Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: TEV Wahine 1/35 Build|
Hi ya Richard
I have been spending a bit of time doing a bit research on different adhesives - no doubt you will have done so yourself. One of the things that came to mind - I wonder what the aero industry use when they glue their aluminium components together and also to other materials. This adhesive must withstand extreme temperatures/heat and movement without coming apart. The other thing, when I was doing research that kept coming up a lot were motor cycle forums - people asking what glues to use for bonding aluminium and materials to carbon fibre. I know you will have your choice of which way you are going to go but something you may not have thought of and if you haven't thought of this - it may give you an area to look into.
Best of luck - I admire you for what you are undertaking and it will be worth it in the end. Cos, I know how I felt when people asked me questions about HMS Exeter. One of the comments was I should have put it in a glass case and let the Maritime Museum have it - worth all the hard work that is.
Edited By bluebird on 30/05/2017 17:17:39
Just as a side thought - and God knows we have a few of them - why do we really need to apply plating to the side of the hull and also assimilate the rippling. The reason I ask that I spent a lot of time researching the plating for HMS Exeter - then I applied the plating to the hull using styrene sheet. It took me a long time to get it right. When you have a couple of coats of paint on the model it becomes less visible and, if you stand say 2-3 feet away - you can just making the plating out. When I sailed the model on the lake - one had no idea at all that it was plated. It was only when the model was on a stand and people were asking questions about it and I was pointing it out that they realised. So, can you see what I mean? If your model is going to spending a lot of time being viewed by the public and out of the water, yes, it will be worth the effort. But, if it is going to live its life as a 'normal' model - i.e. in and out of the water and enjoy the sailing of it - it may not be worth going to the effort of detailing the plating/applying plating
I have the same concerns as the previous post - about the expansion rates of the aluminium and the timber. I have been trying to do some Google research and you will have done so as well - I didn't realise that aluminium expands at such a rate and also contracts and is prone to temperature so much. When they use it on lifesize vessels they have to build special expansion joints on the superstructure to accommodate its movement,. Bit experiment may pay dividends.
Lithoplate, which I have used - and I must confess don't like using it that much - I found it difficult to glue to timber - even with epoxy. After a while I could get a scalpel blade to part the aluminium lithoplate from the timber.
|Thread: Brenda - A renaissance|
hi ya Colin,
Credit to you she looks brilliant on the water that feeling when you first put the model in the water and you have so many eyes watching - its a weird feeling - cos you know you have checked everything on the bench and everything should go right - but that feeling when she sails off just perfect - great.
|Thread: Automatic boiler water level control system with phototransistor.|
a while ago there was an article in Model Boats magazine on How to construct an electronic boiler feed circuit similar to the one you have done above. I built this circuit just out of curiosity myself, and I was going to alter it for operating other things - here is a link to another site which I did the write up on for those who are interested.
|Thread: A step in the right direction!|
Hi ya Bob
What has your boat club Committee done about the public and their danger to the wildlife? To give you an example of how daft the ruling is that your Committee has proposed - the Club I belong to was opened before Charles Parson launched the Turbinia in 1894 and the lake was purposely built for the gentry to sail their yachts on. There has always been wild life on that lake from the start - if you dig a hole and fill it with water, nature takes over, and you cannot prevent this. You will always have wild fowl connected with the water and what you have to do is live side by side with the wild life. If the Committee has done its job, they should have educated those with fast boats to keep away from the wild life, which no doubt they will do. or, at least try their hardest to do.
The people that we need to educate are the general public - they do more harm to the wildlife than any model boaters do - to give you a class example - last Sunday a group of people feeding the swans and geese at the lakeside with stale bread and whatnot - finished feeding them and promptly threw the plastic bag in the lake. Two things wrong there obviously - and there are several large noticed to say do not feed the wildlife BREAD - its bad for their digestion and it sinks to the bottom of the lake and contaminates the lake.
A plastic bag speak for itself - the other one that got my goat is the lady with the dog - one running riot chasing the birds. She was just laughing thinking its great - one of the birds had its young out on the water.
So, I think you should re-evaluate what you are doing.
|Thread: Looking for a model to get started...|
been looking through old pics to see if I can find better pic of HMS PENELOPE . Found a couple but as an afterthought - I am sure that Glyn Guest drew a plan and made the model for a stand off Type 21 warship.
hi there, I can only endorse what has already been said about Glynn Guest's models - I have built several models from his plans - and as above, I built the MTB as per plan, with a standard motor and my model is very fast indeed.
If you have a look on Mayhem, there is a build on there of my MTB - but - be quick as every time Mayhem goes down we seem to lose some pics from postings. I found that out this afternoon when I was searching on Mayhem for a different topic.
Here are a couple of pics (MTB) and HMS PENELOPE on the water
|Thread: Oil Tanker|
Hi ya Bob
Are you not going to tell the readers - and those who have had nothing to do with oil tankers - one of the main downsides with them - the smell of the crude oil - there is no way to describe this smell - but, it gets into your skin and on your clothes and it stays with you for days (even when you have left the ship) you can smell it on ya body.
One of the jobs an apprentice in the shipyard has (as I know) what we used to call extended spindles on the oil tankers and basically on the deck of a tanker ship you have many handwheels which control valves down in the bowels of the tanks; one of the jobs of the apprentice was to remove the long spindles and repair them. You were working in the tanks for days on end (obviously going home and back ) everyone in the street knew there was a tanker in -they could smell it -on you
then the valves had to be stripped down and overhauled - oh happy days
Edited By bluebird on 06/05/2017 19:15:05
Edited By bluebird on 06/05/2017 19:15:43
|Thread: Tug Motors|
Hi there - large models are okay and finding power plants to fit them can and has been done - have a look at the link that I have posted about this guy's model/s. Where this all falls down is the physical size of the model and the weight - that is where it all falls foul if Dave remembers the first Mayhem when Marc took my Leeds Castle model down for me - he had a 'people carrier' to take it in - and my car I took the 3 batteries to power it (3 x 12 volt 14 amp batteries) and this gives you an indication of the actual weight of the model - it took two of us to lift it into the water. Although it has been sailed several times - it spent most of its life sitting on the shelf. This is due to the fact that its like an Army exercise to get it ready to go down to the water . There aren't many people who participate in model boating who are prepared to spend a lot of time at the lakeside preparing the model ready to sail it and this is only one of the downsides of any large model. Just my experience of it and my thoughts
Edited By bluebird on 25/04/2017 08:19:53
Hi Bob Ab - sorry for my posting - I certainly wasn't referring to the Model - Brutus - and its designer. My opinion of that is - it reminds me of a straight running model from Tynemouth. That one used to run in the course of a banana. To go back to the actual vessel of the super yacht Golden Supersport - what really concerned me - is - if you look towards the rear end - you will see what looks like giant air intakes. Especially so, if you look at the rear view of the model you will see there are no openings at the stern for any exit of water that is drawn into what looks like the air intakes.
If you have a look at the yard site, they who produced the vessel and look at more pics as I have done - I see that these ;air intakes; are actually stabilisers. Still no signs of her running in rough weather though I wouldn't like to be caught in a force 10 gale in this super yacht - it may upset the hot tub and champers
I would like to know what the designers of this hull are on and were they smoking it or taking it or even drinking it - before they went to the drawing board. At one time; we used to design 'nice' looking hulls. I would love to see how practical this design of this hull would be in rough seas/weather. I have been looking for photographs and they all seem to be taken on very calm days - bit like the designers mind me thinking along with a bit of Dave's country odour of rural farmyard nature
|Thread: Plan reading|
DM the cheque is in the post
With regard to plans - are they the free plans from April 2017 Model Boats for the Classic 1950s Sputnik Trawler? drawn by James A Pottinger. If so, the frames are read off as this:
looking from the stern of the vessel; first frame T is transom;
the half frame is the central line of your rudder post -
frame 1 gives the position of approx. positions of the propeller boss
and they work upwards towards the bow
Nice plans, could be a future build - but - if you go over to the Mayhem Forum and seek out the build for the Trawler Sea Lady - Angel Emial- it has a similar sort of setup with the flat stern.
Edited By bluebird on 12/04/2017 19:29:19
|Thread: Three props|
You are quite correct, there were several MTBs and MGBs built during the War which had all the props turning in the same direction. One of the main reasons was a short supply of the reverse gear boxes. To cut a long story short, after the War, they did experiment with configuration of rotation of propellers - they found there was a slight improvement in speed with all the props turning in the same direction - but - only a slight improvement.
One of the most notorious vessels that Royal Air Force had built was the 68 ft RTTL It originally started off with 3 props but then was reduced and re-engine to have 2 props (all rotating in the same direction) and this vessel was renowned to have prop walk especially when diving off the top of a wave at speed. On numerous occasions, several of these vessels, split the hull at the bow. So, what Vosper tried to do for one of the fixes was add an extra layer of planking to the bottom and then they experimented with an aluminium hull.
If I can find the pics, they will follow
Edited By bluebird on 12/03/2017 19:01:10
Edited By bluebird on 12/03/2017 19:01:37
Edited By bluebird on 12/03/2017 19:02:04
Hi one of the main reasons the rudder is off centre to the prop shaft is that the thrust from the prop isn't even on either side of it. There is more thrust on one side therefore you place the rudder in this side of the thrust flow to make the rudder more efficient. Also smaller diameter props are used with coarser pitches to help with cavitation on high revving engines - here are a couple of pics of the real I am (Vosper perkassa).
Edited By bluebird on 12/03/2017 10:33:07
Edited By bluebird on 12/03/2017 10:33:51
|Thread: Quick question|
Many moons ago, there used to be a bloke called Mike Mayhew; he used to build Thames Barges from cornflake boxes and they used to sail. The old Man Dave Milbourn's friend Riggers, used to know him well. How he used to seal them, I believe he used to coat them with resin I believe. As has already been stated personally I wouldn't use MDF in water due to the fact that it falls apart when damp. Plank with either cedar or lime and plywood frames and make plenty provision for lead ballast in the bottom of the hull. Seal the hull with epoxy resin.
Edited By bluebird on 11/03/2017 09:39:57
|Thread: TEV Wahine 1/35 Build|
hi there Richard
Good few year ago, I built a model of the Moray Forth a Coastal Cargo ship, although, only small compared to the one you are building - I assimilated the plating on the hull exterior, the same way you are planning on doing - I used 0.5 thick Plasticard - I used the thick variety of Superglue from GRIP - much later, when I have completed my model of HMS Exeter, which is roughly 70 inches long - and I followed the same procedure. For tight curves and places like that, I preformed the Plasticard around a variety of different diameter round steel tubes - and I warmed the Plasticard in hot water. So far, touch wood, I have completed 4-5 models using the same method and the plates haven't detached from the hull. Using a thick grade Superglue allows you to move the plates around. I also used a small wallpaper roller; the type you use to roll the seams on wallpaper - to roll the Plasticard to ensure there were no air bubbles underneath it.
If you want to include rivet detailing as well - the method I used was an old brass cog well from an alarm clock - mounted on a handle to allow the cog to rotate. With this and the aid of a steel ruler; I could do rows of rivets on the edge of the plates.
|Thread: Classic boats at Chichester|
Hi there Paul
I take it by your last statement that you are more of a book basher than an actually hands on designer builder of the real item. If you were actually involved in boat design you may realise its not off the cuff and its as simple as that. You have to make many compromises and many adjustments in the process of design/building to achieve the ultimate goal - of either personal requirements or the requirements of the customer.
Yes, I did design and build a hull that I am pretty proud of.
Paul, tongue in cheek, you and I could discuss for a long time the subject of the different designs of props and the rights and wrongs - such as surface piercing props with flexi drive; z drives; with counter rotating props - and we could go on forever. But we would only drive them asleep here on this forum. There are so many things that can be prove wrong - especially with a zero angled drive.. Peter Du Cane was my bible during my design work of real boats.
Edited By bluebird on 26/10/2016 20:04:56
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