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Member postings for Paul Godfrey

Here is a list of all the postings Paul Godfrey has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Sir Lancelot
20/09/2009 20:09:08
The three switches are attached with double-sided tape to a plasticard strip, which is slid down between two channels into place. The three circuit boards are attached to a removable 'shelf', with other components below this attached with velcro. The fan controller is attached to the side opposite the smoker oil, also with velcro. The receiver will be attached to the inside of the front section, adjacent to the oil container, and there is ample space for the steam engine sound unit. The next photo shows the circuit board and switches removed:
 

With the shelf removed, access to the other components is easy. The amplifier is fitted to the lower rear section of the tray, with a cut-out allowing the heat-sink a good amount of clearance. Above this you will see that slots have been cut into the rear section of the tray. These allow the various wires to exit the tray, with connections being on the outside of the tray. A slotted strip has been made, and bonded across the deck opening near the servo, and this will hold the wires and connectors that join to the wires exiting the tray. So, when removal of the tray is required, the various wires (to the batteries, motors, speaker etc) can be disconnected, and the ends wont drop down into the hull - instead, they will remain in their correct positions allowing easy re-connection.
 

The next photo shows the oil cut-off valve positioned, but not yet bonded in place. As previously mentioned, I want to be able to open and close this without removing the superstructure, so have devised a mount made from plastic into which the valve has first been bonded. Two plasticard 'discs' have been made, and glued around the valve handle, and eventually a short length of square-section tube will be bonded into another disc which will then be glued onto the front of the handle. This tube will, as mentioned before, allow the handle to be turned by a long thin allen key, inserted through a hole in the superstructure side (a plastic tube will be fitted between the side of the tray and the valve, allowing the allen key to find the square-section tube easily). Does all that make sense?!! Here's a photo:
 

I have also now fitted a 'cage' around the batteries, which will prevent them from moving any further forward (I really cant see the need now to have them move any further forward for ballasting reasons), and will also stop them from moving left or right in the unlikely event that they are thrown off their 'rails'. The cage is made from lite ply, and strengthened with strip wood, giving a light yet strong structure. It has been attached to the baseboard with glue and screws, and there are two side supports for added strength:
 

The front battery will have a strap around it length-ways, to be used to pull it out when removal is required. There is sufficient room down the right side for the wiring.
The final picture shows the whole boat as it is now.
 
 
Thats all for now.  Paul

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 20/09/2009 20:14:42

20/09/2009 19:18:08
I've now completed as much of the electronics tray as I'm going to for now, all of the components (except for the receiver and steam engine sound module) have been fitted, and it just remains for these two items to be fitted, along with the wiring. These are the items used (minus the fan which has already been fitted as per the previous updates):
 

Not including the bags, the item top-left is the Power Distribution Board, below that is the Schottky Diode Board, and the Single Fuse Board. To the right of the P.D.B.are the three Single Relay Switches (one each for the two lighting circuits, and the other for the amplifier), and below these is the fan controller. Top right is the Multi Controller, beneath is the Audio Mixer/Booster, and finally the Steam Whistle/Horn unit.
The next photo shows the items fitted to the tray:
 

11/09/2009 18:57:23
Neil,
 
You're very welcome. I forgot you have a Sir Lancelot to build (it's an age thing), so if you want measurements for anything I have done, you only have to ask. I have made a slight improvement to the oil bottle holder. In the photo of the individual smoker housing components, and the drawing, the oil bottle is slotted in to a plasticard 'cage' made up of a back, sides, and a smaller front piece, together with a bottom piece with a hole in it, into which the nozzle fits. Previously, this unit then slotted into another bracket attached to the side of the tray. Now though,  the bracket has been removed, and the cage has been itself glued to the side of the tray. To allow the bottle to be lifted out with the feed tube still attached, I have cut a vertical slot in the front of the cage, and a slot in the bottom where the nozzle fits into the hole. Here's a photo:
 

So, to remove the oil bottle and the smoker housing, I remove the chimney, then lift the smoker housing up at the same time as the oil bottle, directing the feed tube through the slots I've now cut.
 
Dave,
 
The speaker box I've made does have a back - the photo's flash has caused a shadow and perhaps given the impression it doesn't. The only opening is at the front end for the wires. The box is now well and truly glued into place, but there will be some more photos of hull interior once I've put in the electronics, prior to the deck being fitted. Thanks for the tip regarding the ducting tube - I'll make this addition in due course.
 
Cheers, Paul
10/09/2009 20:57:57
As you will see, my drawings are not exactly top-notch, but I hope they show the smoker unit in adequate detail. I have not included measurements, as each boat will be different, but I first built the fan & smoker housing base using the fan dimensions as a guide. The height of the housing was governed by the smoker 'element' being sufficiently spaced above the fan to allow the fan to be lifted off its four corner mounts, should the need arise due to malfunction etc. The top of the housing is roughly level with the smoker element. The 'door' at the front can, as previously mentioned, be lifted up (after the angular 'chimney' has been detached from the housing), allowing access to both the fan & the smoker. The drawing shows the smoker support which is glued between the housing sides, and consists of a 'HH' shaped piece of plasticard (so shaped to allow a good flow of air from the fan), down the middle of which are glued two pieces of plasticard virtually side-by-side. The metal support strip of the smoker can then be squeezed between these two pieces of plasticard to hold it firmly in place.
 

The smoker, fan (and fan speed controller) were obtained from Action Electronics.

As with all the photos in this thread, click on them for a larger image - you'll need to with these sketches!!
 
Paul.
 
10/09/2009 18:06:27
Hi Neil,
 
Leave it with me - I'll break out the ruler & pencils!! I don't have a C.A.D. program unfortunately, so my drawings will have to do!
 
Regards, Paul.
09/09/2009 21:43:16
This photo shows the components of the smoker housing I have designed:
 

The unit second from the left is basically a box, with 4 short lengths of brass tube bonded to the base onto which the fan fits. The smoker element sits in a slot above, and of course, both items can be easily removed. On the left of the photo is the front door, which slides down channels on either side, with a hole for the smoke oil tube, and a cut-out at the bottom for the wiring. The tall unit in the middle sits on top of the fan housing, and eventually will be extended higher by plastic tube once the exact position of the funnel has been established. The oil container on the far right fits into the unit to the left of it, and this in turn slots into a housing built into the electronics tray, as can be seen in the final photo for this installment:
 

The lower fan/smoker element housing is attached by a single screw, and the upper extension is screwed to this. When changing the oil container, this and the fan/smoker housing can be removed together without disconnecting the oil pipe, making this task easier (and less messy).
 
You will also see a small green item in the photo of the individual components, this is the oil pipe shut-off valve, and what I want to avoid is to have to remove the superstructure just to open or close this valve.  I will therefore bond this valve to the vertical partition just below the oil container nozzle, at such an angle that by inserting a long allen key (or small square-section rod) through a small hole in the side of the superstructure, it will slide into a section of square-section brass tube which has been bonded to the valve 'handle'.
 
That's all for now. Not sure at this stage whether to continue fitting out the tray with all the gizmo's (I do have everything except the new steam sound unit which Mr Milbourn is currently designing - that's why my wiring diagram on Action's web site doesn't have this included!), or maybe fit the main deck. 
 
Paul.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 09/09/2009 21:53:59

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 09/09/2009 22:01:13

09/09/2009 21:23:23
I do like to have good access to the components used in the build of any radio control model - there's nothing worse than having something fail that you can't get to without hacking things about to gain access. This very much applies, of course, to Sir Lancelot. Unlike my Dutch Courage, which has super access to all the 'gubbins', Sir Lancelot is at the other end of the scale, and this has caused a lot of head scratching!. I've already discussed the way that the batteries can be installed/removed, and the next thing to think about was the speaker. In the end, I built a box from liteply, angled at one end to allow the following installation:
 

This has been glued to the propshaft tube support seen in previous photos, and a new cross-beam seen just behind the oiling tube in the above photo. The screws which attach the speaker to the box are easily accessible, and removal (should it ever be needed) is straightforward after the rudder servo has been lifted out. The opening at the front end of the box allows the wires to be easily attached.
 
I have also now built the electronics 'tray' as mentioned in my last installment, and the next two photos show it in it's basic form:
 


Referring to the second photo, you can see that there are 4 sections seperated by the pencil lines. From left to right, the first allows clearance of the rear-most of the two 12v batteries; the second utilises the full depth available and will house, amongst other things, the smoke system (see next pics), the next section is raised to clear the motor (the two angled supports go either side of the motor), and finally the last section sits just above the propshaft couplings. As you can see, plenty of space for all the electronics - further internal dividers (like p.c. boards), possibly shelves, will eventually be incorporated to house the components, and these of course will all be removable.
 
Slots/holes will be made in the rear end of the tray, and it will be here that all of the connectors required to allow easy removal of the tray will reside. These are:
 
1) The rudder Servo lead,
2) The wires to the batteries,
3) The motor wires,
4) The speaker wires,
5) The two lighting circuits.
 
More of this at a later stage. Here's a photo of the tray resting in the deck opening:
 

It will, in due course, be attached to blocks bonded to the coamings (and yes, I have allowed for the thickness of the coamings when measuring the width of the tray!!), and will therefore be suspended just above the battery, motor & coupling.
 
Next is the smoker housing.
28/08/2009 20:51:49
Thanks for your comments Bob.
 
I'll time it's completion for the spring. . . . . . . .2012!!!
 
Paul
Thread: I don`t like.....?
27/08/2009 21:05:36
On a more positive note, I'm really enjoying building 'Sir Lancelot'.
 
Maybe it's because it's only my second boat, or that it is the first with wooden decks, superstructure etc (Dutch Courage is virtually all plastic).
 
Perhaps it's because I'm fitting a lot more in the way of electronics, and am spending alot of time planning the installation of these, the smoker, the speaker, the batteries etc etc, and having to work out how to access them all easily.
 
It could also be that I'm taking photos as I go, and sharing them on this forum site.
 
My first boat is a tug, this is a WW2 minesweeper, I think the next will be Graupner's 'Parat' with Voith Schneider drives, so maybe variety will help prevent the dreaded boredom!!
 
I only do about 30 to 45 minutes per weekday, so I'm always looking forward to continuing the next day!
 
The amount of work left to do is daunting, so I just treat every section of the boat as a separate model, and concentrate on this rather than look too far ahead.
 
Paul
 
Thread: Sir Lancelot
24/08/2009 19:19:21
Thanks Barry, appreciate your comments, and I'm glad you're enjoying it.
 
I'm trying to describe what I do in as much detail as possible, especially any problems I encounter (due either to my inexperience, or the kit itself), and the solutions I come up with. This way, other beginners, or people thinking of building this kit, can get an insight into what's involved.
 
Hope you're a patient man, Barry, as this build may take some time!
 
Regards, Paul.
23/08/2009 17:21:55
A little more progress made. Here's the hull as it is now:
 

The remainder of the main deck supports have now been fitted, together with various strengthening pieces, as shown below.
 

The central cross-beam just above the motor was cut out only when the whole support structure for the main deck had thoroughly dried. The next photo shows one of the bilge keels, which I decided to make from plasticard rather than ply. I did not like the idea of a piece of wood, constantly in the water, and only held on by a few pins and a thin strip of wood above and below the joint to the hull. I instead made the keel with five 'tongues' which fit inside five slots made in the hull, and once the expoxy had dried, packed the tongues all around with P38 filler.
 

 The keel 'tongues' can be seen in the next photo, along with the two battery boxes made from plasticard. As mentioned earlier in this log, the boxes can be slid along on 'rails' to get them under the main deck, and to allow easy removal. How far forward they are allowed to slide will be determined by the eventual ballasting of the boat.
 

 And finally for this installment, the rudder servo and linkage.
 

My next task will be to construct a plasticard 'tray' for all the electronics, which will fit in the deck opening, beneath the superstructure. This tray will utilise as much space as possible (width, length & depth), and apart from the electronics, will also house the smoke generator. It will be easily removable for access to the batteries, motor etc. All will become clearer - watch this space!
 
Thread: Swine Flu
08/08/2009 19:56:28
Neil, if it was winter, the news programs would be dominated by the impending threat of 2mm of snow, which of course would be an absolute disaster for everyone, and would necessitate posting reporters to every town in the UK, and using up at least 90% of every news bullitin !!
 
Paul
Thread: Sir Lancelot
03/08/2009 19:22:49
I'm glad you answered Ashley's question Barry, as I didn't know the specs!!
 
These are  Dave Milbourn's (who designed my wiring diagram for me) comments regarding this recommended motor:
 
The motor shown is around £30 and is absolutely ideal for this model and prop BUT it is too fast on 12v. Fortunately our P93 Multicontroller can be set to give 50% (i.e. like 6v) output from a 12v input – you just set a couple of switches in the unit to a given position and away you go.
 
Paul
02/08/2009 16:38:20
Two months gone, and some more pictures of progress to date. The first shows the hull with initial cleaning-up done, ports cut out, etc.
 

Here is a close-up of a deck support strip, showing cuts I made to make bending and curving it that much easier. Something I did on my Dutch Courage was to sand, fill, and sand smooth the inner bulwarks BEFORE fitting the deck support strips, and as this worked well, I've done it here also. It does make sanding the P38 easier, and it's then just a case of scoring the area to which the strip is glued. Note that the instructions said to mark the hull for the deck support strip 32mm from the top edge - this would have been some 7mm too low!!
 

The next shows the baseboard, made by measuring the available width at points along the bottom of the hull, to keep it as flat as possible. Note the 3/4 x 1/2 wooden bearer bonded to the centre line of the hull, to which the baseboard is attached, and also the long thinner section at the bow, onto which trays containing the batteries & lead weight can be lowered through the deck opening & slid forwards (as access to this area will be very limited once the deck is fitted).
 

Here's the motor & propshaft etc, including oiling tube.
 

 And lastly, the prop, rudder and tiller. Referring back to photo 2 in this thread showing the unfitted rudder, rather than just have the vertical rod pass through a section of captive brass tube as per the instructions, I first glued a thinner piece of brass tube over this rod, which in turn snuggly fits inside a larger diameter piece of tube bonded to the hull. For me, this just gives it somewhat more strength as I could imaging the rudder vertical rod bending/twisting.
 

 Look closely, and you can just see the two brass tubes in the next pic.
 

Next will be the rest of the deck supports, the keels, and the battery containers.

Edited By Paul Godfrey on 02/08/2009 16:54:26

Thread: Twin Batteries
30/07/2009 22:12:57
Thanks Mike
 
I need all the help I can get when it comes to electrics - hence the wiring diagram kindly produced for me by Action!
 
Regards, Paul
Thread: Swine Flu
19/07/2009 21:52:42
I also believe that what will be, will be. I work in an office building which has around 250 people in it, I go into town at lunchtime, into shops, supermarkets, pubs......As Neil and Ashley say, there's no point in worrying about it as there's nowt that you can do, except stay at home and lock yourself in - and I do not want to do that (nor would my employer!!)
 
Paul
Thread: Twin Batteries
19/07/2009 21:40:26
Thanks for your replies - most helpful.
 
I suppose the thing to do is run down the batteries, and try a simultaneous charge, then test each battery with a meter.
 
In any case, I'm going to adopt the method for ballasting the front of the boat (which is somewhat inaccessable when the deck's in place) as recommended by Mountfleet, namely to use a 'tray' which can be slid up the front end of the boat on 'runners', and secured by a wing-nut fitted to a bolt bonded to the base-board. I can attach both batteries to this tray for easy removal (both for charging, and for easier transporting of the boat), and now knowing how to connect them, can make up a 'Y' lead for the positive terminals, and another for the negative terminals, with a single connector for each lead allowing easy removal from the power board.
 
Paul
Thread: Soldering suppressors to the motor
19/07/2009 21:15:10
Thanks Paul
 
Had no idea they could be picked up for that sort of price.
 
Paul
Thread: Twin Batteries
18/07/2009 18:45:50
Its me once again, and so soon!!
 
I have had a wiring diagram produced for me by Dave Milbourne at Action Electronics (as I may have mentioned before), which uses a 12v 12ah battery to power everything - the rc equipment, lights, sound, smoke generator & fan.
 
My problem is that this size of battery is quite a lump, and in fact wont fit through the opening in the deck. Even if it did, it's a bit high for my liking (need to keep the weight in the boat low down as poss.).
 
So, I've decided I'll buy two 12v 7ah batteries, which are much narrower, and can be laid flat one next to the other.
 
My questions are: how do you conect the two batteries to maintain 12v (and not 24v), and will I need to disconnect both batteries to charge them (I ask this because one of the batteries will be slid up the front of the boat, and I dont really want to get it out when they need charging).
 
Many thanks, Paul
Thread: Soldering suppressors to the motor
18/07/2009 18:22:20
Thanks guys.
 
I've managed to get the job done, using a combination of the methods suggested.
 
I didn't have a steel bar to heat up, so used a 6 inch nail, which allowed the solder to partially take to the casing. I then used my blow torch (unfortunately I dont have one with a fine flame like TFC - not yet, anyway!), a quick blast was all it took to finish the job off.
 
Thanks again to everyone who's kindly given advice.
 
Paul
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