Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hms Cumberland/ajax/exeter|
Just as I have said in my posting which appears just before yours Colin, it does show HMS Exeter after the major refit after the Battle of the River Plate, but the plan still has minor discrepancies - in the hull lines cross sections and some of the superstructure is wrong.
As has already been mentioned - there are a set of plans for HMS Exeter from My Hobbies Store. Personally I would class the available plans as semi-scale because there are several errors in the drawings. HMS Exeter is drawn as after her major refit - after the Battle of the River Plate.
There are several other sources of plans for Exeter on the World wide web but how accurate/ expensive they are I have no idea. The Maritime Museum in London hold plans for HMS Exeter, but, the majority of the plans for her are as she was to be built originally - before the final alterations - in other words she was to be built with 3 funnels and a tower bridge, similar to her sister HMS York.
As far as the other sets of plans, HMS Ajax/HMS Cumberland are concerned - there is a set of drawings for these ships - and they were drawn by Norman A. Ough which again are held in with the sets by David MacGregor which are held by SS Great Britain Trust. Where they are in releasing them for sale to the general public, I have no idea cos I have heard so many stories.
If you have a look in my albums you will see where I built HMS Exeter from plans from the Maritime Museum also a lot of personal photographs.
Hope this is of some help.
|Thread: Vosper rttl|
Hi Mark do you have the original article which goes with the Plan from the December 1958 magazine?
which actually tells you how to construct the hull "the hull is skinned with 1/16 ply and if you are using the scale cross sections, it is not possible to negotiate the compound curves with a single sheet. Cut the ply into fore and aft strip and plank in stages - then it tells you to paint the inside of the joints with glue after completion". That is just a slight extract from the build article.
The props are 3 bladers 30 mm o/d both right handers and the motors are
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:48:02
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:49:21
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:50:02
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:59:30
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:59:51
Hi there Mark69
I am sure you are aware that the plan from which you are building was originally published in The Model Maker in 1958 also in those days, not long after the War, model making materials were still pretty difficult to get hold of in any shape or form.; Normally you built with what you could get your hands on and Vic Smeed was brilliant in designing plans around 'what you can get your hands on' and this particular plan is one of them. There are several issues of this actual plan being a stand off scale plan with only very small errors in the actual plan. One of them is the chine line which isn't quite correct at the bow and also as you have already found out the flare on the hull sides and the bottom aren't quite correct on the plan.
The Model I built, which you may have seen on Model Mayhem was constructed with the help of many photographs from a guy called Christian Shepherd and this is where we corrected the slight errors. This is why I used about 5 stringers per side on the bottom and I think about 5 on the hull side. Then I double diagonally planked the hull - this allowed me to correctly follow the curvatures/flares of the hull sides and bottom. The reason I double diagonally planked it was to create a form of cold pressed ply wood which is a lot stronger and lighter than single skin.
The trick with building these hulls is build them strong but light. With modern materials you should be able to cut a lot of the frames out in the middle to decrease the weight of the model and therefore in doing this you don't need use powerful brushless motors. Just run on standard brushed motors.
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:24:52
Edited By bluebird on 26/06/2016 18:28:35
|Thread: Information needed on Fairmile Launch article|
To my knowledge this vessel is actually a converted harbour defence launch and not a Fairmile. If we have a look for the article in Model Boats about harbour defence launches round about the dates that have been mentioned by Colin that may be more helpful. The only thing I can think of is - if it is a Fairmile - the only one that I can think of would be the one that was planned and I don't think it was built was the Fairmile F.
|Thread: Spider J|
I promise I will keep me fingers off the keyboard after this and let you get on with your build. But, I like the new tool for producing rivet marks - another thought is using an old clock gear wheel mounted in an old file hand to produce the rivet marks in the Plasticard.
If you cant get the correct spacing for the rivets what you can do is file the teeth away on the cog between the spacings that you require.
I know I used to get my old clock cogs from a flea market in Shields - I used to go round and there were one or two stalls that had old bits of clocks on.
Hi ya Gareth
I have just caught up with this build. Had a good read and thoroughly enjoying it!
Couple of things went through my mind The first one was, I know you are going to use Plasticard for your plating. At this present moment - I myself am rebuilding my model of the Boston Blenheim which I built in the late 1980s early 1990s and for the majority of the upper works - I used Plasticard for the bulwarks, bridge etc. When I was bringing the model down from the loft I knocked it on the side of the hatch - catching some of the plastic which abruptly shattered into lots of bits and also part of the plastic turned to a powder-like substance.
I wont go into too much detail about it.
Anyway, what made me think - is my experience of using the Plasticard as plating on other models - as you are intending to do - which has brought into question the length of life of the Plasticard and all the work you will put into it.
I was originally given a few sheets of printers' Lithoplate (a very thin aluminium) to try that as plating. But, I found, for me to get it to stick successfully to the hull sides (which had been fibre glassed) I had to abrade the contact side of the Lithoplate with emery cloth and I was using Superglue as a bonding agent - as I couldn't get away with using contact adhesives.
Also, my next thought for your wife's build of the barge; have you thought of double-planking the hull? Using a similar method as these Hatchett magazine people do in their Bismark/HMS Hood/Titanic builds. I myself have used a similar build to this on my last hull (Cargo vessel - Troyburgh). The first layer of planking I did as normal; using fillers to fill any discrepancy in the hull and sanded down. The next layer of planking was put over the top so the planks overlapped the joints of the first layer of planking and this final layer of planking was again sanded smoothly and filled with car body filler. Then instead of using fibre glass and tissue to seal the hull I used Z-Epoxy finishing resin without any matting or any woven materials; painted on as you would varnish.
This was allowed to dry and then sanded with wet n dry sandpaper to achieve the desired finish.
Just food for thought for your next build, cos if you do the outer planking neatly you can see and feel it through the Epoxy resin. I have done this style of build on several vessels and they have worked out pretty well.
Last, but not least, you may have already read it - but have you come across the book from Tree to Sea - about the building of a wooden drifter/last of the wooden vessels. It's a very interesting insight into building and it would give you a good idea of how some of the barges/sloops would have been built.
Edited By bluebird on 05/07/2015 18:52:06
|Thread: somethings not right|
I have had a quick eyeball of this model on Ebay and it looks a good model - price is a bit steep I think - but, everything is expensive these days.
To me the rudder has been 'flipped' round and that makes it look a bit close and in the wrong place and with regard to the prop shaft angles, they seem pretty close to the original on the real 'I am' boats. I think on the life sized ones I think they are around 13 degrees which look about right on this model.
The original boat also had 3 shafts and this one looks as though she is only twin, and I do think it wouldn't be too difficult if you wanted to add an extra shaft and reposition new rudders - 3 off. It does look a very well made model though.
Just my thoughts:
|Thread: Model Boats Special 2015|
Well, I am pleased to say that my addition of the Magazine came through the post today and it is, up to now, a very enjoyable read. Well done Mr Bishop, the articles are well put together. of course also Mr Milbourn we will make a modeller out of you yet!
May I ask you and the rest of the editors of the Model Boats never to allow the magazine to go fully digital - because when one is holding a magazine it is personal and obviously can be read anywhere without annoying anyone, even in the middle of the night - by torchlight (got no electricity in the North East of England you know
|Thread: Tyne Class Lifeboat model plans|
hi can anyone help me please?
Can anyone indicate which Magazine and the date these plans appeared in the Magazine.
I do know there are a set of plans which are for sale on the dreaded ubbay but I would prefer to purchase the Magazine in one piece or buy them from MyHobbiesStore.
|Thread: Absolute beginner|
hello there Colin,
Why aye the Exeter finished - but it hasn't had sea trials.
Ive been having a rest from my modelling - doing other things now I got another build on the go
What surprises me for the price of £39 for the Balsa wood and plan - but do you get the article as well for that price? Cos don't forget one has to purchase hardware so you can stick another £30 on easily and if you haven't got the radio gear you can say there is another £40 so what starts off to be a cheap model - becomes very expensive. Good thing is tho - when you build from scratch you can budget weekly/monthly and only purchase the parts you need, when you need them.
Edited By bluebird on 07/03/2015 17:33:31
Hi Jeremy you have to be a member of Mayhem to see the pics
Colin I think I built the full boat for less than £39 and that was with the motor /propshaft and coupling included
|Thread: Deck Stanchions|
Hi, have you ever thought of making your own from Evergreen Plastic Strip? Buy it in various shapes and sizes and it is easy to glue together - or - you could use brass - there are several model shops who sell the very small U shaped brass sections and these could easily be soldered together - but I would suspect making them from plastic would be far quicker and a lot easier as well. Scribbled a diagram to show you; as this is how I made the ones for the Trawler Spashett.
Edited By bluebird on 17/09/2014 18:51:18
|Thread: waterproofing balsa.|
hello Mr M see you have dragged me into this topic - as if I need dragging into anything about using fibre glass resin and tissue, saying I swear by it - I don't know about swear by the method but I have sworn at it a few times - especially when the resin hasn't gone off. & left with a gooey mess to try and clean up
Mick, there is a vast difference between polyester resin and epoxy resin; just to give you a broad outline; polyester resin is very temperamental in many ways and to being with :
That's just a couple of the downsides of polyester resin. The good side is its a lot cheaper than epoxy.
Now, for epoxy resins, one of the downsides is you have to be very careful while handling this because some people are very allergic to it, if it gets on the skin - it can cause some nasty rashes. It doesn't smell as strong as polyester resin, but it does have an odour. The good side of it is the mixing - one portion of hardener to an equal amount of resin. That is 1:1 ratio, on the majority of epoxy resins.
The next good thing about epoxy is that its not so temperamental to temperature - it will set at a lower temperature than polyester.
Now, we have been speaking about tissue matts - one has to remember this:
fibre glass tissue matt or heavier gauge matting cannot be used with epoxy resins. This is because the fibre glass matting has a bonding agent, which bonds the strands of glass together in the makeup and this bonding agent dissolves when polyester resin is mixed with it, but, it will not dissolve with epoxy and you just end up with a mess. Make sure you sue the correct materials for the epoxy.
Hope this is of some help.
I am finished editing now by the way
Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:29:05
Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:29:44
Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:30:51
Edited By bluebird on 15/09/2014 17:31:31
|Thread: sealing hull|
Hi ya Pete
If you wake up Mr Dave Milbourne on this forum, he did a brilliant article for the Model Boats way in 1746 when he was a wee laddy regarding cover the hull with tissue and dope and I am unsure whether this article is available on this website. No doubt an old age pensioner Mr Milbourne will have a copy of it and its a step by step easy to follow method; this if followed to the word will produce an extremely good finished hull; I myself have used this method on several models - one being the Swordsman build and the other one being an MTB build; but, I personally myself prefer using a product called ZEpoxy its a 2 part finishing Epoxy and if its applied firstly with a brush and then spread with an old credit card an extremely smooth and even finish can be achieved without very little rubbing down when it dries. I should imagine that the product that Gareth has mentioned in his thread will be of the similar type only his you can wash the brushes out with water; the Z Epoxy is a true Epoxy and the brushes will be destroyed if you dont wash them out with Acetone. I shouldnt think there would be a need to use a tissue or a stocking as this is only basically a re-enforcement to bind the outer coating but hey ho...look forward to seeing your build. Hope this is of some help.
Edited By bluebird on 04/07/2014 19:51:50
|Thread: Hobbies Annual 1941 - HMS Exeter|
hi ya Ian
if you go onto Mayhem and have a look on the warship section you will see someone has built HMS Exeter 1939 period - just afore the Battle of the River Plate. Ive had a good look at your plans, I copied them and enlarged them.
I can recognise a good bit of the plans and where they go - but - what I cannot see - is information with regard to the V aeroplane catapult - maybe that was part of the information which was contained in the book.
The other thing - your Airfix models of HMS Exeter - is it the KitMaster one? or the Frog one?
If so, this kit is of HMS Exeter after she was modified and had a major refit after Battle of The River Plate and this is different to the plans that you have. The closest model I know if, of HMS Exeter prior to her refit is the old Matchbox model.
Now, for my next question - when you say you are going to RC it - are you going to build the hull similar to the way you built HMS Hood's hull?
Because - I was thinking it may benefit you to build the hull similar to the way Glynn Guest builds his hulls. Have a look at HMS Penelope - there is a build of that on Mayhem as well. That was made from bits of scrap balsa.
Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:54:32
Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:55:29
Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:57:52
Edited By bluebird on 24/06/2014 16:59:49
|Thread: Need advice for motor selection for a Vosper MTB build|
Hi ya Daniel whilst reading through your last PM, i noticed you asked about the weight - should you increase it for using in the sea - I wouldnt ncrease the weight of the hull it does perform well in rough water.
heres a thing now though, when you actually begin to build it why dont you put it on this forum so we can have a look and see - you will find its quite easy to download pics on this website you just create an album and download the pics from your album to the build
you dont have to worry about resizing the pics or anything like that like you do on certain websites the other bonus point about putting the build on this forum is that other people will read it and you may come across one or two problems which you can air on this forum.
and others may come up with another alternative answer than what I would give and you may find it will suit you down to the ground and it may be easier for you. When you have finished this build and if you like this style of build of semi scale - have a look at what else Glynn Guest has done - he has done some nice models - Also have a look at the Swordsman that Dave Milbourn drew - the build for that is on Mayhem which I myself made a few years back - another lovely model to build and sail. This particular model has travelled a few times with me on holiday as its a model which is easy packed up and sails well anywhere.
Ived built many a scale warship come other types of model which I enjoy doing but I really love doing these semi scale ones as there seems to be an extra bonus and zing from them.
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