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Member postings for John W E

Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Spider J
15/07/2015 17:39:09

hello Gareth

I promise I will keep me fingers off the keyboard after this and let you get on with your build. But, I like the new tool for producing rivet marks - another thought is using an old clock gear wheel mounted in an old file hand to produce the rivet marks in the Plasticard.

If you cant get the correct spacing for the rivets what you can do is file the teeth away on the cog between the spacings that you require.

I know I used to get my old clock cogs from a flea market in Shields - I used to go round and there were one or two stalls that had old bits of clocks on.



05/07/2015 18:48:59

Hi ya Gareth

I have just caught up with this build. Had a good read and thoroughly enjoying it!

Couple of things went through my mind The first one was, I know you are going to use Plasticard for your plating. At this present moment - I myself am rebuilding my model of the Boston Blenheim which I built in the late 1980s early 1990s and for the majority of the upper works - I used Plasticard for the bulwarks, bridge etc. When I was bringing the model down from the loft I knocked it on the side of the hatch - catching some of the plastic which abruptly shattered into lots of bits and also part of the plastic turned to a powder-like substance.

I wont go into too much detail about it.

Anyway, what made me think - is my experience of using the Plasticard as plating on other models - as you are intending to do - which has brought into question the length of life of the Plasticard and all the work you will put into it.

I was originally given a few sheets of printers' Lithoplate (a very thin aluminium) to try that as plating. But, I found, for me to get it to stick successfully to the hull sides (which had been fibre glassed) I had to abrade the contact side of the Lithoplate with emery cloth and I was using Superglue as a bonding agent - as I couldn't get away with using contact adhesives.

Also, my next thought for your wife's build of the barge; have you thought of double-planking the hull? Using a similar method as these Hatchett magazine people do in their Bismark/HMS Hood/Titanic builds. I myself have used a similar build to this on my last hull (Cargo vessel - Troyburgh). The first layer of planking I did as normal; using fillers to fill any discrepancy in the hull and sanded down. The next layer of planking was put over the top so the planks overlapped the joints of the first layer of planking and this final layer of planking was again sanded smoothly and filled with car body filler. Then instead of using fibre glass and tissue to seal the hull I used Z-Epoxy finishing resin without any matting or any woven materials; painted on as you would varnish.

This was allowed to dry and then sanded with wet n dry sandpaper to achieve the desired finish.

Just food for thought for your next build, cos if you do the outer planking neatly you can see and feel it through the Epoxy resin. I have done this style of build on several vessels and they have worked out pretty well.

Last, but not least, you may have already read it - but have you come across the book from Tree to Sea - about the building of a wooden drifter/last of the wooden vessels. It's a very interesting insight into building and it would give you a good idea of how some of the barges/sloops would have been built.






Edited By bluebird on 05/07/2015 18:52:06

Thread: somethings not right
21/04/2015 17:49:13

Hi William

I have had a quick eyeball of this model on Ebay and it looks a good model - price is a bit steep I think - but, everything is expensive these days.

To me the rudder has been 'flipped' round and that makes it look a bit close and in the wrong place and with regard to the prop shaft angles, they seem pretty close to the original on the real 'I am' boats. I think on the life sized ones I think they are around 13 degrees which look about right on this model.

The original boat also had 3 shafts and this one looks as though she is only twin, and I do think it wouldn't be too difficult if you wanted to add an extra shaft and reposition new rudders - 3 off. It does look a very well made model though.

Just my thoughts:



Thread: Model Boats Special 2015
21/04/2015 17:26:19

Hi all,

Well, I am pleased to say that my addition of the Magazine came through the post today and it is, up to now, a very enjoyable read. Well done Mr Bishop, the articles are well put together. of course also Mr Milbourn we will make a modeller out of you yet! wink

May I ask you and the rest of the editors of the Model Boats never to allow the magazine to go fully digital - because when one is holding a magazine it is personal and obviously can be read anywhere without annoying anyone, even in the middle of the night - by torchlight (got no electricity in the North East of England you know



Thread: Tyne Class Lifeboat model plans
02/04/2015 17:06:22

hi can anyone help me please?

Can anyone indicate which Magazine and the date these plans appeared in the Magazine.

I do know there are a set of plans which are for sale on the dreaded ubbay but I would prefer to purchase the Magazine in one piece or buy them from MyHobbiesStore.



Thread: Absolute beginner
07/03/2015 17:32:15

hello there Colin,


Why aye the Exeter finished - but it hasn't had sea trials.


Ive been having a rest from my modelling - doing other things now I got another build on the go



What surprises me for the price of £39 for the Balsa wood and plan - but do you get the article as well for that price? Cos don't forget one has to purchase hardware so you can stick another £30 on easily and if you haven't got the radio gear you can say there is another £40 so what starts off to be a cheap model - becomes very expensive. Good thing is tho - when you build from scratch you can budget weekly/monthly and only purchase the parts you need, when you need them.




Edited By bluebird on 07/03/2015 17:33:31

07/03/2015 17:11:20


07/03/2015 17:07:50

Hi Jeremy you have to be a member of Mayhem to see the pics

Colin I think I built the full boat for less than £39 and that was with the motor /propshaft and coupling included

aye john 006.jpg

Thread: Deck Stanchions
17/09/2014 18:44:18

100_0029 (medium).jpgHi, have you ever thought of making your own from Evergreen Plastic Strip? Buy it in various shapes and sizes and it is easy to glue together - or - you could use brass - there are several model shops who sell the very small U shaped brass sections and these could easily be soldered together - but I would suspect making them from plastic would be far quicker and a lot easier as well. Scribbled a diagram to show you; as this is how I made the ones for the Trawler Spashett.




Edited By bluebird on 17/09/2014 18:51:18

Thread: waterproofing balsa.
15/09/2014 17:26:33

hello Mr M see you have dragged me into this topic - as if I need dragging into anything about using fibre glass resin and tissue, saying I swear by it - I don't know about swear by the method but I have sworn at it a few times - especially when the resin hasn't gone off. & left with a gooey mess to try and clean up

teeth 2

Mick, there is a vast difference between polyester resin and epoxy resin; just to give you a broad outline; polyester resin is very temperamental in many ways and to being with :


  1. you have to get the mixture between hardener and resin spot on, if you don't add enough hardener the mix sometimes doesn't go off and can stay tacky for weeks on end. If you mix too much hardener in - it can go off rapidly generating great amounts of heat which can sometimes ignite. Or if it doesn't ignite it starts smoking and turns the mixture into a form of cinder toffee which unfortunately you cant eat.
  2. you have to have a reasonable temperature, no lower than 15 degrees and it has to be a dry area where you are working, this again can upset polyester resin. If the temperature is too low or too damp the resin wont go off.

That's just a couple of the downsides of polyester resin. The good side is its a lot cheaper than epoxy.


Now, for epoxy resins, one of the downsides is you have to be very careful while handling this because some people are very allergic to it, if it gets on the skin - it can cause some nasty rashes. It doesn't smell as strong as polyester resin, but it does have an odour. The good side of it is the mixing - one portion of hardener to an equal amount of resin. That is 1:1 ratio, on the majority of epoxy resins.


The next good thing about epoxy is that its not so temperamental to temperature - it will set at a lower temperature than polyester.


Now, we have been speaking about tissue matts - one has to remember this:

fibre glass tissue matt or heavier gauge matting cannot be used with epoxy resins. This is because the fibre glass matting has a bonding agent, which bonds the strands of glass together in the makeup and this bonding agent dissolves when polyester resin is mixed with it, but, it will not dissolve with epoxy and you just end up with a mess. Make sure you sue the correct materials for the epoxy.


Hope this is of some help.



I am finished editing now by the way


Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:29:05

Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:29:44

Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:30:51

Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:31:31

Thread: sealing hull
04/07/2014 19:41:30

Hi ya Pete


If you wake up Mr Dave Milbourne on this forum, he did a brilliant article for the Model Boats way in 1746 when he was a wee laddy regarding cover the hull with tissue and dope and I am unsure whether this article is available on this website. No doubt an old age pensioner Mr Milbourne will have a copy of it and its a step by step easy to follow method; this if followed to the word will produce an extremely good finished hull; I myself have used this method on several models - one being the Swordsman build and the other one being an MTB build; but, I personally myself prefer using a product called ZEpoxy its a 2 part finishing Epoxy and if its applied firstly with a brush and then spread with an old credit card an extremely smooth and even finish can be achieved without very little rubbing down when it dries. I should imagine that the product that Gareth has mentioned in his thread will be of the similar type only his you can wash the brushes out with water; the Z Epoxy is a true Epoxy and the brushes will be destroyed if you dont wash them out with Acetone. I shouldnt think there would be a need to use a tissue or a stocking as this is only basically a re-enforcement to bind the outer coating but hey ho...look forward to seeing your build. Hope this is of some help.



Edited By bluebird on 04/07/2014 19:51:50

Thread: Hobbies Annual 1941 - HMS Exeter
24/06/2014 16:52:53

hi ya Ian


if you go onto Mayhem and have a look on the warship section you will see someone has built HMS Exeter 1939 period - just afore the Battle of the River Plate. Ive had a good look at your plans, I copied them and enlarged them.

I can recognise a good bit of the plans and where they go - but - what I cannot see - is information with regard to the V aeroplane catapult - maybe that was part of the information which was contained in the book.

The other thing - your Airfix models of HMS Exeter - is it the KitMaster one? or the Frog one?

If so, this kit is of HMS Exeter after she was modified and had a major refit after Battle of The River Plate and this is different to the plans that you have. The closest model I know if, of HMS Exeter prior to her refit is the old Matchbox model.

Now, for my next question - when you say you are going to RC it - are you going to build the hull similar to the way you built HMS Hood's hull?

Because - I was thinking it may benefit you to build the hull similar to the way Glynn Guest builds his hulls. Have a look at HMS Penelope - there is a build of that on Mayhem as well. That was made from bits of scrap balsa.




Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:54:32

Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:55:29

Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:57:52

Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:59:49

Thread: Need advice for motor selection for a Vosper MTB build
30/05/2014 18:08:33

Hi ya Daniel whilst reading through your last PM, i noticed you asked about the weight - should you increase it for using in the sea - I wouldnt ncrease the weight of the hull it does perform well in rough water.

heres a thing now though, when you actually begin to build it why dont you put it on this forum so we can have a look and see - you will find its quite easy to download pics on this website you just create an album and download the pics from your album to the build

you dont have to worry about resizing the pics or anything like that like you do on certain websites the other bonus point about putting the build on this forum is that other people will read it and you may come across one or two problems which you can air on this forum.

and others may come up with another alternative answer than what I would give and you may find it will suit you down to the ground and it may be easier for you. When you have finished this build and if you like this style of build of semi scale - have a look at what else Glynn Guest has done - he has done some nice models - Also have a look at the Swordsman that Dave Milbourn drew - the build for that is on Mayhem which I myself made a few years back - another lovely model to build and sail. This particular model has travelled a few times with me on holiday as its a model which is easy packed up and sails well anywhere.

Ived built many a scale warship come other types of model which I enjoy doing but I really love doing these semi scale ones as there seems to be an extra bonus and zing from them.



28/05/2014 14:02:29

hi ya Daniel

if you check your personal messages on Mayhem you will find I have sent you a link where I got the rudder from. It gives yee the sizes of rudder on that link.



26/05/2014 19:19:16

Daniel, if you have a look in my album there are a couple more photographs of her under the heading Boats.


26/05/2014 19:18:44

Hi ya Daniel

The speed controller shown didnt come with the fuse fitted. I fitted an auto blade type fuse and holder to it. You can purchase these from Component Shop or Ebay and if you are running a 2.4 radio there is no real reason to surpress the motor - as 2.4 isnt prone to electrical interference from the motor. As a safeguard though, I always do surpress the motors - just in case in the future I swap the radio back to 40 mghz.



26/05/2014 18:52:29


Edited By bluebird on 26/05/2014 18:53:31

26/05/2014 18:17:20

hi ya Daniel, when I quoted the rpm I was honestly under the impression that I had originally fitted a Graupner speed 500 in the model which is rated at 17,600 rpm on 7.2 volt - it wasnt until I was having an eyeball at the model I built that I realised I had put the old Graupner motor in it. So what I will need to do now is go into the loft again and take some more pics.

if I were you, I would try and aim for 15,000 rpm,



26/05/2014 17:54:43

Hi ya there Daniel nice to see you on this forum as well. Ive just dug out the motor box from the original build I did on Mayhem - the motor is an old one from Graupner - a JUMBO 550 max voltage 9 volt and free running speed of 13,500 rpm. That would be on 9 volt. I used to run it on a 7.2 battery driving a 30 mm 2 blade plastic racing plop. The speed controller in it, I believe, is an MTroniks 15 amp. This will no doubt make Mr Milbourn's toes curl hearing of MTroniks cos he is an ACTion man



Thread: Model Boats Warships Special 2014
24/05/2014 08:44:00

I received my copy yesterday and I am thoroughly enjoying the read - obviously dedicated to us warship nuts and those who especially like Glynn Guest's style of building.

One bug - I wish they had included a free plan for HMS Lagos - one of them on my build list



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