Here is a list of all the postings Ian Gardner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vic Smeed's Silver Mist|
Looking forward to that Ray - always one of my favourite designs. Mine appeared in Tony's Vic Smeed article a while ago. Mine is a little bigger than yours but not as big as Bob's - but size isn't everything!
All the best,
|Thread: Navigation lights in shrouds|
I wondered if your model might be the Mistral- a lovely old Vic Smeed design. Mine was also enlarged a little from 18'' to about 23''. I found that the shapes on the plan didn't work out quite as intended so a bit of juggling was required- although it might have been me being clumsy.
I hope you have fun building the model and look forward to seeing some photos at some stage. I know others who follow this forum are great Vic Smeed fans too.
I had just the same problem when I was building my Vic Smeed Mistral. No amount of searching could come up with the definitive answer but I did discover that the lifebelts were often mounted in the same place but on a wooden cross piece. In the end I just stuck the light boards on the shrouds with cyano and they have remained securely in place ever since.
Here are some photos of my Mistral.**LINK**
All the best,
|Thread: SLEC/Vintage Model Boats Thames Police Launch|
I would only ever use a rubber coupling like these in a faster boat now as they are quieter. I read somewhere that the Huco type couplings are only designed for revs up to about 10,000. They are certainly much noisier and therefore, presumably, less efficient.
I think it would be worth taking a lot of trouble to get a good alignment and double couplings take up a lot of space.
|Thread: Website wobble|
Using Firefox I find the product pages come up but the home page is blank.
|Thread: Midwest Products plans|
I have had a look at your website and lots of others listing plans. Aerofred has three Midwest plans- the tug, the fireboat and a lobster boat.
Needless to say, one of the first things I did was get in touch with Midwest and they say they have no parts or drawings for the kits now.
I'll keep trying but it seems a bit of a lost cause. Trouble is though, one tends to get the bit between the teeth and it becomes a bit of an obsession!
Thanks for the response.
I have been trying to track down the drawings for a couple of the old Midwest static kits which are no longer produced-or even the kits themselves.
The drawings have enough information on them to build a model from scratch. I wondered if anybody had built a kit in the past and still had the drawings which they might be prepared to sell or copy.
The kits still pop up on Ebay from time to time , but are usually in the States and very expensive.
The two I'm particularly interested in are the Chesapeake Bay Flattie and the Sharpie Schooner. I know it's a long shot but I thought it was worth a try.
All the best,
|Thread: Armouring the hull|
I think you'll find ZPoxy is a preferred product for models. I have used it and like it. It is less odorous and sands well. Others could say more abour Eze-Cote.
|Thread: New to Steam - what to use in Victoria|
Yes, Donald- a bit of a trek from Kings Lynn to Cheddar!
I have built some steam models in the past and used Cheddar plants which were excellent. However, I'm no expert.
Obviously Cheddar are no more, but a former employee, Jerry Watson ( I think) runs Clevedon Steam and you already know about him. I suggest you contact him and ask for suggestions. The Krick Victoria was a very well known boat so he will know just what you need. I should think any of the plants you mention would suffice.
In my opinion, silicone tubing for ancillaries like a sludge tank is OK in an enclosed boat but for an open launch it might look better to plumb in with copper tube. It is also my opinion (and only that) that electronic boiler control complicates things unnecessarily on a boat like this. You should get twenty minutes from a boiler you are likely to use then you have the fun of bringing her in and tending to the fire and water.
Whistles are fun but soon use up steam if you aren't judicious in their use.
I used to know the purpose of the syphon on the pressure gauge- I think it's to make sure the gauge is operated by water rather than steam.
Stan Bray wrote a book about model marine steam which is quite useful.
There was also a Traplet book about steamboats called Scale Model Steamboats by Phillip Vaughan Williams
Traplet store is closed but this copy is on Amazon- price is a bit steep it seems to me!
I see you can still buy Jim King's book and that would still provide good background although quite old now.
The best bit of advice is to join a club with knowledgeable people if at all possible. I don't know where you are in the country but Cheddar Steam Club has people who know all about this stuff.
Others on this forum will have greater knowledge than me but I hope some of this helps.
|Thread: Vintage Gentleman's Cruiser|
Been there, done that Bob! It happened to me on the Silver Mist and it's very irritating. All part of the fun though and your latest build is looking very fine. Keep up the good work- always enjoy reading your posts.
Those windows look absolutley fab, Bob. You can't see the join. I like the Fablon covering too- might try that one day. I take it those were the two tinlets you used?
I liked the picture of the full sized James Silver yacht- that stern doesn't look all that bulbous to me and I wonder if Vic got it quite right. However, he was only working from some photos.
A very good solution for the window frames Bob. I was wondering what you might do to disguise the bare wood round the frame cut-outs. I often laminate thin mahogany onto lite-ply for superstructures and have the same problem. I'll be interested to see what you paint them with. I have used Plasticote Chrome paint in the past, which is a nice silver but not very durable.
I still have an old Maycraft Mercury to finish refurbishing and the thing that's putting me off is fabricating the twenty plus window frames!
Keep up the good work,
Well, it was just a thought, Bob. It is hard to tell from the photos what the rake is. I think the funnel on Sea Dog looks awkwardly vertical! It is hard to get these things just right. Might be worth making some card mock-ups to try different heights and angles.
Whatever you end up doing it will look great, I'm sure.
I'm glad the funnel will stay Bob. Just one further thought, having looked at quite a few photos of this type of craft, I wonder if the funnel is too steeply raked. Looking at the original Sea Dog and other boats, they tended to be more upright. But again, if you have glued it on it may be a bit late!
I like the funnel Bob. Many of these old cruisers seem to have had funnels even if they had ic engines- including the one that this design was based on. I think it would look better if it was elliptical though> it would be more thirties than steam era. I think the boat is looking very nice and I look forward to seeing how it turns out.
All the best,
|Thread: Simple start.|
I think the Panache was about 30'' long, if it was the Vic Smeed design, and that photo looks like it.
I always transfer formers by tracing, using greaseproof paper- that way you don't have to make holes in your nice plan- but... horses for courses!
|Thread: Wood Sealer Poly C|
I have used Poly-C on a balsa hull with nylon tights for strengthening. It goes on well and dries quickly, so can be overcoated rapidly. It cleans up with water and is relatively odourless. It isn't as strong as epoxy and the hull has suffered some dents with use.
I tried it because I thought it would be cheaper and easier- which it is- but I wouldn't use it again. I think it is designed for skinning aircraft wings.
I agree with Dave that Z-Poxy is probably the best option for coating hulls. It is what I had used before the Poly-C and it is what I'd always use in future. Unlike other full size boat building epoxies, Z-Poxy sands very easily too.
Edited By Ian Gardner on 11/07/2017 14:20:31
|Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs|
I love to see all these old Vic Smeed designs. I remember pushing my daughter up and down the garden in her pram trying to get her off to sleep whilst studying the plan of Guardsman on the handlebars! It was published in 1982!
If I ever built another Vic Smeed design I'd love to do an enlarged Guardsman. It's such a well drawn design it would stand doubling- nudge, nudge, Bob! I remember mine weighed in the order of 4.5 pounds, so a twice size would be about 36lb! I had to build my original on a tray in the living room as I had to keep an ear out for said daughter when Mrs Gardner worked in the evenings.
I like that transmitter tray, Ray. I build my boat stands with an open tray at the bottom for tools and batteries but a wet boat drips on them -not ideal.
Keep up the good work chaps!
All the best,
Well done Bob! I was also going to suggest adding Ray's model. No doubt I will be corrected if I'm wrong, but I think his was about 30''. We still don't have a 21'' model- there was one in the gallery somewhere, but I forget the name of the gent who made it. I remember having some correspondence with him, and he used to sail it on Roadford Lake in Devon - not a million miles away from me. I used to sail dinghys there.
I think mine and Ray's are about to collide! Fun to see them all together though.
Tony, you are a mine of information. Interesting work, hunting for this information. I remember the original Arthur O Pollard articles from my younger days.
All the best,
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