Here is a list of all the postings chuffy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Caldercraft Resolve waterline|
Thanks Colin, It was just a thought as I wanted to get the hull sprayed up this weekend.
I'm well into the build of the Caldercraft Resolve and need to find the position of the waterline. There are one or two models showing the line to be about 10mm down from the top of the rudder and the drwg shows it just above the top of the rudder, but the drwg has several errors on it so I'm not too sure. Also I have been told that there was a review of the model in Model Boat magazine but I cannot find it, any help on these two points would be much appreciated
|Thread: converting italeri 1/35 schnellboot s-100 to r/c|
|I'm putting mine on hold until all the photo etch parts are available.|
Buzzer, There are shed loads of information on this build on the Model Boat Mayhem forum, with lots of pictures and links, some of them to sites outside the UK and not in English but the pictures are very good. I'm trawling through them all at the moment before starting my own build.
|Thread: build a life boat|
Hi Graham, Colin has raised a very important point, the size of the boat.
They are by nature a boat of two halves, The hull and the superstructure and if you planed to transport in two halves then provision to adequately support the superstructure would need to be built in, in the early stage of construction.
If you want to have a look at mine with a view to fitting it in your vehicle let me know, I'm in Northamptonshire.
Graham, don't dismiss Speedline on the matter of cost. The quality of the kits is top draw and you can buy them in modules as and when you need them. I chose their 1/12 Severn as a first ever build of a model boat having formally built 1/3 scale traction engines. Hard work yes, challenging yes, do your head in on a regular basis,yes, but as I get ready to take it to a local show as a build in progress then you remember only the good times. Gleaming paint work , miles of brass handrails (painted) and loads of brass etch, yes it's worth the cost and effort.
I took the model built by Terry Small as a standard to aim for as I had no other guide lines, ok I admit it will be a very long time before i could ever hope to match his build quality, if ever, but she looks very good all the same.
I also met Phil Locke several times and received a lot of help from him and of course Adrian who designed and produced the kit, and is always at the end of the phone at almost any time of the day to set you straight when things go a little pear shaped.
|Thread: Adhesive advice please.|
Roy, for plastic to wood try super glue, impact adhesive either thixotropic or the runny stuff, if the plastic is non oily and well keyed PVA and glues like Bison and general modeling purpose glues, also epoxy glues.
|Thread: paint job|
|Hadn't a clue it was a bait boat, but would be interested to know more about this isolator that Ashley uses, Can you put a name to it and where it can be purchased Ashley?|
Ashley, Jimbo said in his original post that he wanted to know the best way to take off old paint, I took that to mean remove it . As you say if it's just a respray job and he knows the type of paint that he is over-spraying and that is compatible with the new finish then that's fine no problems.
If however he wants to remove the paint because he does not know the type of paint on the hull already then he is better off striping it . Many hulls and fibre glass moulding these days have very fine detail moulded into them and striping is probably the only way to remove the paint and retain the detail.
With regard to flatting down mouldings that do have detail cast in I use wet and dry over the flat areas and then around the detail, rivets ect., I use a glass fibre pen to key the gel coat, without damaging the detail.
Jimbo, just a thought, don't be in too much of a hurry to wash the stripper off. My small test patches showed a time of between 24 and 36 hrs to soften the paint down to the gell coat, the last hull I jet washed off after making sure that it was well fixed down and it only required a light rub down with 000 gauge wire wool with washing up liquid on the water. There were three or four small patches that refused to budge with the washer but these were removed using a styrene scraper and wire wool as the paint was softened down to the gell coat, just not soft enough for the washer.
To be fair I have now tried Nitromors on a scrap scale helicopter body and it will remove the paint very quickly and if you keep washing it off and re-applying in with a view to preserving the gell coat then yes it works, it is however time consuming and as paint will vary in thickness has still etched into the gell coat in places. Where this has happened It would be possible to fill these areas.
From my own point of view I would still go with the RemovAll 620 method, all I can say is that 'it works for me'
|Jimbo, they do small sample pots at £5.99 inc p/p a couple would do most medium size hulls. I bought the 4ltr size and have sold off 2 ltrs to other modellers so I have stripped three hulls for around £5.00 each with some left over for another hull or project. See if you can do the same and sell some off to reduce the cost. Painting it on and washing it off seems a lot better than sanding and you don't damage the gell coat.|
|Hi Jimbo, I have just finished stripping three old hulls back to the gell coat using a product called RemovAll 620 from Cirrus systems. They were painted with all types of paints and varnish and one had 12 layers of paint on it. The result were first class with no real mess, the stripper is laid on with a brush and striped of with a garden hose water jet and if needed a plastic scraper. This stripper will not destroy the gell coat, have a look at their web site, www.cirrus-systems.co.uk .|
|Thread: Help with Lifeboat|
|Mike, Thank goodness for that . I am in the middle of a build of a Speedline Severn and I have got an A4 sheet of items that need further research , things that I thought were cut and dried but someone has said 'are you sure that's right' or ' I don't think it's like that!'. I know that the boats vary within the same class but once somethings been pointed out I just have to check hence the list and I would rather it didn't get any longer. Oh and keep taking it as straight as possible, the tricky jobs seem to get a lot easier the neater it is.|
|Thread: Caldercraft Garnock engine sound options|
So, my recent posting to Ashley seems to have bought the worst out in David Harrison of Model Solutions of Canada Ltd., Trying to link my comments to Ashley, to the first paragraph of his post by 'association' is frankly silly and a tad rude.
Just for the record David, I started playing with model boats aged five with a clockwork tinplate boat I think made by Tri-Ang. Fifty seven years later I am still playing with model boats, though now equipped with the latest technology in motors, esc's sound generators and construction techniques. I would add that I have also built 0 and 00 gauge model railways,garden railways and large, scale model helicopters, these fitted with the most up todate avionic packs and of late jet propulsion. I have also enjoyed the companionship of several clubs and their members over these many years and done my share of committee work to boot.
The above is hardly the CV of a person 'determined to poison our hobby at every available oppotunity by bitching and complaining at every turn', as you claim.
Your second paragraph or rather part of it ' is not supposed to be an opportunity to vent your anger at any newcomer who wants to make an entry into your sacred market.' is again so silly and a little childish if I may be so bold.
I know David that basic and common courtesy in communicating with others is very close to your heart so perhaps you would take the trouble to spell my name correctly if you reply
Vinnie, always nice to read your 'tongue' cheek comments to go with that cheeky smile, you could have added, ' he might even enjoy it'!
kgurd, which ever system you choose to go with do try and make sure you hear it before you buy and that the backup is there for you should things go wrong.
|Ashley, I think you will find that Model Solutions of Canada will keep a thread going as long as possible, nit picking every reply to gain free publicity, they do it on the Mayhem Forum as well.|
|Thread: Help with Lifeboat|
|Does the width of the lines vary from bow to stern on all the types or just some ? RNLI Drwg 1702-02-01B for the severn shows the lines on the side elevation to be of the same width.|
Model Technics trimline tape is worth a look at, available in the red and yellow. I'm using it on my 1/12 Severn. There are several widths on the roll and the length is 2.5 mtrs.
|Thread: The other side|
|Many thanks Ken.|
Thanks Charles. I still can't get on at 7.58 PM today, have to see what happens tomorrow. In the mean time can anyone give me an email address for them.
Am I the only one who can't access The Mayham Forum or is the site down?
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor