Here is a list of all the postings John W E has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: K D Perkasa - design detail|
Ok, I have made a quick web search as the book which I have has grown legs and disappeared. I only have the 'older' version of the book High-Speed Small Craft by Peter Du Cane and this chap was the chief designer of the Brave Class. The air intakes, if I remember rightly, were just back of the bridge - either side - facing aft. They look like companion ways. This is where the air for the jet engines is drawn from. As has already been explained the exhausts exit through the transom and there are diesel generator exhausts mounted on an inverted V-shaped mast on the aft superstructure. This sometime varied on different vessels.
Couple of pictures here ....
Edited By John W E on 31/07/2021 17:13:12
|Thread: Can anybody clear this up for me|
and....I have just learned that using 'control and V' on my computer works wonders
Edited By John W E on 21/07/2021 16:18:04
Edited By John W E on 21/07/2021 16:18:57
Edited By John W E on 21/07/2021 16:28:31
Hi there, three pics below :- are....
Also,. if one does a hunt ont tinternet you will come across a similar vessel to which Ray has put on. It is of the Titanic Lifeboat / or similar.
So as they say, the choice is yours
Edited By John W E on 21/07/2021 16:17:15
Edited By John W E on 21/07/2021 16:17:39
Edited By John W E on 21/07/2021 16:19:32
Hi there Fred,
As is stated on another Forum, the reason I enlarged the rudder on the Guardsman was that I use this model for steering scale regattas and on a lot of these courses, they have a lot of reverse sections in them, this is where you have to sometimes go astern and touch a buoy/go into a dock etc. As has already been stated on this forum there are not many single screw vessels that like to go astern in a straight line.
Here is a view of the extension that I made for the rudder to help my model go astern.
Edited By John W E on 12/07/2021 18:52:27
Edited By John W E on 12/07/2021 18:54:50
|Thread: RAF rescue launch ASR HSL|
Edited By John W E on 11/05/2021 15:27:41
The method I used to create these gun turrets is fully explained on Mayhem on the build I did on there of the 63ft Whaleback launch - but here are a couple of pics to give you the idea. It was done in an oven to warm the clear plastic up and then I pushed the mould into the soft plastic to create the shape of the gun turret. It took one or two attempts but in my opinion it looks far superior than a lightbulb painted.
Going to put the pictures in my album and then I will put them on here.
Edited By John W E on 11/05/2021 15:28:16
|Thread: Sound Units|
To get back on track - have you thought about using Forge Electronics? I know they mainly do diesel sounds but they do have one that is a combination sound unit and it may just fit the bill .
Hi Richard, funny you should mention 'curtain across the door' doing the Gulf run and we didn't have any air conditioning in the cabin (just in the bar - the most important place) and we were told to batten down all the deadlights and close all external doors and vents as there was a sandstorm coming! I remember being down the engine room and must have lost 3 stone, sweating that much - and remember the salt drinks they used to give us. Must have drank gallons of that stuff - and - when it was all over, walking along the deck and everywhere covered with a fine layer of sand. I wasn't keen on the Gulf runs
Happy days all the same
The funny thing is Richard, is, when you have finished your watch and you are lying your head on your pillow in your bunk, fast asleep - it is amazing how quickly you wake up when the main engines stop for no reason. Your eyes are open even before you hear the alarm bells ring. The other thing is on your first few nights ashore at home you never sleep for the first couple of nights due to the fact of the silence.
Let me sleep tight to the sound of a Doxford.
Edited By John W E on 09/05/2021 15:43:01
|Thread: Prop Tube lubrication & sealing|
At the beginning of this thread, the gentleman who used the lard to seal his propeller shaft - I wonder how old this gentleman be? I wonder if he came from the same school as the gent who was my mentor when I first started modelling? If my mentor were alive today he would be roughly 102 yr old. If you didnt have a steam driven model - it wasn't a model. But, he did have a beautiful book of all these weird and wonderful solutions for problems encountered in modelling.
I will always recall one of his many solutions to mix high temperature grease with old car engine sump oil. This was to be poured into the steam lubricators on steam engines (helps them lubricate when running under steam).
His other tip which I remember was he used to use tallow - the grease from the slipway where the bigger ships were launched. He used to use it for tapping grease - also - he used to use the same stuff as prop tube lubricant.
Also, can you remember the powdered milk tins that baby milk used to come in - none of them were ever thrown out. A few of his models were made from tin plate salvaged from these tins. One of the models was HMS Ark Royal - and yes it was steam driven - good old Mr James Berwick with his book of knowledge.
The other thing is who remembers lard/dripping and salt sandwiches - beef dripping off the Sunday dinner - when I think back to what people ate - its a wonder people survived.
Goodness I miss the old so and so Milbourn - I bet he would have come back with some corking answers.
Edited By John W E on 28/03/2021 16:37:39
|Thread: kms bismark|
When I built HMS Exeter, at 1:96 scale, I used the ACTion P94 speed controllers to control the 4 motors running on 6 volt. I was considering the Arduino system and also went so far as to how to programme and following instructions from the web about gun movements.
However, to me (and this is only my opinion mind) it was far too complicated and a waste of time as I could do exactly the same thing and have movements of the gun using a Futaba 8 channel control system running on 2.4. All I did was invest in 3 x 180 degree servos which are mounted under each gun turret and 3 mini servos which I mounted inside the gun turrets which in turn elevate and depress the barrels. The speed of which was governed by a unit by a Company called Forge. Basically Forge supplied the units which increase the movement of the 180 degrees turrets to roughly about 220 degrees. Also a unit to control the speed & slowed the servos down.
All I have done extra is made a Y lead up, so I connect 2 battery packs at 4.8 volt each up in series; which give me an extra bit of umph for the power supply for the servos and the rest of the electronics e.g. speed controllers & soforth. Just the way I did it, and, to me less complicated - because - I felt as though I was restricted by set movements of the Arduino system.
Edited By John W E on 14/03/2021 18:21:17
Edited By John W E on 14/03/2021 18:23:32
|Thread: Dave Milbourn RIP|
This is the saddest news; Thinking of Liz and his dear family; Dave is going to be such a sad miss.
We had many laughs and shared a lot of modelling stuff. Worked with Dave a good few times at the shows.
Rest in peace my dear friend, I will never forget you.
|Thread: Boat decking|
yes, deck planking in general does run fore and aft on the majority of sailing craft etc., but , like everything else in this world - there are 1 or 2 exceptions. Funnily enough 2 exceptions that spring to mind are The Russian round warship and also I recall seeing a model - I believe it may have been in Newcastle upon Tyne museum of a turret ship which was built in Sunderland and I am sure if my memory serves me right - there was part of the deck planking that went across the ship between the holes in the model. To be 100% certain I will have to look to see if the model is still on display - I need to find some pics of the deck and hatches.
Edited By John W E on 23/07/2020 17:28:03
|Thread: 1/40 scale KD Perkasa|
nice model Dave, well built. I think we need to buy somebody a book on nautical terms try flag locker. Personally, its a very nice model. I am surprised that SLEC has chosen this model to go into production, unless of course its just going to be a limited run. As we all know there are numerous kits out there with this model and I cannot see it making a great impact because it is such a select field. The one thing that has been done is there is a good flag ship model by Dave to promote it and if they have the right photographs on the advertising - it should do a lot to help sell this model. The only thing I can ask is, not having seen the internals, could this be converted into say twin or triple screw - as in the original? without too much butchering of the inside?
From my recollections, the colour green that Dave has is roughly about the right shade after me walking on a good few naval 'green' decks. or, should I say after the paint had been chipped off and you saw the original colour of the decks.
|Thread: HMS PORCHESTER CASTLE|
Hi Ray and Bob
comments much appreciated - up to now the build plan is for the hull to be single planked and then coated with Zpoxy resin - with aircraft grade woven roven - and then that being sanded smooth - to use plasticard to assimilate the hull plating. That is the plan in theory - time will tell. hahah
As a gentleman once said to me - the sides of the road are littered with great plans, which have never been followed through.
we will see
hi ya Ray
just been looking back through some old photographs on Mayhem to look for my original bottle of Aliphatic glue and I could only find one which shows me bottle on the shelf (that is dated 2011) but I have had it a bit longer than that and I built roughly about 8 or 9 model boats since then - so its a pretty good bit of value for money - when you think about it - considering the length of time it has lasted. I cannot think of how much I paid for it at the time and I hope this new bottle I have just opened today lasts me as long. Sadly I have just had the last few drops from the original one, have a look on me shelf at the back of the model and you will see the bottle there.
The planks I am using are Obechi - 9 x 1 mm and I bought them from SLEC hobbies and up to now they have all been pretty straight grained and fairly easy to bend around the hull. Normally, if I have any stubborn planks which don't bend easily - I soak in hot water for 10 - 15 minutes. This makes the planks pretty pliable and non-argumentative about being bent into shape.
The really really stubborn ones, I will stick in boiling water - normally an old kettle. Be careful trying this, as steam burns don't half hurt and make the skin go funny,.
Hi all still planking the plank - just taking me time - I have 52 on one side and 40 on the other - God help us
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