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Member postings for Manxman

Here is a list of all the postings Manxman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Powerful motors
12/01/2008 20:15:00

Hi Bob,

Just had a thought about the suppressor.

There may be a way of fitting without opening the motor.  Not sure of the name I think they are "Scotch Locks", we use to use them on cars to connect accessories without cutting the wire, don't know if you remember them. Still available at Halfords and the like.

Could also just "nick" the insulation, solder the capacitor lead on and then slide a little heat shrink on.

I agree the capacitors are a pain but I've already done them,  however when I come to use them on the Imara, I think I'll go with the nick & heat shrink idea. That way I'll be able to get all 3 on.

Ken

12/01/2008 18:38:00

Hi Bob,

The Pacific Light I'm building is only 48" in length but will be extremely heavy.  My choice of motors (2) was I needed power and not speed, I also don't like using gearboxes as they add extra noise.

   Details:

   Supplier = Westbourne-models.com

   Robbe Power 1ooo motor

   Current amps @ max efficiency = 2.5 amps

   Maximum power = 10.oo amps

   Revs = 650

   Efficiency = 70%

   Weight - 1ooog (1kilo)

   Length = 96mm

   Voltage = 6v-12v

Suppressors - here you may have a problem. Normally we would fit 3 capacitors to suppress any electrical noise, however I have only been able to fit one, across the power terminals inside the motor as there are no external terminals. The motor is held together by two lengths of screw thread which pass through the full length of the motor, but these do make mounting them easy through 2 half height bulkheads.

Now if that hasn't put you off - the next bit of info will...

You will need to be sitting down for this ...

Cost = £37.99 + postage !

If you have used nitro engines before you may already have a motor. The electric starters for these engines use a similar motor.

I also intend to fit these motors into my Imara tug

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Carrier - with tugs
12/01/2008 07:13:00

Poses the question - how may tugs does it take to change a light bulb? - nice photo though and the carrier looks great.

Looks big enough to have a pilot on board

Ken

Thread: Pop Pop Engines?
12/01/2008 07:04:00

Hi Paul,

Yes I agree, it is an easier way, but does not always work for me.  Often when I come to re-paste, the option is greyed out.  working with 2 windows never fails me.  What works for one person often does not for someone else - You had no problem including photos whilst the rest of us were pulling our hair out!

I think a lot of the problems is the computers themselves - I doubt if there are two the same - all have different processors, memory, settings, programmes etc.

We find a way that works for us and keep to it

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Kitchen stern.JPG
11/01/2008 19:41:00

Yes - I did realise you were taking the Michael, just worried about our members

11/01/2008 18:57:00

Oh - hello stranger - whos been shankin' your tree !

No MMI - would be your rival - Model Marine Ineternational, wouldn't want any sailors going awol, would we !

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Pop Pop Engines?
11/01/2008 18:51:00

Hi Len, Paul,

I agree it was an interesting site, couldn't stop reading, thanks Paul

Links - sounds long winded, takes longer to type than do...

Easiest way is to open a second window.  enter the editor and then shrink the window. click the middle box, top right (next to the red X), now click and hold the top bar and move the window to the top of your screen. now move your cursor to the bottom right corner, it should change to a diagonal arrow and you will be able to resize the window. make it about half way - fun isn't it !

Now click on your explorer icon to load up internet again.  Do the same as before, but this time move the window to the bottom half of your screen - Nearly done - in this second window load up the site you want to link to and when loaded just click on the address bar, the background will turn blue. right click on it and select copy from the menu.  Move to you editor window and left click where you want the address, now right click and select paste - and there you are, you can now close the second window and enlarge your editor.

Sorry about the amount of text - its so easy to do but hard to explain in a letter.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Kitchen stern.JPG
11/01/2008 05:26:00

Hi JC,

They close only when reversing and open outwards when going forwards.  It then resembles a steerable Kortz nozzle in use,  both cups turning to port/starboard to steer the boat.

I no longer have any old issues and can't remember which issue (may even have been in the other mag!) have a look at "Kens Bits" in the gallery for more pictures of it.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: My first boat
09/01/2008 17:18:00
Hi Antonie, What giggles? - looks great to me. The main question is did you enjoy making it? The fun aspect seems to have disappeared from the hobby now days and it has become too competitive, making sure all the hull plates are in the correct position and the correct number of rivets used! Keep on with your style and enjoy the build. Cheers Ken
Thread: Propelers
07/01/2008 18:10:00

Hi Roger,

Yes, you should use a thrust washer, just place it on the shaft followed by your locking nut, do this so it just backs up to the washer.  use a little Locktite on the thread and screw the prop on, again till it touches the nut, now tighten the nut down onto the prop. This will give just a little free movement of the washer.

If you do not have an oiling tube fitted to the prop shaft remember to fill the tube with oil before fitting the prop.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Help on Railings please!
07/01/2008 17:55:00

Hi Paul,

I agree with Peters advice and use a board with the rail positions marked and make your railings up on it.  This is especially good advice with your model, Dutch Courage, as both deckhouse and wheelhouse are made from vacuum formings and you would do well to keep your soldering iron away from them, even though you may not touch them the heat generated from the iron can cause damage. (some modellers use superglue here rather than soldering)

Your stanchions are flat-etched brass and fragile.  Some care will need to be taken when removing them from the frets.  My method is to use a new Stanley blade on a cutting board (mine is MDF covered with cork tiles) cut the 4 tangs to free each one and then use a dremel type tool fitted with a fine sanding drum just touch each point to remove the remains of the tangs.

Forming the bends: right angles are the easiest and just require a pair of pliers - rounded corners are the same, just use round nosed pliers which will give various radius - bends, if you are not comfortable bending these by hand/eye then make the shape from scrap wood and when you have the shape correct just bend the wire around. 

Looking at a photo, the railings appear to slope out wards, meaning each rail is a different size. scary ! - just make the top rail first and lay it on your building board, then make the second rail to just fit inside the first one - make the bottom rail to fit inside the second and you should end up with the taper required.

Yes - you probably will make a male hen up! of your first attempt, we all do - don't be put off, the more you make the better you will become - the most important thing to do is to take your instruction book and read each section as you come to it several times until you are comfortable with the procedure, take your time (its not a race) and enjoy the build ....

Cheers and best wishes - Ken

ps - what the plural of radius, is it radi ?

Thread: Spineless
04/01/2008 12:48:00
Hi Bob, She's looking really good now she's planked, the photo of her standing in the doorway now gives a good indication of the size. Q. How did you get the spine out?, as both bow and stern seem to have been planked, and also the formers - did you not glue the planking to these. Keep up the great work, its nice to watch the build in progress Cheers - Ken
Thread: How great this site could be!
03/01/2008 17:20:00
http://www.modelboats.co.uk/sites/2/images/member_albums/2522/LeCaux-12.jpg


Ok - done that Len and blow me its worked ! ........

can't leave yet, not without a but - OK, I can now get one up from an existing album, but does not solve the original problem - how to get one out of your folders and into a reply without sending it to your album and waiting till it decides to show.

and what happened there Paul, when I looked at your reply yesterday all that was showing was a link - today there's a picture of the eastern ?we'll see what happens here when I click the Submit button - fingers crossed

Ken

Thread: show case adhesives
03/01/2008 10:18:00

Hi Neil,

I'm of the same opinion regards to the size and the 560 - plumbers glue, have a look around your local DIY store for a small tin and try a test edge for strength and clarity - should be strong enough considering the pressure in cold water pipes.  Most plumbers would now use push-on or plastic compression joints.

Good luck - Ken

03/01/2008 08:35:00

Hi Neil,

I can not imagine what a plumber would require a clear adhesive for ?

When I used to keep tropical fish, the aquariums were made used clear silicone to fix the glass panels together, though transparent, you could still see it.

I'm not a static builder so take my advise on a trial and error basis.

You don't mention how big the case is going to be, if its small/medium you could try a canopy glue called FORMULA 560 this is used by all modellers  to fix canopies and windows.  It is white in colour, but dries crystal clear.  available at all model shops.  If you wait a little while longer someone will come up with the correct method.

Cheers - Kenny

(nothing to do with the thread, before posting, ran the spell checker over this reply - and no errors ! - a first for me!)

Thread: How great this site could be!
02/01/2008 22:04:00

No you can't - thats just a link to another web site ! -

Thread: Masking
02/01/2008 20:03:00

Hi John,

Without doubt the best tape to use is Tamiya (about £3.50 - 6mm), available at most model shops.  Mask off top and bottom of your band,  now, using cheap and nasty masking tape from the £1.oo shop (3 rolls a squid) and clean white A4 paper (you could use brown parcel paper or thick tissue) mask off the rest, lapping the cheap stuff to the Tamiya and not onto the model.  Do not use newspaper, the solvents in the paint can transfer the print onto your model.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: How great this site could be!
02/01/2008 19:45:00

Vinnie - sorry to bother you, me ole mate,

I'm stuffing myself with 8after mints, washed down with a drop of liquid gold in frustration here

Are you by any chance using a Sinclair ZX-81 computer ?,  The reason I ask is I'm using Windows XP with Explorer v6,  and I'll be damned if I can find "Copy image location" anywhere in the menu.  I've done as asked, opened a 2nd window, located and opened an album, opened a picture and right clicked on it - and a menu opens, and the nearest I can see is Copy - not what you say - so where are you hiding it ?

Ken

02/01/2008 19:26:00

Vinnie,

It may well be my computer, but I don't have any problem scrolling on this web site (its sister) or any other.

Is anybody going to give it a go? - No - having a picture already in your album is fine, and judging by Paul & Lens efforts, work.

But when your trying to upload a picture in the forum to answer somebodies query, having them wait 2/3 days for it to appear album is not on.  We KNOW it does live instantly - you keep telling us it does - but in the real world it does not, as we have found out in the past.

I see you have not taken up my challenge though - to join and put a piccy up !

Best moan this year, so far! - Ken

Thread: hstug32.jpg
02/01/2008 15:47:00

Looking good - brass work looks excellent - well done. could do with a few more photos though !

Ken

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