Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vosper rttl|
you are building a classic here and by the look of it you are building straight from the plans - I built a variation of this model many moons ago - using Vic Smeed's plan as a basis, which I made some subtle changes to the chine line. The other way I went - I double planked it - obechi on the inside and mahogany on the outside. I ran it on 2 x 600 Mtroniks - the power comes from 2 x 7.2s 4000 mAmps NiCad batteries. There used to be a full write up of the build but when Mayhem crashed 95% of the build of my model was lost. What I have done is assemble what I have left of photographs of the build and put them in an Album under the RTTL.
Edited By John W E on 19/12/2019 14:15:44
|Thread: Vic Smeed's HMS Cossack MM500|
Hi ya Ray and fellow Cossackers this scan which I have put on here may help you make a simplified 4 inch gun - although it's only single barrel - it could be simply adapted for the twin barrelled version - the article comes from Model Boats magazine January 1983 - I believe (by reading part of the article) that in February 1983, there was a follow up article - which covered the double barrelled version of the gun. Until I find that issue (if I have it) I am a bit unsure - someone though may have the February issue of the magazine and be able to confirm it.
Whilst search for the article, I came across several articles in Model Boats magazines (Feb 1970) a guy has built a 1:72 HMS Cossack from the same set of plans - overall length 63 inches.
So I will carry on searching and see if I can find more information in my back issues of Model Boats mags.
I have a couple of jobs to do; on my latest model = change the motors over; running a tad too hot and finish the paintwork on this model and on the other model I have to finish off the diving bell and the electrics - I will then be joining the Cossack build tribe
Hi Ray will this help you out ?
it is from the Norman Ough book
hi there - feel a bit of a traitor to the Cossack cause - as it was going to be my next build. However, on Sunday someone waved a red flag to a bull - cos he had a ready to run brushless speed boat saying that it was the fastest thing on this lake well that answered my question - what to do next - so I promise I will finish this build and then look at the Cossack build - watching this every day so Ray keep the photographs coming of the build.
Just as a side note did you ever consider Vic Smeed's castle corvette that was a free build in the magazine a good few year ago.
Hi have a look at this build blog it may help you out
Edited By Colin Bishop on 20/07/2019 18:44:00
As stated above, let us know the kit you are building - but - the way I plank my decks (whether it be wrong or right) I begin at the centre of the deck longitudinally from bow to stern - drawn a centre line - and lay your first centre plank there - normally called the king plank and this one is slightly wider than the rest of the planks. Then, I glue in the edging planks right around the edge of the decks and I do these in sections I bend them by heating the planks in boiling water & steam BE WARNED THIS CAN SERIOUSLY HURT. Use tweezers or some form of grips to remove the planks from the boiling water/steam and clamp them to a thick piece of plywood/wood with the radius of the plank drawn on. Leave it until the plank cools down.
When I have all the outside planks in on the model - and glued in place - and I am happy - I begin from the centre (king plank) one plank either side. Any deviation of the plank thicknesses can be made up by either slightly thinner/thicker planks width wise. Also, to assimilate the corking between the planks, I tend to use a biro (black ink) do not use a felt tip pin as this tend to run into the grain of the plank and stain it.
I then use a Stanley knife blade to level all the planks off when they have dried and then a light sand with some very fine sand paper. Then I stain with either coffee or old tea bags to the colour I require. Seal the deck with satin varnish (several coatings). There are several photographs in the album of mine entitled Hull.
|Thread: Vic Smeed's HMS Cossack MM500|
One way to find out if they are tungsten as in tungsten carbide is to take try filing one of the blocks and if it takes the teeth off the file, you know its tungsten, but, don't drop it on your foot - John
|Thread: Clyde Paddler|
Hi there Tony
That link to the film you have put on is extremely enjoyable with some brilliant shots of paddle steamers. Did you notice one or two things the health and safety in those days was non-existent obviously when you watch the first paddle steamer coming alongside - the gap in the bulwark with no safety chains or anything - and people could have just have walked off the side of the ship - I presume that it was left open during docking hopefully but, further on, I note there were passengers actually standing on the paddle boxes - I don't think that would happen today
I was led to believe a while ago that the only paddle driven ships allowed to have independent paddle drive were tugs - the very first shot of the Greyhound, when you watch her come into dock - note that the port paddle is working and the starboard paddle has stopped. Whether the paddle was going to go into reverse you cant tell in the film, so, I think I will do a bit more research about paddle drives.
I built the Forceful tug a while ago and I used MFA como drill toothbelts and pulleys for the drive at roughly 50-1,
Also 2 x Johnson 550 fan cooled motors (the thirsty ones) to drive it. As has been mentioned on 6 volt, it looked the correct scale speed for the tug, but, it had no pulling power whatsoever - therefore in great wisdom I increased the voltage to 12 volts in the model - this time I turned the tug into a 'kenwood chef' food mixer - the paddles looked spectacular thrashing the water about . But, didn't seem to improve the performance all that much - so- I tried putting NiCads in 7.2 and as it turns out 2 x 7.2 4300 Ni-MH batteries is equivalent (or thereabouts) to 6 volt 7 amp batteries of the Gel Cel type. So I loaded the model with 4 Ni-MH batteries to keep the weight right and it improved the performance greatly.
|Thread: Vic Smeed's HMS Cossack MM500|
when I built HMS Daring (World War 2 one) I seem to recall two NiCads of 7.2 volt - either side of the keel - amidships and a tiny bit lead in the bow seemed to be sufficient to ballast this model. This model was built at 1:72 scale, plank on frame from the Norman Ough plans - and it was a bit 'tender' on turning. No doubt if I had added a bit more lead, it may have cured its wobbliness (shall we say ) I never bothered - which reminds me as well - I am sure Norman Ough did a set of drawings for the same class as the Cossack - will do a bit of investigating
Ray, you are saying each balsa wood plank would need to be 5/8 thick - in that case - hows about sticking to the two 1/2 inch thick balsa wood sheets for the bottom? cutting the middle out and then sticking on the bottom one 1/4 inch thick either plywood or balsa wood - that should give you the correct thickness of planking. The other thing to take into consideration - if we read back and look what they suggest you power the model with - they are talking about an old Taycol motor or something and no doubt it will be the old fashioned cycle lamp battery (the 2 joined together which Everyready used to manufacture) - so, with todays modern technology either the motor/s are going to be a lot lighter and also you can replace the batteries with NiCads which can be low down in the hull.
The other thing is are you going to go twin motors or stick to the plan and build a gearbox or use pulleys to drive the 2 props with one motor.
Edited By John W E on 09/07/2019 17:08:21
Edited By John W E on 09/07/2019 17:09:13
Edited By John W E on 09/07/2019 17:10:18
been watching this with great interest as I have the plans for HMS Cossack by Vic Smeed - however, sadly though I fell foul of an auction site sale - when I received the plans (which were supposed to be original) they were a copy from the Magazine. Rather thick lines and the hull is 1/4 inch shorter than it should be. Hey ho or ho hey whatever, but - I must confess I am torn between HMS Lagos by Glynn Guest - as well as the Cossack - so that is why I will be hanging back a bit to see which way I fall on the fence and decide.
The other thing is with Vic Smeed's drawing - Vic increased the draught by half an inch on HMS Cossack to make the stability better. So how will this look if you increase the model scale to 1:96 for the model of HMS Cossack.
|Thread: Motor servo battery pack control|
hi ya there, are you building HMS Hood from the old nexus plans - now Taplett - that's about 52 - 53 inches long. If I remember rightly, she is built bread and butter construction. If you are, is there no suggestion as to what size motors you should use? What also has to be taken into account are the materials you are building with, if you are building bread and butter.
I have built several 4 shaft models, but, slightly larger than what you are contemplating - I built HMS Exeter and HMS Ajax - both are 4 shafts. They are 72 inches long and have 4 x 500 motors in them. One has a mixer combined speed controller in it, where the other one I opted for what is called tank steering - this is where one stick controls 2 motors on the port side and the opposite stick controls the other 2 motors on the starboard side.
This can give quite spectacular turning abilities - what you must also bear in mind is you will need to play around with which way the props turn. If I remember rightly, the Ajax turns better with the props turning inboard (in other words as you are looking from the stern of the model - the props turn anti-clockwise - throwing a wash onto the rudder.
Just some food for thought.
Edited By John W E on 16/04/2019 18:55:40
Edited By John W E on 16/04/2019 18:49:24
|Thread: Damm Paddle Wheels.|
hi there, 0.5mm brass sheet, 400mm square, 4 off from Ebay - a pack of jewellers fret saw blades and an old fret saw if you haven't got a jewellers saw. A plan from Traplet Plans photocopied and glued on; then chain drill into the spaces to be cut out with a 1mm high speed drill bit and a Dremel drill; then followed by filing with a small set of files and Bob's your uncle - easy peasy; lemon squeezy as they say - it just takes a bit of patience and time
|Thread: Temporary ESC fail|
Could it be that the prop is too big? and the motor is drawing too many amps with this big prop on and causing the speed controller to overload and shut down? Sounds as though you may have a Chinese speed controller with that size amperage? Never trust a speed controller ratings from the East - We know all about them and the magic smoke - If there wasn't enough guts in the batteries it would just slow down and then shut off. Just a thought.
Edited By John W E on 17/03/2019 18:24:00
|Thread: Two motors and one ESC|
Hi jim when you tested your motors; were they in the model and connected to the prop shaft ? if so, try disconnecting the motors and try them free running - it may be that one of you prop shafts is a bit tight and that is what is tripping the speed controller out ,
hi there, reading on Mtroniks website
"Running at 12V, at maximum efficiency, the M500 will run at around 24000RPM and pull around 4Amps. Start up current, depending on prop size, would be around 15Amps".
So, therefore, although you have both motors fused, the total load on the actual speed controller on start up is over the limit of the speed controller and the speed controller may think it has been overloaded and shut down - so that is why you may not have two motors to run off one speed controller, so that is one possibility. The other thing is when a normal motor starts up, even not on load, it can take horrendous amperage just to get it started momentarily.
Edited By John W E on 24/02/2019 12:12:25
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor