Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Classic boats at Chichester|
hi ya there me marra
what's this about prop shaft angles eh? here is me reaching for me bible of all bibles - you cant argue against this guy - what he says is RIGHT - Peter Du Cane - from Vosper. I have several of these bibles from when I used to build the real 'I ammers' and somewhere from the depths of me mind from one of those books - it states - the angle of a prop shaft should be in the region of 13 degrees for a deep V hull of multi engine construction e.g. the Surfury and them rubbishy boats the erm erm what do you call them boats again that Mr Dave M likes nice looking boats thos isn't there in Colin's pics - yes sitting on the aft deck drinking Champers - but in my case cheap pop from Lidl or Aldi haha
|Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs|
LOOKING at the top pictures doesn't half bring back some nostalgic memories, some of them painful. The Sunday morning standing at the lakeside smelling of Kiel Kraft diesel fuel stinging fingers with cuts where the starting cord has cut into your fingers.- the darn things still wont start because the chances are you have flooded it that many times and after about 20 times of trying to start it the thing fires into life. You set it away on the lake and what happens - engine failure - right in the middle of the lake. So nothing more to do than sit on the bench at the park side waiting for it to drift in on the wind, along with several other boats. I couldn't afford a radio control those days
|Thread: Fitting out a tug|
Hi there Martin
These motors you have - the Johnsons 555 - do they have a fan in the rear of them inside the casing? If so, these are beasts to say the least - rather too thirsty on the amperage I would have thought. I have 2 of them mounted in my RAF Rescue Launch - and it planes across the water very nicely on 7.2 volts. Each motor is eaten away nicely at 15 amps driving a 35 mm x 3 blade prop. So please be a bit wary of using this type of motor in a model boat.
As for sealing the prop shaft, this is a long and well debated subject - but - it all boils down to the majority of us using either a grease of some description or a mixture of grease/oil. I would suggest that you do a web search and make your own decisions on the topic.
I helped a friend build his first model of the Sun XX1 tug from the MAP Plans way back when you could buy a pint of beer for less than 50pence - the motor fitted then was a 540 MFA - it was fitted to a 2:1 belt drive gear box which sadly seems to be no longer available from MFA - anyhoo - I know the model has gone through many a revamp and I believe now it is sitting with a 555 motor from Component Shop - rated at 12 volts - but I believe he runs it at about 7.2 driving a 3 blade 50 mm brass prop. Now if we go over to Mayhem - I built the MSC Archer which is a slightly smaller tug but it has a 4 blade 50 mm prop fitted. It is also fitted with the 555 motor running on 7.2 and it has an ACTion speed controller of the 10 amp (I think its the 10 amp one) and that goes along at a fair wack on full throttle enough for the bow wave to swamp the model - so plenty of power.
Edited By bluebird on 24/09/2016 09:53:24
|Thread: TEV Wahine 1/35 Build|
This is the closed loop system of rudder linkage on HMS YORK
with 2 rudder set up
Personally I prefer the closed loop system of rudder linkage. This is where you have 2 push rods from the servo going to the arms of the rudders and the rudders are connected with a tie bar - all adjustable. The reason for this is it evens out the stress on the servo. Think of a man riding a bike using one hand and one arm to steer on the handle bars. Its a lot easier if you have 2 hands on the handle bars to turn the corner.
I have including a pic of one of my models - admittedly this is a 3 rudder model - but the system is still the same.
Hi ya Bob
When the jig was first made I heated the whole lot up on the gas ring to do the silver soldering on the A Frames. Consequently I was banned from the house not only for the fumes, but from marking the top of the hob so in came plan B. Out with dad's old paraffin blow lamp (the old fashioned type) built a small hearth in the garden from firebricks and set about singeing me eyebrows whilst trying to light the blowlamp. Can you remember old 'prickers' for trying to clear the jet out. That was quite successful - I learned that if you place it on a firebrick and heated the whole lot up - it maintained the heat and I could silver solder it with a small butane gas torch as long as I heated the bricks up with the old blowlamp. But, for the smaller models such as HMS York and soforth I tend to soft solder the A Frame- because - to be honest I don't think there is much stress on the A Frames if you have your shaft alignmet set up correctly.
Edited By bluebird on 11/08/2016 17:55:01
I am a bit like Bob, I don't like the comment on such excellent work because it puts my offerings to shame, However, to help you out making your A Frames for your prop shafts, have you thought of making a simple jig similar to the one I constructed when I built HMS York - the type 42 Destroyer and also several other warships.
I have put a little picture on of the jig which I made and the way I get the angles of the legs is to put little packing pieces under the legs to alter the angles.
I hope this gives you some ideas,
|Thread: Power Boat Surfury|
Hi there William
I received your emails and sorry for the delay in responding,
When I originally built the model of The Surfury there seemed to be a lot more information and drawings available on the web. The one drawing I was looking for, and I have been trying to research is where there is a cutaway view of the Surfury which shows the position of her fuel tanks and if my memory serves me well, the 2 main fuel tanks are mounted either side of her twin engines (on the Surfury the 2 engines were in line driving fore and aft through a central V gearbox).
I am sure I remember reading that the main purpose of the ballast tanks, at the bow of the boat, were used to compensate the usage of fuel - as the boat progressed in the race (as the fuel is used the centre of gravity moves in the boat) and to bring it back to the central position for optimum performance, they would either pump water into the tanks or remove water, whichever was the case. Also to assist with the trim of the boat there are powered trimtabs on the stern which would be adjusted accordingly to bring the bow down.
my personal opinion, is that it is the worst thing to do to add weight to a performance model. My recommendation would be to dispense with the weight in the bow and move the batteries as far forward as is possible towards the bow and ensure that you incorporate adjustable trimtabs at the stern of the model and this way you will be able to trim the model to run the model at the correct trim and also keep the model as light as possible to get a greater performance.
and what do I know I am just a bluebird duck
Have you had any joy with the motors for your harbour defence motor launch - the reason I am asking is that I have been going through some vintage model boat magazines and I came across Radio Control Boat Modeller - October 1993. There is an article in there which is written by some guy called Paul Freshney - he built the award winning model from a plastic hull. I am trying to find out which type of motors he has in it. I suppose you could email the guy on this forum as he is now the leader of the pack for Model Boats Magazine and he may be able to assist your goodself.
|Thread: Power Boat Surfury|
I also built the Surfury a while ago, I used the Myhobbystore plans. Although the plans are a bit vague there was an article in the Model Boats magazine, I think its a 1969 issue - or circa ....where the hull is diagonally planked and soforth. In my model I fitted an I.C. engine and that was an Enya 19 model - it was purely built for nostalgia that model. I have tested my model in a test tank i.e. a rather large paddling pool - and basically that is as far as it got. The model still needs finishing off. The thing is with these models, and which you will already realise - with the hull being a steep V shape, they are brilliant in going in straight lines, but, when you try and turn them they are a nightmare. As far as powering it with brushless, I will be honest with you, I don't have a clue, because brushless is still a new field to me - along with lipo batteries & etc.
Couple of pics of my attempt
|Thread: My first ship|
Hi ya Bob
here are a few memory jogs for ya:
What is red and used to come to your front door and go put put put put put - with a man with a little blue uniform on....telegram boys haha
they used to deliver your telegram
dear sir, please pick up ship at so and so point ... maybe Liverpool Docks .. it was for me
can you remember the night before, checking all your stuff in your suitcase. For me, as engineer, it used to be 3 white boiler suits, one of them with no arms and cut down to shorts - cos it was very not in the engineroom. Then dress for the tropics - 3 pairs of white shorts; 3 shirts with short sleeves, 3 pairs of knee length socks, pair of white plimsoles; epiletts with your rank etc. and your Company button on.
and yes, boat was leaving Durban started off only being a run down to the Gulf, and got stuck in Khorramshahr at anchor for just under a month - happy days now that is another story.
For those who have never been to sea, it is an experience I can tell you. Well in 1974 it was. None of your ship to shore phones - we used to carry a Marconi wireless operator and all still done in morsecode and we also had a radar that sometimes worked.
Edited By bluebird on 25/07/2016 18:10:39
but the real one of 1974 City of Columbo down on the Persian Gulf run from Liverpool
|Thread: Hms Cumberland/ajax/exeter|
Just as I have said in my posting which appears just before yours Colin, it does show HMS Exeter after the major refit after the Battle of the River Plate, but the plan still has minor discrepancies - in the hull lines cross sections and some of the superstructure is wrong.
As has already been mentioned - there are a set of plans for HMS Exeter from My Hobbies Store. Personally I would class the available plans as semi-scale because there are several errors in the drawings. HMS Exeter is drawn as after her major refit - after the Battle of the River Plate.
There are several other sources of plans for Exeter on the World wide web but how accurate/ expensive they are I have no idea. The Maritime Museum in London hold plans for HMS Exeter, but, the majority of the plans for her are as she was to be built originally - before the final alterations - in other words she was to be built with 3 funnels and a tower bridge, similar to her sister HMS York.
As far as the other sets of plans, HMS Ajax/HMS Cumberland are concerned - there is a set of drawings for these ships - and they were drawn by Norman A. Ough which again are held in with the sets by David MacGregor which are held by SS Great Britain Trust. Where they are in releasing them for sale to the general public, I have no idea cos I have heard so many stories.
If you have a look in my albums you will see where I built HMS Exeter from plans from the Maritime Museum also a lot of personal photographs.
Hope this is of some help.
|Thread: Vosper rttl|
Hi Mark do you have the original article which goes with the Plan from the December 1958 magazine?
which actually tells you how to construct the hull "the hull is skinned with 1/16 ply and if you are using the scale cross sections, it is not possible to negotiate the compound curves with a single sheet. Cut the ply into fore and aft strip and plank in stages - then it tells you to paint the inside of the joints with glue after completion". That is just a slight extract from the build article.
The props are 3 bladers 30 mm o/d both right handers and the motors are
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:48:02
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:49:21
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:50:02
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:59:30
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:59:51
Hi there Mark69
I am sure you are aware that the plan from which you are building was originally published in The Model Maker in 1958 also in those days, not long after the War, model making materials were still pretty difficult to get hold of in any shape or form.; Normally you built with what you could get your hands on and Vic Smeed was brilliant in designing plans around 'what you can get your hands on' and this particular plan is one of them. There are several issues of this actual plan being a stand off scale plan with only very small errors in the actual plan. One of them is the chine line which isn't quite correct at the bow and also as you have already found out the flare on the hull sides and the bottom aren't quite correct on the plan.
The Model I built, which you may have seen on Model Mayhem was constructed with the help of many photographs from a guy called Christian Shepherd and this is where we corrected the slight errors. This is why I used about 5 stringers per side on the bottom and I think about 5 on the hull side. Then I double diagonally planked the hull - this allowed me to correctly follow the curvatures/flares of the hull sides and bottom. The reason I double diagonally planked it was to create a form of cold pressed ply wood which is a lot stronger and lighter than single skin.
The trick with building these hulls is build them strong but light. With modern materials you should be able to cut a lot of the frames out in the middle to decrease the weight of the model and therefore in doing this you don't need use powerful brushless motors. Just run on standard brushed motors.
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:24:52
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:28:35
|Thread: Information needed on Fairmile Launch article|
To my knowledge this vessel is actually a converted harbour defence launch and not a Fairmile. If we have a look for the article in Model Boats about harbour defence launches round about the dates that have been mentioned by Colin that may be more helpful. The only thing I can think of is - if it is a Fairmile - the only one that I can think of would be the one that was planned and I don't think it was built was the Fairmile F.
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