Here is a list of all the postings Paul Godfrey has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Soldering suppressors to the motor|
Ashley - what wattage is the iron you use?
Thanks for your comments guys, much appreciated.
I'll give the casing a roughen-up and try this first, but if I still have problems, the Jubilee clip/cable tie idea sounds a very good solution.
Having a bit of a problem with soldering RFI Suppressors to my motor.
No problem with the terminals, but struggling with the motor casing which acts as a big heat sink, and is difficult therefore to get sufficient heat for the solder to 'take'. My soldering iron is 30w.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 16/07/2009 19:00:23
|Thread: LED's v Grain of Wheat Bulbs|
Hi Paul & 60watt.
Yes, makes sense Paul, and thanks to you both for your helpful comments.
The wheelhouse of my Sir Lancelot is approx 5in wide x 6in long x 4in high (only guessing as dont have plans with me at mo), and has 5 windows at the front and 3 each side, all around 1 inch square. How many leds do you estimate I would need based on the 12v versions available from Maplins, and what is your preferred method of attaching them to the ceiling?
The navigation lights in the kit are white metal, and as previously mentioned, I want to have working versions on Sir Lancelot. I can easily 'hollow' these out to fit the led, but what would you use for the lens? Alternatively, are working nav lights to replace the white metal items commercially available?
Thanks guys - I'll definately go down the led route.
Do you think white or yellow lights will be better for interior illumination?
I've had a super wiring diagram produced for me by Dave Millbourn at Action Electronics for my new Sir Lancelot project, to include, amongst many other things, lighting for areas within the superstructure, the wheelhouse, outside deck illumination, navigation lights, and the searchlight.
Dave has already recommended an ultra bright LED with appropriate resistor for the searchlight, but what about all the other lights?
He has also advised me that GOW bulbs give a wider angle of light compared to the narrower beam of an LED. I've also read that LED's have a very long operating life, whereas GOW bulbs have a much shorter lifespan. Bearing in mind that some lights once fitted are there for good, are LED's the way to go?
But what about resistors? I believe that each LED will need it's own resistor, unless the LED is a 12v version, and can the 2 wires from the LED be bent - if not, that's going to limit the spaces they can fit into.
Any advice / your experiences with the above will be much appreciated.
|Thread: Sir Lancelot|
Just about ready to start the build of Mountfleet's Sir Lancelot. Progress will initially be quite slow due to other commitments & forthcomming holiday. Here's a photo of the as yet untouched hull on the newly built stand:
...and here's the contents of the first bag of white metal components to be used. Note: the propellor will be replaced by a nice shiny brass item!
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 08/06/2009 18:27:34
|Thread: Propshaft Leak|
. . . . . and just to prove the point, here's a photo of the part of the plan showing the motor & propshaft layout.
The Kort Nozzle and tube support brackets dictate the angle of the propshafts, which are in fact more like 2 inches below the waterline.
I will definately add a greasing tube to my next model, possibly with a grease nipple fitted to this, so a good dollop can be easily injected.
|Thread: Dutch Courage|
Thanks Josh & Ducky for your comments.
If the pics were in a higher resolution, you could zoom in and see all the imperfections!! Oh, and Josh, I would like to take credit for the crew, but being an honest guy, I have to admit that they were bought from GT Models pre-painted!
Although I have already bought Mountfleet's Sir Lancelot as a long-term build (I will paint the crew myself for this one), I am toying with buying another tug. The club I've recently joined has a great little lake with various obstacles for steering comps etc, and I'm enjoying the challenge of trying to master this skill. I have already changed to independent control of the motors, which makes a huge difference, but didn't fit a working bow-thruster as it was my first boat.
So, my dilema. I want a smallish boat, with twin props, which I will fit a bow-thruster to. I've narrowed it down to 3: Model Slipway's Tsekoa II (a great looking boat, and does well in competitions, but an older MS kit); Model Slipway's Al Khubar (a fairly simple build I understand, and a nice size for manouevering); and finally Metcalf Moulding's Graemsay (again, a nice size, quirky looking, and space for a nice model tractor on the back!).
|Thread: Propshaft Leak|
Had an hours sailing at the lake today, and pleased to say not a single drop of water in the boat.
Whats interesting is that the boat is actually FASTER with the tubes packed full of grease, than it was with oil in them. Maybe I didn't have enough oil in them in the first place, or perhaps it seeped out, but now there won't be any leakage into the lake, which of course is a good thing.
I will definately use grease in any future boats!
No misunderstanding Mike, the inboard ends of the tubes/shafts are below the waterline, and this is exactly how it is on the plans. The tubes cannot be angled any differently, i.e. raised up inside the boat, as the outboard ends have to pass through the 'Y' frames, and be parallel with the Kort nozzles, which face directly backwards (not angled).
Not had a chance to sail this weekend, as the wife & I have been away, but hopefully will be able to test out the newly-greased tubes/shafts on Wednesday. Fingers crossed!!
Thanks again Mike, and to Peter & Rick for your comments.
Fortunately I dont have the need for Steradent tablets just yet (although it's only a matter of time I suppose..), but I do wear glasses . . . . . .
With Dutch Courage, the tubes/shafts are horizontal in the boat, and are about 1.5 inches below the waterline.
With the shafts removed, I did decide to pump grease inside them as suggested (I had a spare 'pet syringe', used for administering medicine to small animals / birds. No needle of course, just a small tapered plastic nozzle which can be dipped into the grease pot, and the grease sucked out. The nozzle is a perfect fit in the tube, and the grease can then be pushed in). With a fair amount inside the tubes, the shafts were pushed back in with the rear ends blocked, causing the grease to be forced up the shaft.
With the shafts in place, I used a 3mm piece of the silicon tube over the shaft as suggested, before fitting the props.
Initial bath testing was very successful, with no sign of any water ingress. The true test will be a long sailing session at the lake, but I feel optomistic, and much happier knowing the tubes are full of grease, not a light oil. As you say, Peter, the drag is only slight, and a small price to pay for peace of mind. I will definately modify the tube on my next boat to allow for additional grease to be pumped in.
I'll report again in due course.
Thanks again to everyone who's responded so far.
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 30/04/2009 21:23:38
|Thread: Brentwood Model Yacht & Powerboat Club|
Some pics taken at the clubs small lake for scale boats on Sunday 26th April - please see album under my photos.
|Thread: Propshaft Leak|
The inboard ends of the tubes are indeed below the waterline, but the outboard ends are above (wondered why the boats performance was, at best, sluggish . . . . . . . . ).
Thanks for all the useful info. The fuel tube suggestion is top-notch - I'll certainly give that a go. Do you think this tube will be long-lasting and leak-free? The birdlife who also occupy the lake will demand an answer!
P.s. Have you, or anyone else, heard of Hanna Stainless Steel propshafts? They sound pretty good to me!
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 27/04/2009 21:58:12
Thanks Ashley, Paul & Glynn for your replies.
I'll put a dollop of grease down the tube from the inner end, then push the shaft in from the inside (after checking it for straightness) whilst plugging the outer end with my finger until the grease or shaft pushes it away. That should give it a good coating.
Glynn, no thrust washers were included in the kit, and I didn't think to fit any (no previous experience!). Therefore, the nuts which lock against the prop and the coupling rub directly against the bearings at each end of the tube. I can see that fitting a washer at the rear should further help to prevent water ingress.
Ashley, unfortunately there's no bare shaft at the inner end. Mistake number 143 (ish!) was to mount the motors too near the propshafts, something I couldn't rectify later on as I had built, and mounted with copious P38 filler, a battery box to hold the two 6v batteries, virtually touching the motors to get it as central in the boat as possible.
Paul, the shaft/hull seal is solid & leak-free, plenty of epoxy followed when dry by plenty of P38 to give a good seal.
It is more than possible that the motor is slightly offset. When running the motors individually, however, they both sound the same, ie the port side is no noisier.
The props are contra rotating, and the port rotates clockwise. Therefore, when going forward, the thread would pump water away from the tube. Of course, when reversing, the opposite would happen, and here's the thing - after trying to minimise the end-play earlier, a test in the bath initially seemed successful, but after going into reverse, water started to come in. However, water continued to come in even when going forward (and in fact when the props weren't moving, but only an occassional drip).
I have now managed to remove the shaft from its tube, but before doing so, I was able to wiggle it about very slightly! Defect? Wear already?! I had lubricated the shafts with hypoid oil (car gearboxes & differentials), as thicker than machine oil, but thinner than grease. maybe this was mistake 144!!
The tube was, of course, full of water, so maybe the silicon grease is the way to go - I'm not worried about a bit more drag as I'm only using about half the available power, and the boat's fitted with two 6v 12ah lead batteries.
I've been reading with interest the thread 'Propshaft' started by Leslie Cook on 23rd Feb, which is going to prove to be very useful indeed as this problem has reared it's head on the second outing of my Dutch Courage.
On it's first sailing a few days ago (an hours duration or so), there was about a teaspoon of water beneath the port propshaft tube, which I was very happy with. Even better, there was nothing under the starboard tube.
Today, however, a different story. Whilst still no water from the starboard tube, around 2 - 3 egg cups full had come from the port tube, and this in around 30 mins. They were both adjusted exactly the same (about 1mm end play), but even reducing that on the problematic tube/shaft has made no difference. Does this sound like a defect in the tube/shaft?
I like the sound of the rubber washer/o-ring with a brass thrust washer solution, but It's going to be very difficult to remove the propellers due to the Kort nozzles (and the fact I used a tiny drop of superglue to ensure they didn't come loose!!). Of course, the shafts/props cannot be withdrawn backwards now, as the rudders cannot be removed.
Where can I get a selection of neoprine washers / o-rings / brass washers etc? - somewhere like B&Q ?
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 26/04/2009 17:33:32
I'm with you guys totally.
In a country where political correctness is continually rammed down your throat, how can not letting ALL these people stay be right?
|Thread: Anyone built the Slipways Tsekoa?|
Just wanted to say that I saw a model of the Tsekoa at my new club for the first time recently, and was really impressed - it's a great looking boat, and the detailed large crane is superb.
Having built Model Slipway's Dutch Courage and thoroughly enjoying the experience, I have already chosen this to be my next model after 'Sir Lancelot' (although that might take me some time to complete!!)
|Thread: Dutch Courage|
I will be taking some photo's of it in the water hopefully on Sunday, if its not raining, and will add them to the album.
I will also dust off the telephoto lens to take some pics of the clubs 'steering competition' on Sunday morning, and will put these in a new album, to which I'll add some pics of various boats I've taken this year & last year at The Model Engineering Exhibition at the Ally Pally.
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