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Member postings for Manxman

Here is a list of all the postings Manxman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Paravane gear
18/12/2008 21:38:00

You don't have to go with out a slurp over the holiday Paul,

There are plenty of alcohol free wines in the shops !

Thread: Bilge Pump
02/10/2008 19:21:00

OK - I admit it - I'm thick !

water comes into the hull and operates the float switch or circuit probes and switches on the pump which pumps the water out, when the water is gone the float switch drops back down and stops the pump.

This much I understand, now comes the thicky part of me asking WHY, do you need a float switch or a fancy circuit board ?

if you connect +12v to the pump and run -12v to one of 2 small nails/screws set in a small block and fixed near to the hull floor and a 2nd wire from the other nail/screw to the pump.  surely water coming into the hull, which is a damned good conductor of 12v would, when reaching the nails make a connection and switch the thing on - when the water is gone the connection would be lost and it would stop !

Either there is something seriously wrong with my way of thinking or people just like to make life harder for themselves.

Ken - the stupid

Thread: wheat germ running lights
02/10/2008 18:52:00

Hi Denis,

LEDs are no good to you, they are far too bright for a 1960s Sea Queen, stick to your 3v bulbs.

If you do not already have your bulbs, have a look at Hobbies or Hobby's, both have web sites.

I am not sure which of these, but one of them sells light sets of 7 & 10 grain of wheat bulbs complete with a 3v battery box/switch for about £5.oo just add 2 x 1.5v batteries.  What is special about these bulbs is they are on 20 inch (500mm) wires and you can wire most smaller boats without any joints.

If the lights still seem too bright just change the 1.5v batteries for 1.2v re-chargable ones.

Looking at the boat from the rear RED(port) is on the left - GREEN(starboard) is on the right.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: IMG_0285 (2).JPG
02/10/2008 05:56:00

Hi Folks,

I too am an Imara owner, purchased mine over a year ago but only just started (I only build one model at a time!)

The sub deck is now supplied in 2 sections - and is fitted to the usual cross beams with a longitude spine to give the camber.  Before fitting the deck glue some 6mm balsa to the beams and sand to the camber, this supports the deck much more firmly across the beam.

Be careful taking measurements from the book or the full size plans - my deck house moulding is 15mm shorter than the drawing ! - and cocked up the measurements given for the beams.

But the model has details coming out of your ears and shed loads of character - Enjoy

Cheers - Kenny

Thread: Club 500 speedboat
19/08/2008 21:27:00

Hi Tony,

As Ashley mentions polystyrene foam is probably the best stuff to use, but don't bother buying it, you will find all you need in a skip ! - they are full of it (its where I usually get mine from).  Putting in into the spare space of, say the bow, just break of small pieces and rub in your hands until its reduced to small balls, prop the boat up and pour them into the bow, now just dribble a little PVA glue to lightly cover and leave till set.

Don't for get to add pieces of tile under any hatches

You can actually buy bags of beads in craft shops, look out for old bean bags and kiddies toys.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Model boat does morse code!
15/08/2008 17:43:00

Hi Chris,

Check your wiring.

Particularly any sockets/plugs. I had a similar problem whilst testing Pacific Light a couple of weeks ago, were one motor would run intermittently.  Traced the fault down to a Tamiya connector.  My soldering was quite good, but over did the solder !, and got some onto the outside of the pins.  This caused the pins not to sit properly in the connector, when the 2 halves were connected together they only just touched instead of going into each other.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: 193.JPG
15/08/2008 17:31:00

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your kind words, had a quick look at your profile but no mention of where you're based.

She'll be at the Ellesmere boat show next weekend.

If the weather is good this Sunday (17th) hope to be sailing her at New Brighton (if I can get out of going to the car bootie, that is!)

Cheers - Ken

Thread: P5140075.jpg
13/08/2008 18:12:00

Hi Mark,

The guy with the blue hat looks more like Santa !

The model looks fantastic by the way

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Acoms technisport 2.4ghz
12/08/2008 06:41:00

Hi Shrek,

I'm with Ashley here, and thought these radios were suitable for boats.  As I understand it, there are 2 short aerials (about 4")  the receiver and both aerials need to be above the water line,  one aerial horizontal and the other vertical, which means one would probably come through the deck, say inside a plastic tube and disguised.

If you already have a boat, why not try it in it !, but make sure there is someone else sailing as well just in case you need a push to shore.  You have nothing to lose as you've already bought your radio.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Motors & Overheating
10/08/2008 19:30:00

Hi Dan,

Been watching this thread with interest as I've recently purchased 2x800 Torpedo's + 2x80mm props for fitting into an Imara tug next year (getting all the bits together) and at the £100 mark I will be well miffed if I have similar problems !.

There's been a lot of good and technical advice given, perhaps too much, and like you I'm not a technical type. So may be its time to start again from the beginning and see whats causing the excessive heat.

Start by removing the running gear and mount the motor + battery + fuse to the bench - before connecting up - put 1 drop of light oil on both motor bearings and leave for a few minutes.  Now run the motor for a few moments - does it get hot under a no load situation ?.  Next add the ESC into the circuit, leave this switched on but without the motor running - any heat yet ? - then run the motor and check again.

To carry on the motor would have to be re-installed into the boat, then try it connected to the prop shaft (no prop) - then with prop

Some where along the line the cause of the heat is going to show up.

You mentioned you had a set of suppressors waiting to be fitted,  if the 850s are similar to the 800s then they are already suppressed - inside !

Fitting a fan to the end shaft would be a NO - too easy to touch whilst moving, and to get a fan to fit between the terminals would be so small as to be usless.

Water cooling may be a way but you would need new motor mounts, there is not enough room to fit the coil between the motor and existing mount.

Phil Locke's motor set up of 4x850s belted to 2 shafts looked real mean - using a sledge hammer to crack a nut - seemed totally over powered,  I can't remember him saying why he changed to just 2x700s they just appeared in one of the photos later on !

Good luck with your quest and have a safe journey and time back in Spain. Look forward to your return.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: Pacific Light - finally finished
10/08/2008 09:20:00
http://www.modelboats.co.uk/sites/2/images/member_albums/2522/176.JPG

Hi Folks,

Well she's finally finished and had her sea trials up at New Brighton last week. Sad, but the highlight for me was seeing the fire monitors work ! - as when testing in the workshop using a bottle of water they would not work.

Powered by 2x12v Robbe power 1000 motors, steering by 2x100mm Becker rudders assisted by bow and stern thrusters working together and enable her to move sideways (admittedly slowly). with 40 working lights and a crew of 9 'Blockheads' she sails very well. She's a little light in the stern area but I have now moved the thruster battery rear wards.

She's taken 1130 hours to build and used just over 63,000 matches, god knows how much glue !

All up weight is 43lb with no extra ballast. length 48" - beam 11.5"

Latest pictures are now in the gallery - enjoy - Ken

Thread: InfoPage.jpg
10/08/2008 08:40:00

Thanks Bob,

Sorry, I've updated the info picture and it seems to have disappeared from your thread, thought the new picture would just replace the old one - seems not.

I'll be down at the Ellesmere show for the 2 days (easier to get to than Birchwood)

Cheers - Ken

ps - Wait till you see my next model - a giant match ! - made from boats ! 

Thread: Pacific Light - Manxman
10/08/2008 08:27:00

Hi Ducky,

Sorry to have missed you, I had a hell of a time getting to New Brighton last week, didn't know the Wirral show was on - diversions everywhere.

She'll be at the Ellesmere Boat Show at the Epic Centre Sat/Sun (23/24). Going here as it's easier to get to than Birchwood.

Cheers - Ken

Thread: The other side
22/07/2008 18:34:00

Hi Paul,

Just logged onto Mayhem - no problems - E-mail below - Cheers Ken

martin@modelboatmayhem.co.uk

Thread: Vintage Launch 1
22/07/2008 18:10:00

Hi Jane,

Give Paul our regards - we all wish him a speedy recovery.

The site's just not the same without Paul and Bob having a go at each other - the banter between them is great.

I don't recall Paul mentioning you were an accomplished modeller, the vintage launch above looks excellent, Paul had better watch out, he's got competition in his home port.

Take care Jane - regards Ken

Thread: Radar
20/07/2008 12:53:00

Hi Andy,

Try ACTion Electronics - 19, Carisbrooke Dr., Nottingham NG3-5DS Tel:0115 9607951

or their web site www.action-electronics.co.uk

They do a motor/gearbox set (M7G) for radars with ratios of 9:1 / 27:1  and runs from a single 1.2 NiCad

They also do a motor components set, which allows the motor to run from a standard 6v or 12v main drive battery.

The motor hides under the wheelhouse and drive is via brass rod/plastic tube (you provide) through the house to the radar. When you paint the tube to the internal colours it is almost invisible.

Cheers - Kenny

ps - Don't know where your based, but they also attend the boat shows.  I purchased mine at the Ellesmere show last year.

Thread: Miniature springs
13/07/2008 21:46:00

Hi Fred,

Very small ones obtainable free from disposable lighters (the ones with a wheel on top) found discarded everywhere or from your local £1 shop.

Slightly larger ones from retractable ball pens (also free, if you pinch them from work !)

Cheers - Ken

Thread: LandWasser Schlepper Mid-production
10/07/2008 18:17:00

Now, now, Vinnie,

I wasn't knocking the review, I really enjoyed it, it's just when a review of a kit is done in 'our' magazine it normally includes the build as well.  for all we know, when the kit pieces were assembled, it may have turned out to be a washing machine !

As for static models, most boat modellers build both types, and the scratch builders are always looking for books to glean their information from, plus a good read.

and while your there, chuck up some photies of your models, as your kind of modellers are well up when it comes to weathering techniques, which we could all learn from.

Cheers - Ken

09/07/2008 19:04:00

That's a nice kit there Vinnie,  the detailing is superb,  but you could have given us an indication to its size ? - could have put a ruler up on pic9 or 10 for reference.

Was it you or Phil who built the review model ? as both your names are there (I'm guessing Phil did the build and you the web production).  Could have also put some pictures of the finished build, or have I just missed them ?

Come to think of it - was it actually built - as there are only pictures of the various kit parts and nothing of the build its self. !

Cheers - Ken

Thread: DSCN3211.JPG
09/07/2008 18:33:00

See Ashley,

All those tips you've given us - and you didn't want to share them.

One more tip for you - if you don't want to file flats onto the heads of the pellets, you can buy them already flat - they're used for competitions, the flat head does not tear the target !

Cheers - Ken

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