Here is a list of all the postings JC Uknz has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Old Chinese Junk|
There are numerous styles of sails for junk vessels so a table mat might just be suitable.
Your photos were slow uploading and really they are too neat and tidy and 'western'. the Genuine junk was very low tech to be cheap to build and rig. The booms reduce the stress on the sails so they can be virtually anything and not really a 'nice picture' Sorry but you seem to have a good hull which deserves a more true to reality rig.
If you want to research possible rigs I suggest getting a book from the public library or National Library Service if you have such a thing in the UK.
There is a blog on Yahoo but since I have sold my yacht have dropped my connection to it.
The authority on junks and their rigs was called Rochester I think
A search for 'Junk Rig' on Wikipedia brings up numerous references, some contemporary western use but also Asian variety.'
Edited By JC Uknz on 23/06/2013 09:30:39
|Thread: Newbie looking for steam plant|
These people make both castings and machined and RTR engines
If you get a copy of Model Boats magazine I am sure you will find adverts for other suppliers who have skipped my memory as I write
Edited By JC Uknz on 07/12/2012 07:56:27
|Thread: Sheets .... endless or rubber tethered?|
thank you IAN. Till now I have had my sheets attached on deck and simply had rudder control but want to go to the next step with this boat. The boat will be Junk Rig or Multi Battened lugsail with just the one sail, hopefully with working reefing. An earlier 'Footie' always tried to immitate a submarine in scale 'hurricane' winds often available on our pond..
I was wondering about the tension against the winch with the rubber band and I will seriously investigate if I can make the set-up removable. The hull is vacuum moulded in 1/12scale of a 25ft comodious trailer sailer [ floating caravan] but with great lines for racing [ 1:1 boat ]
If you first make the centred cone and then raise it at the join between the edges until the other side is vertical.
Hopefully find a book or block of wood slightly lower, the distance between the lead of the pencil you have and its outside, than the height need to raise cone side to vertical.
Traverse the pencil set-up around the cone.*
open cone and cut along pencil mark and you have the template for the cone you want to make. If it needs to be bigger or smaller then you could get a plan printing shop to copy and adjust the printed size for you. If it is smaller than A4 or A3 you could probably scale it in your computer?
Printers today often will make same sized prints using several sheets if it is bigger than A4.
*You may well have the proper gadget for doing this marking out in your workshop?
I think it is known as a height gauge? Model boaties use one to drawn waterlines along their hulls.
This in my ignorance, I don't know how to make the centred cone in the first place, strikes me as being a bit more accurate than the drawing above?
Oh DEAR! I've just noticed Kimo... told you all that with fewer words already
Edited By JC Uknz on 24/03/2011 08:09:50
Edited By JC Uknz on 24/03/2011 08:13:07
|Thread: Sheets .... endless or rubber tethered?|
Having just bought my first Hitech sheet controller [ sorry 'winch servo'] I discover I have the option of an endless cord or a single run with rubber tether on end.
What if any are the pros and cons of each method in relationship to a single mailsail [ no jib] ?
|Thread: toying with an idea for a boat|
But it is more fun having an idea and creating it from scratch assuming you have the drawing skills or CAD programme. If you still have the plans in the other scale how about approaching a plan printing outfit to blow them up for you. Or as when I discovered the advertising for a sailing boat kit misleading [ length was LOA not hull length and it had a long bowsprit ] I put the wooden frames in my scanner and then doubled their size in the computer..
|Thread: Wiring a speed controller|
Strictly speaking you should hold your transmitter with its aerial vertical and the grey wire likewise and it could wind around a mast or fit into a slot in the mast. This is basic VHF. But if operating on a small pond currently my aerial is running along the deck horizontally below the bulwark. On a previous incarnation [ different superstructure on my versatile hull ] I had a scale whip aerial up from the bridge with a connector to the grey wire which stayed inside the superstructure. One other important point, you can increase the areail length but do not cut and reduce it to be 'neat'
|Thread: Air-Gas proportions|
regarding to my avatar the boat pictured has undergone a further rebuild and now looks something like the German coastal defence trawler featured in Model Boats a few months ago. The hull is an 'Isle's Class' Trawler, now must be a good ten years old and this is the second rebuild .. maybe one day I will attempt to build her according to the lovely plans that came with the hull
I thought I would find an abundance of helpful folk who knew all the answers
Whatever in my latest bench tests I discovered that by increasing the pressure* from the supply tank I got a better 'burning flame' ... more blue than yellow .... hotter. This is with a new burner tube with a 0.5mm jet size [ an older NBG jet which I cleaned out] and 2mm holes in the tube rather than saw cuts. Putting my fingers over to block the air holes so I am burning pure gas results in a yellow flame.
*Previously with a full [new] tank I barely opened the gas cock [ Stuart Turner call it a regulator] to get the height of flame needed to heat the boiler.
|Thread: HELP PLEASE!!!|
Doing further tests on the bench I discovered that by increasing the pressure down the pipe I got a better 'burning flame' which if read in reverse ... your story about the flame reducing suggests a blockage in the supply. My problem is the amount of soot being deposited on the boiler.
|Thread: What boat is this? and has anyone got any plans?|
I didn't note how old this thread is and added without seeing whole thread ... irrelevant now
Edited By JC Uknz on 11/01/2010 10:27:02
|Thread: Steam engines|
Again to quote Glynn Guest's Sabina he simply had steering and a blunt bow.
I think some of the answer to your question lies in the hull shape of the 900mm hull. Sabina is shorter and chunkier ... but if you have a better hull proportion like say 1:6 or so you will have the power. That's what I'm currently building and that is the least of my concerns as I fit an old Mamod style horizontal boiler and single ossie into it.
With this set-up it might be advisable to fly the 'Restricted ability to manouver' signals from your mast ... assuming others would know what they mean.
|Thread: Advice please|
Glynn Guest used kitchen foil to line the insides of Sabina that he designed foir Model Boats a few years ago. This is a model of an American river/pleasure boat with deck house closing in the steam engine. It was built out of balsa wood like many of his semi-scale designs. It is fired with solid burners. My 'worktop' firing tests using gas has a considerable heat build-up back towards the plastic tube bringing the gas from the tank. The burner is a tube about 3" long with four jets [cuts in the tube] and the plastic is only about two inches behind that ... I'm thinking I may have to re-design things with at least a part metal gas feed pipe.
|Thread: HELP PLEASE!!!|
When we are doing metal casting in the Club Foundary we stand our 9kg gas bottles in a pan of water to maintain the pressure to get the heat needed to melt the metal [ Aluminium ].
At home once when my 9kg gas bottle stopped supplying gas to my room heater I placed my electric bar heater behind the cabinet and warmed up the bottle .... the bottle produced more gas for me. THAT WAS AN EXPERIEMENT AND I WOULDN'T NORMALLY DO IT, just change over bottles
So with all the cold weather you northern folk are having the ambient temperature could be a factor except from your description of the flame changing colour. Which suggests to be the air input getting clogged up ... I'm a bit vague on this and have a query on another thread I hope somebody will answer ... otherwise I'm going to need a chimney sweep as a permanent crew member.
Years ago with some heating cooking device I remember it came with a 'pricker' so that one could clean the 'jet hole'. It was a petrol burning camp cooker , my memory is returning
Edited By JC Uknz on 11/01/2010 09:29:40
|Thread: Speed control|
A steam engine in a boat is like a railway steam engine so the same things that control speed with say Garden Railway engines would work for boats.
As far as single oscilators not self starting I am reminded of the WWII G45 RAF Gun Cameras which had a cunning set-up which when the motor was switched off the camera came to a stop at a fixed position ... methinks maybe the answer for ossies
Another thought ... while the normal steam motor is relatively slow rotating and uses a 'large' propellor ... could it be that the Ossie needs to run fast so needs a smaller prop?
If you are up to the engineering side of I would suggest that the best form of speed control is a variable prop propellor. One of our Club members worked out his own design and wouldn't use anything but it for his steam and petrol powered boats. One of his boats has alternative steam and petrol motors which are interchangeable with about ten minutes work.
My own tentative efforts, yet to be tested in the water, come from an early Model Maker [ forerunner of Model Boats ]. The principle is to have the propellor blades mounted on a shaft which passes through the propshaft. Rotating with that is a tube with slots machined in it to set the prop angle. This is moved backwards and forwards by the servo arm. I suspect that it only gives forward and reverse unlike my fellow member's version which gives variations from stop to full forward and full reverse.
The advantage of the variable prop is that you don't have to stop the motor and re-start to change thrust direction. My motor is a single cylinder oscilator so it is important it doesn't stop!
|Thread: Air-Gas proportions|
I'm organising a gas fire for a boiler. The main problem is that the flames are creating a lot of soot under and up the sides of the horizontal boiler. I'm sure from a vague memory from when I was thinking of Garden Railway steam power it has something to do with the amount of air being mixed with the gas [ small Kovea tank Butane/Protane mix]
I'm hoping somebody can guide me to save hunting through magazine after magazine, if I still have it.
My sympathies with you in the Northern hemisphere with all the snow dump .. I hope you still have power to spend time heating yourselves and working the computer even if you can't go to work.
I am currently building a coaster roughly* following the plans in a book "The Model Shipbuilder" by the late JKD Hutchison, RN and Commander Gerald G Porth RNR.
Published G. Bell and Sons Ltd London 1949 If you have some way of accessing the book through your Library perhaps. Mine on loan from our Club library. It would probably be called a 'semi-scale' model after the style of Glynn Guest ... that's how I'm building her though the book has hull lines for aa 'proper' hull.
* I aim to fit her with a steam engine so am moving the funnel and deck structures forward. The design is a 'stepped' design [ don't know the cirrect term for that] with the hatches forward of the bridge lower than those mid-ships in front of the motive power structure deckhouses funnel etc..
Edited By JC Uknz on 12/11/2009 08:30:24
|Thread: Old but not out (yet).|
Weedeater motors seem to run between 20 and 30 cc that I have seen ... I have a 30cc in a scale jetboat [42"] .... the thing you need to get clued up on is modern radio control I suspect ... good luck
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