Here is a list of all the postings neil howard-pritchard has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build|
thank you Eddie........much appreciate your comments.
they truly spurr me on, to receive them. cheers,
Needed to make two water valves for the fire fighting hoses fitted into recesses on the fore end of the cabin, port and starboard.
lateral thinking and the use of everyday items came into the mix, and along with some plastic tubing came into play.
take two "pin board" pins with ball ends, and snip the actual pims off .
the rest is just using differentt interfitting plastic tubing for the valve fittings, and bob's your uncle, fanny's your ant, as my old mum would say as she put a creation into the oven to bake.
the valve wheels for the two will be made from the centre of a TV areal co-axial cable sliced thinly and glued on to the brass pin.
thank you George, your comments are greatly appreciated.
however i cannot take any credit for the anchor chain. i bought that some years ago from Jotika Coldercraft by a meter length.....beautiful stuff it is too.
The "Fishermans" pattern anchor, [and from asking friends about this type, it is the only anchor that the boat I am building carried at her point in life] has now been finished as per deck brackets and holding stock and so will go for painting as soon as there is a break in the tv prog I am watching.
Then it will be put asside whilst I assess if there is anything more to fabricate and paint before i put all the bits and pieces on to the boat.
And as I am still within my proposed deadline to finish it by the end of March I am quite happy with progress.
i always, even with a humbrol enamel, spray an undercoat or filler primer first to give a key to the top coat, whether acrylic, cellulose or enamel........but never put an enamel on first, and then an acrylic or cellulose on top of your enamel...........you will just get orange peel reaction and the paint will crinkle and flake off.
hi george........Halfords rattle cans, either alluminium, chrome, silver or in the brass coloured ones......Ford Gold.
As i couldn't see a "fishermans" pattern type anchor on the plans i have for the mersey, i have been wondering about fitting one, and where/how.
But this morning
solved my dilemma by posting photos of a Mersey with one on the starboard bow.
just what i needed.............Martin, you must be a mind reader, but it has helped greatly.
here is my interpretation of the deck brackets that hold the anchor in place. i have the upright bracket and post in my box of tricks and this will be added to the fixture once anchor and brackets are painted and also fitted.
|Thread: 1/32 Mountfleet Models Sir Lancelot|
very nice work indeed.....they sail well too, if you get the weight deep down and plenty of ballast to counterweight the top hamper of the white metal fittings.
|Thread: Model Boats April 2021|
THAT is a VERY GOOD point, Colin
we all like to think we are all imortal and will flogg on like the preverbial creaking gate................but lets face it..........we are not.
And thanks for answering my question.......it all makes sense now.
Colin, has model boats steered away from the long monthly builds that once appeared in Model Boats, such as William Mowl's SS Great Britain.
my contributions were always kit reviews for the major kit producers of the day, but as there are basically only two of them these days, not counting Tony Green Steam models, kit revews are simply dying out.
but there are some very good scratch builders who could be coaxed into writing articles........but are people really interested in reading month after month a build, that is usually of a specific model.
it is only a simple step away from writing on a forum to writing in word and sending that way, instead of the old tedious way of writing in long hand, transfering into typed pages and then taking, developing and sending paper gloss photos........
but are people interested in specialist builds, such as i and others build
just interested in what you and others think.
|Thread: Bending 5mm brass rods to make driveshaft|
Are you sure that you need them to be of that large diameter..........that is one chunk of brass to bend, whether anealed or not.
because every time you bend the brass one way or another to get conformity, you loose the anealed advantage as the brass reverts back to a semi solid state again and then you have to go through the process of annealing it again to cherry red which eventually weakens it.
if i were you i would try with 3mm brass, as i am sure that would still be strong enough for you.
Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 19/03/2021 00:15:40
|Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build|
think i over did it with the number of bases that i painted for the fairleads.........but better more than less, lol...........
but i have started putting the bits together to make a whole one or more.
the fairleads have been glued to the bases and are ready for fitting to the deck of the Mersey, and evemtually the Tyne.
today was paint the parts day.
and so i taped them in to seperate colours on scrap hardboard rectangles.
then just sprayed each section of fittings.........white, black, grey. alluminium/silver and ford gold [nearest to brass/bronze]
And then.........it was down to getting the toe boards with fitted stanchions onto the deck thwarts so that there was a slight "toe in" towards the centre of the vessel.
This entailed using my linisher to sand the base of each stanchiom board to an angle to take into account the camber at the thwarts of the boat to allow the head of the stanchion to be leaning in towards the cabin. Each set needed a slightly different amount of sanding to get the same angle of "lean".
even sprayed the two colours for the whip areals, lol.
Except for a few parts which were painted earlier, all parts for the Mersey, and a few for the Tyne that were handy have all been spray painted with filler primer.
later, perhaps tomorrow I will get up early for a change and give them all a grey undercoat primer, before painting them in batches in their finished colours, black, grey, white alluminium/chrome and "brass/bronze"
Once dry, then it will be just a task od attaching them to the hulland deck, before adjusting to fit, each section of the stanchion sets.........and then these will be fitted. Hopefully by friday evening or Saturday.
Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 17/03/2021 20:54:35
you get to a stage in life, never mind model building, when you are not quite in control of your "destiny" and in model building it is exactly the same.and its two steps forward and one back.......................or in todays fiasco it was one forward and TWO back
fitted all of the pulpit rails to the to boards via the toe board brackets. i had made them from cast polyurethane resin some time back, thinking they were strong enough.......could have used some white metal ones but chanced it.........that gamble didn't pay off as one of them broke almost immediately when i accidentally dropped it on the floor and the plastic gave in, where as the brass rails didn't.
the plastic stanchions with molded brackets wont be so tender.
Hoever after a little giggery pokery and some strengthening with brass tubing [although not quite to scale] will be strong enough to stand the rogours of even Mick French's handling.
and so i fitted the rails top the toe boards and then dry fit them all to the deck so that both the pulpit rails and the tops of the stanchions sit level on the deck.
and then.........the other step backward. on looking at the life ring brackets, one U shaped holder on the bottom of the bracket had "pinged" off somewhere, and so i had to make another of those, using plasticard and heating it on the cooker to bend it.............small job, that could have not been neaded had i not been clumsy myself....
the bracket is still loose somewhere.................grrrrrr.
but at least all stanchions and rails can now be painted, ready for fitting.
the bed for the two quick release towing fairleads on the stern, with the small brass roller bollard have been sized up and the base for the roller bollard and fairlead have benn chopped down from that fitting made for the Tyne class stern fairlead and bollard........fits a treat.
theres going to be a lit of painting tomorrow, lol.
just having a play and having a dry fit of the toe boards for the aft pulpit rails......
as usual, i have made a blunder.when i sent Dave Stavros Jones the fittings for Mick French's Mersey to be painted along with his cabin and my boat, i enclosed into the pack to be painted orange, the two life ring brackets that go on the stern pulpit rails........
they are supposed to be grey, as the rails and some stanchions are.
so in fact it has allowed me to muck up Daves painting and get away with it, for i had to make some brackets this evening from plastic tube which fits around the rails and glues to the plastic of the holder. By using plastic weld glue it has crinkled the paint work around where the brackets glue.
You can see the efect of putting plastiweld on to 2 pack and cellulose/acrylic paint on photos 2 and 5.
But, because of the fact that they should be grey, the crinkled paint will be rubbed smooth and then sprayed my personal grey........Ford Polar Grey.
very pleased with them chris
they cleaned up well, of all the flashing.
the final act in this little job of moulding, was actually casting the two part polyurethane none shatter resin parts.
i layed up the second halves of the moulds this morning, AFTER i painted on to the existing surface of rubber a very thin layer of petroleum jelly [vaseline] to act as a release agent between the two faces of the mould halves, this allows them to separate very easily.
Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 14/03/2021 17:50:23
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