Here is a list of all the postings Paul Godfrey has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sir Lancelot|
Cont. . . . . . .
Here's the cleaned-up white metal components, seperately bagged, for the foredeck:
The next photo shows the 2 winches. The parts were painted and weathered prior to assembly, and the 'rope' (1mm in this case) was purchased, again on e-bay. Once applied to the drums, the rope was painted the rust colour, then when dry, lightly painted over with silver to achieve the desired effect:
The next photo shows the fairleads & bollards:
And here are the 2 watertanks. The kit includes stripwood, around 15mm square, pieces of which are laminated together then dressed down to achieve the correct size. I decided however, to construct the tanks by building a box from 0.8mm ply, strengthened on the inside prior to fitting the 'lid' with PVA glue run down the joints (and will used the same method for the various storage containers etc throughout the boat). The pipes are made from 1.5mm brass wire, and all other components are white metal:
The next pic is of the anchor, chain and associated fittings. The chain is made up from individual links as can be seen in the earlier photo of the white metal parts. These links were individually painted before assembling the chain:
And finally, the painted and weathered stanchions:
You can see that my boat will be quite rusty, but weathering them has really 'brought them to life' when compared to how they were just painted grey.
The next stage as far as the hull is concerned, is to spray it with coats of RonsealPolyeurethane Varnish (possibly satin, but probably matt - undecided as yet) which will need to be done before fitting any further parts to it. I will be away on holiday the week after next, and will apply the varnish when I come back - this will give plenty of time for the enamel paints to fully harden.
In the meantime, I will start on the anchor windlass, and will also bend the foredeck handrails to shape (new wire purchased, as that supplied with the kit is very thin and too easily bent). I will firstly need to paint & fit the 2 ladders between the foredeck & the main deck, either side of the gun platform support, as these dictate the angle of the handrails in this area.
I will then construct the forward gun, and finish off the gun platform.
Since my last post around a month ago, I've been painting the hull & decks, and whilst waiting for the coats of paint to dry, I've also been working on the various items which will be fitted to the foredeck. The paints used so far (all from the Humbrol enamel range) are as follows:
147 Light Grey - matt (hull, bulwarks, gun platform & support, etc).
140 Gull Grey - matt (foredeck).
153 Insignia Red - matt (lower hull).
88 Deck Green - matt (main deck & gun platform floor).
85 Black - satin (waterline stripe, etc).
113 Rust - matt (as per the name!).
82 Orange - matt (used for fresh rust).
For the records, I used a new compressor (which has a 3 ltr tank) bought from e-bay, which together with 2 double-action airbrushes, cost around £95. Brilliant!. I have used, however, a Badger 250-4 with an adaptor for all spraying done to date, as this can cover larger areas more quickly. As this is the first time I have ever used a spray gun/airbrush, I did a little practising on scrap material first!!.
I have found from experimentation that with matt paints, the mix can be 2 parts paint to 1 part thinners. I'm sure that gloss would probably be more like 1:1 as it is thicker.
All spray painting was done in a heated shed, and once dry (left overnight), the boat was brought into the house for the paint to fully cure. As I wanted to spray with as much daylight as possible, this was done at weekends only, and the weeks gap in between allowed the paint to completely dry before the next stage.
A few photo's, followed by a description of what order I did things in:
As mentioned in my previous post, I started by painting the inner bulwarks, bulwark supports & capping rails (underside & top) by hand, with the Light Grey. This ensured I got into every nook & crannie, and I must say that using Humbrol enamels was the right choice for me, as coverage was superb, even from just one coat.
I then sprayed both decks & the bulwarks etc with the same colour, giving the bulwarks and supports their final coat, and the decks an undercoat onto which the Deck Green could be applied.
The entire hull was then given 2 coats of the Light Grey. The best way I found to do this was to lay the boat on it's side, and spray one side at a time. The reason for this is that there are several rubbing strakes & plating on the hull, and painting the boat on it's side ensured complete paint coverage.
The next weekend saw the lower Red go on, again 2 coats, and again half the hull painted at a time.
The black waterline strip was first marked onto the hull using the usual method of a stand with a pencil attached at right-angles. I have made the stand with a vertical piece of 1 inch-square wood, bonded to a wood base, around 4 x 4 inches in size. The pencil is held onto the vertical piece of wood with a clamp, which allows for any adjustment required. Once the 6mm Tamiya masking tape had been applied (VERY tricky due to the rubbing strakes etc), the black paint was applied by brush - 2 coats.
The main deck was then brush-painted with the Deck Green (3 coats), and the foredeck with the Gull Grey (2 coats).
Next were the pennant numbers, which are supplied in the kit, and the bow depth markings which are from BECC, and these can be seen in the next photo:
The bare areas of the main deck are where the 3 prined ply overlays will be fitted.
The hull and decks have yet to be weathered in the above photos.
Since my previous posting, the gun platform required a little more work prior to painting. This consisted of fitting the 0.8mm ply rim, and the 2 platforms for the storage boxes. The manual & plans are lacking in information regarding the storage box supports, and although I took dozens of photos of Mountfleets own Sir L. at the Warwickshire Model Boat Show in November last year, I was still none the wiser. (I've also looked at various reviews of the model, but none show this area in detail). So, modellers licence prevailed, and I designed my own supports which are as follows (note that the platform has had some weathering applied to it):
Thanks for your kind comments, Wallace.
I think you'll agree that there are some parts which don't fit quite right (or perhaps it's me!), but there are ways around these problems, and makes it more of a challenge.
Your's is coming along very nicely indeed, and I very much look forward to seeing photos of it in the water later in the year. In the meantime, I'll keep looking at your build with interest (and wishing mine was nearing the launching stage as well!)
My next posting will not be for a few more weeks, but it will be a lengthy one!
All the best, and happy new year to you too.
Many thanks for your comments Andy & Robin.
Andy - the boat WILL be ready for it's maiden voyage on new years day - 2012 !!
I hope I've struck the right balance between photos and text. Although a photo can be worth a hundred words, some things (well, quite a few actually!) also need an explanation. If anything I've said / will say in this log helps someone, that will be great.
Robin, perhaps when I build my next boat, Paul can buy the exclusive rights to my build log !!
Do both have a good Christmas. Regards, Paul
I've now fitted the capping rails to the top of the bulwark and supports. The rear section is a 'U' shaped single piece, and one of the plywood sheets within the kit has this drawn onto it - however, before cutting it out, I measured this part, as it appeared to be wider than the hull. This turned out to be the case! (I'm watching with much interest another Sir Lancelot build on the Mayhem site, and it would appear that the builder has also encountered this problem).
My solution was to place a piece of thick paper across the rear of the hull, and crease this around the edge to give me the exact profile of the capping rail section required. This was then cut out, transferred onto the ply, then the inner edge drawn to give a uniform width of 9mm. This method was also used for the capping rail pieces along the sides of the boat. The forward -most pieces, which flare out to 18mm and curve upwards sharpely, were cut across the grain to allow easier bending of these sections. The following photo shows the Rear sections of the capping rails:
Once the forward capping rails had been fitted and flared into the foredeck, this deck could then be 'plated' using the same method as previously described:
You can see that the support for the gun platform has now been trimmed to the correct size and angle - the top edge is cut at 90 degrees, and the lower edge is angled to allow for the curve of the deck. The platform will be parallel with the bottom of the boat, and will be horizontal when the boat's in the water.
I wanted to fit this support to the deck before attaching the platform to it for two reasons: 1) With the top of the tube accessible, I have been able to re-inforce the bond to the deck by pouring in some extra epoxy, to give a really strong joint,
2) I will probably add some further strips of rivetted paper to where the support attaches to the white metal parts and the bulkheads, and access is much better without the platform in place.
On the downside, the platform has eight support brackets which need to be fitted to the underside of it, and this would have been tricky to say the least with the platform in place. I therefore decided to fit these first, by drawing around the support tube (before it was attached to the decks) on the underside of the platform, then fitting the brackets up to this line. The following photo shows what I mean:
Because the tube supplied isn't exactly circular (this cannot be seen, except when looking at the end of the tube, and therefore once the platform is eventually fitted, this won't matter), I marked both the support tube & platform to indicate the front, so it can be fitted in the exact same position. The next pic shows the platform placed onto the support tube ( When the time comes to fit it permenantly, a piece of lite-ply around 1/8 inch will be cut to fit inside the top of the support tube, and once bonded into position, the platform will be screwed onto it)
And finally for now, an overall photo of the boat:
The next plan of action will be to paint the hull & decks. I will initially hand-paint the inner bulwarks & supports, and will then spray over these and the decks, followed by the hull, with the light grey to be used for the final colour. This will act as an undercoat for the decks which will be the appropriate shade of green. The lower section of the hull will be painted the correct shade of red, then the black stripe at the waterline.
All the best (& happy Christmas), Paul.
Thanks for that Andy, much appreciated.
Next post in a couple of weeks.
Thanks very much Peter.
I'm pleased with how they've come out. Probably took around 10 hours of work to prepare and fit the deck 'plates', but certainly worth it!
I've now completed the plating of the main deck. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the recommended method (as of course I was!), this involves cutting 'plates' from art paper, which is included in the kit, and using something like a blunted dart to press in rivet detail from (what will become) the underside of the plates. Each plate was marked with a line about 3mm from it's edges, and a mark made every 5mm along these lines for each rivet. The rivets were then punched in, and I estimate there are around 1500 of them! These plates are then stuck onto the deck with pva glue, and I must say look very realistic (Don't forget to click on the photos for a closer view).
Next on the agenda was the bulwark supports, and these proved somewhat tedious! Each one had to be made-to-measure from 0.8mm plywood, sealed with sanding sealer on one side first, then once dry, on the other side. After sanding with fine wet & dry, they were glued on with thick cyano.
I then made the decision to fit 'rivetted' plates either side of the bulwark supports, made from 3mm strips of art paper in the same way as the deck plating. I do not know whether this ship had these, but I've seen them on other ships of a similar age, and in any case, think they will look good, so that's good enough for me!! Each strip is 1 inch long, and as there are 46 bulwark supports, 92 are required - over 7 1/2 feet in total, with a rivet every 5mm!!
Unfortunately, the rivets dont show up particularly well on the following photos due to the camera flash.
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 05/12/2009 18:55:31
|Thread: New Photographic Competition|
How about a night-time photo theme?
There must be loads of illuminated boats out there. Throw in a moon-lit lake - lovely!
|Thread: Enamel Paints|
Cheers Robin, I've just ordered one with the 2 airbrushes, which only cost an extra £9.
My wife was stuck for something to buy me for Xmas, so she's kindly agreed to pay for this (downside is I won't get to play with it until then!!)
Thanks again, and will see you soon.
|Thread: Sir Lancelot|
Many thanks Richard.
ACTion have been extremely helpful, and I wouldn't hesitate using them again for my next project.
More photos & an update to follow in a couple of weeks.
Edited By Paul Godfrey on 27/11/2009 17:28:05
|Thread: Enamel Paints|
Thanks for all your comments chaps.
Glad I asked about the tyre thing - one less option to consider!
Many thanks Dave.
Strangely enough, I have a 2 year old, but unused and still in its box, Badger 250-4 !!! Although as you say it has a larger than normal Jar, I didn't realise it was man enough to use for a large hull.
Just need to treat myself to a compressor. However, in the airbrush instructions it states that, with the appropriate adaptor, you can use a car tyre pumped up to 40psi. I wonder how long this would last before the tyre needed pumping up again??
Thanks for your kind words Neil, and for your advice Ashley - much appreciated.
Thanks Neil, didn't know they did that.
I hope that any potential purchaser of your Sir Lancelot isn't put off by my build log !!
|Thread: Balsa wood supplier|
SLEC is a supplier of various hard & soft woods (along with other items for modellers), who I used alot in my model aircraft days.
Just Google 'SLEC' for their website, they sell at model shows, and also by mail order.
|Thread: Enamel Paints|
My current build, Sir Lancelot, will be painted entirely with Humbrol enamels (not those horrible acrylics I used on the Dutch Courage!). In the not too distant future I will be painting the hull, bulwarks and deck, so I thought it would be a good time to ask a few questions on the subject.
1) I take it that Humbrol no longer sells the spray cans of paint, as I can't locate them anywhere. So, I will be looking to purchase an airbrush & compressor. What type should I be looking for? I will need it to be able to spray the (56 inch) hull, and smaller areas also. Please note - value for money is very important!
2) I will be using matt paints - is undercoating necessary on the hull, the white metal components, or anything else?
3) Can anyone recommend a particular brand of varnish that they have used with Humbrol enamels (I'm undecided on whether to use matt or satin varnish), and if it comes in spray cans, or the airbrush will be needed for this as well.
Many thanks, Paul.
I too believe in breaking down the build into mini 'sub-kits'. Take my Sir Lancelot for example, it's a long term build, and if I try to envisage the huge amount of work required to complete her, I would probably break down and cry!! So, I just concentrate on the next task only (but taking into account that forward planning in some areas is essential).
What has helped me the most, though, is having a build log on this forum. Not only does this mean that the hobby goes from being just boat building, to photography, writing, sharing experiences, and hopefully being helpful to someone, but it also spurs me on to make an even better job of the build, as many experienced eyes are viewing my efforts!
|Thread: Sir Lancelot|
A little more progress to report.
The following photo shows the main & forward decks now fitted, with the bulkheads in place either side of what will become the front gun mounting column.
Please note that both the front gun mount and the fiberglass superstructure moulding have not had any work done on them as yet.
The three printed plywood deck overlays have just been rested on the main deck at this stage, so that their outlines can be drawn around, and it will be to these lines that the deck plating will be fitted (ie the overlays will eventually be glued directly onto the plywood deck surface, and not onto the plating pieces).
The next pic shows the portholes fitted to the bow of the boat, which become inaccessable once the forward deck and bulkheads have been fitted. I therefore decided to paint the portholes in the eventual hull colour, fit the clear acetate behind (cut oversize & strengthened around the edges with P38) before fitting the deck. All I will need to do when painting the hull is to mask off the portholes.
The next two photos show the method adopted to mount the front end of the electronics tray.
And finally for this brief installment, the electronics tray in place. You can see a plasticard 'shelf' at the rear also, but unlike the front which has mounting holes, the rear just rests on wooden supports fitted either side.
Many thanks, once again, for your comments Barry.
It all seems to be going ok at the moment, a major c**k-up MUST be on the cards soon!!
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