Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
I also built this model many moons ago. My version was I.C. powered by an Enya 19 glow. The problem with the Surfury model is that it was basically designed to go 'fast' in a straight line. It doesn't like cornering very well and anything below plaining speed - it is like a 'waddling duck' to say the least. I have plans to rebuild it some time in the future along with many other projects - but - I was thinking I may go for the brushless motors this time. What size, I am not sure yet. Also, I was going to go Lipo technology batteries - and this may be all new to yourself - but - if not - I would suggest this is the way you go for this type of hull.
If you are dead certain sticking with the original motor that you have - I would be inclined to go for NiCad technology 9.6 volt and something like 5000 mAh doubled up - giving you 10 amp for longer running time. Have a look on Component shops website under ACtion they can give you a good idea of what you require for speed controllers etc.
|Thread: BRUTUS MK 11|
if Bob wanted too and used the propulsion similar to nozzles - I suppose he could use the same propulsion system as was used on the Virgin Atlantic boat. Horseshoe shaped rudders - which are wrapped around the props - and give you the best of both worlds.
|Thread: Question for anyone who's built Vic Smeeds Guardsman|
Somewhere on this forum - someone has already made Vic Smeed's Guardsman and the build is somewhere on this Forum. As far as I recall her built it as per plan = bread and butter balsa wood hull construction and so forth. I think that gentleman kept the prop shaft at an angle We will have to try and locate the thread and find that out.
Many moons ago I myself built the Guardsman - but - I built it plank on frame and I do know I had the prop shaft parallel to the keel. To be honest to you, I don't think its made any difference, as long as you keep the propshaft well lubricated so the water doesn't seep through the prop tube into the hull.
What method you use for sealing the prop shaft is up to yourself. It can cause a lengthy discussion that one can - nearly as bad as where do you fit a fuse.
Going back to my build though, I also altered the location of the door on the bridge. On the plan, the door is on the front of the bridge and I put the doors either side of the bridge.
Couple of pics of mine.
|Thread: HMS PORCHESTER CASTLE|
The Aliphatic glue that I am using comes from a Company called M.D. Products and I have been trying to find a link for it - but - the only place I can find this product at the moment is on Ebay - I have the Deluxe version of this, which I will be using very shortly. The original bottle has about ran out after me using it for about 5 years - so not bad.
In the past I have used EvoStik brand of PVA when planking models but it isn't truly 100% waterproof but as long as it was covered well (I used to coat over the top with fibre glass resin to seal them). I have never had a hull fall apart yet (touch wood) when using EvoStik.
Sometimes when I am building superstructures etc I will use the cheaper Wilko PVA glue; I tend to only use superglue for gluing either metal or when I assimulate plating on a hull using plasticard. When I plank any hull longitudinal - I either use dressmakers pins/ brass pins to hold the planks in place. Brass pins are normally permanent but obviously dressmaker pins you take out when the glue is dry.
Depending on the planking a quick wipe with a wet cloth will close up the holes in the timber after dressmakers pins have been removed.
I did invest in a load of these fancy 'T building pins' for holding planks in place, but, I found anything harder than balsa wood they tended to bend so they stay in the drawer in readiness for building another balsa wood model.
I will carry on planking now my friends. John
Edited By John W E on 29/06/2020 09:24:47
I forgot to mention in my previous posting - the planking material is Obechi - 9 mm x 1 mm . The overall length of the model will be 63 inches (approx.) Roughly 9 inches beam.
The glue I am using is Aliphatic wood glue. I prefer this to trying to use superglue as with the Aliphatic glue it gives a bit of 'wiggle' time to put the plank in the correct position. You don't end up with your fingers glues to the planks.
The other thing is I plank - 10 planks either side at a time - and the way I do it - I plank 5 planks forward and 5 planks back over from the pre-laid planks. This I believe reduced the stress build up because as the glue dries and the planks dry out - they tend of shrink and tend to pull the framework. (That's my excuse anyway)
This is the beginning of a build which has been on the back burners of 'to do' for a long time. Its about time I did it - the Model is 1:48 scale and the plans I am using are from Norman Ough with the aid of several online articles plus a book Castle Class Corvettes composed by Norman Goodwin and edited by Steve Bush - ISBN No, 9781904459279.
The frames have been cut from 5 mm Birch plywood.
The keel is also made from 5 mm plywood - Birch again.
She has roughly 6 stringers per side - this aides for the diagonal planking. For those who haven't double diagonally planked - a round-bilged hull - the main thing to remember is the more stringers you have, the easier it is to hold the planks and to create the correct radius shape on the build. The other thing is - don't make the planks too wide - as if you make them too wide, as you bend the planks around they tend to try and lift away from the hull.
If you look at the pic, I have indicated where the plank is trying to twist away from the hull.
So, this the build so far…..
Edited By John W E on 28/06/2020 11:23:29
|Thread: Vic Smeed's HMS Cossack MM500|
Hi ya, can anyone tell me why when I typed out my message - then come to add a photograph and then posted it. The wording had gone and all that was there was the photograph,. Hey ho.
Hi Ray, this is my excuse, I started off with a Model Maker magazine with the article in it for HMS Cossack - plus the plans on the desk - and alongside I had a Model Boats magazine with the build articles and plan for Vic Smeed's HMS Harlech Castle as well. I was debating which one to go for.
I took Norman Ough's book out to see what extra detail would have to be put in - or - how close it was to the exact vessel. This led to me obtaining a set of drawings for HMS Hedingham Castle - which in turn led to information being obtained for HMS Porchester Castle. Porchester Castle was the one Castle Class vessel used for the film the Cruel Sea - she was also built on the River Tyne - not even a stone throw from where I live. So, the magic pencils came out to draw the frames for Porchester Castle on a piece of plywood at 1:48 scale, just to give an idea of what it would look like. Consequently, now, there is mysteriously a 6 ft building board with frames set up on the work bench here - and I am in the process of diagonally planking it. This is a long way from building HMS Cossack from balsa wood - but she is still on my build list - so - we will just need to reschedule the builders for further employment at a later date .
Edited By John W E on 26/06/2020 19:20:54
Edited By John W E on 26/06/2020 19:21:35
|Thread: Fairmile D - help needed|
Hi ya there, just out of curiosity is your hull fibreglass - Is it one of Kingston Mouldings' ?
Brass props that are to scale will be efficient, especially if they come somewhere like Propshop or somewhere.
Keep us all uptodate
If you try to make this hull plane across the water, you are going to have to ditch the lead battery, unless the hull and internals are extremely light weight. Many years ago I built an RAF rescue launch - pre-internet days - and it was powered by 2 x 6 volt 4 amp batteries and the hull was the same weight as a 5ft span glider (very light) and it only stayed on the water for a matter of 4 or 5 mins and eventually one of the battery casings split, spitting its internals into the hull as the batteries were that hot you could fry eggs on them.
Hi there, I will introduce myself, my name is John and I will be extremely glad to get the magazine back. Its a big miss, my dinner time read! Never mind receiving 13 issues, I will be glad to get the rest of the year's issues and just hope that everyone is safe. So howway stop the whining man.
Edited By John W E on 17/06/2020 09:05:25
|Thread: Fairmile D - help needed|
can you tell us how many speed controllers you are going to use and are you going to use scale props? Scale props will need to be near enough 40mm diameter with 3 blades.
If you are driving a 600 motor on 7.2 volts from a NiCad or a Lipo - you will be drawing a fair few amps - and if you are using 2 motors per speed controller you will be very close (if not over the top) of the 25 amp limit to these speed controllers and no matter how much lap top power/programme power you have IT WILL STILL FRY THE SPEED controllers - I KNOW as I have a few tee shirts
I would suggest that you go with independent drives - port and starboard for this style of model - as you will find using scale propellers and rudders, this model will turn quite easily and manoeuvre.
When I built HMS Exeter, I incorporated a P94, which I split between port and starboard. HMS Exeter has 4 motors and they were Speed 600 driving 30 mm props - it was overscale speed though with these motors - but, the speed controller handled it quite easily. I dropped the motors down to 500s to give a more realistic speed.
As for access into the hull on the dog boat, I had a similar problem when I built the Fairmile B Class. What I managed to do there was under the area of aft gun - underneath the gun bandstand - is an area which can be opened up in the deck to allow access to the rudder linkage and also propeller shaft couplings. I found that the bridge area, which was the main access, is quite adequate to give you good access inside the hull - because of the hull you are building. Here are a couple of photos - and there are more photos in my albums of both hulls.
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:29:00
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:24:49
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:26:42
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:27:16
|Thread: John Cobb's Crusader|
I have tried Ray's suggesting using Tamiya tape to mask circles and radius' off - and - it is okay if you have a radius to follow but its difficult to freehand a radius (for me anyway ) so what I did on my last model was, I purchased 2 inch wide - cheap masking tape from the 'cheap shop' - and masked the whole area off to be done and as you have already thought of, draw round with a pencil using a template and then with a scalpel following where you have marked and remove the unwanted area - you can then paint to your heart's content. I will be honest with you though there was a bit of 'bleed' through on the tape when I did this. I would try the cheap masking tape on an unseen area where you have painted (underneath the hull maybe) just to check it doesn't pull the paint off. I do have that medal as well.
Really, I am saying very little and I am watching your build, with these air duct fans you are going to use. A while ago, I happened to purchase from a guy who was emigrating to Canada, all of his aircraft stuff. Amongst it was a ducted fan, it has a brushless motor attached and speed controller. I do still fancy building a Bluebird from balsa wood and fitting the ducted fan as you have done - but - I am unsure about the power of this ducted fan as I have heard that they may not actually produce much thrust for a model boat (too much water drag on the hull) so, what I was going to do - until you came along with your build - was build a Catamaran hull from balsa and stick the fan on the top - just to see how it would perform or, build a Go-cart from Meccano for land based trials but this will be on hold until I see your models perform.
so here's hoping - HAPPY MODELLING
|Thread: Not quite a Darwin Award nominee but a good try.|
hi there, many moons ago I helped out or hindered on a stall at a Model Show and after the show I was approached by a Club member asking if I had any units to sell from home at half price after the show - I had a hell of job explaining to him I had no connection/work for a certain ACTion Company - I was only helping out and if he required it, he would have to send off for them. He said yes but I would have to pay full price - couldn't get it through to him that I didn't work for ACTion - some people!!!! you cant explain the simple basics to them.
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