Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fairmile D - help needed|
Hi ya there, just out of curiosity is your hull fibreglass - Is it one of Kingston Mouldings' ?
Brass props that are to scale will be efficient, especially if they come somewhere like Propshop or somewhere.
Keep us all uptodate
If you try to make this hull plane across the water, you are going to have to ditch the lead battery, unless the hull and internals are extremely light weight. Many years ago I built an RAF rescue launch - pre-internet days - and it was powered by 2 x 6 volt 4 amp batteries and the hull was the same weight as a 5ft span glider (very light) and it only stayed on the water for a matter of 4 or 5 mins and eventually one of the battery casings split, spitting its internals into the hull as the batteries were that hot you could fry eggs on them.
Hi there, I will introduce myself, my name is John and I will be extremely glad to get the magazine back. Its a big miss, my dinner time read! Never mind receiving 13 issues, I will be glad to get the rest of the year's issues and just hope that everyone is safe. So howway stop the whining man.
Edited By John W E on 17/06/2020 09:05:25
|Thread: Fairmile D - help needed|
can you tell us how many speed controllers you are going to use and are you going to use scale props? Scale props will need to be near enough 40mm diameter with 3 blades.
If you are driving a 600 motor on 7.2 volts from a NiCad or a Lipo - you will be drawing a fair few amps - and if you are using 2 motors per speed controller you will be very close (if not over the top) of the 25 amp limit to these speed controllers and no matter how much lap top power/programme power you have IT WILL STILL FRY THE SPEED controllers - I KNOW as I have a few tee shirts
I would suggest that you go with independent drives - port and starboard for this style of model - as you will find using scale propellers and rudders, this model will turn quite easily and manoeuvre.
When I built HMS Exeter, I incorporated a P94, which I split between port and starboard. HMS Exeter has 4 motors and they were Speed 600 driving 30 mm props - it was overscale speed though with these motors - but, the speed controller handled it quite easily. I dropped the motors down to 500s to give a more realistic speed.
As for access into the hull on the dog boat, I had a similar problem when I built the Fairmile B Class. What I managed to do there was under the area of aft gun - underneath the gun bandstand - is an area which can be opened up in the deck to allow access to the rudder linkage and also propeller shaft couplings. I found that the bridge area, which was the main access, is quite adequate to give you good access inside the hull - because of the hull you are building. Here are a couple of photos - and there are more photos in my albums of both hulls.
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:29:00
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:24:49
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:26:42
Edited By John W E on 16/06/2020 16:27:16
|Thread: John Cobb's Crusader|
I have tried Ray's suggesting using Tamiya tape to mask circles and radius' off - and - it is okay if you have a radius to follow but its difficult to freehand a radius (for me anyway ) so what I did on my last model was, I purchased 2 inch wide - cheap masking tape from the 'cheap shop' - and masked the whole area off to be done and as you have already thought of, draw round with a pencil using a template and then with a scalpel following where you have marked and remove the unwanted area - you can then paint to your heart's content. I will be honest with you though there was a bit of 'bleed' through on the tape when I did this. I would try the cheap masking tape on an unseen area where you have painted (underneath the hull maybe) just to check it doesn't pull the paint off. I do have that medal as well.
Really, I am saying very little and I am watching your build, with these air duct fans you are going to use. A while ago, I happened to purchase from a guy who was emigrating to Canada, all of his aircraft stuff. Amongst it was a ducted fan, it has a brushless motor attached and speed controller. I do still fancy building a Bluebird from balsa wood and fitting the ducted fan as you have done - but - I am unsure about the power of this ducted fan as I have heard that they may not actually produce much thrust for a model boat (too much water drag on the hull) so, what I was going to do - until you came along with your build - was build a Catamaran hull from balsa and stick the fan on the top - just to see how it would perform or, build a Go-cart from Meccano for land based trials but this will be on hold until I see your models perform.
so here's hoping - HAPPY MODELLING
|Thread: Not quite a Darwin Award nominee but a good try.|
hi there, many moons ago I helped out or hindered on a stall at a Model Show and after the show I was approached by a Club member asking if I had any units to sell from home at half price after the show - I had a hell of job explaining to him I had no connection/work for a certain ACTion Company - I was only helping out and if he required it, he would have to send off for them. He said yes but I would have to pay full price - couldn't get it through to him that I didn't work for ACTion - some people!!!! you cant explain the simple basics to them.
|Thread: RAF Air Sea Rescue Type-3 Hants & Dorset HSL|
I think I have made a pigs ear of me postings above - but - anyway - what I wanted to mention as well is a guy he is called Christian Shepherd - and he runs a Company called MTB Hulls - he is a real gent - and he is the 'knowledge' of all Coastal Craft - and if anyone can help you - he will. Christian will be able to furnish you with photographs that we have never seen.
hi there, sorry for the delay in answering - but - I have just been doing a bit of research on the launch. I take it that the plan that your father worked from is the one in the image that I am going to put on which I have scanned from Model Boats magazine, February 1984. I am unsure if you have this issue from your dad to go along with the plans, but, if not there are several places that you will be able to obtain the issue of the Model Boats Magazine on the web. As far as fittings go; and manufacturing of the fittings yourself and detailed plans - I am sorry to say there is very little information around. But, depending on which version your father had been building - because - I note that there is one version that has a dinghy on the back and also no gun turrets on the bridge - then there is the lower version which seems to have an Oerlikon gun on the rear end plus the Perspex turrets on the bridge which normally have twin guns in them.
I know there are a lot of people who try to manufacture these Perspex domes out of old light bulbs - some of them are pretty successful - but the last pair I actually made I moulded them using the oven in the kitchen and a mould - if you go onto Mayhem and look on Masterclass for the RAF launch build there - you will see how this is done.
If you wish to purchase fittings - I know there is a Company called Battlecraft - who do a lot of fittings for this type of craft - and at the right scale.
Let's know how you get on.
Edited By John W E on 01/05/2020 10:51:04
|Thread: Bow Thruster advice please.|
as above try the above link - to You Tube - give it a go - you will notice it sounds like a Kenwood Chef - this is due to the fact I originally ran the model on 6 volt main drive batteries and it was a bit slow. So, I upped it to 12 volt running to which it looks likes a mixer frothing the water so now went from Gel Cells to 7.2 NiCad packs which runs about right. If you have the sound on forgive our Geordie Accents in the beginning because I was tormenting a dog on the lakeside with a water cannon on the model.
give this a go
Edited By John W E on 30/04/2020 10:42:17https://youtu.be/nL8nZohRMTA
Edited By John W E on 30/04/2020 11:09:42
with regard to adding a bow and stern thruster to help the model to turn whilst under way - is not very successful - as has already been stated. Unless, you have the bow thrusters connected in with variable independent propeller control. On the other hand, independent paddle wheels give you a greater manoeuvre-ability when under way - when stationary you can literally spin the vessel on the spot by putting one paddle wheel forward and one reverse. You don't need a mixer in your model, independent stick control on your transmitter will do the job.What hasnt been mentioned is
that a lot of paddle steamers have what is known as a bow rudder to help them turn; I would suggest you try independent paddles first off. Also slightly increase the weight of your model so that it sits deeper in the water. You will find that some 'paddlers tend to dig in' i.e. tend to lean as the paddle pulls the water back. To counteract this, if you fancy going to the expense of making 'feathering' paddles - anyway - if I can find out to put a video on here without going through the bother of YouTube - I do have one of the Forceful, which I built - going through its paces .
Edited By John W E on 29/04/2020 18:57:46
Edited By John W E on 29/04/2020 18:59:21
|Thread: m15 monitor|
Also, if you go onto YouTube - there is plenty of videos - which show you how to convert a standard servo to either continuous rotation or, 180 degree movement.
I used a similar servo from EBAY myself for a crane on one of my models. I used a continuous revolving servo, but, used a gear ratio of something like 5 to 1 to give a smooth rotation of the crane. Just food for thought.
Edited By John W E on 27/04/2020 10:08:13
|Thread: Dual Rudders|
Heres a pic of the RAF Air Sea Rescue Launch (63 ft one triple rudder) this gives equal amounts of movements on the rudders and is a fairly robus setup. If I remember rightly on this particular model the 2 outer props rotated inboard towards each other as looking from the stern. The centre prop turned anti clockwise if I remember rightly. If you want to be pedantic some of the real Coastal Forces Vessels (PT boats) have all their props turning the same direction due to the fact that they were unable to obtain or manufacture in time, the reverse gear boxes.
|Thread: VINTAGE BUILDS|
Hi there, here are a couple of photographs of my latest project called BUOY CAT which was designed by F Body in the 1960s. Basically, its a CAT hull with an IC engine in it . I have tried to keep as close as possible to the original design, couple of variations in the build is I increased the length of the spray rails either side of the hull, originally they were only half way along. I added an upper rubbing strip around the deck area and also on the back deck I opened up an area with a grille in it to allow ventilation. The only thing now to do is to give it a trial run in the paddling pool - to make sure nothing falls off. I have glazed the cabin windows but I do have a funny feeling they will either melt - or - I will knock them out to create ventilation. For those wondering why I didn't go brushless with this design is that I wanted to keep it as authentic as possible as this is one part of our hobby I enjoy - i.e. tinkering with IC engines - come to think of it I have many a battle scar on me fingers from the old boot lace starting. But, now softy here has a starter motor and electric one that is.
|Thread: Mk7 Bofors 40mm AA Machine Gun|
Good morning Master Milbourn - whilst occupied yesterday afternoon with other things such as stacking up the z's the penny slowly dropped into the empty spaces in one's head. I should have this drawing somewhere - as I used it for the gun on HMS Leeds Castle and a similar one on the Orkney - both models are with other owners now. Anyway, I began going through all plans trying to locate them and then the 2nd light bulb lit up - I believe our mutual friend Mr Marc Rigden may have all the drawings for Leeds Castle and the subsidiary drawings, guns and bits and pieces as Marc obtained a 1:72 scale for the Leeds Castle. So, maybe, if you email or ring Marc he might just have a photocopy he can send you.
Edited By John W E on 17/03/2020 10:28:00
Edited By Colin Bishop on 17/03/2020 10:57:45
Hi this is a scan from the book ,as I know Dave is too tight to buy the mag
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