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Member postings for neil howard-pritchard

Here is a list of all the postings neil howard-pritchard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: IMG_0285 (2).JPG
29/09/2008 19:19:00

hi, Brian, i have 70mm 4 bladers fitted.


Thread: Understanding plans
29/09/2008 12:27:00

sorry peter but ther is no real easy or quicker way to do it other than by using the "finger guage" method

that is to rest your pencil between thumb and fore finger so that it protrudes the required distance  , and in your case that would be 2mm and run it around the edge of thesubject, using the fore finger as the item which touches the material ti give the guage distance. giving  parallel line to the edge of the material....usually timber or card, where it works easily..but a little tricky with paper.neil.

Thread: IMG_0285 (2).JPG
27/09/2008 22:40:00
brian, any person who has built a Speedline "kit" has my admiration. i built a trent, and it wasn't easy. you'll have no problems with an imara, in that case. cheers neil.
26/09/2008 15:24:00

to tell you the truth, Brian,

I can't remember what the issues were. I think one was the badly fitting( printed wheel house parts) wheel house and another was the awkwardness of fitting the sub deckin four parts, but I haven't seen Colin's review in many a year.

These days I just follow my nose and instinct.

Perhaps if you could tell me what you have, I'll have a go for you.neil.

Thread: Understanding plans
26/09/2008 12:29:00

I have always taken that"gap" to represent the thickness of the stem post, keel and sternpost.i.e. the backbone of the ship.

if you are using a solid "backbone" including all three items mentioned above, it would be represented in a piece of timber such as ply, it would be the thickness of that "gap" on your plans.

then if the "bulkheads" or "frames" as some call them are being fixed to the back bone they can be fixed in two ways.

The first is to photocopy all your numbered frames at least once in one whole piece.

I then, myself ,fold each piece of paper down that centre line and one  different frame is cut from each photocopy following the respective numbered line so that the 2nd half is cut at the same time giving total symitry. If you have 14 frames you end up with 14 cut out paper frames, all of different shapes. they can then be glued to the timber prior to cutting.

Then they are attached to the backbone using a half housing joint. ie. half the slot is cut from the bottom end of each frame to the thicknes of the backbone, and the corresponding half slot ( the thickness of the frame) is cut from the top end of the backbone.

If you go the other way and attach the "frames" to the backbone in two halves and not a whole frame, the "gap" represents the amount of frame that has to be taken off in order to give the true "beam" of the ship rather than an exagerated beam which you would get if you cut the frame straight down the centre line.

Hope this is understandable.


Thread: IMG_0285 (2).JPG
24/09/2008 23:06:00
thanks, Brian. nice of you to say so. cheer, neil.
24/09/2008 22:20:00

what sort of re assurance would you like Brian, other than it is a very nice model  to both build and sail, with plenty of detailing with tons of space inside if you go down the electric propulsion way.

it's the third one I've built over the years,and have enjoyed building all of them.

Don't put it off, get one'll give you hours of enjoyment.


Thread: Boxwood strips
23/09/2008 08:30:00


there is a company called Twigfolly from Norfolk, UK who advertise in the back of Model Boats who seem to do that sort of thing, but only have an address, no phone or email address.

Never used them myself, but they seem to have been going for some years now.

If you want the address I'll post it for you.


Thread: Building the Caldercraft Imara
22/09/2008 11:02:00

Cheers, Martin. I'll have a look.

I'll now start sending you batches of photos of my build.I have quite a few dotted around here and there so if you have too many for your own use just let me know and I'll stop. cheers,neil.

Thread: fitz_21.jpg
21/09/2008 21:24:00
That looks superb, Robert. how long is she, and what scale have you built her to. neil.
Thread: Building the Caldercraft Imara
21/09/2008 17:19:00

hi Martin, no problems with using any of the photos at all.If you pm me with your email address I'll send you a little info about her for your files.

As for naming her Perseverance, she did servein the Royal Navy during ww2 and was named whilst under the "grey funnel line" Perseverance,and remaned so for about 8 months after she was decommisioned out of the service and waiting to be repatriated with her owners in Dar Es Salam.

It sounded a little quirkier than Imara.


21/09/2008 15:25:00
just finished one myself Martin, so if you get stuck or want some photos, just give me a shout. neil.
Thread: Suggestion for a Rookie
18/09/2008 13:25:00

canals are a great place to sail models. do it regularly so long as they are weed clear.

as for model fishing boat kits, there are a number of manufacturers that sell. billing, model slipway, mountfleet models, caldercraft/jotika all do kits. there are also a number of manufacturers who do hulls. models by design, bill wood models to name but two.

forgive me for not including all, but i'm sure other members will add their own . neil

Thread: White Metal
08/09/2008 19:54:00

hi Paul. the melting point, if 450 is about 125 - 150 degrees hotter than the white metal that I use in my pot.

Also the RTV rubber from teranti's is only guarenteed to about 350c . any hotter than that and it starts to go hard and brittle, and then cracks, so don't know whether you could use pewter with RTV rubber.

the next thing would be to use vulcanised moulds but that's a whole new and expensive ball game.

only wish I had the money for that set up!!

08/09/2008 14:40:00
I've never used pewter, Paul. What's it's melting point compaired with W/M and what's the price per kilo.cheers,neil.
08/09/2008 12:12:00
yeh, but for clumsy old sods like me, Paul who tend to knock their fittings when hanling them at the lake side, that bendiness is just the job....saves a lot of re building.take it from me.
07/09/2008 22:01:00

it's a mix of lead, tin, zinc and antimony, len.

and yes you can make your own fittings. if you want to start easily the best thing is to get hold of some RTV (room temperature vulcanising) rubber from such supplyer as Alec Teranti of Reading in Berkshire. it's quite expensive  though.

you can use old Type setting letters from a printers as your white metal if you can get old of it, or buy proper white metal for casting, again from suppliers (listed on google.) I was once talking to an old friend Frank Hinchliffe and beleive it or not, his supply of white metal in his early days of Caldercraft where the tune pipes off an old church organ that he had bought from a demolition company and was working his way through a large pile of the stuff???

You'll need some mould release spray and some old block lego to make your moulds, along with some plastecine to put your masters in.For an old melting pot you can use an old soup ladle from out of the kitchen , but don't tell the missis where it's gone, and for gawd sake don't use it again for yer tomato soup???

Teranti do a small booklet about white metal casting to help.

Once you get into it it is fun and me!! I wasn't a used car salesman?

Thread: need a custom yacht model built
03/09/2008 17:50:00

but at their age, with so many waves under the bridge they can run themselves, AND ME!!.

come on lads, we can all fantasize????

03/09/2008 17:38:00
I like mine skinny......still drool over twiggy??
03/09/2008 16:25:00

I'm digging a hole, and it just keeps getting deeper!!!

I'll give up and go back to my model??


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