

I've been following John Goodyear's articles on his design and build of his RG65 Alpha. I've been considering building a yacht and I think I might make an attempt at this one.

Has anyone made a start on this? As I would be a beginner at yacht building I'd be interested in any comments, advice etc.

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I almost finished mine, still trying to figure it out on the sail making part. it's a very easy build apart f(or me) is where the lower sheeting joins together at the middle. I think planking would work better for me. had a blast so far.

Thread: Sail Material help needed
25/09/2018 15:07:15

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To give an idea of what i meant

25/09/2018 13:24:47
Posted by Ray Wood 2 on 24/09/2018 21:45:17:

Hi Daniel,

You should try using Mylar draughting film it has a much smoother and crisp feel, I have a set on my DF65 and the Dragon Flite comes with them as standard

Regards Raydf95.jpg

Hi ray, that's what i'm trying to do in these past 5 days.I ordered a 10m Roll trough Ebay which the seller supposedly was able to ship to Malta. then 2 days later after i made my order he told me that he had a problem to send the parcel. How hard is to send a simple roll of drafting film! Now I tried a different seller which is ''supposedly'' to be from UK, after 2 days i asked him if he send the item and his respond was sorry

Please excuse our limited knowledge of the English language

Original message in French language:

Hello,

Thank you for your email.

What is your order number, please?

Once again we sincerely apologise for an inconvenience caused

OHH Come ON!!!

23/09/2018 11:38:08

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22/09/2018 18:08:54

it's difficult to explain but compared to my mylar sail of my dragon force rg65 and the ripstop nylon used on the Dumas Star 45, the top part of the main sail doesn't hold up straight, the tip falls over. I must take pictures and post them here as soon as get home, it's difficult for me to find the correct words in english to explain what I mean.

22/09/2018 13:35:39

Hi All

I'm currently trying to finish an RG65 (ALPHA) designed by John Goodyear, right now i'm trying to finish the sails. I ordered from ebay some ICAREX RipStop Nylon which was marked as 40D. When i compared the material with other sails that i have on my other models ( Aeronaut Bella and Dumas Star45) I noticed that the material that i ordered looks more lighter.

If someone have an idea of this material I'm referring to the grid pattern of the material itself, each grid box of the material of the aeronaut bella sails measure at 10mm by 10mm. the material that i ordered are much smaller.

I didn't like how the sails came as they seem way too thin, does anybody knows which one i'm supposed to order? the 40d or 20d for example.

Regards

Daniel

Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs
18/05/2018 18:08:59

Nah.... way too expensive for me right now, plus i have to add the postage cost to Malta in which it will add considerably on the final price. if i ever build a Tug i Think i will go the scratch build route and try a guardsman from Vic smeed plans or maybe an Aeronaut Kit.

and speaking of scratch building, I'm already busy with and an RG65 sailboat (Alpha from John Goodyear) and in a very limited budget. so maybe you can have a try on the Akron Erie Railroad Tug Davewink

Cheers

Daniel

18/05/2018 14:01:56
Posted by Tony Hadley on 18/05/2018 08:56:49:

Spotted this kit for sale on Old Model Kits, Akron Erie Railroad Tug at 245.00USD by Model Shipways.

**LINK**

This kit is from Vic's American Tug, plan number V109 from Sarik. The Sarik plan makes into a model 25.5" long whereas the kit is 37.5" long. The kit was originally made and sold by Marvon Models of Doncaster from 1987 and was also sold in the United States by Model Shipways.

look to be a fun project, after all its a Vic smeed design. Only one thing would scare me to purchase a kit like that, it s the fact that it's says DIE CUT parts. last model that i build from die cut parts is a Dumas Star 30, the parts were horribly cut, nothing was matching to the plans so i had to build it on my own, turned out Ok but it wasn't the usual enjoyable building experience. maybe die cutting from 1987 were more of better quality.

Thread: Dumas Star 30 sail boat
18/01/2018 14:09:25

If anyone familiar with this Kit should note that i changed the shape of the Rudder as i wanted a more modern look to it......As if you see the rudder when sailing...go figure dont know 

Edited By Daniel Cardona 1 on 18/01/2018 14:09:54

Edited By Daniel Cardona 1 on 18/01/2018 14:10:15

18/01/2018 13:53:30

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spreaders

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18/01/2018 13:50:15

the mast and sail installation was a bit unusual and odd to me, but since it's an old kit and all these years not much have been changed, then there must be something that works. nevertheless I've still changed somethings.

the mast is build in two halves in which in between there's a 1.5mm plywood strip. a groove is pre made were the luff of the sail should slide in. the luff or what i call the leading edge of the sail there's a channel were a rope should slide in and sew at the top and bottom. by removing a dowel at the bottom the sail will slide from there but instead i glued permanently the dowel and opened a small groove at the top were the sail will still slide in easily.

18/01/2018 13:38:00

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18/01/2018 13:35:18

18/01/2018 13:32:57

I started by transferring templates to card so if i ever decide to build maybe a second one. the Kit comes with Diecut liteply (Poplar plywood) bulkheads and mahogany veneer sheets for the hull sides, bottom and deck. I wasn't very impressed with the quality of the dieCut parts at all and many if not all weren't matching to the plans so most of the build was accomplished by guts and what was probably good for me. the keel is a piece of stainless steel sheet pre-cut and it doesn't come with any ballast. The kit has two vacuum formed halves were you should pour lead shots and epoxy, then attached the two halves to the keel, i discarded this and used the two halves to make moulds were i poured molten lead and cast my own ballast halves.

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18/01/2018 13:11:54

Hello To all

I want to share here My progress of my Dumas Star 30 kit build, its my second sail boat that i'm building. the first one was an Aeronaut bella which i still didn't sailed it yet, since i love building models i immediately started the project of the building the star 30. I'm no pro at building boats, my main hobby is RC Model Aircraft and still i have lot to learn in building them and even fly them still to this day after 7yrs in the hobby.

I started my build thread on the model mayhem forum in the beginners section So I will basically share the same photo's that i posted there, so if anyone interested have a look also there

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,59523.0.html

If anyone of you here ever build the same Model, please do share your experiances and even photo's of your model, everything you like, even the radio setup or even any mods that you did on the Star30, i do love to hear opinions and get more ideas at looking to your models.

If I ever be successful in finishing this model it will be sailed on salt water, and that's because i live on the island of Malta, if anyone ever visited the island you would know that there aren't any lakes here big enough to sail a good size Rc sail boat.

regards

Daniel

Thread: Aeronaut Clipper (sealing the wood Suggestions)
24/09/2016 09:54:12

Oh I hear you Martin! I discovered the issues with the new Plasticote the hard way. The primer came out very good, I was pleased with the result so I started to paint below the chine with a Blue colour, light coat first, let it dry for 15min then a light coat (Final) of spray and let it dry overnight. ( room temp was between 27 and 30 deg ) I always did this with Plasticote products and never had any problems, So the day after I checked the paint and it looked Ok, nice and shiny and most importantly DRY. So I say OK Lets finish the rest with a nice white colour, I started to mask the blue and started to first coat of white let dry and sprayed another one.I Let it dry over night and checked the colour for dryness, Hurray I sad, Job done.

So I started to remove the masking Tape and horribly I discovered that the glue residue of the masking tape was still attached to the paint angry (blue). Oh dammit I said, fault of the Tape, so I grabbed some alcohol and rubbed a small piece with a cloth to remove the tape, Only to discover that even the Blue paint was being removed!!angry 2. Then while holding the hull in my hands I realized the I was having lots of finger prints on the white stuff too! It was like that paint was starting to Melt under my fingers,what the hell! So I had to sand Again and start all over. I noticed that that on the back of the says to let it fully dry after 48 hourssurprise But not even after that so long the paint won't be fully dry! Damn you Plasticote!!! I also hated the new nozzles, they leave lot of drips if your not carefulcrying.

So be aware with Plasticote guys!

Unfortunately all good thing in life come to a miserable end, Plasticote was a fine product...once

Regards

Daniel

16/09/2016 19:38:59

Thank you guys for all the suggestions, Well I went ahead and used thinned epoxy and gave it a good coat. seems that it worked fine, then I used Plasticote Primer paint. 4 coats in total and sanded in between and I was very pleased with the final result. The hull looked like Plastic and very smooth not perfect maybe but I was pleased, I think I will go on with spraying the Hull in Plasticote spray colors and try their PU varnish as well. I will try that on a test piece.

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