Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: books fosale|
Hi ya there Larry
It really saddens me to read your postings and I know you have been informed by the Doctors that you must resist doing modelling and a lot of other activities. I am in a similar situation myself - having spent some time with the NHS a week ago and whilst in there the Doctors asked me what hobbies I had and what sort of glues I used and this that and the other. They said a similar thing to me, about refraining from using certain glues, paints etc. But, when I answered the Dr I said to him - there is no way I could sit and become a vegetable - I have never been the sort of person to sit and watch television all day long and even if I can just sit at me workbench, table and glue a plastic kit together as long as my mind and hands are occupied - it will do me more good than anything. The specialist agreed with me - so I have never refrained from doing my modelling and what I would say to you Larry is, hang on to some stuff, especially your modelling books and things like that. Because, you do have to keep your mind active, you dont know what is round the corner - one day you may feel that bit better and capable of doing some modelling.
|Thread: not feeling too good|
Hi ya Larry, good to see you back and up and running, you know them MTRONIKS pacemakers arent very good you will have to ask for an ACTION P84 next time Lot easier to fix, keep smiling and doing your modelling.
All the Best
|Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs|
Sorry for the delay in replying, I just noticed your message. I built the Cervia Tug from Vic Smeed's plans a few years ago using the plank on frame method. I will post some photographs shortly.
I also built the RTTL from Vic Smeed's plans which and I will put some pictures of that on as well.
Edited By bluebird on 20/01/2014 11:32:20
Edited By bluebird on 20/01/2014 11:51:06
Hi ya, after seeing Colin's posting of the front cover article - it reminded me - I have this article. Its only a 2 page article with a few photographs - but if you want me to email you with it, please pm me with your email address and I will scan it and send it through to you.
Edited By bluebird on 27/12/2013 10:52:10
Hi ya Howard I built the Surfurey a good few years ago - sadly though I dont have any of my build photographs. She was built from My Hobbystore plans along with information gained from the web - on my build I omitted one or two things such as handrails as she is IC powered. She has an Enya engine. Seriously now thinking of converting her to brushless, electric. Also, I made modifications to the rudder design. The hull build itself was doubled diagnally planked, which is recommended for this type of build cos when you look at the frames, she is more of a rounded hull than a flat V hull. It's the actual spray rails which achieve the flatness of the V affect. I used 4mm birch ply for the frames and keel; along with 3/16 square birch stringers and I think there are about 5 at each side of the keel. The internal planking was 8mm by 1.5mm obechi and the external planking was 0.5mm thick by 5mm wide mahogany planks glued in the opposite direction to the first layer of planking. The deck was made from 1/8 liteply along with the rest of the superstructure which was constructed from balsa wood to keep the hull and everything as light as possible.
The only drawback with these hulls is that they dont like cornering, they are perfect in a straight line and in rough weather but when you turn a tight corner the boat comes off the plain and waddles around a bit. This is an inherent problem with this type of hull and no matter what trim tabs you put on or rudder configuration, you cant do much to improve it. Having said that though I have had several hours of good fun from this model.
Edited By bluebird on 27/12/2013 10:27:45
|Thread: Guardsman by Vic Smeed|
Hi ya tony
The coal skuttles are made from very thin brass shim sheet about 15 thou thick. The brass shim sheet was first of all placed on top of a piece of thick plywood and then a suitable diameter steel tube was found roughly 1/2 inch in diameter. One end of the tube was placed on top of the shim and the other end you hit with a hammer to form an impression of a ring in the brass shim. The word coal was then scribed on in the centre of the ring impression and then the coal skuttle was then cut out from the brass shim and superglued to the deck with several coats of clear varnish to keep the brass looking bright.
You can buy brass shim from EBay.
Edited By bluebird on 26/12/2013 10:31:32
|Thread: Building from plans|
my posting above, went on twice - I blame my computer
Edited By bluebird on 07/12/2013 14:54:28
Hi ya Simon J
Like all things relating to modelling there is no RIGHT WAY and no WRONG WAY just the way that suits you and which is easiest to you and from which you get the best results. As has been mentioned in previous posts, you will see there are a few ways of transferring hull lines from a plan to the materials. To be honest, I have tried most of them with varying success/s. I tend to fall back on the 'old' tracing paper myself. I find this method most economical and a less expensive way of transferring the lines and as long as care is taken the mistakes should be minimal (if any). If you go down the route of photocopying the frames, cutting them out and sticking them to the materials - remember on the majority of plans there is only the portside frames usually drawn to the half way mark of the model - from the stern up to the middle on the starboard side or vice versa - depending on the draftsman of the plans. Therefore when you photocopy the frames; you have to photocopy them twice - one for portside of the frame and the other for the starboard side.
Now if you trace them - as long as you draw a centre line down the middle of your frame - the only thing you have to do is flip the tracing paper over, line it up with your previously drawn frame and draw the rest of the frame in - or, when you come to doing to transferring it onto the building material - flip the tracing paper over then - so you draw a complete frame using one piece of tracing paper.
NOTE that this is only on a certain plans which only have half frames drawn - some plans have the full frames drawn - to which the photocopying lends itself best to. If you do a websearch and go onto Mayhem - on there there are several topics in the masterclass build section - where the tracing of frames and the transferring to building materials is explained in greater detail. If you look on either the Cervia build/Spashett build or Fairy Swordsman builds.
|Thread: Virgin Atlantic Challenger II plans|
well I think you have reached perfection now and I dont think you are going to get the boat to perform any better. To answer your question about why the boat all of a sudden veers off left to right is because you have reached the limits of the hull's performance and you are riding on your propeller. In other words the boat has come so far out of the water, in theory it is balancing on the propeller - that is the main reason and I am afraid there is very little you can do with that - just enjoy the performance. I certainly have enjoyed watching your videos. Obviously on the last video with the smaller prop you have lost a bit of performance but you will get a longer running time.
hi ya Joseph, that looks about right now. But, Ive just noticed where your water pickup is for your cooling - that might be causing you some trouble as well. Normally, water pickup scoop is placed behind the propeller - I know its a bit awkward on these boats where it would have to be mounted on the back shelf of the transom - lets knowhow you get on to see if it makes any great improvement.
After looking at the photographs that you have put on and comparing it with the plan and my model - I think the angle on your propshaft is a bit shallow - and also a bit close to the transom. This, I am afraid, will cause cavitation and/or bad performance. It is up to you now - as it is a major job removing a propshaft and increasing the angle slightly - but it can be done - however for the extra bit of performance you will gain from it - is it worth it? It is up to your goodself - and how much time you wish to spend on the model.
As I have said before, what we must realise is that this is semi scaled model and we arent going to get any spectacular performance out of it. The trim tabls look about the right size and altering them by decreasing the length wont really increase the performance.
I know when I built my model and sailed it, of the Virgin Atlantic, I too was unhappy with the performance but I have (as I have said) other model plans which are semi scale such as the MTB and the Fairy Swordsman that I have built; and they do outperforme this model. They are the same style of build nice n easy.
Edited By bluebird on 17/11/2013 11:09:07
Edited By bluebird on 17/11/2013 11:10:55
|Thread: Fleetscale Admiral Graf Spee|
really interested in your build, looking really nice. I like the way you have set the internals out.
The Graf Spee holds a special place for me and my family as one of my Uncle's was a Prison of War for a short time aboard her. He was on The Ashleigh which was sunk by the Graf Spee and he spent a short time on there before being transferred to the Altmark.
So it looks like we are going to have the Battle of the River Plate on the forum as I am in the process of building HMS Exeter.
|Thread: Virgin Atlantic Challenger II plans|
hi ya Joseph
Good to hear that the single rudder improves it slightly and yes if you fit the trim tabs it will improve performance a bit more by keeping the nose down. With the boat coming out of the water, its proven that you have sufficient power and that the hull is performing well. Now I think we need to look at the propeller - you are entering the field of surface piercing props and therefore need a coarser pitch on the prop. So, in theory you are actually trying to encourage cavitation to get the best performance.
Honestly I think we on the limits of the hull design now.
Edited By bluebird on 05/11/2013 19:50:04
|Thread: Identification of thread form|
with regard to the thread and my earlier typo where I typed 1/8 instead of 1/16 for bsp, and also having read on several forums the most likelihood is that this particular thread is a 7mm fine thread. If the gent wishes he can try an 8mm tap in the hole, but my thinking is he may destroy it... can anyone read Japanese? The following image is of a drawing of the engine with parts - but its in foreign language to which I am not privvy also working on a lot of Airsoft guns from Japan for my son - I know some of these threads can be way off the standard mark.
hi Derek this may help you **LINK**
going by the measurements you have given, it is a possibility that this could be a 1/8 bsp thread but the best way is, if you have a small engineering firm near where you live, pop in and ask them if they have a 1/8 bsp tap and also a 8 mm fine tap - and you want the plug taps, just to gently try in the hole. I have had a quick look on the web and there are one or two places I will go back and read on the forums and if I find anything about this steam engine I will come back to you about the thread size.
Edited By bluebird on 31/10/2013 19:59:31
|Thread: Virgin Atlantic Challenger II plans|
hi ya there Joseph,
Did you try the model with extra weight in it? If you did, did it make any improvement???
hi ya Joseph
is there any progress with getting the Virgin Atlantic to run correctly? Or, has it been put on hold for the time being?
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