Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Jigsaw picture|
Star of India ?
|Thread: Virgin Atlantic challenger 2|
If you have a look at the Virgin Atlantic which I built - look at the railings - they are made from copper wire. In actual fact the wire is 15 amp twin core & earth grey wire with all the insulation stripped off. Each copper strand was cut into several lengths approximately 2 foot long and then one end of each piece of wire was secured in a vice, and I gripped the other end of the copper wire with a pair of pliers and then pulled taut to stretch the copper wire and also straighten it. At the same time I wrapped a piece of wire wool around the wire and pulled it along the wire to abrade it. This helps the adhesion of the paint when you paint it. The thinner rails are made from 5 amp bell wire - stretched out in the same way and treated with the same method with the wire wool I have used this method of about 45 years on each model that required railings of all scales and it works for me. The only time I have had harassment of corrosion is when I have been 'too lazy' to clean the flux off the solder joints which then - in turn - in a couple of weeks time leaves a green gunge around the joint. just some food for thought.
Edited By John W E on 10/04/2018 17:06:24
|Thread: Disarmodel Vanguard tug as RC|
Hi there Petr and welcome to the Forum here.
It is a lovely looking kit - but - after I have done a good search on the Web - I cannot find any information where someone had motorised this kit. I have a feeling it is meant to be a static kit. Do you have any information or viewed Forums where someone has motorised the kit? If so, that may be a lead for you. There has to be someone on this planet who has motorised this kit but maybe they aren't people who frequent forums.
If it turns out to be a static kit, it may be a little difficult to motorise it and ballast easily on the water. Hope it can be motorised cos there are various ways of sealing the hull with epoxy resins on the outside and also numerous ways of driving the paddles using belts etc.
Let us know how any progress - try other kit manufactures from the UK - such as Deans or Model Slipway. Just to name but two. Also if you look up a Company called Cornwall Model Boats - they list numerous amounts of kit manufacturers.
Also on the Home page for this forum - look on the right hand side for advertisements for kit manufacturers.
|Thread: Virgin Atlantic challenger 2|
just been trying to get the link to work - but I cant for some reason - my browser isn't allowing me to copy and paste it properly. Maybe Mr Bishop will be able to put it right - or if you wish - just type in the search box Virgin Atlantic 2 and this brings up several postings on the topic.
hi ya Nick intriguing build - looks interesting the twin drives and rudders - as far as plans go there are a set of semi scale plans for the Virgin atlantic 2 boat issued with model boats mag, back in the 1980s - which I built my version from - and so have several others on this Forum. Although this version is only single prop, it suffers from cavitation if you try to do tight turns with it A member of this forum has managed to rectify this problem by fitting a standard dagger type rudder instead of the horseshoe. Here is a link to one or two of the builds on this forum which you may find interesting.
|Thread: Bending Deck Planks|
just as a side note Colin you will find when the deck planks have dried out and are released from the jig, they will spring a bit. I overcame this problem when I actually glued the deck plank to the model - I held it in place with dress making pins until the glue had dried on the plank. This seemed to do the trick.
hi there Colin
the deck planks I used for HMS Exeter build and a few of the fishing boats, I obtained from Jotika - they can supply a variety of materials/timber in varying sizes. I used 0.5 thick x 3mm (I think it was lime) for the decks of the warship. For the decks of the fishing boats I used a wider plank 5mm wide x 0.5 mm thick. I made a simple jig up out of scrap plywood half inch thick for the base of the jig and for the actual piece that was to form the actual bend of the plank I used a thinner piece of plywood roughly quarter of an inch. This was glued and screwed on top of the base plywood towards the edge. I wet the plank in warm water and moulded it around the radius of the template and then held it in place with clamps until dry. I am attempting to attach a bit of a sketch but no so successful at the moment due to the fact this old modeller has just purchased a new computer with the new Windows 10 on. My computer doesn't like me anymore
|Thread: RAF Launch question|
Here's a link Chas, to Christian's website.
Edited By bluebird on 08/12/2017 18:47:50
Hi ya Chas - a guy you could contact is Christian he owns MTB Hulls and he also has a website. The gent has a lot of access to information on Coastal Forces Launches and he will more than likely be able to help with your enquiry. He also has a website which you may be able to contact him through. He sometimes frequents this forum and also on Mayhem. He has furnished me with several images of these launches - but at the moment due to the fact I have this new computer which doesn't seem to like files from me old computer - so it will be a bit of a time before I can download all me files regarding these type of launches. John
Edited By bluebird on 08/12/2017 18:40:22
Edited By bluebird on 08/12/2017 18:45:48
Edited By bluebird on 08/12/2017 18:49:10
|Thread: RTTL help please|
Hi ya there Peter
Simplicity is sometimes the best policy by keeping it single prop - although I am not a great lover of brushless motors - I prefer the old ones (plug in and play ) instead of having to programme but that just me ..
The motor Dave Milbourn has mentioned will no doubt do the job - the thing to remember is - when Vic Smeed originally drew the plans up for 99% of his plans it was to use with materials that were available at the time. When the RTTL plans were originally drawn in the 1950s there wasn't a great choice of materials to build the craft from or was there a very good choice of motors to power the craft - compared to what we have these days.
Taking that into consideration we can now build a model using lighter materials and therefore requiring much less power to propel the model in the motor apartment to achieve a greater speed and this is why when I built my RTTL I only used 4mm ply for the bulkheads and I removed the centres of all of them which, if you have a look at the plan which Vic has drawn. you can see he has left several bulkheads 'solid'. He also uses a very thick keel which I reduced down to 4mm in thickness.
Hope this has given you some food for thought. John
Edited By bluebird on 14/11/2017 16:00:50
Hi there Peter - are you going to build the model as per Plan single prop? or twin prop or even triple prop as some of these boats were? If you do a search on Mayhem - I build this model using Vic Smeed's plans as a reference and also I used an awful lot of original material from Vosper. My model has twin props both rotating in the same direction as per original. Props are 32 mm diameter 3 bladers and Mtronik motors vision 600s.
Edited By bluebird on 13/11/2017 17:50:16
|Thread: Beginners luck|
looking art that motor reminds me of years ago before the internet and Ebay were every invented we used to buy a magazine called Exchange and Mart - can anyone remember it? You could get 100s and 1000s of goodies to be bought a sold and in among them were surplus electric gear from the Armed Forces and one of the favourites were bomb site motors - we modellers used to look for them - they were small and compact - the only drawback was they were between 18 and 24 volts; very low amps and this motor reminds me of that.
One new trick I have learned lately, from my son, to remove paint use Dettol - and it has to be the brand Dettol - soak the parts from which you want to remove the paint in Dettol in a sealed container - and it takes the paint off the plastics without doing too much damage.
The model looks well worth restoring back to its original former glory - as the original builder had intended.
Just my thoughts anyway
|Thread: FC Sturrock/Frans W plans|
as Ashley has pointed out; hopefully in the near future the plans may be available once again from a new source. If not, and it doesn't work out right; Jim Pottinger drew the plans for the tug FC Sturrock and I know Jim is on Facebook and I have purchased plans directly from him in the past. So if all else fails, or you are in bother trying to get them, maybe try and get in touch with Jim Pottinger directly.
|Thread: ANY INFO ON THIS MODEL PLEASE !|
hi ya Steve - there is one way round of learning about our hobby and that is one of the oldest ways going long before computers. There are several excellent books on the market:
for beginners and everyone
one of them should be on every shelf of any modeller and that book is by a guy known as Vic Smeed, he has written a book called Boat Modelling
the other one is a book buy John Cundell, the ex-author of Model Boat Magazine and his book is called Radio Control in Model Boats
Dated books they may be - but the information they give you will give you a good grounding on all of basics of model boats construction & their internals.
the model looks quite familiar, I am sure it may come from Glynn G stables or even from Marine Modelling plans; if you have a look at pics that show the internals - the top left hand corner shows evidence of a servo mounting and what looks like a tiller bar or a push rod to the rudder. If you move this bar back and forwards, does the rudder move? I will have a search for more information - I will be back
|Thread: making plug for fibreglass mould|
couple of golden rules with fibre glass - Get the mix right; i.e. hardener to resin - making sure you have the correct temperature (not too hot - not too cold ) and don't mix batches that are too large. In other words the size batch which you cannot use up within 30 minutes.
With regard to materials from which to make moulds - as has been stated previously; there are 100s of items which can be used. Make sure though that whatever you use doesn't react to the resin. You may even use cling film as a releasing agent; the other thing is watch out for undercuts in your moulding for when you release the moulding from the plug. A lot of folk don't foresee this and they don't realise why the moulding doesn't release properly and they end up breaking it. So you are making a symmetrically based hull? Could this be the Russian circular ship from the 1800s? Have to go and do some Google.
Edited By bluebird on 12/07/2017 17:06:40
|Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs|
One model that hasn't had much mention of Vic Smeed's is the Pathfinder, the pilot vessel - I thought there would be a lot more pictures of it. It seems to have been a popular model. I know there are one or two in our Club, and I myself have the plans. Its on my build list. The only thing I need to sort out before building it, is the actual underwater shape of the vessel at the stern. I know Vic simplified the hull shape on a lot of his drawings for ease of building - and I wonder if he simplified the Pathfinder Hull? I have done a bit of investigation and I have found that there are one or two other vessels with a similar shape of hull to which Vic has drawn. I would like to know if Vic actually had access to the shipyard drawings of this boat. Or, if anyone has photographs of the Pathfinder in dry dock showing her stern and props set up.
As you requested, here are a couple of pics of Vic Smeed’s Custom Launch that I build from the free plans. I made several alterations to mind, where in the plan, the wheelhouse door is on the front. I moved it to the side. Also, I extended the rudder to give it a bit more manoeuvrability. I used the model a few times in Scale Regatta Competitions and on a normal sized rudder it was a bit slow to turn. That was my excuse for poor ability to steer.
Edited By bluebird on 27/06/2017 17:05:04
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