Here is a list of all the postings Tankerman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Motor and Prop Survey 2020 Update|
Colin, the following details are the set-up that I have used in my models for more than thirty years and have never found cause to alter them.
Ship name: M.V.Ballyloran
Type: Motor Collier
Kit: No,scratch built - Jim Pottinger plan
No.of Props: 1
Motor: Decaperm Geared, 12Volt
Prop.type: 4 blade, merchant ship type, cast brass.
Geared: 2.75:1, integral with motor bedplate
Battery type: Sealed Lead-Acid 12Volt - 8Ah
Duration: Not known but in excess of three hours at scale speed
Performancecale speed at about half throttle with ample reserve for heavy weather
Thanks Colin, 'traditional' model, 'traditional' methods with a slight nod towards modern technology - can't be beat!
Old Silas, thanks for your kind comments.
To answer some of your questions, the model is 55" long, 8.5" beam on a draught of 3.5" and displaces 34 lb. The hull is built in the traditional fashion of plank on frame using 6mm. birch plywood and 2mm. lime planks The decks are 2mm. plywood planked with 1mm. lime at the accommodation decks.The foredeck and raised quarterdeck bulwarks are from 15 thou" nickel-silver sheet.
The superstructure and hatches are built as plywood carcasses sheeted in 10 thou" plastic sheet. Most of the fittings are scratch built although the lifeboats are from "Quaycraft", the anchors from "Caldercraft", the four round cowl vents around the engine-room skylight by "John Haynes" and the guadrail stanchions by "James Lane". I prefer to make my own fittings but am not averse to using commercial products that are accurate and identical to the original vessel's fittings.
A 12 volt SLA battery powers a Decaperm geared motor driving a 45mm. Prop Shop cast brass propeller and two 12 volt SLA batteries in series power the "Foggy" smoke-unit. A Graupner sound module provides the air-horn sound down-loaded from a sound library on the internet.
|Thread: Thicknessing wood|
Thanks for the compliments.
I misunderstood the depth of cut you were looking to achieve, the saw to which I made reference is a great piece of kit nevertheless and I use it mostly for reducing wide sheets of wood down to narrow planks as required. It works out cheaper than buying planks in the smaller widths, which is where the saw soon pays for itself.
If you are thinking of a small bench saw I can recommend the Proxxon Micromot KS 230. Since purchasing this tool three years ago it has paid for itself many times over and is a joy to use.
There are several suppliers so an internet search should provide you with some data as to whether it is the machine for which you would have a use.
|Thread: Website Photo Competition Spring 2010|
My thanks to Colin and Paul and to Bob for your kind comments.
I second Colin's comments about the paint wear on Slo Mo Shun, so convincing that I thought I was looking at the real thing.
|Thread: Lead Ballast|
To introduce lead ballast in to awkward or remote spaces this is the easiest product to use:
Maybe it is expensive but is still cheaper than blowing bits of your anatomy off with molten lead.
Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 13/06/2010 11:23:49
|Thread: Absolute perfection!|
Gentlemen, I am sorry for the delay in replying to you, I have only just become aware of your postings.
The model took about two years to build and much pleasure was gained from doing research in to how Royal Navy ships of the period were built, decorated and rigged. My main interest is in Merchant Navy ships, and in particular British coasters of the 20th. century so I had a lot to learn.
James, I always say that patience is not required when you are doing something you enjoy, patience is required for chores and the mundane.
Pierre, don't lose faith, I've been making models for nearly sixty years and I'm still learning and trying to improve.
|Thread: Website Photo Competition Spring 2010|
|H.M.Cruiser "Vigilant" from a Marten,Howes & Baylis kit.|
H.M.S.Agamemnon from a Caldercraft kit
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