Here is a list of all the postings Banjoman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New to GRP|
Short answer: no, not really.
Longer answer: well, it depends. Most things can be done if one really wants to do them. However, covering a GRP hull with wood planking would, to my mind, rather defeat the purpose. When it come to kits, there are several reasons why a GRP hull might be chosen over a planked one. GRP allows the kit producer to furnish a ready-made basic hull to the customer, and one that can be produced over and over from the same moulds. Also, when appropriate the hull can come with a lot of surface detailing, such as rivets, plate lines, rubbing strakes, planking etc., or inversely, be made slick and smooth if it is that sort of a hull.
In any case, at least part of the interest for the builder of such a kit is that it saves a considerable amount of work and thus time. For some, this makes a GRP-hulled kit more interesting, while others finds it less so; yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choices ...
So while some GRP hulls will need some detail added to the outside of the hull -- chines for example, or rubbing strakes -- I've not yet seen one that was intended to serve as just a base for a complete, external planking of the hull. I would even go so far as to say that I would consider it inadvisable, compared to a conventional plank-on-frame planked hull, as it would be rather more difficult to fasten the planking except with some quite strong and properly waterproof glue -- epoxy comes to mind -- which would take a long time, and be both pernickety and potentially messy.
Edited By Banjoman on 16/09/2019 08:58:12
|Thread: Metcalf Mouldings|
As far as I'm aware, he hasn't had a website up and running for years now, and I'm not sure that he's specifically trading under the old "Metcalf Mouldings" monniker, either.
However, as recently as the May 2019 issue of Model Boats, he was still advertising both the Moonbeam and the the RNLI Ann Letitia Russel kits. This ad included various contact details, including a phone number and an e-mail address, so although the below ad (copied from said May 2019 Model Boats) has not appeared in more recent issues of the magazine (which might be taken as a sign that he has stopped altogether) you could always try giving him a ring or dropping him a line to find out what's what.
Best of luck with your kit hunting, and kind regards,
Edited By Banjoman on 16/09/2019 08:38:08
Edited By Banjoman on 16/09/2019 08:38:22
Edited By Banjoman on 16/09/2019 08:38:49
|Thread: Suspended activities|
I am delighted to hear that all went well, and wish you a speedy return to a state where building model ships is again on the menu!
Which Moonbeam do you mean? One of the full-size yachts, designed in the early 20th century by William Fife (see e.g. **LINK** and **LINK**)? Or the pond yacht replica produced and sold by Dave Metcalf of Metcalf Mouldings?
If it's the former, the Fife Archives currently seem to be in the hands of a company called Fairlie Yachts (William Fife was from Fairlie on the Firth of Clyde) in Southampton (**LINK**, see bottom of the page). If that is what you are looking for, it might perhaps be worth inquiring with them ... ?!
If it's the latter, I am not aware of any plans other than those that come with the kit, and which would not be any help in building a wooden hull to the same shape, as there are no line drawings at all. As someone already suggested, you could buy a kit, and then take the lines off the GRP hull, although that would of course be a fairly expensive way of going about it. And then again, it would only be fair to Mr Metcalf, whose intellectual property that particular Moonbeam is.
Another option might be to see if you can find somewhere a set of line drawings for a generic pond yacht of early 20th century vintage, and design you own replica. There are, I believe, various clubs and organisations around the UK dedicated to i.a. vintage yachts, that you could contact to find out what might be available. At a guess, the Vintage Model Yacht Group (http://www.vmyg.org.uk/plans.htm) could perhaps be a good place to start?!
Edited By Banjoman on 05/08/2019 06:53:58
Edited By Banjoman on 05/08/2019 06:58:42
Edited By Banjoman on 05/08/2019 06:59:05
Edited By Banjoman on 05/08/2019 06:59:51
|Thread: mahogany sheet|
Mahogany sheet 0.5 mm thick is available by mail order from i.a. Cornwall Model Boats (**LINK**) and The Model Dockyard (**LINK**). Both are reputable vendors that have been around for years, and from whom I would not hesitate a second to make an order.
Edited By Banjoman on 31/07/2019 10:44:46
Edited By Banjoman on 31/07/2019 10:45:06
|Thread: British brig|
Admirable in name, and admirable in appearance! A lovely model of a lovely subject!
|Thread: Miranda steam launch|
Or you could look at them, and (most likely) photograph the relevant pages (or get copies made) for personal use, at the British Library. However, from what it says in their catalogue, that would entail getting a reader's pass and visiting their reading room in person, so if a trip to London would be more trouble and/or cost than it's worth for you, it wouldn't work.
Another possible source than e-Bay for second-hand copies is the Magazine Exchange (**LINK**). They currently don't seem to have anyone selling the issues you're looking for, but I have successfully bought old MB issues through them, so an alternative might be to keep a regular beady eye on what comes up for offer there.
Edited By Banjoman on 26/07/2019 12:43:43
|Thread: Technological Progress - Is it getting too complicated?|
For my part, when returning to the hobby in 2013 after a +/- 30 year hiatus, I did indeed find the learning curve a tad on the steep side; however, most of the new stuff was easy enough to figure out with a bit of reading (which of course as already remarked is usually only a few on-line searches away).
The one thing that did and still does bother me is that essentially all modern r/c equipment beyond the most basic sets is tailor made for models that take to the sky, and this is where I feel that the analogy with modern cars does break down a bit.
Yes. Modern cars come with a carload (ha!) of bells, whistles, horns and tooters, many of which may be surplus to requirement for a good number of drivers. However, all those things are there to address issues directly related to driving or being in a car. They may do this well or less so. They may be reliable or not. They may be (too) expensive to buy or maintain. But at least they are to the purpose in hand.
Multi-channel 2.4 GHz, computerized r/c, on the other hand, also comes with numerous bells, whistles, etc., but these have not in any way been designed with model boating requirements in mind. On the contrary, technological advances have been harnessed to solve problems and automate handling for people why fly plane and helicopter models. I have never been one of those people. Please don't get me wrong: I do not for moment mean to disparage them or their hobby. It is just that it was never my hobby, and so what I don't know about flaps and ailerons and air speeds and tail rotors and other thingummies would probably fill quite a few volumes.
Alas, flaps & co. do fill other volumes to the bursting point, namely the manuals and instructions for the r/c sets one has to buy if one wishes to enjoy the advantages of 2.4 GHz, and have a channel count higher than four.
Yes, useful information can be gleaned from said manuals, if one is prepared to suffer a subsequent minor headache, but it is much harder than it would have been, had there also been a chapter in there headed "So, You Want To Use This Set In A Boat, Do You?"
By the way: there might just be a market for a good booklet on that subject, if someone with a better understanding than mine were to feel up to writing one ...
The worst bit for me, however, is that it makes it much harder to know just which set to buy! All the brochures and websites will again go on and on about flaps and ailerons and tail rotors and how to mix these to the equivalent of six parts gin to one part vermouth ... but they will never tell me if set ABC-47 will do me better as a model boater than will set ZYX-74. Grrr.
End of gripe. Other than that, I'm on the whole delighted with what technological progress has done for our hobby (and also with most of the gadgetry in my car)
|Thread: Spider J|
I stand (well, sit, but you know what I mean) in total, complete and utter awe! It is of course no surprise, given your track record, but it should still be said: this is a stunningly beautiful model!
I take my hat off to you, Sir!
That is one seriously impressive and absolutely beautifully built cog boat! Just gorgeous!
Having missed some of your posts above while I was in Australia for most of January, I would also like to mention that the lovely cast bronze thimbles that Keith Jewell of Modelling Timbers used to sell before he closed shop are still, I think, available from a chap in Munich called Stefan Bauer at **LINK** (see page 33 of the online catalogue). I have not yet tried to order anything from him, as I bought up the remainder of Keith Jewell's stock when he was closing down, but I know of at least one other model boater who has.
Please note, too, that the measurement given in the catalog listing seems to refer to the largest internal width of the eye, rather than any overall size of the thimble.
Unfortunately, and in spite of the UK flag icon, both site and catalog seem to be available in German only, but it is at least fairly well illustrated; if anyone needs a hand with a translation of any passage in particular, I'd be happy to help out. Other than the thimbles, there are also plenty more things of interest to model boat builders, I'd say.
Actually, looking through said catalogue, I cannot help but wonder if Mr Bauer might have been Keith Jewell's source of stock for a number of items?!
Edited By Banjoman on 19/06/2019 10:35:20
|Thread: Surveying Around Europe|
Brrrr ... Perish the thought, is all I'll say to that!
Now, af Chapman in 1:96, that'd be summat else! Mind you, it is not very likely to happen either, but mainly because very definitely on my list is a 1:96 (or even 1:48 if I have by when I get around to it lost enough marbles) static model of Moshulu.
I was in Stockholm last week, where I spotted what is supposed to be the largest sail yacht currently afloat, Eos **LINK** , at the Skeppsbron quay, not far from the Royal Palace:
In the background are two other subjects that I personally find rather more attractive, namely an old and a modern harbour ferry of the types that run from the Slussen locks across to Djurgården and i.a. the Vasa Museum. Oh, and also a couple of plug-uglies in the form of Baltic Car Ferries for the Finland and Estonia routes.
While impressive in certain ways, I cannot say that Eos caught my fancy very much; while the hull shape looks allrightish to me, I find the superstructure to be way out of proportion. Essentially some sort of luxurious house, plumped down on a hull, I'd say, and not in the best of ways. Headroom and picture window views from inside seem to have been more of a priority here ...
And finally, another ship in the background that is much more attractive to my eyes, namely the three-masted full-rigger af Chapman (**LINK** ) -- these days permantly moored at the old Naval Base island of Skeppsholmen and used as a Youth Hostel:
Edited By Banjoman on 18/06/2019 13:00:20
Edited By Banjoman on 18/06/2019 13:01:07
|Thread: help needed on transmitter set, please|
I have had a look at the Hitec Aurora 9 manual (https://hitecrcd.com/files/Aurora_9_manual.pdf?bcsi_scan_a8638f79cc58bbc4=0&bcsi_scan_filename=Aurora_9_manual.pdf), and can very much understand why you find set-up confusing.
First and foremost, it is entirely and exclusively written from the perspective and for the purpose of setting up model aircraft -- powered airplanes, gliders or helicopters.
This means that although the English in which it is written is quite good, I'd say, it uses some very specialised (and therefore difficult) vocabulary and takes it for granted that you are reasonably familiar with model aircraft and their operation.
The problem is that very little (if any!) of all that applies to using a r/c set to control a model boat.
You will however need to understand the concept of modes, as the choice of mode (1, 2, 3 or 4 -- and the Aurora 9 apparently also has two custom modes) will directly affect how the four channels controlled by the sticks are attributed, and how they behave. See page 63 of the manual!
In particular you need to note that according to the manual, the default mode is set to Mode 2, which means that the throttle (gasen) is on the left stick, up-and-down. You may think that this is fine -- many (most?) model boaters like to control the throttle with that stick and direction. However, all these modes are intended for aircraft, and aircraft don't need a reverse function -- they never fly backwards! Therefore, in Mode 2 there will be zero throttle at the bottom of the stick's travel, and not in the center as we boaters need it to be. To further complicate things, many radios have an alarm function which will sound if you turn the radio on with a Mode 2 throttle stick in the center position. This makes perfect sense with an aircraft: it could be very, very dangerous to turn things on in a way that would make the propeller spin at half throttle while you are still getting the aircraft ready to fly. But in a model boat, all this makes no sense.
I use a different brand of radio (a Spectrum DX6i), but I think these things are pretty much standard. What I have done is to set the radio to Mode 1 instead. This puts the elevator (höjdroder) function on the left stick up-and-down instead, and because the elevator on an airplane is a function that works up or down from a centered position, I now have a stick with which to control the throttle that will behave as I want it to with my model boats. The only thing I need to think about is to plug my electronic speed controller into the receiver channel socket marked elevator instead of the one marked throttle!
As far as the additional functions that you mention are concerned, I would suggest that you more or less forget about the manual! These are all on/off functions. That is to say that what you want to be able to do is to throw a switch on the transmitter and start the function, and then throw the switch back again to turn it off. To do this, you would normally use some form of electronic switch (such as these https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.html) that you connect to the receiver, and when activated makes things happen by letting current flow through a circuit and then stops things again when desactivated.
To find out which buttons on your transmitter does what through which channel socket on the receiver, you can simply take a normal servo (if you have one) and then connect it to each channel in turn, and try flipping the switches around until you find the one that is connected to that channel. Make a note, and move on to next and so on. If a transmitter switch is a simple two-way on/off affair, the servo will most likely just move between its extremes, but that doesn't really matter. All you want to do is to map transmitter switches to receiver channel sockets.
I hope the above helps to some extent. If you'd like to, please send me a Personal Message through the Message Member function, and I'll be happy to repeat my message in Swedish. Given that this is an English language forum, public messages are not supposed to be in any other language, which of course makes sense as otherwise most forum members would be excluded from (parts of) the public discussions. If for example someone does not quite agree with what I've written above, or even thinks that I'm wrong (which is always a possibility!), they could not say so if they hadn't been able to understand what I'd written, could they?!
You might also find it worth your while to check out the Modellbygge i Fokus forum here: https://modellbygge.ifokus.se/. Although it is mainly used by people who build static plastic models, there are quite a few model boat builders on there, too, and everyone speaks Swedish ...
Edited By Banjoman on 17/05/2019 13:00:07
|Thread: New Online Buying Rules|
This may perhaps sound like nitpicking, but to be quite correct, neither the
Directive (EU) 2015/2366 [...] of 25 November 2015 on payment services in the internal market [...], already in force since early 2018 (**LINK**),
nor the follow-up
Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2018/389 of 27 November 2017 supplementing Directive (EU) 2015/2366 [...] with regard to regulatory technical standards for strong customer authentication [...], which comes into force on September 14th this year (**LINK** -- see p. 23 ff), and will be what Bob referred to in his initial post
actually obliges anyone to use any specific technical solution, such as one-time codes sent to a mobile phone, for two-factor authentication.
What will indeed be required for many (or even most, although there are some exceptions) electronic payment transactions as of this September is what the directive calls strong customer authentication. This is defined as
"an authentication based on the use of two or more elements categorised as knowledge (something only the user knows), possession (something only the user possesses) and inherence (something the user is) that are independent, in that the breach of one does not compromise the reliability of the others, and is designed in such a way as to protect the confidentiality of the authentication data".
For my part, it is already the case that in most instances when I want to pay for something online with my credit card (issued by my bank here in Belgium), at the final stage of the payment process I am redirected to a page (managed, I think, by the banks and/or the various payment and or card providers, but that doesn't really matter), where I have to type in a one-time code that I generate with my credit card and the bank-issued card reader that I also use whenever I log on to the on-line banking services of my bank. No mobile phone is involved at any stage.
However, it is indeed the case that when I use another card, which I have from a different source, I will usually receive a text message to my mobile with a one-time code to authenticate the transaction.
This difference is entirely down to choices made by those who have issued the different cards, and only down to the directive in the sense that they both fulfill the requirement for strong customer authentication by combining at least two elements as defined above.
Likewise, I have myself opted to activate two-factor authentication via text message whenever I log on to my PayPal account, for added security.
It may thus well be, Bob, that the two banks that have communicated with you will actually demand that their customers are able to receive text messages in order to carry out on-line payments, but if so (and obviously I have no idea whether that is really the case, or if there will be alternatives available) that will be because of choices made by those banks, and not because the directive told them that that was how they had to do it.
The technical nitty-gritty and details on solutions are currently being trashed out by several working groups under the aegis of the European Bank Authority (see **LINK**).
That said, I personally think that while the intentions of the directive and what flows from it are on the whole good, and should pose few if any problems for a very large group of people (myself included), as in so many other instances not enough attention has been given in the implementation to workable alternatives for those who, for whatever valid reasons, really cannot (or can only with great difficulty) make use of the mainstream solutions on offer. If a person decides to be a stick-in-the-mud, he or she should perhaps not complain too hard if eventually s/he ends up with rather muddy feet and little change of view, but it is alas the case that market forces (outdated methods, alternative procedures and/or back-up options used by comparatively few are of course more expensive per use to develop and maintain than mainstream solutions) are ever too likely to make a stringent cost/benefit analysis to the detriment of those in a weak bargaining situation.
|Thread: Todays Boating|
Having experienced trouble soldering capacitor legs to a motor can, I sorted the problem by clamping a copper strip around the end of the can, trapping the capacitor legs between the strip and the can:
You can just see the ends of the legs sticking out either side of the large ground wire.
I also used this strip to ground the whole set-up to the water via the propeller shaft, as David Harrison says should be done in the article that Dave M. linked to above (cf. bottom of p. 1 and top of p. 2 in the article).
Edited By Banjoman on 02/04/2019 08:21:45
|Thread: British Motor Coaster|
A most attractive subject indeed, and as always a very pretty piece of work from your hand, Bob!
|Thread: New Projects for 2019 ??|
No. On the contrary, we were specifically asked by the the chap running that course (and whose benches and planes it were) not to lay the planes on their sides, but to put them down on their soles.
His reasoning was that the risk of damage was higher if the planes lay on their sides, as that exposed the soles to dings from whatever else might be or be put on the bench, and which might be pushed against them by accident. He said that in his view the window for accidental damage with sole-to-table (essentially) only occurs during the short act of putting the plane down (and we were firmly asked to pay good attention when doing so), while resting a plane on its side leaves the sole exposed for the duration of the time it is left on the bench.
Given that it was all his stuff, we of course followed his instructions.
Edited By Banjoman on 26/03/2019 13:44:50
|Thread: lengthen Esc cable to switch|
RTFM = Read The Fantastic(*) Manual ...
(*) Or any other adjective you can think of that also starts with an "F". Fabulous f'rinstance. Or Fine. Or Frabjous ...
Edited By Banjoman on 15/03/2019 08:47:35
|Thread: Selway Fisher|
While this is not step-by-step instructions, and the model version of the Edwardian launch does not seem to be specifically included (probably because the model plans for this one were only produced at a later date) there does seem to be a Model Boat Building in Wood manual available, written by Paul Fischer of Selway-Fischer Designs.
I have not seen the real article for myself, so cannot really comment on it, but on the web page linked to above, there is a table of content and some sample pages to look at.
In the end you are the one best placed to estimate your own capabilities for tackling a scratch build project, as you know what level of time, determination, experience, tools and other resources that you can draw on, and of course anything can be tackled if one really wants to and is prepared to put in the effort.
That said, I, too, think that the previous advice in this thread is very sound: a not too complicated kit is very likely to get you off your marks that much faster, to considerably facilitate bringing your first project to a successful conclusion, and to allow you to find out for a reasonable cost in time and money both if the hobby is one you enjoy, and how easy/difficult you find it.
Good luck and have plenty of fun
|Thread: New Projects for 2019 ??|
That is so kind and generous an offer that I hardly know what to say! I am of course sorely tempted to just say yes, please, thank you very much, and PM you my address, but before I could square with my conscience taking what in essence are family mementoes, if not heirlooms, from you and yours, I would want to be sure of a complete mutual understanding and agreement betwen us on what sort of new life they would be likely to lead in my hands.
In other words, I will PM you my e-mail address, so that we can talk things through properly first
Again, my warmest thanks for your very, very kind and generous offer!
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