Here is a list of all the postings Brian Porter 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Battery life|
Don’t worry about the welcoming, I (we) have had the best welcome possible - plenty of help & very informative advice from supportive members.
Programmable BECs - woh there, we’ll learn to walk first!!
Battery for the RX - Although I tried it during our first attempt at set up when we innocently wondered blind into the world of interference (what a nightmare & what a learning curve that was!) we now no longer need it. Point of interest though, Carson say not to (14ch RX).
Fuse - Proud to say we’ve included it in our design plans - impressed? No? Ah well.....
Ashley, Ah, got it. I thought it was more complex than that!
Thanks for the info & will also take a look at the article.
Dave & Ashley,
You're going to have to slow down now, remember this thread is in the Beginners section!! Wattmeters I can understand but the BEC cutting in is, as yet, a bit beyond our understanding. I know they're in the two Mtronics ESCs but that's it. If you're able to explain the basics here that would be great. We're slowing advancing up this ladder one run at a time!
Not sure what you both think of this but as a visible warning, our electrics are being designed so the continuous working radar (a microscopic 3v motor) automatically stops, as a visual indicator, when the main 12v batts drop to 10.5v at which point we can shut down everything except motors to bring her home.
Also, in the early days of our marine adventures we'll be experimenting with her use & bring her home often to check the batts so to understand the battery life.
Thanks guys, all advice & criticism welcomed plus any micky taking accepted!!
Interesting, never done that before but will certainly try. Thanks for the advice.
Ok thanks for that. We’ll have two cunningly concealed areas to bring cool air in from the flying bridge so we’ll collect some air from there and push it through. The three large exhaust flaps will be openable so we’ll perhaps use at least one to extract air. The other two may emit smoke but even if they do we can include an air outlets within the approx 25mm or so diameter holes. We have a 3D printer so are able to make a custom exhaust to combine smoke and hot air. Oh yes, we’d already planned & made our own small but very effective automatic bilge pump, just in case!!
Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks Malcolm, message understood!
Chas, Ashley, Dave & Paul,
Many thanks for your responses.
Phew! - That’s overall just about what we were hoping for so we’re clearly starting to learn, your help is much appreciated.
Dave - we’ve passed the point of choice of batteries & committed to NiMH for better or worse.
Paul, that’s very interesting & we’ll take that into account. At this early stage we can increase ventilation, thanks.
FYI - we’re really pleased to have got the authentic sounds for x3 gas turbine engines, they sound great. Plus we’ve become well informed on solving RFI interference problems. What a nightmare that was.
Thanks so much guys.
We’re building a 93cm K D Perkasa. It will have two 12v motors at 10amps (max), a 12v sound board at 1.2amp (max) and a few switchable low voltage low current items. We add it up to about 22,500 mA with everything switched on & running at max (highly unlikely). So we believe in reality it would be nearer to 11000 mA max or likely less for most of the time.
The proposal is to use two 12v 5000 SC NiMH battery packs in parallel giving 12v 10,000 mAh (from Component Shop) with their parallel power board. The total weight for motors and proposed batteries is about 2.6kg.
So, your general thoughts would be most welcome BUT in addition please - the big one - any guesses from your experience on high much running time we’ll have? Max power would only be in occasional short bursts. I realise there are calculators online but your experienced views would be far more accurate we reckon!
We understand the “length of string” bit etc and only ask for ball park guesses and promise no moans if you’re wrong!
|Thread: Power Supply|
Malcolm, thank you so much for that both interesting & educational info. I love to understand properly.
That said, clearly the only problem we have then is with this mixer, The supplied instructions are simple & you’ve helped reaffirm our theory on how this should work but it doesn’t. I guess I can give MTronics a call tomorrow but if you or anyone else have any ideas or experience with this W-Tail Mixer we’d be grateful for any advice.
Ultimately this mixer is an extra that’s certainly not critical so if need be we’ll just abandon it but that seems a bit defeatist & a waste of £16!
Has anyone the patience to read this? Feel free to laugh & criticise!
We’re moving forward but here’s the latest operational variations & we’re now stuck -
1) Motor(s) powered direct from 12v = silent & perfect running
2) Motor powered by ESC = runs ok but also whistles. Same when run together with Y connector
3) With mixer using Outputs 1 & 2 (as per leaflet) = only one motor works & also whistles
4) With mixer using Outputs 2 & 3 both motors run (whistling) but unequally
5) Steering - using Y connector from RX to mixer & servo, steering works fine in all the above examples but has no effect on motor speed
6) Remove mixer & replace with Y connector = Both motors run equally (fwd & rev) but still whistle.
NOTE - All setup instructions for ESC(s) & mixer followed. Have also discovered ESC outputs 5v to RX so only one wire disconnected & so obviously our planned separate power supply for RX is not needed, in fact Carson book says do not use separate supply. That bit was easy!
Does anyone have the patience to help??
Brian & Mathew
Both wires as the 5v mixer will be supplied from the same power source as the receiver. Yes, by “cut” I should perhaps say disconnect as you suggest plus your’ll be impressed to learn I have spare pins & plugs if I mangle it !
I appreciate your advice.
Ashley, thanks for the BEC reminder. While speaking to MTronics yesterday he also made a point of mentioning that I need to cut the red wire between each of the ESCs & the mixer.
Thank you all, this is so helpful. We want 12v for each motor so will run batteries in series.
Charles is certainly right, I asked MTronics earlier today & they were clear their Viper 40 ESCs are 12v max & no more plus their W-Tail mixer is 5v max (not mentioned in their leaflet).
We thought two 6v so we have some equal ballast each side together with the two motors. We’ll also be using the 12v for our ShockWave3 sound board.
Obviously we’ll add smaller addition batteries for the receiver & other other very small low voltage/amp extras.
Thanks again to you all, we’re learning here with your kind help.
Thanks Colin, ah ah, sounds perfect. The link brings up 12v but I’ve found the 6v version (out of stock!!) so I’ll call them. We really appreciate your help.
Hi, forgive our lack of knowledge but are we’re slowing moving up the modelling ladder!
We’re building a 93cm Torpedo Patrol Boat (K D Perkasa). We have two brushed MFA 850 motors, two MTronics Viper Marine 40 ESCs plus a MTronics W-Tail mixer. We’re committed to using Nimh batts. We’re thinking (just for the motors & ESCs) two 7.2v 5000 Nimh in series to achieve 12v but clearly we have a 2.4v excess.
So, we’re looking for advice on a recommended converter and would gratefully welcome all and other additional advice please - many thanks.
Sorted electrics - my fault. Thanks again for your help guys.
HELP - Voltage, being new to this we are now getting confused. We made it clear to a dealer that we have a Carson 14ch receiver (we have a Carson 14ch Pro TX) This evening I’ve just realised it’s max voltage is 8.4 but some say 6v! The motors the dealer recommended & sold us are are 12v. Sure they run at a lower voltage & we can reduce the battery output but that must reduce their speed. Can someone offer an easy to understand guidance for two confused beginners please? Thanks
Thanks so much for your input Colin.
We’re rapidly coming to the conclusion that NiMH (x2 6v) is the way. Ashley suggested the spec but is there any particular make you’d recommend? Not too worried by cost, most important is weight for ballast & we’d prefer to go high on the mAhr. Since my first post it seems we’re committed to the two MFA 850s.
Thanks Ashley & Ray for your thoughts, it’s much appreciated. We’ll digest all this.
This weekend we’re removing the existing deck, should be fun as we fibre glassed it on & joked back then about ever having to remove it but it has to go. Original (1967) photos etc seem few & far between. But we have some & from them we intend to 3D print several deck fittings, the first & challenging item being the torpedo racks but I think we’ve managed it!
Lead acid was a choice based on stability (it originally had one), but I think we’ll do some testing & rethinking after both your comments.
As for the propellors, I view of your comments we’ll get plastic 3 blades and test them against the 2 bladed ones. Whichever proves the best perhaps we should swap them for brass versions, any thoughts?
Certainly not a cheap hobby!! Will be taking photos as we learn and go!
Hi, first thread so please make allowances! My son & I are picking up from where we left off in 2002 on a 1/32 93cm twin motors & rudders RC K. D. Perkasa P150. It was half finished so we’re keeping the hull but completely stripping out & starting afresh. We want to use a lead acid battery. We’ve been advised on two MFA 850 motors with twin MTronics Viper Marine 40s & an MTronics W Tail Mixer.
Questions - we have plastic twin blade propellors (40mm M4) - would triple blades be best? And if so, plastic or brass?
Although high speed is not our intention we do want to reflect the top speed (54 knots) & acceleration of these boats as I’m sure many of you know!
Our prop shafts are ok but need stripping down for a good clean & grease which, is easy.
We’d be so very grateful for any advice. We want to get this right & to that end have even found an authentic gas turbine sound system!
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor