Here is a list of all the postings Yabbie1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Information only|
Yes I remember that one Ray, a smart looking boat. I confess that when I was designing models I had a reoccurring nightmare that I would make a small mistake on the plans that would cause hundreds of models built from them to sink into watery oblivion and I would not dare to visit a lake anymore in case I was identified and treated to a similar fate! Fortunately that hasn't happened (yet).
I am very pleased to hear of the success you have had building from my plans and articles, It is only by feedback like this that you learn whether people have found them comprehensible or not. May I ask, which is your favourite one and is there any chance of a photo?
Unfortunately due to charged circumstances I am not able to plan on doing more construction articles, at least not in the near future.
Yabbie1 (John Parker)
|Thread: Paul Freshney R.I.P|
My condolences to Paul's family and all who knew him on the sad occasion of his passing. I started becoming a regular contributor to Model Boats at about the time of Paul taking over the editorship from John Cundell. He always provided useful help and encouragement to me and we corresponded on modelling matters generally. He was clearly an accomplished modeller. We never met, being in different hemispheres, and sadly now never shall.
|Thread: Coast Guard Picket Boat|
Your kind words have wheedled a few more photos from my 'stable' - see my album and Merry Christmas! John.
G'day Neil, I am sure you will enjoy building and operating the USCG Picket Boat; it remains a favourite of my fleet and gets a frequent work-out, pandemic permitting. It is a straightforward build but it is worth spending a lot of time on the wheelhouse windows to get them looking right. Good luck, Yabbie1
|Thread: Commuter boat Vamoose|
Sorry if this is a little unclear. I in fact did as Colin describes, with a flat strip of thin brass wrapped around the stern tube with the free ends brought together at the top. Then to strengthen the whole thing up and improve the appearance, I slipped a short length of 10mm diameter brass tube that had been almost completely flattened over the free ends of the brass strip and soldered the whole lot up, with the free ends of the brass strip bent outwards for bolting to the hull.
I find with slim-line stern tubes it is better to brace them in this way to avoid flexing and vibration, it may not be needed with thicker 8mm stern tubes. If this is still not clear I could provide a photo or sketch.
Yabbie 1 - John Parker
Yes, my supplier is in Tullamarine, Victoria, Australia - not really handy unless you're planning a flying visit!
Although I used epoxy resin on the picket boat, my usual preference is general purpose polyester resin which is cheaper and quicker. The glass I use is cloth (not chopped strand mat), a satin weave of 85gsm which doesn't fray and drapes nicely. For the outside two layers of this should be fine. Sometimes I use a heavier first layer of about 185gsm followed by a second of the 85gsm if I want more protection e.g. for a tug. A final fill coat of resin optionally mixed with filler (e.g. micro balloons) fills any remaining weave and provides the thickness needed for sanding smooth without going through to the cloth. Speak to your suppliers, they should understand what is needed.
Something I forgot to mention about brushless motors - you don't have to solder up those fiddly suppression capacitors because they're not needed. That makes the installation less complicated in my book.
Glad to hear that you are enjoying scratch-building from my plans.
You'll like the Picket Boat, it's a favourite of mine in operation and a straightforward build.
I first used a brushless motor in a scale boat many years ago, and never looked back. It's not just about power and speed, a low KV outrunner brushless motor will turn a large prop like the Picket Boat's very effectively without a gearbox. I've traded the harsh grinding of a gearbox for the turbine-like whine of a brushless motor and I think that alone is worthwhile, but it is the gain in efficiency that is most gratifying. I don't actually know how long the PB runs for on its two 7.2v NiMHs, because after two hours of zapping around I'm ready to go home! I estimate about 75-80% power provides scale top speed - it's always good to have a little extra in hand with a model. We are not unduly worried about weight with the round-bilge hull; I've tested the PB with the weight of an extra two batteries and it makes little difference to the performance.
You shouldn't have to spend a lot of money. Here in Australia not many hobby shops cater for boat models so I am more or less forced to buy on-line, and find that a brand-name brushless motor and ESC combination can be had for much the same price (or less) than a good brushed motor/ESC option (surplus specials excepted), certainly if you include the gearbox you'll likely need. Turnigy motors are OK, perhaps paired with an Mtronics or SJ controller if you don't trust the cheap Chinese ones.
That's my case for a brushless motor- but the main thing is, have fun.
Yabbie1 (John Parker)
|Thread: Wanted Model Maker Magazine October 1952|
Larry, if you're still in need of this, I should have the issue in my archive and could scan the appropriate pages if that helps. I don't think Paul would object on this occasion (?), given the age of the magazine.
|Thread: 'Craig' skeg extension|
Peter, it looks like I used two brass rectangular tube sections 8mm x 4mm approximately soldered together horizontally to form a square (photo p.18 of article). The bottom one longer and the top side filed off to run around under the keel for fixing. Fitted with a brass collar at the end for the rudder bearing and the void filled with fibreglass. I say looks like, because I can't remember exactly and it's hard to tell with the model all filled and painted up. In model ship building, the construction of details such as these is often left to the builder, there is no 'correct way' as long as it looks and functions as intended.
|Thread: Tug boat 'Craig' rudder|
Mark the centreline of the rod on the outside of the rudder, then with the rod (rudder stock) inserted in the rudder, and the correct length protruding top and bottom drill right through (rod, tube and rudder) in two places (say 50mm apart) with a 1mm drill and insert two short lengths of 1mm brass rod. This will lock the rudder to turn with the rod but allow the pins to be driven out again should the rudder ever need to be removed. The pins can be retained with a tiny drop of epoxy on the outside if necessary, so they resemble rivet heads.
Alternatively the rudder can be glued to the rod, but then the keel extension needs to be made removable or some other arrangement made to allow removal of the rudder, which may be necessary to change the propeller if you can't withdraw the prop shaft inwards.
|Thread: required parts|
I didn't intend Tugboat Craig as a first scratch-build model, so well done for getting this far! The project does assume some previous experience.
A stern tube of about 7" (180mm) - measure the tube, not the shaft - should be fine with a normal motor installation and single universal.
[I used a shorter stern tube only because I needed a bit of extra length in the engine room for the motor I used (which was a heater fan motor from a scrapped full-size car), and to fit two universals.]
You need a high-torque, low-revving motor to drive the 63mm dia. 4-blade prop. Some types of five-pole RS545 motors are OK or perhaps an RS755 - see what your usual supplier has in this category. If you can't find a high torque one for direct drive, you can use a geared motor of about 3:1 ratio.
Since the article was written brushless motors have become a viable alternative but I fear that might be confusing you further.
Good luck with the build, my 'Craig' still enjoys regular outings.
Yabbie1 (John Parker)
|Thread: Streamlinia Models|
Okay, Tony, I'll take the rap for the tiller man in the stern. But he is a very articulate(d) fellow as Ron points out, and I'm sure he would bend over backwards to please you.
Yabbie 1 (John Parker).
Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 18/09/2016 19:33:15
|Thread: Steam Tug WATTLE|
She floats! High in the water and listing slightly, but then the ballast and some equipment is yet to be fitted. It is estimated that another six to nine months will be needed now to complete refurbishment and have her back in service.
Working by floodlight, the Wattle is lifted from the low-loader once more and manoeuvred into position.
After a journey of just 600m, under the Bolte Bridge, the Wattle nears its destination in the evening light.
Slings removed and tied down on its low-loader (48 wheels), the Wattle awaits relocation of the cranes. Note the zinc anodes on the hull.
A major milestone was achieved on the Wattle on 30th September. In an operation that lasted from early morning until after dark, she was lifted from her dry dock by two cranes onto a low-loader, transported 600m to her new temporary mooring, and re-floated for the first time in years. Here's the lift. They decided to paint her hull green.
Edited By Yabbie1 on 02/10/2015 09:25:48
The thin brass portholes are much closer in appearance and finish to the original Ian - your choice. Yabbie 1.
Ian, I suspect that porthole is for the hull, and probably not original, as some of these had been plated over/lost. I used flanged brass portholes such as Cornwall Model Boats sell, by RB Model Fittings I think. Yabbie 1.
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor