Here is a list of all the postings Paul Godfrey has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dutch Courage|
My Dutch Courage had it's first outing this afternoon, at the club I'm going to join - The Brentwood Model Boat Club (just 10 mins drive away, nice and handy).
All went very well indeed . Unfortunately nobody else was there to witness the event! Their small lake for scale boats is in a lovely setting, surrounded by fields on one side (with a windmill nearby), and trees on the other. Plus the weather today was ideal.
I shall be there again Sunday morning (weather permitting) to watch the competition, and to give my boat another sail afterwards (wish I'd fitted a bow-thruster!!). If anybody reading this is a member of this club & is going on Sunday, please come and say hi.
|Thread: WW1 Tribal class destroyer|
Take a look at my thread 'Building Log Facility' under the 'Building Kits' heading - I was given info to answer a question I had, and think this will answer your question also (?).
|Thread: Dutch Courage|
Thanks Neil, I'll use the sand suggestion, as I've got some to hand (why didn't I think of that?!).
Thanks Ducky, I'll make a point of getting hold of some for future builds. Thanks also for your kind comments on my Dutch Courage.
I know this is probably not best practise, but it got its hull wet for the first time tonight (in the bath), and I was so pleased that it remained bone dry inside! It also sat very well on the water, needing only something the weight of a tin of beans (a tin of beans) in the back to get it perfect. I've seen many pictures of boats with lead strips inside for ballast - where can I get hold of some? or what else can I use instead?
Thanks very much for your comments Neil & Colin, its so encouraging to receive such remarks - much appreciated.
Colin, it would absolutely fine to use as many photos as you wish!! To see my boat in the mag would be great!
Further to all my previous threads (and once again, thanks for all the advice kindly given so far), I'm pleased to say that I've finished my first ever boat.
Bearing in mind its the first time I've used plasticard, the first time I've ever soldered, etc etc, I'm quite pleased with the end result, but I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way which will help no end with my next boat, Sir Lancelot.
I have made quite a few mistakes during the build, with some major schoolboy errors as well! Too many to list, but I must mention the glazing. When everything you read states 'do not use superglue', then DO NOT USE IT!! I did initially, it wasn't so much getting it onto the visible areas of the window, but the way it seems to 'seep into' the edges of the piece, making them 'cloudy'. I had to remove them all, re-make the windows, and use clear contact adhesive (but I've still left fingerprints on the inside of the windows which I didn't notice until the roof was glued on!!).
Anyway, I've put some photos into an album, and look forward to your comments (good or otherwise! - all will be useful!).
|Thread: Preparation of wooden parts|
Unlike my Dutch Courage, my new Sir Lancelot has plenty of sheets of wood for things like the decks, bulwark supports & cappings, wheelhouse, lockers etc etc - which I was fully aware of before buying the kit.
Of course, these parts need to be sanded smooth before assembly, but my question is, should they be sealed with sanding sealer (or something else?) before or after assembly (for those areas that should NOT look like wood)? I can imagine that sealing & sanding some of the cut-out parts before assembly will allow a better finish to be achieved (for example, the bulkead panels that fit either side of the front gun support between the main & forecastle decks, and the bulwark supports).
The only parts requiring sealing on the Dutch Courage are the dowels used for the mast & bollards, so all very straightforward.
|Thread: Building Log facility?|
Thanks Neil, will do.
I should have finished my Dutch Courage by Easter, then I have a few jobs to do around the house, so will hopefully start Sir L. around June/July. D.C. has taken around 16 months to build, and I'm guessing Sir L. will take much longer!
Thanks for your info Colin.
Watch this space later in the year!
A bit later this year, I will be starting my second boat, Mountfleet's Sir Lancelot (I have received plenty of very helpful advice for my first build, Dutch Courage, under the beginners forum).
This time around, I will be taking pictures during the build, and was wondering if this site has the facility for posting a 'building log', so I can share my experiences (good & bad!) with other members. If so, would this be done under 'My Photos', or within a new forum thread? Would there be a limit on each photo size, and/or the total thread size, etc..
|Thread: Acrylic Paints - Yuk!!|
I have recently painted the control panel and other 'furniture' for my boat, the undercoat used was Halfords grey primer, and I decided to risk top coats of Humbrol dark green satin acrylic - the finish was great, with no reaction.
In my first comment in this thread, I said that the Halfords satin black (top half of hull) had run when spraying the Humbrol acrylic satin varnish, but I realise now that this was from the bulwark cappings, which I had painted with Revell acrylic paint.
So, to recap, Humbrol acrylic paints seems fine over Halfords acrylic primers/paints, but not so over Revell acrylic paints (in my experience!)
I will always spray where possible - couldn't avoid brush painting the bulwarks & supports, and the decks, as masking up would have taken forever!
When my boat is finished (couple of weeks I reckon), I'll post some pics for peoples comments (remember, it is my first ever boat!!) under a new thread.
|Thread: Drilling rudder shafts|
Based on Bob's comments, dont think I'll try drilling it after all - I will go for the 'grind the shaft' option, which will be much easier I think.
I'm quite tempted to join the 2 halves of each rudder together using screws, as then they could be removed if access to the props is required for some reason.
It's me again.
The 2 rudder shafts on my Dutch Courage require a 1mm hole to be drilled through them, into which a short length of wire is inserted to prevent the possibility of the rudders slipping on the shafts.
My Dremel (it's a Draper actually) doesn't have a chuck small enough to grip a bit this size, as is the case with my big drill. I have a cheapy bench mounted vertical drill which does grip the bit, but this is quite slow, and also wobbles somewhat! I've bought a decent tungsten bit, but dont know what I can use it in. Perhaps if I bought some thin brass tubing with i.d.of 1mm, this would allow the bit to be used (or is there an adaptor that can be bought?).
Is it me, or are these 4mm shafts overly strong!!?
|Thread: Acrylic Paints - Yuk!!|
I too have found that brush painting with acrylics can cause a 'lumpy' finish - strangely the yellow used for the bulwarks produced a smooth finish (this is a matt paint), but the red for example, which is satin, has given an awful result.
I think that, from all the articles I've read regarding the various paint types (sometimes conflicting with others!!), the message is very clear - test it on some scrap first!!!
Sounds plausible, as thinking about it the Revell paints only needed water to clean the brushes, whereas overspray (on my hands) from the Halfords sprays didn't budge when using water.
I've been at the painting stage of my first boat, Dutch Courage, for the last few weeks. I decided some time ago to use acrylics, mainly because the acrylic-based car spay paints from Halfords have had very good comments made about them.
I started off by spraying the decks & inner bulwarks with white primer. Once thoroughly dry, these areas were masked off, and the complete outer hull was sprayed in red oxide, followed by the hull above the waterline in satin black.
As for the review in Model Boats, it took several coats of yellow to get a good finish on the inner bulwarks & supports, and an equal number of coats of green to cover the decks. The yellow & green were both Revell acrylics, and the spray paints were the aforementioned Halfords.
A LOT of time spent so far, but looking good. The lettering was then applied to the hull, and I then sprayed the entire hull / bulwarks / decks with Humbrol Acrylic Satin Varnish for added protection, but to my horror, it caused the following problems:
Some areas of the yellow & green paint crazed; the red oxide was unaffected, but the satin black ran in places, over the lettering, and onto the red oxide!!
Where did I go wrong? They are all acrylic-based, so is it because they are different brands? For my Sir Lancelot, I will keep to what I trust & know - enamels!!
|Thread: Manufacturer Comparison|
I've been along to The Dockyard Model Shop in Chatham today, to look at some of their built up models (not to buy, but to see how these can look when completed). Mount Fleet's Sir Lancelot, Boston Typhoon & Steam Tug Cruiser were there, together with Caldercraft's Resolve amongst others. I also had the opportunity to look at some other smaller Mount Fleet kits still in their boxes, and I have to say that I was very impressed with the quality. So, having thought some more today, I've decided to part with a fair wedge of money, and go for Sir Lancelot (even my wife thinks it looks good, and she doesn't like boats!!).
Comments are made about Caldercraft's 1:48th version being top heavy, whereas Mount Fleet's seems to be ok - the (fairly)recent review in the magazine says it sails well, even in choppy conditions.
In the Modelboatmayhem thread mentioned above, the author doesn't seem overly impressed with the quality of Sir L. in CERTAIN areas only - however, he does seem to be a very good and experienced model builder, so maybe he has especially high expectations. Is there anyone else out there who can comment on this? Maybe since he purchased the kit, there have been some improvements?
Look forward to receiving your help!
Thanks Richard & Colin for the replies. I've read the 'revisited' reviews of the Imara in the latest mag, and was very impressed with how it looks - it does seem much more detailed than the Envoy, so maybe i've narrowed my choice down to this or Sir Lancelot!
I guess tugs are always going to be more stable due to their wider beam, (and Sir L has some heavy looking guns quite high up) - Is it just a case of ensuring the batteries are positioned as low down (i.e. flat) as possible in Sir L.? What other building techniques can be used to lower the c of g?
There is an interesting video on You-Tube of the construction & sailing of Mount Fleet's Boston Typhoon, and even this looks a little top heavy, so although I was steering towards buying Sir L, now I don't know again!!
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